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If I want to do something like an oil change or fluid flush at home, how are you supposed to dispose of the old fluids?
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Nov 11, 2015 22:28
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Can a bad engine mount cause cylinder misfires? I noticed my engine was vibrating pretty badly at idle and under drive, but when the check engine light came on after driving a bit, I got misfire codes. I was thinking that the excess vibration would cause the misfire codes to trip but it's just as likely misfires are also causing the vibration. Thoughts?
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Jul 15, 2018 05:35
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GWBBQ posted:It's not the engine mount. Swap the coil pack for any cylinder that misfires with one that doesn't, one at a time, and see if the misfire follows the coil pack. STR posted:The misfires are causing the vibration (and also destroying your oxygen sensor(s) + catalytic converter(s)). Bad motor mounts will not cause misfire codes; the ECU isn't looking for vibration. Depending how fancypants it is, it's basing it on seeing excess fuel when one particular cylinder should have fired, or sensing that a spark plug hasn't fired, or maybe some kind of voodoo. Thanks, I guess I'll have to do this. Car is a 2006 Volvo XC70. Looks like I have the tools in hand, as long as I label the coil packs with their original positions I should be able to determine the issue. Also, I was looking at a Youtube video for this and the tech was just unplugging the coil cables until he found the one that wasn't making noise. Would that be a quick way to determine the faulty coil or does that pose any greater risk to the engine?
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Jul 15, 2018 13:27
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So I spilled some water in my car and now it has a mildew scent. I'm thinking of using an ozone machine to clear out the scent–does anyone know if there are places that have these machines for rent? Home Depot/Lowes don't seem to offer them
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Oct 18, 2018 18:47
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Krakkles posted:I don't know on the ozone machine, but have a couple suggestions: Awesome, I'll go about this, since everything seems readily available. Invalido posted:If you can't rent, can wait for shipping and don't mind the danger (use an extension cord or something to turn on and off, don't touch the exposed electrical connections when plugged in, don't breathe the ozone) you can get your very own "ceramic plate ozone generator" from aliexpress for like $20:
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Oct 19, 2018 03:21
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So I'm trying to re-glue some broken-off tabs on the bumper cover of a 2006 Volvo XC70 after I low-speed hit a a snowbank while parking. I'm planning on using superglue to align the pieces (since it dries very fast) and then using epoxy to make the actual reinforcing bond. Am I missing anything/would this work, and is there a recommended epoxy for this application? For example should I go for epoxy putty, JBWeld, quick-set, or and standard 2-part? Thanks!
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Jan 27, 2019 20:28
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Invalido posted:I've had lots of bad luck with using both CA glue and normal 2-part epoxies on thermoplastics. Sometimes it bonds well, often it doesn't bond at all and then it's impossible to make a strong repair. Googling the problem indicates there's a J-B weld product called "plastic bonder" that might work better than the cheap stuff I normally have laying around. If it does bond (you can test a glob somewhere and see if it sticks), you should rough up the mating surfaces with sand paper or something and clean (acetone is good) before gluing. Consider reinforcing the repair with some fiberglass. Even tiny pieces work much better than no reinforcement at all. Doesn't need to be fancy to help make it strong, dry wall strip or something you have laying around will be much better than nothing. Thanks, the JBWeld plastic bonder did exactly the trick! I used superglue to actually hold the pieces in place, but once they could hold on their own I used the plastic bonder epoxy to strengthen it structurally. It has a decent set time of 15 minutes, but a listed cure time of 30 min. In actuality, the epoxy at 30 minutes was still a thick goo. Overnight (10 hours) made me confident in its hold. I'll see how the pieces hold up since the bumper cover will have some constant light stress on the reinforced pieces, but it seems solid for now.
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Jan 29, 2019 01:46
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Has anyone here ever shipped a car? I'm trying to figure out the logistics of getting a car shipped across the country (NY to CA). Would appreciate any leads!
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Aug 14, 2019 01:36
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Are there any good cheap home repair car ramps, or should I just use 2x4s to build one myself? Reviews on Amazon for the plastic ones are all over the place 
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Aug 25, 2019 23:58
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My suspension gets pretty loud when rolling over small bumps (speed bumps, pot holes, a gravel patch, etc.). Just deep and low noises. From what I'm reading it could be anything from sway bars and control arms, to strut/coil springs. Is there a flow chart or something that allows me to determine exactly which parts are bad? Would it mostly be by visual inspection?
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Jun 29, 2020 19:43
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If my car gets totaled, and I buy it back from the insurer, can I drive it at all or must it be towed? I assume I won't have any proof of insurance so it'll be hard to get repair quotes? The car is entirely drivable but has bumper, hood, and radiator support damage from a low speed impact. No check engine light or leaking fluids, alignment tracks straight etc.
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Jan 15, 2021 05:00
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PainterofCrap posted:Mechanically: that's up to you. Your insurer will still let you carry liability insurance on it. Them totalling it is about the cost to repair vs. its value as a whole. Figured collision coverage would be tougher! Although I've read that an adjuster/appraiser can inspect and make the care insurable again? Thanks, either way this makes sense as liability should apply to me as a driver and less so on what I'm driving. MA seems to have an interesting regulation where cars > 10 years old at time of loss (which applies here) don't get salvage titles when totaled–see here: https://www.mass.gov/service-details/total-loss-and-salvage-vehicles So I think if I buy the car off them I can retain the clean title
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Jan 15, 2021 08:53
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| # ¿ May 3, 2024 00:50 |
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I was in a fairly minor front-end collision that mainly damaged my car's bumper cover, radiator mount, and hood. I want to get this fixed asap but not in a way that screws me over given the car's age (2006 Volvo XC70), and as such I want to have a shop fix the radiator support mount and hood while leaving myself with the bumper cover work (I've previously removed and repaired the bumper cover before when I hit a snowbank) I have an estimate for the total repair job from insurance's collision shop, but with the car's age obviously it's totaled and I'm going the salvage/repair route. They've also sourced a lot of OEM parts that I could find aftermarket for much less (ie. aftermarket headlamp L+R set for $360 on Amazon vs theirs $315 each for OEM, or a radiator support mount for $90 vs dealer at $723). I also don't care about paint-matching the hood hinges or scrapyard hood (for now at least) My questions are: - what should I expect for as a labor estimate for the radiator support? Should I have them source one (used or aftermarket) or can I bring my own aftermarket one? If the former, any ways to make sure they charge me for a scrapyard/aftermarket one and not a dealership one? - is it common for/would the shop be okay with a partial repair of the car up until the bumper cover (ie I do the grille, fog lights, cover mounting) or would they take that unkindly? - what kind of shop (body shop or auto repair) should I take the repair to? this job largely seems like a parts swap of the damaged pieces hood, radiator mount/supports, condenser (maybe)
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Jan 18, 2021 00:34
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