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Michael Scott posted:What could have caused it to begin with? The fluid is rated for well beyond the miles it's at in its life, I guess 11 years is kind of long for ATF but it shouldn't kill a transmission.. ATF, just like every other fluid in your car, breaks down over time. 11 years is far longer than you should be leaving anything in your car. ATF contains all sorts of detergents, anti-oxidising agents and lubricants that will lose their ability to do their job over time. I wouldn't put a sealed bottle of ATF that was 11 years old in my car's transmission, and yours is not only that old, it's also been heated up and cooled down several hundred times, which also accelerates chemical change. So yes, it could have easily damaged your transmission. This could be one of those things where changing the fluid and the filter is all it needs for another 11 years at 2.7k/year, or you could do that, and it progressively gets worse until the transmission stops engaging altogether. There's no real way of knowing on an internet forum.
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Feb 16, 2015 05:44
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Safety Dance posted:I said auto parts store. Think Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, O'Reilly's, etc. They'll pull the code for free, then you can come back here and tell us what's really wrong with your truck. candywife posted:I don't live in Not California. I read this to mean "I do live in California, home of the brave and land of the gently caress no we can't tell you what the codes are from your car, you might try to fix it yourself".
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Feb 16, 2015 05:53
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Fucknag posted:Steal it, take it for a few laps around the nearest gravel quarry, return it saying "Congratulations, it's a real truck now. Never worry about scratching it again." I think he means like the $50k+ Mercedes Benz sedan, not a Ford truck/van thingy.
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Feb 24, 2015 08:35
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Here's a stupid question that I'm going to be putting in the Miata thread as well. Can someone tell me if this is the fuel filler flap from an MX-5/Miata? I was looking for a tap cutting tool in my toolbox, and I apparently hadn't opened the bottom section of it in a decade, because I have no memory of putting this thing in there.     
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Mar 2, 2015 00:22
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Parts Kit posted:87 Mazda B2000 I've definitely eyeballed it every time I've done one of those. Never had one come back, probably done 30+.
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Mar 15, 2015 09:13
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:No codes and still no blinking light, so I'm just going to chalk it up to being a fluke and keep an eye on it. What state do you live in? If it's not-California, you can get the codes read at a local spare parts store for free. Please at least do this, to ensure that there's no stored code that isn't showing for whatever reason. If the airbag is in any way faulty your wife is driving a significantly less-safe car. You said 2010 Murano? According to this, you have a 5 year warranty on the powertrain, which includes airbags for some reason. So you're probably still in the warranty period. I would take it to a dealership to get it checked out.
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Mar 18, 2015 00:26
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:Oh right, I posted in this thread and didn't realize it was 80+ new posts since my old one. My bad! Parts places will do it for free as long as you're not in California, where there's a law saying that you can't get it cleared by anyone unless they're licensed or something. It's supposed to stop people clearing their own codes before smog checks I think, ignoring the fact that if you clear your codes that will show up on the smog check and you won't pass it because you haven't done enough drive cycles.
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Mar 25, 2015 00:59
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Here's a non-automotive question, but still probably in the wheelhouse of some of the dudes here. We have a petrographic microscope that was at one of our sites that had been "broken" for quite some time, and I've taken a look at it this morning, and the top eyepiece no longer sits on the swivel mount properly, due to a screw being messed up from whichever ham-handed moron screwed it the locking pin way too hard. You can no longer back the screw out to remove the eyepiece section, but that's ok because the same idiot (probably) just lifted it off with all of his retard-strength and there's a nice chunk taken out of the locking ring of that now. So it falls to me to fix it, because I'm the most handy person in the office and it needs to go out at the end of the week to a new site; getting it professionally fixed would be far preferable, but would take a couple of weeks or more. It doesn't seem too hard. Click all images for enormous.  First image is where the eyepiece mounts on; the screw on the right is the stuffed one, that is normally (GENTLY) screwed in to lock the eyepiece in place.  Close up of the locking screw, where it's a combination of bent over and hosed up that means it can't be backed out to put the eyepiece back on.  2nd shot of the screw. I figure I can just dremel the end of the screw, make sure that the tip on it is smaller in every way than the smallest dimension of the thread it needs to be backed out through, back it out, and then tap and die it to make sure they're both ok. Anyone see any major issues I'm missing that might gently caress me? Memento fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Mar 29, 2015 |
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Mar 29, 2015 23:02
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Yeah, it's all screw. They stuffed it pretty good. I've just been on the phone with a supplier and he's going to courier me a new screw, so I'm no longer concerned about that, but preserving the thread in the mounting piece is pretty important. I'm glad about that because I don't have a lot of spare thread to work with.
