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Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Anyone know anything about the new PSL Purolator filters that are supposed to be specifically designed to run with full synthetic oil? I've been using PL Purolator One filters since forever, and I'm wondering if the PSL's are worth the extra coin. Google is surprisingly unhelpful.

Edit: I'm an idiot have a forum thread
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...opics/2549203/1

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Apr 11, 2016

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Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Father Jack posted:

Two stupid questions I guess.

Car is a 2003 Vauxhall/Opel Corsa 1.2sxi (green/spearmint silver)

I took the car for its MOT (legally required UK inspection) today. It failed on 'Service brake: efficiency below requirements [3.7.8.7].

The brakes felt fine to me, but OK. The garage recommended new front disks and pads, saying in addition to the rolling road fail the disks were badly corroded. Work approved over the phone and completed. They verbally told me that they bled the brakes, but its not specified on the paperwork.

When I picked the car up the brake pedal immediately felt spongy, far more force required to brake. Drove it the couple of miles home very carefully, and tried a couple of hardish stops in a controlled area. Not good at all.

So:

1 - Is this in any way normal or OK? Bedding in? This is the first time I've had pads/rotors replaced on a car, it sure wasn't like this after pad replacement on bikes. The pedal is spongy, travel has increased and I'm not sure even putting it to the floor could lock the wheels.

2 - The garage who did the work are not themselves MOT testers. The centre that signed off on it is a mile away from them. Should it have been driven back to the test centre and tested again on the rolling road before being given an MOT pass?

Edit: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech...e.jsp?techid=85

Your brakes need about 400-500 miles to fully bed in. Go-fast pads have their own little bedding-in procedure that involves things like a bunch of 60km/h-5km/h moderate braking. As nobody is except the shop is exactly sure what pads you have on there, I would just increase your following distance for the next little while or so. If it doesn't get better in the next hundred km, take it back to the garage and have them drive it.

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 19:36 on Apr 14, 2016

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


spog posted:

On a vaguely related hypothetical question about engines in general: would you notice an increase in performance after an oil change?

Assume non-edge cases such as race cars, or replacing thick black sludge.

My third E30 was race car (AutoX) that I just happened to daily as well, and during the two years I was hitting every local event there was and some of the ones farther away, the motor definitely felt more smooth and sounded better on fresh oil (Valvoline VR1 20w-50).

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


I got poo poo in my parents' neighborhood while in the Miata with a Racing Beat catback. There's a long, gentle hill where I just leave the car in 4th at 25mph and it just pop-sputters all the way down. So many angry faces.

I got one of the dudes in the car once and showed him I was not speeding and that was pretty much the end of it. Talk to your neighbors, I guess

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


mobby_6kl posted:

Recently I started hearing grinding noises under braking coming from the rear of my NB Miata. It's not constant but sounds something like once per rotation. Also doesn't seem to be there every time, and is more noticeable under gentle braking. The rear pads have been changed last year so that should be fine?

Any ideas what this could be or what to check to diagnose? The fact that it's not constant rubbing is throwing me off a bit. I'll probably have the car up this week anyway for oil and tire change, so ideally I'd know what to do already.

Don't shotgun parts at a car without at the very least doing rudimentary diagnosis. Pop the wheels off and have a look at your pads. If the wear is uneven you'll need to clean and regrease the slide pins (if the rear calipers even have them, I can't remember) or clean/rebuild the caliper. If your piston boots are in good shape all you really need to do is just take it apart and clean it. Also check that your pad clips are present and in place (again, if they have any, can't recall); missing clips can allow the pads to move where they ain't supposed to go and they can start grinding up against things.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


I've looked around a bit on this and it's like a splinter in my brain. I must find out.

TL;DR: Why don't we bleed brakes furthest to closest caliper on modern cars anymore? Or rather, what is so special about the ABS/VSC systems that make it different?

Okay so I've been bleeding brakes furthest caliper to closest since I've been bleeding brakes. I've also been chasing mushy pedal on my 2011 Honda Fit Sport since I started boiling the fluid and then changing to Wilwoods.

I haven't had a chance to try it yet, but apparently I am to bleed this car starting at the LF corner and then go around clockwise. I have a new can of Type 200 on the way now.

