AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Parts Kit posted:

Yeah I remember having seen plenty of posts about cheapie grease guns being infuriating. I think I will give it a shot just for the experience, but I'm still not sure exactly what grease I should be using for this.

Also will the zerk need any kind of cover once everything is finished?

I have a HF grease gun and it's never failed to work.

# ¿ Feb 11, 2015 16:04

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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 09:31

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

kastein posted:

Go take it to a shop like I said to in the first place. There is a reason I said that. I do not have it mixed up, I'd put money on it. In fact I noted that you're comparing the back of the mirror to the door, which you said right after saying I was comparing the wrong things. I mean, I've only changed mirrors out on something like a dozen different kinds of cars now, and never took more than 15 minutes to do any of them.

Also, what Slavvy said...

I don't give a poo poo that it's "missing" one of the holes. It literally doesn't matter. So is the factory one, I bet, if you would spend the time to pull it off. You are comparing two parts that don't need to be compared, because you don't understand what's going on and the reason there are two holes in the part is because that part of it is close enough to the door mounting footprint that the plastic clips for the interior panel would interfere, while the top hole misses the mirror assembly entirely because it steps back above it. If you spent another 2 minutes to unbolt the mirror and compare and/or just bolt the new one on and move on with life, you would notice this, instead of wasting our time with another incredibly dull question that shows you don't know what you are doing at all.

I'm sorry dude but I am completely out of patience. I've answered a LOT of your questions in this thread and the previous one. You worry about poo poo like keeping your axle nuts covered, like it matters (hint: it doesn't), and it takes you an hour (even after being told how to do it) to fail to remove a plastic trim piece that it takes most people 30 seconds to pop out. I get that you want to do this, but it might be time to admit to yourself that you have no idea what you are doing and should stick to things you are good at, or just take extra time and pull it apart and spend some time thinking about how the things fit together and why something was designed that way before asking questions. For example, I have absolutely no aptitude for singing or gymnastics, which is why I'm not insistently annoying the good people in the threads on those subjects with pointless questions no one else needs to ask.

Rant over.

Just to drive my point home, I found an original factory OEM part on ebay. Look at the first and third shots in this picture. Note that it is exactly as I said, and exactly like the part you are not putting on because you didn't bother to pull the old one off and compare before asking yet another useless question, then telling me I'm wrong about this. After all, I have no idea what I am talking about and have never done this before.

(click for big)

If you can't answer stupid questions without getting mad, then don't.

# ¿ Feb 20, 2015 14:46

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

I'm not saying you're wrong, i'm just saying you should cut your losses much earlier. It's not doing much for your blood pressure to help people who won't take good advice :P

# ¿ Feb 20, 2015 21:15

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Leroy Diplowski posted:

I'm about to go look at a Suzuki sidekick. Auto 4wd. It's one of the few cars that I've never heard much about. I've done a little googling, but I was curious if Anyone here has strong feelings about them one way or the other.

Cheap, fairly rugged, quick to rust.

# ¿ Feb 22, 2015 16:53

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

What about seal healing silicone tape?

# ¿ Feb 27, 2015 21:28

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Leperflesh posted:

The best way to seal rubber is with this amazing product called rubber cement. It's been around forever but it really is precisely the right thing for gluing rubber.

Silicone is a flexible sealant but does not adhere well to rubber, especially oily rubber.
Ordinary superglue (Cyanoacrylate) is brittle and thus completely inappropriate for most automotive repairs. Gorilla Glue makes a CA with additives to give it a little flex, which you might give a try, but really why bother when rubber cement exists and is so much cheaper?

Silicone repair tape doesn''t, and isn't designed to adhere to ANYTHING but itself.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2015 23:20

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Ripoff posted:

Anyone have experience with truck rentals from Penske versus, say U-Haul? The reason I ask is because I have a 670-odd mile move coming up, and I was originally looking to rent from Penske, as I get a 15% discount from them for their truck rental. For a 26' truck this looks to be about $1,600.

The thing is, U-Haul offers a 26' truck for roughly $1,300. This is a huge discount, but I'm concerned right now because I have rented some clapped out as hell U-Hauls that were literally falling apart as I drove them (granted, these were the 13' models). The U-Haul also has a gasser compared to the diesel Penske - I'm guessing the U-Haul probably uses some 6+ liter V8 which they claim gets 10mpg. I'm inclined to believe it'll be a tired, somewhat undersized engine that won't get anything close to that based on my previous experiences with U-Haul. Also, the only other advantage Penske offers over U-Haul is unlimited mileage, but U-Haul gives you 786 miles, which should be plenty.

