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pseudorandom posted:While the battery might be low, I know the battery itself good and the terminals are clean, as it (and the alternator) were just replaced recently. Do not confused a recently replaced alternator with a working one. Most rebuilds are poo poo. Check voltage. Start the vehicle. Check voltage again. Make sure that alternator is still working.
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May 7, 2020 02:19
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I'd still appreciate any other thoughts in case they came back.
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taqueso posted:When off-roaders do the thing where you inflate a tire that is off the bead by igniting starting fluid, is it reliable? I realized I've never seen a fail. The only way for it to fail is to use way too much and destroy the tire. You would have to use A LOT, but I'm sure some dumb rear end has done it. Otherwise it works fine.
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May 9, 2020 17:20
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It's leftover crusty battery acid. Clean it off (carefully, it's acid) and pop the tops off of that thing. Is it sill full? It might have been overcharged and boiled off some. DO NOT top it up with tap water if it's low. Needs to be distilled. Ninja edit: it's dead - who cares. Bring it back. I missed that part.
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May 14, 2020 04:40
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Minto Took posted:Brake fluid leaking from the banjo bolt. Conventional wisdom says leaking brake fluid is the caliper, but could it be the brake hose in this case? Sure. Does that clear things up? Oh, that only applies to blue cars.
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May 26, 2020 19:53
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Or the banjo bolt isn't tightened. Or the o ring on it is bad. Like with anything else, clean it all and make it leak again to see where it's coming from.
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May 26, 2020 20:04
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Definitely qualifies as stupid question, so it goes here. If there's an engine that someone says needs head gaskets, is there any way to verify that the head gaskets didn't ruin the block itself without tearing down the engine and getting out one of those fancy gauges that checks for warping? I guess you could do a compression test to see how bad the head gaskets are and if it's just marginal rather than "lol, what head gasket?" you would be safe? In this context the engine is already pulled. I think you are overestimating the amount of labor it takes to remove the heads on an engine that's already pulled. There is no need to come up with another way to do this because it's just not all that much work to pull the heads, spend some time scraping the remainder of the gasket off and throwing a straightedge on the deck and the heads to see what you've got. Also, bad head gaskets don't ruin a block. Overheating does. It feels like you have a specific thing you're asking about but not giving all the details.
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Jun 7, 2020 21:24
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I mean, you can pressure test the cooling passages as well (once the head is off, if you have blocker plates, etc) but that's basically not worth it for an already out of the car $600 long block. Unless you already had all that poo poo, which is worth a lot more than $600 and engine specific it's gonna cost that much or more to get it checked out by someone who does. You get a story, you take a look at the oil, you can check crank runout and the general condition and then you take a chance. Hell, I've had aluminum heads that I thought were fine until they were already at the machine shop getting decked and the first few passes showed cracks. No matter what I did before that to inspect turned up anything. It's always going to be a gamble. And with an entire longblock? Just count on a full rebuild and all the machine work for everything unless you are getting a working pull. This isn't something you do with a $600 + head gaskets budget unless you are willing to take the chance that it amounts to $20 in scrap. Motronic fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Jun 7, 2020 |
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Jun 7, 2020 23:57
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If it's scarce and valuable why is one with a seemingly simple (and totally common suby problem) being sold for $600?
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Jun 8, 2020 00:10
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A P0420 so quickly after that is overwhelmingly likely to be an exhaust leak or other repair-related issue. Bring it back. Don't accept it again until and unless they can get all of the I/M s set first so you don't end up with the same or similar problem again.
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Jun 13, 2020 15:19
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pokie posted:My old car cover is falling apart and I need a new one, preferably something that can last a while. I live in CA, so mostly looking for dust/rain protection - snow is not a worry. My car is a 2013 Dodge Challenger R/T with a V8 and a stick shift - a very important consideration I bought the carcovers.com "ultimate shield" version for one of my sleeping land rovers and have been very happy with it. It's been on about a year and has held up through a northeast winter, which is a lot more than you need to deal with.
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Jun 18, 2020 18:28
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Results of a battery test aren't going to tell us if your alternator is working. I'd suggest you go elsewhere, like any chain parts store, to ask them to test it for free and see what they have to say.
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Jun 21, 2020 02:04
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Kin posted:I've got a bit of a weird one with the keyless entry on my 2019 Ford Focus Titanium. As Painterofcrap said.......warranty. This is not your problem to solve. It's like the people in the home threads asking about fixing mechanicals in their rented apartment. This can only hurt you if it goes wrong. You paid for a thing (warranty on the car, maintenance for a rental) so use it.
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Jun 29, 2020 01:22
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Seat heaters are (supposed to be) sealed and waterproof. Standard upholstery cleaners shouldn't have any effect. But if they're that nasty - have you considered seeing what it would take to strip the cloth off so you can really wash it? In a lot of cars it's only held together with hog rings - you can get a box of them and a pair of pliers to crimp new ones for like $20. You'll probably need to pull the seats and potentially unbolt the backs, but it's often just slip off after that. If all that is too much/not feasible - the granular carpet cleaners that are just kinda moist and come with a scrub brush actually work really well.