I'll follow the service manual, Honda engineers are (hopefully) smarter folks than I, but my question is: Why do I need to bleed this way? I'm assuming it's something to do with the ABS/VSC system but I'll be darned if I can puzzle it out on my own and apparently nobody else on the internet shares my nagging curiosity. I'm sure we have some Honda master techs or automotive engineers floating around here.

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 08:57 on Nov 29, 2017

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


wesleywillis posted:

2009 Corolla, 2.4l Rear dick brakes.

If you suffer from an engaged piston for more than four hours, see a mechanic

On a more serious note, there's not that much of a difference. You'd probably have to get it apart to tell, and at that point you can reman the caliper.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


kazr posted:

2002 Toyota tundra. Vehicle starts fine, but dies a few seconds after being put into reverse/neutral/drive. Any ideas?

Any MIL? Bad ICV, for starters. If it can't catch the idle in time then it will stall.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Seat Safety Switch posted:

They have to peel the tire off the wheel to change out the valve but it shouldn't need a new tire unless there's another leak in there that you can't see from outside.

A good tire shop can do a stem in about ten minutes. No more than a $20-$30 service (Dismount, Replace Valve Stem, Mount, Balance).

melon cat posted:

Goddamn you guys know your struts. Alright so it looks like I'm doing struts, tie rods, lower ball joint, stabilizer links, and bushings. Looks like I'll be accumulating a nice "little" collection of specialty tools since the local retailers don't lend them out. And you've all sold me on quick struts.

Unless you have some funky poo poo going on, if you're doing quickstruts the most you're gonna need as far as "specialty" might be a ball-joint popper (for popping your L/U CA BJ and TRE BJ). Otherwise it should all be sockets, wrenches, and some new cotter pins (for you castle nuts on TRE/BJ). For what it's worth I just loosen the ball joints, give the BJ socket a couple w-hacks with the 2-lb sledge, and she pops out. However, I live in Florida; if you live in the rust belt, get the ball joint tool, and get ready for some drama.

Autoexec.bat posted:

Anyone know the best way to figure out which accessory is grinding? My 89 Golf has been making a low growling/grinding bearing noise since I've owned it and I can't pinpoint if it's the AC or alternator as they are next to each other and the noise is intermittent. The socket extension trick was inconclusive likely due to the two sharing a bracket and it seems loudest right after switching the AC off (which also turns off the cooling fans) in the car but can happen at any time. Normal AC cycling doesn't seem to affect the noise.

Slide the belt off and give 'em a whirl with your fingers. If it's bad enough to make noise, it's generally bad enough you can feel it even with no load on the bearing. Otherwise, just wait for it to get a bit worse, and I imagine it will become more obvious.

Is the tensioner or an idler also in the area?

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 02:06 on Jun 4, 2019

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


vulturesrow posted:

Persistence pays off. Is parts geek reputable??

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2..._connector.html

I've never dealt with them personally, but they've been around for years, so... maybe?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


22 Eargesplitten posted:

Yeah, I expected some oil but they were seriously soaked. I have a picture of plug 3 that I was considering posting from immediately after I took it out. But unless it becomes relevant. Sadly I didnít get plug 1 or 2 until after a minute or so, they were even worse.

Whenever I see pictures of pistons theyíre always shiny, smooth and clean. OTOH, thatís when the engine has just been built/rebuilt and is being put back together. How rough/grey is normal for the piston faces? Iíve got a picture of that as well although I might try to get a better one, the lighting situation down the spark plug hole wasnít optimal.

Has anyone living in an apartment without a garage rented one to work on their car? Pros/cons? Would you do it again (assuming maintenance, not full-on project car)? Iím looking at moving to a place but it only has street parking, which rules out any work but emergency tire changes. If I needed to do significant work Iím wondering about renting a garage. Do places do month to month? Would a storage unit place get on my rear end over pulling a car in, assuming they even had lights, or does that vary wildly by owner? I know my in-laws have a storage unit in a complex that has at least one guyís ďhomeĒ gym in it.

Some storage places will let you do automotive work out of units. Hell, the place down the road let my buddy run a full-blown shop with a lift and everything; it's where I started developing advanced mechanic skills. Definitely varies by owner, however.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


einTier posted:

Hey guys, it’s been a long time. Like a really long time. But I’m at a loss and I don’t know who to ask or where to ask, but in the past this is the place that answers the unanswerable.

