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blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
I should probably change the oil on all vehicles today (Saabaru, Miata, Civic). I have an OEM Subaru filter in the closet but nothing on hand for the Miata or Civic and parts counters are closed today. Which aftermarket brand should I get, or does it matter? Are any/most aftermarket filters superior to OEM filters? The Saabaru and Miata get driven hard, if it makes a difference.

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blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

SeaWolf posted:

Not worth it's own thread and certainly barely worthy of its own post but I decided to get rid of my '01 SLK230 and found myself sitting in a brand new Hyundai Genesis. Still kind of in shock over letting the Merc go but I really like this car. And of course; fitted with summer tires the day I drive it home it's snowing balls out and lord knows when I'll be able to get winter tires fitted on it.

Yay me. Nice to have a car that has no cabin problems though.

What sort of cabin problems did you have with the SLK?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
I've been having problems reading the oil level on the Saabaru dipstick lately. No matter how many times I wipe and redip it comes way up the sides and is much lower in the bottom. At which level should I read it?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
At what mileage should I consider a suspension refresh? I'm thinking about my Saabaru in particular and am not sure what I should look at/replace besides bushings - springs and struts? Anything else?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Windows going up very slow in my Miata - any easy way to tell if it's the motor or regulator?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
One of the HIDs in my Saabaru frequently goes out when I go over a speed bump (signal and parking light on that side work fine). It generally fixes itself when I turn the car off and back on. Would this suggest it's not a loose connection, but maybe something with the HID or ballast? It's tightly packaged in there so I haven't gotten a good look at it, although I was able to disconnect and reconnect the bulb, which didn't help.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Just changed the tranny oil on my Miata and forgot to put the crush washer back on the drain plug. I ran it while it was still up on jacks for a few minutes and didn't see any leaks. Put it out of my mind or do it over?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
HID update:





Checked the bulb and I have white goo like toothpaste on one side. The only thing I can think of it being is wax, but the assembly seems pretty well sealed. WTH?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

Slavvy posted:

That is what an HID bulb looks like after it's gone to heaven (or hell if you found it in an incandescent headlight).

How does the goo generate on the outside?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Whine from engine compartment of Saabaru for about 5 minutes on cold start. I assume it's the alternator as it gets louder with throttle. Bearings wearing out? It's weird because it started happening around the same time I had a (reputable) shop do the timing belt; I think they did the accessory belts at the same time but I don't see how that'd cause any trouble.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Wheel chat: repair my banged up alloys ($100-$150 each) or keep em and buy refurbs of unknown provenance off eBay ($160-$170 each; rockauto is out of keystone sourced wheels)

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
I'm trying to remove a strut and no amount of PB blasting or breaker barring will get these two bolts to move:



I assume an impact wrench would just make them spin, but would I hurt anything by trying?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

EightBit posted:

You're putting a wrench on both sides, right?

Yup.

Tried impact gun and it just started rounding the bolt. Applied more PB, waited a bit more and went at it again with breaker bar and a length of pipe.

RIP breaker bar.



I'm giving up and taking it to a shop.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

Bajaha posted:

Not in the slightest.

Lefty loosy, righty tighty? You sure you're applying force in the right direction?

E: in your pic, your should be "lifting" the breaker bar with the socket on the nut, and a wrench on the bolt head.

This is just wrinkling my brain how something so clean can be so stuck.

That's what I'm doing. I don't get it either.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
The owner's manual on my wife's 05 Civic indicates 10k oil changes. Can this possibly be correct? I'm using Mobil1 every 3500mi since it's cheap and available in the right weight at Costco.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Yeah, my last car had a 10k change, I had just heard everywhere that the Civic was 3500. Oh well, it's still really cheap oil.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Should I buy this?

https://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/5500672342.html

Want something I can haul big things in and serve as a snow car when necessary. I hear this gen of 4runners are kind of rolly and not great in collisions but other than that I don't know much about them.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Which V6 in older Toyota trucks is the one with head gasket issues? Any other things to look for on the above?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

kastein posted:

3.0L 3VZ-E V6.

Unsure of other issues.

So the 2.7s are hunky dory?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Got home from 3 hours in traffic and really hot weather and under the hood of my Miata smells like glue. Any idea what this could be? Temperature gauge was normal, car behaved normally other than a little more valve clatter than usual.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
So a family member offered me their 2008 X3 for its Carmax trade in value, but it's the Si with staggered 19" wheels and it needs new tires.

