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e:f,b but have a diagram That's assuming you wanna stick with the switches you have on hand. Either way you're gonna have two switch wires running to two relays, only difference is how much space 2 vs 1 switch take up on your dash.
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Feb 10, 2019 18:09
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Spazz posted:2006 Ford Ranger 3.0L with an automatic transmission. Just to be clear, are you using "turned over" slang style meaning "the engine caught and ran", or in the correct sense of "the starter made the engine spin when i turned the key"? Because if it reliably does the latter the starting circuit isn't involved at all. Also, regardless, a bad starter will never ever make an engine die mid drive, they just don't work that way. Can't make any specific recommendations to check beyond the usual basics of fuel/air/spark, but don't go chasing problems that aren't linked to the symptoms you're having. How long has it been since the fuel filter was done? How old/worn are the spark plugs? Is your air filter clean? Are any of the intake pipes old and starting to crack and let unmeasured air in? Does your truck have a single distributor (moving parts to wear down) or individual coils on each cylinder (more reliable, but can still go bad)? It sounds like it mostly happens when it's been sitting briefly, so it could be any number of intermittent problems that only show themselves in that condition, ie some parts have cooled to ambient while others are still warm. Unfortunately that could impact just about anything under the hood.
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Feb 17, 2019 18:01
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It's just Mopar shamelessly mining their own muscle car heritage in the minds of baby boomers to sell trucks.
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Feb 26, 2019 20:45
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Big Bowie Bonanza posted:Do any of you guys use Bluetooth obd2 readers or whatever and if so what's the recommended one This is the one I use and it's good enough.
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Feb 27, 2019 22:52
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sleepy gary posted:Hey guys, I have a 1999 Buick Park Avenue (GM 3800 engine, non-supercharged, automatic transmission, front-wheel drive) with 142k miles. I'm hearing a strange sort-of growling/grinding noise coming from the front passenger side, usually around 25-35 miles per hour while accelerating. If I let off the gas or hit it harder, the noise will stop. It also comes back sometimes while lazily accelerating from say 45 to 60. I don't think it's the bearing due to how it comes and goes in specific circumstances. I don't think it is related to the steering angle. I'm not having any drive issues with it that I can tell, but if it's not my imagination, I do feel sometimes like the car is slipping, like if you have a lovely clutch in a manual transmission. That's usually at low speed under 30ish mph. That sounds an awful lot like a noise my Protege was making once. It ended up being fully hosed motor mounts, the engine was twisting too far and rattling off the firewall. You'll wanna raise the hood, put it in reverse and/or drive, hold the brake *very* firmly, and floor the gas a few times, for about a second each time. Either you or a second observer need to watch the engine and see how much it rocks under load, the top shouldn't move more than an inch or two. Check in both directions. If it's flipping around violently, replace your mounts.
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Mar 4, 2019 23:17
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it won't. The amount of heat absorbed/removed by radiation is nothing next to the temperature of the air getting sucked through the filter, if you're going hot air intake color won't help and vice versa. And even if it was, convection is way more effective at cooling, and putting on paint, aka a layer of insulation, is gonna make that worse.
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Mar 6, 2019 21:31
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07 crown Victoria, p0351 trouble code. it's listed as an ignition coil circuit error, which kind of sucks, since I replaced all eight at a shop last fall. is there any chance old, bad spark plugs could be causing this issue, or do I need to take the car back and have them re-diagnose? this coincides with a rough idle, so i am in fact having symptoms.
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Mar 8, 2019 00:54
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Those lock nuts are ordinary lug nets, just with a keyed head. They don't "lock" in the sense of getting tighter than normal ones. Missing a lug nut is fine for, like, moving the car around at parking lot speeds, but absolutely don't go on even small side roads like that.
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Mar 26, 2019 03:17
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Yeah old school blinkers are based on current draw. You'd need to do some math and figure out a resistor to run in parallel so you're drawing the same current.
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Apr 5, 2019 02:00
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Colostomy Bag posted:What the heck is this now with an adapter? I had to google it, apparently new cans come with a valve to let the gas out, like a glorified schrader valve, instead of the ol pierce-and-dump method. so of course it requires a different connector to hook it up to a gauge set, need a thing to depress the plunger.
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Apr 5, 2019 18:56
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Engines tend to come to rest in just a few spots as the compression stroke brings the assembly to a halt. That means those spots see all the engagement wear from the starter, so if a ring gear tooth is gonna chip and let the starter spin freely, that's the most likely spot. If you rotate that gear relative to the engine, you'll have fresh teeth being exposed to that wear. On that car it looks like the teeth are mounted on the converter instead of the flex plate, so instead of removing the flywheel/flex plate entirely and rotating it or replacing altogether, you can just spin the converter instead from underneath the car. Seems like a tidy little design.
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Apr 6, 2019 22:30
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Even if it's not the same cylinder, on a 4 cylinder engine you're gonna have 2 spots where the engine comes to rest, every 180 degrees when a compression stroke happens. You'll have 3 on an I3/V6/I6, 4 on a V8, etc. So an I4 is basically the worst case scenario, discounting ancient cars with 1 or 2 cylinders.
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Apr 7, 2019 21:34
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simplefish posted:If your car has more power than it needs zaepg posted:2003 Pontiac Vibe lol
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Apr 23, 2019 21:10
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As long as you make sure you properly connect your normally open/normally closed terminals to the right circuits, you should be alright.
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May 17, 2019 22:20
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So I think the intermittent misfire I've been having on my crown vic (code P0351 - "ignition primary/secondary circuit fault) is just down to a loose connector. I got out yesterday while it was consistently misfiring, a/c disabled and all, and when I jiggled the connector the compressor *immediately* kicked on; it was hard to feel vibrations under the hood but when i sat down the steering wheel had smoothed out like normal. Is there some glaring reason not to just zip tie it on and call it a day? it's the only cylinder that's done it, been happening periodically since i replaced all 8 coils back in like October.