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Mar 30, 2015 00:04
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Godholio posted:Buy that loving car.
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Apr 9, 2015 11:58
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Someone tell me more about this beautiful bastard. Saw it on the way home this afternoon and managed to snap a quick picture. Click for huge. 
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Apr 14, 2015 09:03
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KozmoNaut posted:It's a Volvo 262C. Styled by Bertone and built in Italy, unfortunately it's saddled by the shittastic PRV V6. Yep, one of those with an LS-something swap just went a very long way up my "project cars I would love to build" list. That engine sounds like a loving boat anchor. edit: they can't be that rare, actually, there's three on carsales right now. edit edit: jesus those loving seats are abhorrent 
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Apr 14, 2015 10:06
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Suave Fedora posted:You have the right idea. My truck is the basic model V6. I couldn't tell you the exact literage (gently caress you I made it up) but it has the extended cab with the little babby seat(s?) behind the driver side. Rear-wear drive. The word you're after is capacity. Also, your truck sounds awesome tbh.
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Apr 17, 2015 07:47
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VelociBacon posted:Hit that poo poo with something hard a few times and try starting it again. If it starts, replace your starter because the solenoid is probably shot. Should be a do-it-yourself repair and a remanufactured starter is pretty cheap. I've always had luck with getting someone to crank it over for me while you whack the solenoid housing with the handle of a hammer. If it starts cranking after you hit it, it just needs a new starter.
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Apr 25, 2015 04:59
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some texas redneck posted:I'm not a fan AT ALL of connecting the negative (jumper) cable to the dead battery - remember, batteries do produce hydrogen while charging, and the negative is the last to be connected (and the first to be disconnected). You're always safer connecting it to something sturdy - engine block, alternator mount, even a shock tower mount. I had a family member have a battery explode in his face while disconnecting a battery after jumping, that was enough to scare me (he kept his vision thankfully, he closed his eyes just as he disconnected the cable). Yep, I've singed my hair from a small hydrogen blowup when jumping a car about 15 years ago. I was wearing eye protection, so no lasting damage, but making a little fireball isn't a thing of legend, it actually happens to people. It was a sphincter-tightening experience.
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Apr 27, 2015 04:08
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Miles for the most part but lots of things wear even without lots of miles on them. Everything rubber, for instance. I saw a few early 2010s Falcons for sale the other day for sub-3k, all with more than 800,000 kilometres on the clock. Fuckin' ex-taxis man. Don't touch them with a 10-foot clown pole.
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Feb 29, 2016 05:32
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Usage is such an important factor, yeah. I once saw two Mazda 121 Metros within a week of each other, both with serious problems. One of them had destroyed the front discs and pads, and all of the shocks due to being spectacularly overloaded and used as an elevator maintenance vehicle. The other had a completely hosed exhaust from never being driven up to temperature. The first was 2 months old, the second was 5 years old. They had both done a little over eight thousand kilometers.
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Feb 29, 2016 07:10
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Javid posted:
Unless you're about to flip it and leave the country then yeah, in-coolant leak "fixing" is a Bad Thing. The stuff is supposed to harden on contact with air to stop leaks. It also usually hardens in narrow passages that get hotter, blocking off vital flow to hotspots that essentially guarantee your engine will eat its own guts.
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Mar 1, 2016 07:33
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13B. Comedy answer: 20B. Wish list answer: 26B.