This is a Aztec Green car. A true 90’s ride.

Seriously, it is green and a 1993 Acura Integra GS. The problem is with the transmission and really crunchy shifts — but only when the engine is on. When the engine is off, it shifts like butter. Typical Honda smooth. Turn the engine on, and you can get it in gear but it takes some force — it’s like shifting a crashbox. There is absolutely no grinding.

The clutch was suggested but I’m not so sure. It I have the clutch pedal fully in, the car will not move an inch even if my foot isn’t on the brake. Shifting is difficult. If I put the car in fifth gear and let out the clutch I have no problem stalling the car. Clutch seems fine. Turn off the car, it goes back to shifting like normal.

Get the front end up in the air and repeat your experimentation with the clutch while in gear. If there's any more than minimal torque on the wheel you've got a clutch adjustment problem.

Cable or hydraulic?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


einTier posted:

Reasonably sure it's hydraulic. I'm not where the car is the moment to check. I'm suddenly realizing in my quick assessment of the problem I did not try shifting with the clutch in and the engine off.

I'm trying to see if understand what you're saying. I think you're saying that the clutch is coming back far enough to interfere with the transmission and needs to be adjusted. Not sure how to do that or why it would suddenly happen overnight, but I think I see the point. However, I don't understand why jacking the drive wheels up in the air would change anything here. I really don't understand what you mean when you say "If there's any more than minimal torque on the wheel..." The car can be driven under its own power.

As STR said, and I trust his claim of a cable operated clutch, it is likely out of adjustment and remaining slightly engaged. This will cause problems shifting, as the synchronizers aren't meant to handle anything more than the torque of a freewheeling mainshaft.

The test I spoke of would readily determine whether or not there was engine torque applied to the wheels with the clutch pedal fully depressed, indicating an adjustment problem. Sometimes wheels will spin a bit even with the clutch disengaged, as even the best bearings are not without friction and will transmit some force through the drivetrain, though in that case or even in the event of a slight maladjustment, not enough to move the car.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Stevie Lee posted:

I think the transmission in my 2010 Impreza might be dying. I was driving for a few hours this past weekend when my dash lit up with the AT Oil Temp light and the CEL. The AT Oil Temp light went away after I pulled over for a few minutes and hasn't come back on yet, but the CEL stayed on. The AT fluid level does look fine to me.

I took it to a parts shop and got the codes for the CEL, P0700 (Transmission Control System Malfunction) and P0741 (Torque Converter Clutch solenoid). It seems to be driving normally, but it's always sounded like poo poo so who knows.

I can't get into my regular shop for a couple weeks...How hosed am I?

Unrelated to that issue, I also have to replace the A/C compressor (I think) after my A/C died at the end of last summer and a recharge did nothing. Would it be dumb to buy a used compressor? Looks like $400-$600 new vs under $200 used

Transmission: sounds like the lockup solenoid might be hosed, which explains the AT temp issue. Clear the code, baby it, see if it comes back.

AC: how much longer are you going to keep the car? More than a couple years, I would buy new.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Colostomy Bag posted:

Sounds like my bowel movements.

But it is to be expected since you "cooked" the fluid. Probably 1/100 cases where one can say "yeah, drop the pan, replace this solenoid flush the fluid and off it goes."

Sorry for the bad news.

Oh, I don't know. He did stop pretty much immediately when the temperature light came on. Some new fluid on top of fixing whatever was wrong with the torque converter lockup might set it right again.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


fknlo posted:

When buying a used car with a lien on it from a private party out of state, the process should just involve paying off the loan and getting the title from the bank directly, correct? The DMV in that state shouldn't factor in at all? It's Wisconsin and I looked it up and they do issue the title to the lien holder but the seller keeps mentioning something about getting the title from the DMV. It has been a loooong time since I've bought anything private party so I'm just double checking.

e: so I called the bank the lien is through and they confirmed that you pay with guaranteed funds, they release the lien, and then you have to go to the DMV to get the title. I don't like the idea of giving out the money and not getting the title immediately, is there any actual risk on this? Does a bill of sale cover me until I get the title in hand?

Disclaimer: I Am Not A Lawyer, I was merely raised by a pack of them, and you are advised to consult with a Real Life Lawyer before taking any of my lovely advice under consideration.