Anyone rented a 26' U-Haul before? Is it worth $300 more to get a diesel truck to move a bunch of household goods, or would the gasser U-Haul do alright? Anyone have any other rental suggestions (buying and reselling a truck is out, as I am coming from overseas and won't have the ability to buy and register a truck in one day). Any advice is appreciated.

As a former UHaul employee: Avoid UHaul.

# ¿ Mar 4, 2015 15:31

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

nitrogen posted:

ok, what the hell is this button for?

in before "fart fan"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rErrkuLYAvI

# ¿ Mar 4, 2015 19:37

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Pander posted:

They weren't replaced because my theory is the dealership repair center was pants on head stupid. They replaced one strut (front left). Then they told me it wasn't that, it was the bushing, so they replaced the one bushing, by itself. Should an alignment be done at that point, or some point like that? Just asking because none was and I later found out I was really out of alignment after it started pulling way left and my tires got hosed up in about a month.

Midas shop's the one that said I really should replace the lower control arms if the bushings go bad or else they'll probably just go bad again.

I should probably get a new car simply because I don't need the full sedan size anymore (used to move a lot in the military, it was pretty good for that). So I guess going back to my second question, what do I need to disclose about its issues to prospective buyers? I tend to be super honest, but I think saying "I hate how it always seems to have suspension problems I can never fix" would be a bad idea.

Your whole situation seems more like incompetence/poor communication that would be solved by not visiting either of those shops again and taking it to someone who will actually fix your problem.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 17:31

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Drunk Pledge Driver posted:

I posted a while back about my Ranger's rear diff making GBS threads the bed. It's a '99 2.5L RWD with 7.5" 4.10 rear diff. Am I able to swap in a 4x4 rear diff? I can't seem to find that info online. I'd imagine from my limited knowledge of 4x4 differentials that the diff somehow can lock when put int 4x4 mode so again I don't know if that would work for me.

It's a non issue for you.

# ¿ Mar 15, 2015 05:31

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Arrath posted:

Tires! I'm not sure if this is the place to ask but I didn't see a tire megathread so here we go.

If it matters I'm driving an '02 Silverado 1500 and right now it has Toyo M-55s on it (to quote the sidewall: LT 233/85r16 M-55 M+S) that are getting near being slicks. So it's new tire time.

I work construction, which means I get a lot of highway miles commuting to and from work, as well as miles on big projects with roads that range from 'grubbed dirt track' to 'we bladed in a load of 6inch minus, good luck!" or even fresh shot rock with sharp as gently caress edges, so tough tires are certainly a requirement. As well as the typical jaunts up logging roads to go shooting in random borrow pits.

Please recommend me a tire, I really don't know what I should be getting. I do understand that good tires (like the ones I have that have lasted me a long time) may cost some money, that's fine. I'm not expecting some $75/ea shitpiles to fit my needs.

More M-55s?

Gingerbread House Music fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Apr 1, 2015

# ¿ Apr 1, 2015 19:11

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Extra posted:

http://stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/bleeding-brakes

yo bro, just suck that poo poo out of the reservoir with a turkey baster.

# ¿ Apr 2, 2015 13:47

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

trigonsareNOThomo posted:

Absolute best gas mileage small suv?

Kia soul ev?

# ¿ Apr 10, 2015 20:55

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Yousomuscle posted:

Thanks for the insight, I checked the fluid reservoir and it's completely full - has been since before and after I changed my brakes, topped it off after that obviously. Again, it shifts just fine going into gears 2(sometimes), 3, 4, 5, and reverse. It's just first gear that causes trouble, and even then just the act of putting the car in gear, the driving is fine. I don't really have the means to lift the car up enough to get underneath the front, and even then I wouldn't know what exactly to look for... I might just have to take it to a garage and have it looked at.

Why is it obvious you topped off the clutch fluid after doing the brakes?

# ¿ Jun 28, 2015 18:39

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Geoj posted:

Were you told the suspension had been recently replaced prior to purchase? Swaybar endlinks needing to be replaced should have also been a sign the suspension needed replacing as well since they're typically done at the same time.

what

# ¿ Jul 4, 2015 23:28

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Geoj posted:

Here, let me spoon feed you the post I was replying to:

TL;DR he bought a used 10+ year old car, was told the swaybar endlinks needed to be replaced and is now surprised there is more suspension work required.

Don't be a douche.

# ¿ Jul 4, 2015 23:41

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

Quoting myself because reasons.

