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How much would I be looking at to get a part fabricated? I only ask in interest because I just paid $100 to replace a snapped alternator bracket in a 96 jeep grand Cherokee.
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Aug 14, 2015 16:45
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Anything I should do to figure out what caused this break? I've already ordered a replacement part, but I don't want it to break in me because the one I bought was the only one I could find.  Also this part is cast, is it really that hard to get a strong weld on it? I asked a friend welder and he said it probably wouldn't hold. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Aug 14, 2015 |
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Aug 14, 2015 19:43
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kastein posted:Looks like a 91-98 Jeep 4.0L and you should just junkyard the bracket, it'll cost you like ten bucks and they are everywhere. Also, you are missing the other half of the bracket (it's a stamped steel piece that goes on the front and holds down with a handful of nuts and the two bolts through the alternator) which is why you are breaking brackets and likely bolts in the future. You have bolts instead of studbolts in the two positions that go through the timing cover and block into the bracket that broke, as well, you'll need those. Only problem with this is that I'm looking at a 2 hour round trip for this. Now is the missing piece you're talking about supposed to like a front bracket. That fits here? 
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Aug 15, 2015 02:01
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How often should I replace the battery in my vehicle? I understand they wear out eventually. Essentially, I'm having some kind of electrical issue on my '96 grand cherokee. My battery seems to be holding no charge, but it could be a large parasitic drain causing problems. I could drive my vehicle for an hour and the engine won't turn over in the morning. My alternator is about a year old now, so don't think that is an issue. This only happened when it started getting cold here in Georgia. Everything was completely fine before it started dropping down to like 50 and below.
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Dec 16, 2015 12:38
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Borrowed a multi-meter from my dad this morning to figure this thing out. Only drawing 0.25 amps from the battery with the vehicle turned off. So, going off my limited knowledge of acceptable power draws for vehicles. I am assuming that is a safe amount and that the battery is just hosed.
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Dec 16, 2015 14:16
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So a USB charger I had plugged in was pulling 30mA. The Body Amp, Cluster, Body Controller is pulling 160mA. The Ignition Off Draw is pulling 60mA. How can I wire a kill switch for the fuse? Like do I just buy a switch and some wire, push the one twisted end into the either side of the slot and wire it onto the switch? SlayVus fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Dec 16, 2015 |
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Dec 16, 2015 15:37
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The previous owner did some of their own electrical work. For instance, screwing in a set of speakers in the trunk. Blissfully the screws inserted themselves through the top of the gas tank. They also mangled the wiring job for strobe lights on the inside of the cabin, which were later removed. Undid the infinity sound system to install their own speakers, labeling nothing. The vehicle has a heap of electrical problems caused by the previous owner.
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Dec 16, 2015 21:19
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Well I installed a switch in one of the panels next to the lane changer. 20a switch, 12 Guage wire, 12 Guage male terminals that I trimmed on the sides to fit into the fuse. The switch successfully disables and enables the dash panel.
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Dec 17, 2015 02:36
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SlayVus posted:Well I installed a switch in one of the panels next to the lane changer. 20a switch, 12 Guage wire, 12 Guage male terminals that I trimmed on the sides to fit into the fuse. The switch successfully disables and enables the dash panel. This appears to be working. Two days straight, vehicle starts right up. No adverse effects that I'm aware of so far. Bought just enough wire that I was able to route it out of sight.
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Dec 19, 2015 00:15
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Having some issues with my 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I took it, a couple months ago, to a mechanics to get the U joints replaced. Ever since then I've had bad vibrations in my vehicle at high speeds(60+). I just took it to another company today to ask them to look at this and they only thing they came back with is that maybe the transmission mounts are bad and need to be replaced. They said they didn't find anything wrong with the alignment or the tires or the axles. They did some test driving themselves and said that once they held it at speed for a little bit it would stop vibrating, I never held speed because I was afraid I would damage something. Is there any other possible reason why the whole vehicle would be vibrating like this? It doesn't seem to be linked to engine speed because I can cruise up to 70 and let it idle like down a hill with RPMs under 1500 and it'll still vibrate and it'll drive in a straight line. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Aug 30, 2018 |
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Aug 30, 2018 22:05
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Krakkles posted:So, this piece is pretty key. If it started when that work was done, it's either a part they used/replaced, or something they touched while doing it. Which U-joints got replaced? They can definitely cause vibrations, and I'd definitely suspect those first. If it's 4wd, and the u-joint replaced was on the front driveshaft, you can just take it out and drive without it to troubleshoot. If they're the axle u-joints, you're probably going to have to take them out to find out. Regardless, I'd be shocked if it WASN'T the u-joints - the likelyhood of something else failing just as they do that work that causes issues that those can cause is pretty low. It's a 2WD and the shop I took it to said there was some play in the driveshaft if they used a crowbar to move it.
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Sep 1, 2018 18:33
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So issues with my Jeep. My voltage is all over the place. 96' Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. While idle my voltage is way lower than normal. I do have issues with my battery, but even when I charge my battery to full the voltage is below normal. Randomly while driving, the voltage will say it spikes and it will randomly drop back down to normal levels. The alternator is a re-manufactured and was purchased maybe like 3 or 4 years ago. Also have issues with starting it sometimes where even slightly keeping my foot on the gas pedal is enough to get the engine started and keep it revving under 1k. Should I be looking at a new starter as well? It probably hasn't been replaced in the life of the vehicle.  