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Jun 30, 2020 17:58
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Head Bee Guy posted:Thanks for the suggestion! It definitely seemed to ride better on the ride home from the dealership. The print out they gave me said the front right wheel toe was -.32 minutes when i brought it in, and the acceptable range is between -.08 and .08. How actually bad was that? Tire-destroyingly out. I bet that was terrifying on wet roads.
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Jun 30, 2020 22:40
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spankmeister posted:In Europe this would fail inspection FYI, dunno about the regulatory patchwork in the US so YMMV. This would fail inspection in at least Pennsylvania and New Jersey, but of course Alaska, Arkansas, Iowa, Minnesota, Montana, South Carolina, and South Dakota dont have any vehicle inspections at all...........
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Jul 1, 2020 21:59
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Democratic Pirate posted:I was driving home and the Check Charging System light on my 2012 Acura TL came on. Should I mess around with a DIY repair (only prior stuff I’ve done was replace a battery), or just take it in to the shop? Bring it to a parts store. They can check both the battery and charging system. Chances are good you need both a battery and an alternator because those two things have a suicide pact. You may have caught it soon enough to only need one of those, and I'm hoping it's a battery.
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Jul 4, 2020 00:56
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Colostomy Bag posted:Driveline shudder? U joints maybe shot? Just tossing out ideas. If it's lifted I'll take "pinion angle" for $1000 Alex.
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Jul 4, 2020 19:56
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vulturesrow posted:Yeah a little while back at an auto parts store and honestly the guy seemed like he really had no clue. All he said was "it's low on charge" which was a no-brainer since that's why I brought it there. What can I check in the battery with the multimeter other than voltage and draw? So there are "quick battery testers" that will definitely tell you if a battery is low on charge or very much bad. That's likely what was used. Then there are REAL battery testers that all of them have and never want to use. They have them because that's the only way you can warranty exchange a battery. They are "carbon pile". They basically charge the battery to full and then run an ACTUAL load test on it. This is the real deal test, and take an hour or more. If you have an other vehicle and can pull your battery and drop it off I'm sure somebody will run it for you.
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Jul 4, 2020 21:51
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Cannon_Fodder posted:In short, how do I fix this? Through your insurance company. Seriously.
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Jul 6, 2020 02:51
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ishikabibble posted:It's not like any power brake booster I can find photos of so I assume it's some kind of conversion kit, but not something specifically meant for this vehicle. I've dealth with those before when i used to do some work for a dude that restored GPWs and poo poo. https://www.kaiserwillys.com/brake-booster-kit-with-vacuum-tank-fits-41-66-jeep-willys Buy one of these and replace the lot of that old style aftermarket kit. Or whichever one of that style fits yours. You're not gonna find parts for that one. And if you do, the next part you can't find will break the next time you drive it.
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Jul 6, 2020 02:56
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ishikabibble posted:That's actually what I was looking at. For sure tossing what's on there currently. Do you know how reliable/how well that works? Long term? No. But it's what the crazy expensive restoration guy used begrudgingly if any only if it was an old dude who literally wouldn't be able to safely drive it otherwise. All of his work was top notch, so I don't think he would have cheaped out there, even for something that "ruined" the authenticity. The one I drove with one of these in them really worked well. It almost felt like you could stop the thing.
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Jul 6, 2020 14:48
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No pick n pull wants you leaving glass on the ground and inside a car they're trying to sell parts off of.
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Jul 7, 2020 15:23
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Immolat1on posted:Crossposting from the Subaru thread in case this is an issue other people have seen. It's in limp mode due to a running or emissions issue. You should read the ODB2 codes to figure out what direction you need to go in diagnostically.
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Jul 12, 2020 19:58
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TheBacon posted:So dumb question. I had the harbor stands that got recalled, and got them replaced with the new recall ones https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074R12H5H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is a pair, even though the description makes you kinda think it's one stand. Double locking. There is a manual pin you can put in once it's set so you're grabbing another tooth beside the one the regular cam is on.
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Jul 14, 2020 21:13
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so what is a decent set of jack stands that is actually not going to kill me? I don't really know what the hell is the like not snapon 
but not garbage tier. I don't know why I thought jack stands would be hard to gently caress up, but the hindsight of them being pretty important things is apparent now!
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TheBacon posted:Cool thanks. The fact that all stands look almost the same design as the HF ones is what makes me skeptical about if they are just rebranding from the same base factory or some such. I've got 2 pairs of those as well as the 6 tons. The weld could be nicer looking, but they seem well enough constructed. A whole lot better constructed than the HF ones as far as the base goes, and the base wasn't even the problem in that recall.
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Jul 14, 2020 21:39
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TheBacon posted:Unless I misunderstood, the second recall was for the weld on the base splitting? Oh you know you're right. I forgot about the recalled recall replacements reason. Either way, these are much better looking.