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Mar 10, 2016 07:51
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Yeah I was going to jam on the pedal with it plugged up to see if it's a problem with the master cylinder. By brake hoses do you mean all the lines or just the flexible bits? I replaced the flexible sections with new stuff months ago because the old stuff was tearing at the outermost layer. The flexible brake hoses are what wears out, they get soft and expand under pressure, making the brakes spongy. The solid lines are either fine, or leak, so if you're not noticing a leak then don't worry about them. Brake fluid should be flushed every 2 years or like 25k miles for Fords from that era. If this is the first time it's been done, it's possible that being a 15 year old car, crud that has built up in the master cylinder has scored the bore during flushing. The remedy for that is a new master cylinder, or a remanufactured one from a reputable company. I'm not American so I can't advise on that. Another thing to check is that there isn't a tiny leak past any of the caliper or drum piston seals. Peel back the dust boots and see if they're leaking in there, as it isn't always evident on the outside.
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Apr 8, 2016 07:10
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Slavvy posted:Ok so it makes perfect sense at that price; here the veloster is priced squarely against WRX and the like so hardly any sell and they're considered a massive ripoff for the performance you get. But under 20k that is a hell of a lot of car! Yeah dude the turbo Veloster manual is like 30k + onroads, and the WRX is eight to ten grand more expensive. I mean, I'm pretty sure you're in Australia, right?
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Apr 17, 2016 03:32
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I did something similar BUT I had the foresight to triple wrap it in taped-up garbage bags first. Still leaked out the bottle, didn't get out of the bags, got some funny looks at the depot, didn't care. Wrap yo' poo poo up, son.
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Apr 20, 2016 04:58
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Nostalgic Cashew posted:My wife has a 1998 Honda Civic with sunroof. There is a leak leading to the front floorboard, mostly on the driver’s side. There is also occasional water in the trunk. To date, we’ve been dealing with it piecemeal, through dry-packs and towels as needed. Through some googling, I’m pretty sure the problem is the disintegration of the draintubes for the sunroof, such that water from sunroof depression doesn’t make it to the drains, and leaks into the car. Many years ago a friend of mine drove a TA22 Celica with a sunroof. He caulked it up every autumn and peeled the sealant off every spring. The entire roof, mind you, not just the drainage. A steady hand and Selleys All-Clear meant you could never tell. He disconnected the relay for it at the same time to avoid time consuming mistakes.
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Apr 27, 2016 06:16
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Geirskogul posted:I think? My Enfield had asbestos pads, though. Isn't the most recent Enfield still nearly 50 years old?
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Apr 28, 2016 03:24
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MrOnBicycle posted:How likely is it that the AC will need refilling due to that the car has been standing for ~4 years without use, and not because there is an actual leak? First question: reasonably likely. If the AC isn't used regularly, the oil doesn't get pushed around the system and the seals can perish and let the magic gas out. Second question could easily be down to driver behaviour. I drove a Mazda 323 Turbo (very similar to this but with a TD04 turbo running 16psi) for eight years without losing a single CV joint. I sold it to a friend's little brother and I replaced three for him in the space of a year. Anyone who drives a powerful front wheel drive car and likes to floor it with the steering wheel cranked to full lock will break them on the regular. Memento fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Apr 29, 2016 |
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Apr 29, 2016 09:12
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Eskaton posted:My dad has a '69 Olds 442 that's been sitting in the garage for ~18 years. What's all gonna have to be done to get it in running shape? What ever you end up doing with it, make sure you get a Bocephus sticker for it and light 'em up just for fun.
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May 6, 2016 10:30
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It doesn't, you can take it off and drive around no problem. The alternator/power steering belt is the important one. The belts should look like this with all of the poo poo in front of them taken off  The one on the right doesn't matter, the one on the left is important.
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May 6, 2016 13:31
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MG3 posted:I've mis-shifted to a lower gear than I needed before and definitely have noticed a huge difference in what happened. I just figured it was bad for the engine and tried not to do it again. I didn't know that it was actually something you can do to save your breaks and also not hurt your engine. It can be bad for your engine, if done to an extreme. The term for, say, grabbing second gear when you meant to grab fourth coming out of fifth or with the throttle flat in third is "money shift", as in, "I shifted gears wrong and now it's going to cost me a lot of money". Like this guy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JTBcWR6hhNQ Or this guy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjHMkkkLQaU I daresay the first one was more expensive than the second.