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Sep 21, 2019 01:54
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Deteriorata posted:Have you actually measured the voltage, or are you just going off the dash gauge? I ask because it's possible the gauge itself or a sending unit is faulty, rather than anything else in the charging system. Colostomy Bag posted:alternator shot, battery is probably done as well. STR posted:Do your lights seem significantly brighter when the voltage spikes? All in all, it seems like I have a loose connection somewhere with I guess a ground connection. I also seem to need a new alternator since it appears my alternator still isn't putting out 14v according to my voltage indicator. I did also put a multimeter across battery positive and a ground point on the vehicle which did indicate 12.5~12.7V and at 2k RPM the alternator was still outputting less than 13.5v.
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Oct 4, 2019 07:21
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Beach Bum posted:Still sounds like voltage issues, which could be grounding or alternator voltage regulator. Put a meter on it if possible, I wouldn't trust a dash gauge for diagnostic purposes. I did put a multimeter across battery positive and a ground point on the vehicle. Like I said the multimeter, before getting the new battery, was reading essentially battery voltage at idle and only 13.2-13.5V at 2k RPM with no systems running like AC, radio or headlights.
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Oct 4, 2019 17:21
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Is my understanding correct that I will need to drain my engine's oil to replace my engine oil sensor? The sensor is placed directly above my oil filter. The reason why I need to replace it is that I actually am getting an oil leak through the sensor itself.
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Nov 2, 2019 21:36
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I guess SA is messing up, didn't mean to double post.
SlayVus fucked around with this message at 22:26 on Nov 2, 2019 |
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Nov 2, 2019 21:43
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So my vehicle just died on the side of the road. I replaced the alternator and battery this October so the parts aren't even 2 months old yet. The voltage guage was showing halfway between 9 and 14 and then would just cut off. I drove it for about 60 miles before the electronics just started dying one by one in quick succession. We were able to jump start the car, but it dies in short order after taking the jumper cables off. With the jumper cables attached the voltage still showed halfway between 9 and 14. The alternator is an Omix-Ada 17225.22 120 Amp and the battery is an everstart Maxx group 65 700cca. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 14:18 on Dec 16, 2019 |
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Dec 16, 2019 12:34
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Chunjee posted:Sounds like a bad part or major resistance in the wire. The type of car would be helpful. If it is a luxury model with lots of extras that will have even more dependance on correct voltage. It's a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo inline 6 automatic. shortspecialbus posted:I would start by doing the easiest thing and having both tested. I know like an autozone or whatever can test batteries, not sure about an alternator. Otherwise double check your connections - there could be corrosion or just a poor connection somewhere. When I installed it I used silicon dielectric grease on the connections SlayVus fucked around with this message at 15:15 on Dec 16, 2019 |
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Dec 16, 2019 15:07
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Motronic posted:Rebuilds are universally junk, so it's probably a bad alternator which has now killed your battery again. As far as I am aware this isn't a rebuild. I paid over $170 for the alternator. Stock alternator is a 90A this one is 120A. It's a OE replacement direct fit, didn't say it was recertified or refurbished according to the listing. A remanufactured alternator from AutoZone or advanced would have been like $60. I didn't pay a core fee either on it. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 16:03 on Dec 16, 2019 |
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Dec 16, 2019 15:58
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I have a 2009 Ford Edge SE and is making this clunking noise on the passenger front side of the vehicle. It is some how correlated with the steering and/or suspension of the vehicle. I can turn the steering wheel hard, while going 5/10 MPH, and get this clunking noise coming from the passenger side. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_xM09jWPTQUjfYQcX8TwXCsNCBL7WtJq
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May 24, 2020 22:10
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Can an engine survive a internal coolant leak without causing it issues? My 08 Ford Edge has apparently leaked coolant into the engine from the water pump, no blown head gasket. If I get it fixed, would I have to worry about like my engine rusting or other things going bad? Or would it be better to replace the motor? It's only been going on for about 1 day and it's already in a shop. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Dec 30, 2020 |
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Dec 30, 2020 23:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think some of those Fords can leak straight from the water pump to the crankcase. Yes, it's a ford that can leak straight into the crankcase. Problem started yesterday, took it to the shop today. They're saying that even with replacing the pump there could damage inside the engine like rust or pressure damage from steam, and other things. The biggest thing is that the water pump in my engine is right on the timing system and timing chain. Which they added an extra "upwards of" $400 more if there is anything else with with the timing. Most I drove it was like an hour max with it only once hitting red line on heat. My biggest problem and fear is that they said even fixing the issue, the engine could still be shot. How likely is that? Because they quoted me double my repair quote for a used engine swap. Quoted quadrupole on a new engine swap. Nothing over $9k max, but I bought this vehicle for 6800 used with only 80000 miles. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 05:47
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STR posted:It's a gamble. Since it was only driven a day where you know of coolant getting into it, the engine may be okay, but with it being overheated... see if they'll do a compression test before they start work. That'll let you know if the head gaskets survived. They did a compression test first to determine which head gasket it was like it was between two pistons or just one piston entirely. Thats how they determined it was the water pump that leaked into the engine because none of the pistons lost any pressure. The overheat amount, I'm talking like maybe like just 2 to 4 minutes at most. Once I saw my temp gauge, I parked and let it cool down. Walked back home, had someone drive back with me to the drive, and drove it back home after it had sat for an hour. The trip back home was maybe like 2 minutes from where it was parked.
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Dec 31, 2020 20:25
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