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Jul 14, 2020 22:19
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Just reading that gave me the "sick to my stomach" feeling. Your torque wrench must be right if it's clicking on the other properly torqued bolts. I hate to even suggest this......but a bad torque to yield bold that is yielding too much?
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Jul 15, 2020 19:33
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tuna posted:I'm rebuilding an old GM Dana 60 front axle and I noticed the brake caliper has a small 1/2" tear in the piston boot. Is this going to be a huge issue? This is not going to be a helpful reply, but my observation is that in the last 20 years or so buying "parts for parts" to do rebuilds is somewhere between impossible and more expensive than a reman. It's really depressing. I was going to rebuild a starter a few years ago and couldn't find the parts. My very nice local starter and alternator rebuild shop (I know how luck I am to have one of those) we willing to sell them to me - they have to buy them in quantity they said....there are no individuals which is why they will turn down certain rebuilds of weird stuff. They don't want to buy a couple boxes of 20 or 50 of some part they will likely never use again.
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Jul 17, 2020 03:00
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Mr. Apollo posted:Yeah of course, in those situations I would too. I'm talking about people saying they tip the SA and mechanic $100 each when they bring the car in for something like a scheduled oil change. lol. Just lol. This is not normal.
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Jul 17, 2020 04:58
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kastein posted:You already try aspwholesale.com? They are my go to for all that stuff. No brake caliper rebuild parts though. You told me about that (a year or two) ago and I've yet to need to rebuild something since. It's bookmarked and thank you.
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Jul 18, 2020 13:41
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AFewBricksShy posted:5 years old, Philadelphia. So 4 true seasons and it’s hot as balls today. 5 years is about all you can expect. Swap it now before it takes out the alternator (and test that the alternator is still in fact working after swapping).
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Jul 19, 2020 14:43
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AFewBricksShy posted:I have a 99 ranger that needs rear brakes and I'm planning on swapping out the drum brakes with disc brakes. I'm not doing any heavy hauling with it, just trips to the depot pretty much. Can you explain your reason for wanting to do this? That will tell us whether it's worth it or not. If the answer is "drum brakes are a pain to change" that's not a good one.
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Jul 24, 2020 16:34
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AFewBricksShy posted:In all honesty its "I want to learn how to replace drum brakes with disc brakes because hopefully in 5-10 years I'll be doing it on a much cooler car". If it's worth $500+ in parts and having a oddball truck where it might be a pain to find pads and rotors (depending on the kit you choose) there's certainly no harm in it. It's a good a reason as any. You'll probably want to splash out on a pressure bleeder (like a Motive) to do this job.
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Jul 24, 2020 17:07
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obi_ant posted:Any suggestions on a class 3 trailer hitch? I’m looking for something that won’t take too much of my clearance and is relatively cheap. I don’t plan on towing much, but would like the option to do so. I would like the opening to be 2”. What color car will you be putting it on?
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Jul 25, 2020 02:53
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obi_ant posted:White, but the bottom bumper is black. Surely you understand the question. First of all, class 3 hitched are 2". Secondly if you want a recommendation you need to say what make/model/year it's going on. Hitches aren't all the same. Sometimes it's "get a <usual suspects>" and sometimes it's a "hey, thee was a factory option for that and you can get it at a salvage yard/on ebay for almost nothing and it bolts right on up". Help us help you.
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Jul 25, 2020 03:14
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I'm going to guess broken belt in one or both front tires. You need tires and an alignment at a minimum. Get the thing off the ground and try moving the front wheels with your hands and 12 o'clock and 6, then at 9 and 3 and report back. 12 and 6 clunk will be bearings or similar, 9 and 3 are gonna be steering linkage parts. The parts out to be cheap, so like....this is achievable. But figure out what to replace first because it's all gonna f up the alignment. So if you can do all of that before the obvious tires and alignment you win.
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Jul 25, 2020 23:10
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cursedshitbox posted:yup. You don't even need the brakes for the rear of a ranger to step out on you. I remember the first day I had mine and I ran over some train tracks that I used to cross all time in other things, including full sized pickups. It was much more exciting than it should have been.
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Jul 26, 2020 15:41
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Charles posted:Really a big magnet on a flexible stick has been super useful in my life. Don't want to encourage you to spend money when you're trying to save but 🤷🏻♂️ I'm sure STR has a brokeback hard drive sitting around somewhere. Crack that thing open, take one of the magnet out and tie a string around it.
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Jul 29, 2020 19:11
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Good job showing that gently caress who's boss STR. Also, long needle nose pliers are amazingly good "gently caress, what do I do now?" tools.
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Jul 30, 2020 04:04
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ExecuDork posted:We are going to tell the junkyard what the various newer parts are and hope they give us a bit more. They won't. ExecuDork posted:Long boring story aside, we haven't found anybody we're willing to really trust, yet. How that translates into "trust the dealership" is a mystery to me. ExecuDork posted:Hmmm... this is leading to an awkward conversation with my wife......... Yeah, there's an undertone of poo poo I'm not gonna touch in this subforum.
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Aug 4, 2020 01:51
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