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May 16, 2016 23:57
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Australia has the same thing. I think we're going the way of the US though with fewer and fewer new manual trans cars sold each year
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May 17, 2016 10:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:
I know a service writer at a Jeep dealership in Tasmania and he says for the majority of their customers, they're replacing front pads every 10,000km, and rotors every 20k.
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May 21, 2016 11:03
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Xequecal posted:I need some advice on what to do in this situation. In my neighborhood there was a car parked in the street that I hit at a very low speed while backing out. I had hit the breaks at the last second and wasn't 100% sure if I had actually made contact. It was at night and pitch black so I could not look for damage, so I essentially drove around the corner to a gas stationwhere it was well lit to check for marks. I eventually found a very small smudge and scratch on the bumper, so I went back intending to leave a note. It was only like 15 mins later, but the car was gone. I don't recognize it as belonging to anyone in the neighborhood. Mate, you've got the best of intentions but you've probably already done as much as you can. If you remember the make/model (I assume you didn't see the plate) and you see it again and it has damage on the side, leave a note. They probably didn't notice it if it left damage that small on your ride.
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May 25, 2016 13:03
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Bovril Delight posted:I've returned rentals caked in mud up to and including the door glass, you'll be fine. Yeah it's like hiring a tuxedo. The cost includes dry cleaning it, so spilling beer down the front of it is actually immaterial to the treatment of the garment.
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Jun 8, 2016 01:13
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smoobles posted:What if I really, really hate this car. For reasons. Sounds like you'd really be out of your Element. Sorry. No but seriously, if you're willing to spend money on getting into and getting out of a CarMax vehicle then no one can tell you not to, but it's not the cheapest option. When you say your Element is on its last legs, that can mean a lot of things to a lot of different people. What's wrong with it? I've heard the brakes and autos on those things aren't great, but if it drives and you can get it to grind out for a little while longer without killing/stranding you, then keeping it until you can push it into a ditch when your Tesla dream is realised will be the cheapest option.
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Jun 10, 2016 05:35
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Yeah just rattlecan it all matte black and call it a day. From what you've said about it that seems like a decent deal.
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Jul 15, 2016 10:09
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88h88 posted:I was getting ready to get violent if this wasn't Martini. Yeah Porsche is to Martini as the GT40 is to Gulf. You gotta stick with the classics.
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Aug 8, 2016 12:45
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Nerobro posted:
How on earth did you reach that conclusion? The air will stay cool for a while even without having any refrigerant pumped through the system, which is why it still feels like the air con is on to Vinny. Don't you think that's a vastly more likely scenario in a 2012 car?
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Aug 17, 2016 14:59
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Godholio posted:Because iridium is roughly 10x rarer than platinum Yep Godholio posted:most of what we can get from the planet's crust came from asteroids. Nahh. It's mostly a by product of mining orthomagmatic nickel deposits which are mantle-derived. Iridium doesn't have any known mechanism of hydrothermal mobility, so impact-related Ir in the crust (most of which has only been around for 65 million years) has no real way of concentrating enough to form deposits. [ASK] me about the things I wrote my Master's dissertation on.
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Aug 22, 2016 01:34
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Fashion accessory. Lots of them aren't actually snorkels, just an alternate air intake that isn't water tight. If it has a forward facing intake, especially on a Land Cruiser, it's to look pretty and nothing more.
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Aug 28, 2016 09:50
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scuz posted:Is there any reason why a guy wouldn't be able to remove the pistons from a 2002 VW 2.0L motor by popping the head, removing the oil pan, removing the bearing caps, and shoving the pistons through the top? Put some rubber hoses over the piston studs (if they have those, can't remember) so you don't scratch up the crank bearing journals.
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Sep 6, 2016 14:55
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Elmnt80 posted:Porcelin off of a spark plug will spider web it pretty good. An experienced tech will probably know what you did. There's absolutely zero "probably" involved Check your insurance policy! I get a free windscreen every year because my insurance companies thinks that making sure the driver can properly see out the front of the car actually reduces accidents.
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Sep 10, 2016 15:18
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