More internet research and listening to the thing sounds EXACTLY like a collapsed lifter. What's my parts list for this thing? Lifters + rollers + cams? Just lifters and rollers? Anyone got a FSM for this repair?

Depending on how much time/money you have either scrounge some good lifters and dump them in your motor if it hasn't started wiping the cam, or source another engine asap.

# ¿ Jul 6, 2015 19:58

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Reason posted:

I've got a 2004 rav 4 that is ready for its 150k maintenance. I checked with my normal dude to see how much that would run me and he said $400. That seems a bit steep. Is that normal? Do I need to look for a new guy?

It depends on what our 150k service is.

# ¿ Aug 4, 2015 17:23

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

VelociBacon posted:

I could swear there was a vetted product specifically for putting in the tank of a car that had been sitting a long time. In the mustang I would be very tempted to drop the tank and actually drain it manually and maybe flush it to make sure there isn't poo poo all in it that would make you have to replace the fuel lines.

Tank Sealers are all trash. Repair or replace.

# ¿ Aug 6, 2015 22:22

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

EightBit posted:

The bearings in the rear axle of my Jeep (dana 35 axle, btw) are lubricated by gear oil in the differential case. I don't see a pump anywhere in that thing, how the gently caress do the bearings get enough oil? Surely it's not just a case of hoping that you take corners hard enough to sling oil down the tube, because I do lots of straight-line highway driving, and the factory bearing lasted 195,000 miles.

Your axle has it's own oil, and it's moved around by the gears splashing it.

# ¿ Aug 17, 2015 19:57

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

rdb posted:

Car buying at a dealer is easy. Your wallet is getting lighter, and your getting screwed. How much depends on how well you read the fine print and your negotiating skills. There is a thread in ask/tell with car buying advice.

In general, its best to go at the end of the month and don't be afraid to walk out. Have your financing pre arranged and don't let them talk to you about payments, only the bottom line. Refuse any extras (window etching, undercoating, extended warranty), and don't put a deposit down until you reach an agreement.

All your examples of things to avoid are actually Good Things (tm). VIN Etchings lower your insurance, Undercoating extends the life of your car if you aren't in the west and an extended warranty is generally cheaper than paying out of pocket.

# ¿ Aug 26, 2015 18:29

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Bovril Delight posted:

VIN etching discount only applies for some companies and it is usually such a paltry amount it would take decades to recoup the cost

Dealer undercoat are usually marked up to hell.

You can often score the very same factory extended warranty online. Many forums have dealer reps who will quote and sell that warranty for significantly cheaper. If you can quote this and get the dealer you buy from to match it's usually a good price.

Then negotiate. You're negotiating the car, why wouldn't you on the rest?

# ¿ Aug 26, 2015 23:58

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

flyboi posted:

Do I need to do anything in regards attempting to dry the interior out or should I just leave it until Progressive is around to deal with the car?

STOP. loving. WITH. IT.

# ¿ Aug 28, 2015 18:07

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

flyboi posted:

Christ I was getting my poo poo out of the car so it doesn't get moldy I wasn't dicking around with it. I'm not getting in it anymore I just don't know if I needed to make an effort to dry it out or not as I've never dealt with this nonsense before.

Take your poo poo out, lock the car and then realize it's done. Your insurer will send someone to look/retrieve it and then you'll never see it again.

# ¿ Aug 28, 2015 18:11

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

spog posted:

You've filled an electrical plug with non-conductive grease. I'd want to clean that out.

That...isn't how things work. The grease will insulate the connection from anything else getting in there, not from itself.

# ¿ Sep 9, 2015 11:30

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

It's a 30hp difference in the fbody.

# ¿ Sep 13, 2015 00:00

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Raluek posted:

But you can do so much more with an LS1; the LT1 is pretty limited without doing some serious work. Plus the LS1 cars have better brakes, if that's something that matters to you.

LS1 cars also go for a loooot more. If you just want a "just do zomg:brum" car, the LT1 is the cheap way.

# ¿ Sep 13, 2015 01:55

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

While the LT1 certainly doens't have the cheap potential an LS1 does, i fear the car you can find with an LS1 for $2100. Also, LT1s just sound hellarad.

# ¿ Sep 13, 2015 19:59

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

StormDrain posted:

1972 international pickup, v8 with dual exhaust.

Does anyone have a good estimate for labor hours requires to custom fabricate dual exhausts from the manifold back? Trying to decide if $1300 is reasonable for a complete replacement.