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May 20, 2019 19:35
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Looks like the alternative insanity thread fell into archives, oh well. My mom's pressure washer with a briggs and stratton won't start. Compression feels strong and i get fuel smell from the exhaust/spark plug hole. I've gotten as far as removing the spark plug boot and checking the lead itself, and I'm not seeing or hearing any signs of a spark jumping to the block when we pull the starter. Where do I go from here? I assume this is some kind of magneto system, I've only ever worked on cars with electronic ignition so I'm pretty much out of my depth for what to do next. Pull off the starter assembly and see where the ignition wire goes? Check something somewhere else?
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Jul 5, 2019 17:16
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Father Jack posted:e: Also, is there anything in the idea that you shouldn't push start a car with a timing chain rather than a belt? Absolutely none afaik. In both cases the camshaft is being driven by the crankshaft just like in normal operation, I can't see any possible way it would matter.
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Jul 5, 2019 17:41
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If it's spinning smoothly that sounds like a compression issue. Gut call is that you over-tightened the valves and now they're not closing all the way.
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Jul 22, 2019 07:03
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Leperflesh posted:92 Chevy S10 4.3l V6 Z engine, with the valve stem seal job I mucked up by over-tightening the rocker nuts. If it sounds okay, take it out for an Italian Tuneup, repair work is messy and there tends to be stuff to burn off.
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Jul 25, 2019 01:10
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Most "gauges" are just a dummy light where if (engine not cold or overheating) {needle = centered}, they aren't analog at all. Some variation is normal, and if you're putting more load on the engine is working harder by definition, so yeah the temp will climb. As long as your cooling fans and shroud are in good condition it's perfectly fine.
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Aug 5, 2019 20:51
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My friend has a 2015 Wrangler, 3.6 auto. It shut down on her while driving the other day, no noises or anything just a clean shutoff. Jeep forums said it was the crank sensor and that was my gut as well. Shop says they can't replicate the issue (ugh) but that they checked the sensor and it's fine. Any other known points of failure on these that could cause that? My gut says "take it back and wait for the problem to get worse so they can diagnose it"but that's a hard sell, so if there's any known failure mode I'd love to hear it.
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Oct 1, 2019 20:54
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07 Crown Vic, door hinges groan pretty bad lately. Are they at all replaceable, or is that a whole-door swap kinda job? e: or maybe they just need greasing with something?
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Nov 25, 2019 16:12
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Granted I'm not used to cold weather, but that sure sounds like a really weak battery that's just barely able to turn it over. E: Starter/ignition switch are clearly fine, give it a jump from your wife's car later and see if it cranks harder.
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Dec 1, 2019 21:32
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Hiya AI, been a while. My Crown Vic was parked all through last year, and at some point in there, my center mirror fell off the windshield, base and all. There's a big ol block of adhesive still stuck to the glass. Good old Florida heat, eh? So: 1. What's the best way to get the old glue off? It feels hard, I'm assuming it's some kind of epoxy. 2. What's the best way to reattach the mirror?
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Aug 5, 2021 21:01
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Ok guess I need help saving me from my own stupidity. 07 Crown Vic PI, 165k miles. For the last year or so I've had an intermittent p0351 that was too intermittent to track down, but jiggling the harness would get it working again for a while. Well, last week I had to jiggle harder than usual... and the car shut off. And after restarting, instead of the one code, I had loving 10. p0135, p0141, p0155,p0161 - all 4 o2 sensor circuits p0351 - Ignition coil A circuit malfunction - this was what i had before p0403 - EGR circuit malfunction p0443 - Evap purge circuit malfunction p0743 - Torque converter clutch solenoid circuit electrical p0755 - shift solenoid B malfunction p0962 - trans pressure control solenoid circuit low So CLEARLY I jiggled some loving connector loose and hosed up a bunch of poo poo (I say, praying I didn't fry some ECU circuits instead). I limped the car home about a mile, engine almost stalling every time I left a stop (boy I hope that didn't smoke the trans!) and I've since unplugged and reseated all the big harness connectors under the hood, no dice so far. Is there something buried farther down, say, the trans tunnel? really wishing I'd bought a wiring manual at some point, now I'm afraid to spend the money in case I've hosed this car over entirely. I was waiting for that goddamn ignition problem to get worse so I could actually trace it, and in the course of a day it got bad enough that driving home was untenable (windows were fogging up without defrost cause the car disables a/c when it's misfiring), and then trying to fix that caused... all this. Shoulda just taken it to a loving shop instead of being an arrogant bitch.
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Feb 16, 2022 07:27
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STR posted:The stuff related to the codes you mentioned runs through two different sections of the harness going from what I dug up on CVN - I'd bet on a ground down there being knocked loose. I don't think there's a single harness that you could have knocked loose doing that short of unplugging it from the PCM. I'll have to summon up the mental energy to go out and start checking ground continuity tomorrow, I guess. *Really* hope it's something that straightforward. I actually didn't know that about em, I've been out of the deep-dive car repair knowledge game for a while, guess I'm paying for it now lmao. I know the shocks are worn out but I'm not gonna throw money at em til I can for sure get it running smooth again. Also once I fix this new issue I guess I ought to go and track down the original issue with that ignition circuit. I know in the past that coil has been replaced when the spark plug launched out and broke the coil. Since then the misfire has been SUPER intermittent but always cylinder 1, even after swapping plugs/coils to a different cylinder, so maybe that launch-out damaged the harness and it's been getting progressively worse ever since.
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Feb 19, 2022 05:39
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