Front: 235/45-19
Rear: 255/40-19

The only thing with matching tread pattern I can find in that size are expensive Pirelli P-Zero Rosso summers at $1000-1200/set.

I'm looking at 3 options:

1) Buy another set of Pirellis. We get a lot of rain where I live so I'm concerned about their performance in the rain. I don't want to keep buying expensive tires for the car but we would likely only have it until we are comfortable buying a newer CX5 or Outback or something. My wife only drives 5-7k miles/year so it is possible we'd only buy tires for this car once before selling it again.

2) I've read online that you can run a 235/40 on the front wheel, which would open up a lot of options besides the Pirellis, but I'm taking that with huge a grain of salt. Wouldn't there be a sacrifice in safety and performance?

3) Sell the OEM 19s and buy 18s with decent all seasons for around the same total price as the Pirellis ($1000-$1200). Not sure if anyone would want to buy the OEM 19s and the car looks funny on the smaller wheels, but it would get us into better rubber and it would make tire shopping easier in the long run if we keep the car longer than expected.

Can someone check my thinking on this?

blk fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Aug 16, 2016

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Wife needs a new battery. Optoma? Kirkland signature? Weight and load are not issues.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Can anyone ID this car?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Keeping me up at night: how do you rotate tires on an AMG 6x6?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Wife got a CEL on her 2009 Outback 3.0 Thursday and Friday. By the time she told me about it today it was gone. I pulled the codes and it looks like one bank misfired. Should I worry about it or wait until it comes back? Car only has 50k so I'd be surprised if it was a coil pack or something.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Edit: nm

blk fucked around with this message at 23:44 on Mar 16, 2017

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Shop doing the airbag recall on my Saabaru said I have air in my power steering pump. I'm wondering if the o-ring is the leak per: https://howtune.com/articles/216-repair-the-whining-steering-pump-on-a-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti

If I replace the o-ring, do I still need to bleed the system to get the air out? It sounds like a pain.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.


09 Subaru Outback with the EZ30. I'm not sure really where to start with this. My wife has been having the 1-3-5 bank misfire on her about once a month this year. Recently, it started happening every two weeks. Most recently, it had both banks misfire. The car only has a little more than 50k miles on it. These are the only codes, all the sensors pass the test except the evap monitor, which erred for some reason (see below).

Soon after we bought this car for her last year we put in a new battery. Someone on the Outback forums said that they once had a battery with a bad cell cause misfires like this for them, so I might try swapping that out, but it seems highly unlikely. I'm otherwise concerned that it could be cats, head gasket, knock sensor, timing issues, valve issues, carbon buildup, electrical and/or grounding issues, etc. There are so many possibilities that I just don't know where to begin. A can of Seafoam and a new battery feel like barking up the wrong tree.

PS: I've been clearing the codes after pulling them from the car. Am I correct that if the car was continually misfiring, it'd generate new codes right away? Or is there some period of time after clearing the codes where new ones don't register right away?