Not unless they're custom building the manifolds and its all stainless. Jesus.

# ¿ Sep 15, 2015 17:11

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

MRC48B posted:

I have one installed on my 850, and I JUST did an oil change.

Pros to the fumoto:

No wrench required, no dropping the plug into the pan, no oil splattering everywhere when you pull the plug. You can start/stop draining whenever you want, which is handy if you take samples for blackstone or whatever.

Cons: drain hole size is smaller than your plug, so it will drain a little slower (who cares, have another beer). On my vehicle, the oil pan doesn't go past the subframe, and the plug is kinda recessed into the back of the pan anyway, so I'm not worried about it getting caught/damaged by driving over stuff. Also it's a volvo, so it's not like I'm offroading or rallying with it.

It's convenient and nifty, and I'm glad I installed it. Not strictly necessary though.

Slip some cheap hose over it, route that hose right into your old oil jug. It's AWESOME.

# ¿ Sep 24, 2015 00:31

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Run the champions. That engine and ants the shortest coppers you can find anyway.

# ¿ Oct 4, 2015 20:48

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

DELETED posted:

I was driving the speed limit

You can totally get pulled over for doing the limit in poo poo weather, bro.

# ¿ Oct 11, 2015 16:44

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Senior Funkenstien posted:

Question: For my 1970 Plymouth Duster with the 225 Slant Six engine. It has a singe barrel carb on it right now. If I went to a 2 barrel carb would I need a different intake manifold?

You can probably find an adapter plate.

# ¿ Oct 13, 2015 01:03

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Abu Dave posted:

My budget is about 30k so I can't afford a Forrester or a Explorer as much as i'd love to. My SUV options are basicaly the Rav4, the CR-V or a Cherokee I currently ahve a 02 Explorer.

The Forester starts at under 23k though?...

# ¿ Oct 18, 2015 22:56

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Abu Dave posted:

I still can't decide on what to get, and i'm blaming it on the dealer(s). No one has the base model Toyota Tacoma in, just the souped up ones. Which made me look at the Honda CR-V's and they seem nice I guess .

Thanks again for all your help goons.

Tell them what you want and that it's that sale or no sale.

# ¿ Oct 23, 2015 20:26

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Hahah, really? My Ranger came with 185-70R14s iirc. You'd be fine, but you'd lose lots of ground clearance.

# ¿ Oct 28, 2015 19:14

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Ribsauce posted:

I have a 2001 Ranger. It was raining today and water was coming in the back of the cab near the roof above the rear windows. I looked at the outside of the roof and did not see any rust or holes. My only guess is the water is coming in through the brake light. What kind of shop can I take it to? Could it be something else? I don't see any rust or cracks/holes in the metal. Maybe the windows? It is on both sides of the brake light. It wasn't raining that hard but the water looked like it really coming in.

Unscrew the brake light cover and check the gasket. If it's hard/torn/etc, replace it.

# ¿ Nov 2, 2015 02:30

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

stevobob posted:

Crossposting from Subaru thread:

My 2004 Impreza 2.5TS has a clunk/brief rattle in my front end when going over bumps. Recently replaced items are both control arms + ball joints with OEM by Barrie Subaru, tie rod ends (Delco), and struts+mounts (KYB GR2 struts and KYB mounts). I have been totally unable to find the source of the clunk for weeks now, so yesterday I dropped it at the local Napa Autopro and they tell me that there is nothing unsafe and they cannot specifically find the problem. After test driving and inspecting, their tech suggests that the new struts or mounts may have gone bad. Does this sound reasonable? I ordered the struts and mounts from tirerack back in April and would have to try to get them warrantied, I guess.

My Forester's end links are trash and bumps sound like someone is rattling a metal rod around in my front end.

# ¿ Nov 6, 2015 19:12

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

EightBit posted:

I did my best to get the focus on the journals, but my phone fought me every step of the way.

Here's the crankshaft main that goes with the earlier picture:

Here's a connecting rod journal:

You did have the crank inspected/cut before putting it back together last time, right?

# ¿ Nov 23, 2015 21:53

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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 09:31

Gingerbread House Music: Dec 1, 2009; by FactsAreUseless; Lipstick Apathy

Argentic posted:

Hey guys, I have a 2014 Honda Civic and a really dumb question: what's the best way to clean the interior of the windshield? Mine has sort of an oily haze that I'd like to get rid of, but I want to make sure I don't accidentally gently caress up the glass or something.

Glass cleaner.

# ¿ Nov 24, 2015 15:40

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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