Bill of Sale covers you [in Florida, at least; check both states' statutes]. However, you'd likely have to go to court to recover from the seller.

What you want to do is pay the lienholder directly, they'll be much more willing and able to return your funds. BoS should again cover you. If the seller doesn't give you title/car, then you just call the lienholder.

You may also want to talk to your bank, they're likely to have someone you could consult with.

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jun 12, 2019

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Leperflesh posted:

Could you meet at, and perform your transaction within, that DMV? You can even bring the seller with you through the queue and sign the paper right at the DMV person's counter as they provide the title.

I think there'd be an issue satisfying the lien at the counter, as that would involve [this would be my process under the condition] writing a check to the seller, the seller depositing that check via mobile (and then not acting like they've never heard of you and waltzing out), the entire check clearing immediately, the seller paying their bank with those new funds, and the bank then filing satisfaction of lien paperwork with the WI DMV immediately so that a fast title can be issued right then. This last would be the most unlikely; in my experience that poo poo takes at least a few hours.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Motronic posted:

This type of transaction is pretty much the entire reason escrow exists. Surely in a state where this kind of title stupidity exists there are also escrow services targeted at solving the problem for a few bucks. Maybe even banks.

Well, yeah, that would be the reasonable course of action, but this is SA.

also I completely forgot escrow even existed and oh my god I'm dumb

The Rev posted:

What is your preferred alternative for a filter? Also are you indicating the Toyota oil consumption is just the way it is, or are there any potential things I can do to help slow it down?

I personally like Purolator, either their One or Boss line depending on what's on sale. Regularly receive good reviews by people who obsessively cut open filters at bobistheoilguy.com

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


The Rev posted:

It's a Camry, not a Corolla. Sadly well past the warranty. I guess it can't hurt to call a local Toyota shop, but i am sure it wont be worth the price if they need to lift the whole engine.

Warranty ain't got poo poo to do with recall work. Get your VIN checked by the Toyota dealer.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Motronic posted:

And recalls ain't got poo poo to do with service bulletins, which this is.

RIP me, thanks for the correction

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Cracked rotor maybe? Loose caliper bracket? Binding in the slides?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Elysium posted:

What if I call AAA and have them tow it? I get 100 miles right?

Last time I got AAA to tow an in-op un-tagged car (FL) I got a little bit of poo poo from the driver, saying he wasn't supposed to tow unregistered vehicles. I mean, I get it, they're supposed to be helping stranded drivers, but... I pay for the membership, tow my loving car.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Elysium posted:

Assume I am an idiot.



Really though, I know it's frustrating. If it were me I would likely risk the trip with no plate and accept and high likelihood of at least one if not more traffic stops. In my experience, with the BoS and Title in the car, it's usually enough to get me home.

One thing, though; if insurance is a statutory requirement in PA, make sure you get it arranged before you make the drive. I know USAA will give me a policy with nothing more than a VIN, though your experience may vary.

However:

PainterofCrap posted:

Just make the 2-trips already. Yes, it's a giant PITA, but we've all had to do it.

I got away with what you want to do, but the last time I did it was around 1988.

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 15:06 on Jun 21, 2019

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


einTier posted:

Well, I put a new cable in. Adjusted it. Readjusted it. Missed your comment about needing a little slack and adjusted the ever living gently caress out of it. It's way past finger tight and my finger tight is pretty drat absurd. I used tools to move it a few additional turns.

Still crunchy. It worked once and I was real thrilled, then it went right back to where it was. Real inconsistent too. Sometimes it's got enough drag to move the car around effortlessly and sometimes it won't move at all. Every once in a while, it's butter smooth.

Looks like throwout bearing replacement time (and clutch, just because). I'm not doing that myself, so off to the shop.

Well, poo poo. At least that was the cheaper option, and with how old it was it ain't a lick amiss.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Leperflesh posted:

e. Oh hey
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tool...t/dp/B00004T82B

so they do, although they look different

Ooh, those look neat [add to wishlist]

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Beach Bum posted:

My Google-fu is failing me; can anyone get me the one-touch window reset procedure for a 2007 Mercury Sable? The procedures I've found ain't workin'.

Posted this in the chat thread because i'm stupid. Anyone got something?