code:
Vehicle Manufacturer: Subaru
Vehicle Calibration ID: D2T

Test report:
------------------
MID:$01 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 3.79993V   Min: 1.79999V
Test result value: 2.80271V
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$82
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 4.99609mA   Min: -4.99609mA
Test result value: 0mA
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$83
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 500Ohm   Min: 0Ohm
Test result value: 31Ohm
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$84
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 1.99882lambda   Min: 0.85lambda
Test result value: 1.0287lambda
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$85
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 1.15lambda   Min: 0lambda
Test result value: 0.97984lambda
PASS
----
MID:$01 TID:$86
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1
Max: 0.19922Ratio   Min: 0Ratio
Test result value: 0.05469Ratio
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$05
Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 480ms   Min: 0ms
Test result value: 384ms
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$06
Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 2,016ms   Min: 0ms
Test result value: 128ms
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$07
Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 0.15V   Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.127V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$08
Maximum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 65.535V   Min: 0.55V
Test result value: 0.605V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$87
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 65.535V   Min: 0.03V
Test result value: 0.112V
PASS
----
MID:$02 TID:$88
- O2 Bank 1 Sensor 2
Max: 1.2V   Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.112V
PASS
----
MID:$05 TID:$81
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 3.79993V   Min: 1.79999V
Test result value: 2.79783V
PASS
----
MID:$05 TID:$82
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 4.99609mA   Min: -4.99609mA
Test result value: 0mA
PASS
----
MID:$05 TID:$83
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 500Ohm   Min: 0Ohm
Test result value: 30Ohm
PASS
----
MID:$05 TID:$84
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 1.99882lambda   Min: 0.85lambda
Test result value: 0.99241lambda
PASS
----
MID:$05 TID:$85
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 1.15lambda   Min: 0lambda
Test result value: 0.98067lambda
PASS
----
MID:$05 TID:$86
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 1
Max: 0.19922Ratio   Min: 0Ratio
Test result value: 0.0625Ratio
PASS
----
MID:$06 TID:$05
Rich to Lean sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 2
Max: 480ms   Min: 0ms
Test result value: 448ms
PASS
----
MID:$06 TID:$06
Lean to Rich sensor switch time(calculated) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 2
Max: 2,016ms   Min: 0ms
Test result value: 192ms
PASS
----
MID:$06 TID:$07
Minimum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 2
Max: 0.15V   Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.142V
PASS
----
MID:$06 TID:$08
Maximum sensor Voltage for test cycle(calculated) - O2 Bank 2 Sensor 2
Max: 65.535V   Min: 0.55V
Test result value: 0.576V
PASS
----
MID:$06 TID:$87
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 2
Max: 65.535V   Min: 0.03V
Test result value: 0.264V
PASS
----
MID:$06 TID:$88
- O2 Bank 2 Sensor 2
Max: 1.2V   Min: 0V
Test result value: 0.264V
PASS
----
MID:$21 TID:$89
- Catalyst Monitor Bank 1
Max: 24.99968Ratio   Min: 0Ratio
Test result value: 13.13655Ratio
PASS
----
MID:$31 TID:$8a
- EGR Monitor Bank 1
Max: 32.767kPa   Min: 1.572kPa
Test result value: 23.96kPa
PASS
----
MID:$39 TID:$93
- 
Max: -1,399.75Pa   Min: -8,192Pa
Test result value: -1,407.75Pa
PASS
----
MID:$3b TID:$94
- EVAP Monitor (0.090")
Max: -1,299.75Pa   Min: -8,192Pa
Test result value: -1,674Pa
PASS
----
MID:$3b TID:$95
- EVAP Monitor (0.090")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3c TID:$96
- EVAP Monitor (0.040")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3c TID:$97
- EVAP Monitor (0.040")
Test incomplete or dependant test failed
--
MID:$3d TID:$98
- EVAP Monitor (0.020")
Max: 599.75Pa   Min: -8,192Pa
Test result value: 52.5Pa
PASS
----
MID:$41 TID:$99
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 1
Max: 250Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$41 TID:$9a
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 1
Max: 250Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$41 TID:$9b
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 1
Max: 50Ohm   Min: 0Ohm
Test result value: 31Ohm
PASS
----
MID:$42 TID:$9c
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 2
Max: 320Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$42 TID:$9d
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 2
Max: 320Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$45 TID:$99
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 2 - Sensor 1
Max: 250Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$45 TID:$9a
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 2 - Sensor 1
Max: 250Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$45 TID:$9b
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 2 - Sensor 1
Max: 50Ohm   Min: 0Ohm
Test result value: 31Ohm
PASS
----
MID:$46 TID:$9c
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 2 - Sensor 2
Max: 320Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$46 TID:$9d
- O2 Heater Monitor Bank 2 - Sensor 2
Max: 320Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a1 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Monitor General Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 7Count
PASS
----
MID:$a1 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Monitor General Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a2 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 1 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 2Count
PASS
----
MID:$a2 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 1 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a3 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 2 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 1Count
PASS
----
MID:$a3 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 2 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a4 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 3 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 1Count
PASS
----
MID:$a4 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 3 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a5 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 4 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 1Count
PASS
----
MID:$a5 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 4 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a6 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 5 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 2Count
PASS
----
MID:$a6 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 5 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----
MID:$a7 TID:$0b
EWMA Misfire counts (average) for last 10 drive cycles - Misfire Cylinder 6 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 1Count
PASS
----
MID:$a7 TID:$0c
Misfire counts for last/current driving cycles(calculated) - Misfire Cylinder 6 Data
Max: 65,535Count   Min: 0Count
Test result value: 0Count
PASS
----

blk fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Jul 1, 2017

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
I've never experienced milkshake before. Is this what it looks like, or does it look more like grease from a CV joint with a torn boot?



blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
I may have overfilled my NA Miata by a quart of oil (5 instead of 4). Anything to be concerned about?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Two stupid questions:

I recent purchased a NC Miata that sits a little too low for my jack to approach from the front to a central jacking point. I can kind of get it under the sides, but the jack plate basically covers the entire pinch weld, so I'm not sure how to get a stand under there at the same time. What am I missing?

My Saabaru has a grinding noise coming from the front wheel area - anyway to tell if this a CV joint vs a wheel bearing, or something else?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.


Trying to replace struts and springs on my NC Miata. The strut boots are falling apart. I was going to replace them but OEM are hard to find. Aftermarket boots don't include the lip at the top that insulates the spring against the metal tops.

Should I just reuse these? Is it OK to put the strut together without them? I'm concerned about NVH if I don't have that rubber insulating lip.

PS: These are the fronts, do any Mazda people know if part number is same for rear? The dealership parts people can't find the part number in the catalog anywhere.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Any sources of junkyard parts besides car-part.com? Looking for NC2 Miata taillight lenses but they're expensive AF.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Need to do power steering pump on my EJ255 Saabaru. Do I need to drain the fluid for this, or flush it afterwards to get air out?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Went to change my gear oil today and WTF @_@



The T17 bolt is completely destroyed; I can't get a bit to seat in it, and it's round on the edges. I'm not sure who did this job last. Any alternatives to drilling it out? I'm worried I'll destroy the threads on the tranny itself.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

just another posted:

I need a vehicle that can comfortably sit five, plus a dog, and camping gear, and travel down logging roads and beat up rural highways. And handle with real winter driving.

Am I stuck looking at SUVs or am I underestimating minivans?

Buick Regal TourX (AWD station wagon)

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
The NC Miata has a fan resistor that's notoriously hard to get to, on the back side of the heater/cabin fan housing right inside the firewall.

Mine seems to have died and I can't get to it. One Miata.net member found where to drill through the firewall in the engine bay to get to it from that side and I might end up doing that. Thread here: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=670680

Can someone help me understand the consequences of punching a new hole on the firewall? Will the cabin be hotter and noisier? Do I need to worry about water or fumes?

Can I use my regular cordless hand drill? Do I need a special bit? I assume I'd cut from there with a knockoff Dremel.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
I'm in a hurry to get a Flyin Miata hitch receiver on my NC. The hitch sandwiches in between the bumper and the chassis. You take off the bumper, slide it over the studs on the chassis, slide the bumper back on top of that, and bolt it all down.

The problem is that someone hit me a few months ago and it turned out to deform part of the bumper. I've straightened it out on the chassis side using the hitch as a template. I can't figure out how to get the bumper straight, or who to take it to for help. It obviously needs to be straightened out so the holes will still line up with the studs.

Here's what it should look like:



Here's what it actually looks like:





I'm thinking of trying to even things out by threading bolts through with really large washers and tightening things down, but that's because I'm an idiot. What's a better fast/cheap/easy way to do this?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

big crush on Chad OMG posted:

Did you get this persons insurance info? That metal is already deformed from the hit, I absolutely would not trust a hitch mounted after bending it back, thus bending it twice.

No witnesses and it was my word versus his; my insurance rolled over even though I lawyered up and fought it for a while. I have a $1000 collision deductible.

I’m definitely skeptical about trusting it as well, but the bumper reinforcement itself wouldn’t be holding any load. The hitch is under 20 lbs. I’d be using it to carry a bike rack that is also under 20lbs, and bikes ranging from 14 to 39 lbs.

Maybe it’s worth filing a claim, I’ve just had so many things happen to this car beyond my control that it’s become a frustrating money pit.

A new bumper reinforcement is $200 on eBay.

My landlord has a wood shop and I’m wondering if I can drill a template into a sturdy piece of wood and bolt the receiver to that to pull it straight. I might pursue that if the washers don’t work out.

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blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

IOwnCalculus posted:

If you are never going to use it to do more than hold a bike rack, then I would just make it bolt up and call it good.

Got it straight enough in a vise to thread it all back together. Accidentally sheered off a (stud? what do you call bolts embedded in a chassis?) but it was probably weak at this point anyways, still have 5 holding everything together and it feels solid as heck.

Better keep my bike insurance up, though!

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