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


PaintVagrant posted:

This happened today:




The car started and I was able to extricate it from impending doom. It seemed to run fine going home, but the clutch engagement seemed maybe a bit jerky the first few miles. Hard to say for sure, I dont know if water could get to the clutch friction plate or something when some of the transmission is immersed like this. Maybe just me looking for a problem that likely isnt there.

I've had a couple people tell me to call my insurance company saying it could be totaled. That seems unlikely to me, but I am no expert. Thoughts? The water level was pretty close to the bottom of the door, maybe within .5" towards the front.

Did it seep into the floorboards? If not you should be good. Clutch should dry out just fine as well.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


PaintVagrant posted:

Carpet isn't wet.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Autoexec.bat posted:

I would suggest going to a local junkyard and just getting a support, my local yard sells stuff like that for like $20 and you won't have to spend a day trying to hammer that into roughly the right shape.

Also I figured out my VW accessory noise, I finally decided to pull the belts and found the bearing was burned on the alternator. The whole car vibrates a lot less now. The AC also has a slight something in there but it is so minor I'm going to ride it for a while.

Anyone have any tips on making a new V-Belt not squeak when breaking in? It's more annoying than anything. It's not slipping it is just squeaky until it warms up.

If you're absolutely certain it's tensioned correctly, hit it with some belt dressing.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


fknlo posted:

I've had a slow leak on a tire on my M3. I was at Costco today and I was gonna have them patch it. They didn't find a puncture but they did find a small crack on the inside of the tire. They don't think it's what was causing the leak, but the tire is obviously going to need to be replaced. Is this safe to do normal driving on until I get a replacement set or should I just not drive the car for now?



If you haven't noticed anything up to now, you're probably all right until you get a replacement. Maybe don't put it in Sport mode and lay off the spirited driving until then, however.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Colostomy Bag posted:

Besides drowning, hydrolock is a worse case scenario.

There's levels of drowning, too.



Long time ago 'round here, someone was washed out of their Jeep and into a drainage culvert. They found the body days later in a stormwater drainage pond.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Skyarb posted:

I've got a stupid question. I have a honda fit, and the key for my car is an electronic fob but with an actual mechanical key still attached. I wanted to get a replacement key that is just the mechanical key with no electronics so I can take it with me in the water but I am not sure how or where to get such a key cut. Any ideas?

Gut feeling is call the dealer. I have a GE8 Fit myself but I'm not sure about the immobilizer setup.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Autoexec.bat posted:

It depends, if it is a battery fob yeah you still have the same problem. If it's a passive RFID key it doesn't really matter. Ultimately a waterproof case is a lot cheaper either way and is probably the way to go.

Yeah this is the simple, easy way. Put the key in a slidelock baggie for extra paranoia alleviation.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Krasniy Prospekt posted:

Hey,
Got a 2001 Honda CRV AWD. B20Z2 Engine with 248k miles. Manual transmission.

About a month ago I notice the engine struggling/stalling when idling and under load (turning, AC running, ETC). No codes or CEL. I gave the car a tune up (new plugs, leads, rotor/cap, ignition coil) and checked my valve clearances. All good, however the improvement in performance was negligible. I started to suspect the Idle Air Control valve. I replaced the valve and my idle got extremely worse. It no longer stalled, but it started bouncing. Anytime I had the car in neutral of the clutch engaged, the engine will repeatedly rev from around 1000rpm up to 2000rpm, back and forth with the increase taking roughly a second. I suspected I had purchased a faulty air control and returned it and bought a slightly more expensive one. The issue continued. No codes or CEL were being thrown at this point.

Everything I read online pointed towards air in the cooling system. I bought a purging funnel and purged the cooling system with the front of the car elevated to where the radiator cap was the highest point in the system. I rand the car at around 2000rpm and had the heat selected on like everyone said to while doing this. I did this twice, for about 20 minutes each time. I had a few air bubbles come up, but not much. The idle continue to surge, but now something new is happening. When I start the car, it will idle high (around 1800 rpm) and steady for about a minute. As the car warms up, the idle will start to bounce between 1000-2000rpm. As I drive the car more, it will eventually reach a point where the idle will fall HARD to about 1200rpm. It will bounce between about 1200-1300rpm EXTREMELY quickly. It's like a wavering bounce. Anytime I engage the clutch, or let off the gas, the revs will fall HARD and quickly to this point. When in gear and running, the engine runs normally, but like I said, will fall hard if I let off the gas or engage the clutch. The CEL light has now come on and is throwing a P0505 code Idle Air Control System.

I'm completely out of ideas. I've checked the wires and continuity of the IAC, in addition to every other thing I could think of idle-wise. I would appreciate any help from you guys. Thanks!

You're gonna have to check everything related to air and air metering. You'll want to check the MAP sensor for one (not MAF; B's don't have one), and every gasket past the throttle body, every vacuum line, booster, the works (pain in the rear end, I know). You might pop the resonator off the top of the intake and check out that gasket, it might be bone dry and leaking air bigtime. Best way to do all the leak checking would be a smoke machine in the intake/throttle body.

Also, even with no code, you could have a marginal EGR valve, so check that. Did you notice any pending codes when you saw the P0505?

Sorry man, these sorts of issues are a bitch if it isn't the IACV.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Rime posted:

So let's say you have the inner CV connection, where it goes into the axle cup. In here is your rotating components, which are held onto the shaft with a snap ring. Lets say that snap ring gets a little stretched during removal and is a bit loose on reinstall, and spins in the groove rather than being lock-tight.

Is my axle shaft likely to rip itself out because the snap ring is slightly expanded, or do I need to open a freshly greased CV boot and put a new snap ring on that thing before I die?

Additionally, what's the concensus for using heavyduty zip-ties to hold a CV boot on?



I've been running the OEM axle on my Fit with a knackered left inner joint clip for about 60k miles out of the total of 188k on the axle. There's a dozen auto autocrosses sprinkled in there as well. There is a big double-sided zip tie holding the boot. I have to be real careful not to separate the joint if I pop the control arm ball joints for any reason, but otherwise it seems to be fine.

Now, that's on a Honda, who generally puts terrific drivetrain parts on their cars, so your situation may be different depending on manufacturer. This is also a pretty low-deflection application, due to 600lb springs and a fat swaybar up front.

Javid posted:

Van is throwing a code that basically boils down to "something is hosed with the injector circuit, gl bro". Is it possible for me to figure out which cylinder(s), if any, aren't injecting?

Noid light

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 06:24 on Jul 19, 2019

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


glyph posted:

Hivemind:

2000 lesabre, borrowing from the grandmother in law for the time being while between cars.

It's sat for at least a month, and when I got in, the brake pedal was nice and firm, but as I drove along, like in the span of... seven blocks?, I heard brakes rubbing. Figuring it was rust, I gave it a few hard stops to clear the schmoo off, thinking they'd quiet.

Instead the pedal fell to the floor at the top of a rather big hill right in the heart of town. That was a thrill.

It does still stop consistently at the *very* end of pedal travel- near the floor- and DOES NOT seem to be leaking fluid- dry tires, no drips under mc or ABS rats nest.

Oh, and the brake fluid appears to be the OG, 20 year old stuff (just like the tires, which as best I can tell, are older than date stamps), it's almost black.

When pumping the pedal with the engine off, only the last inch feels like actual squeeze, everything above that is spongy like a motherfucker of a bubble.

I'm kind of at a loss here, I'll be the first to admit that I'm somewhat hoping that the MC isn't to blame (though it probably is)... Could a few hard stops have boiled the ancient, waterlogged, DOT3? (I think it's DOT3, or at least something hydrophilic). But if that were the case, wouldn't if have resolved once it cooled back down?

This is new for me, no leak, but definitely feels like an air bubble Has appeared in there. I'll try flushing the brake fluid tonight, but, we'll see.

Flush should clear the problem. Had a similar issue with my CR-V; when I test drove it, and up until I went through it and flushed the brakes (along with all the other fluids) braking was super fuckin' sketch. Flushed fluid, OH HEY PEDAL WORKS NOW.

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


rear end posted:



Now that you got that out of your systems, would you please like to answer my question, in case the thing sets on fire?

Unironic username spotted

That was the earnest advice. If you want brighter headlights, either spring for Silver Stars and replace them every year, or do a proper conversion for your head lights housings. LEDs in halogen housing really will dazzle other drivers, creating a major hazard. I find it likely that the majority opinion of AI would consider your fire hazard to be of little concern in comparison.

tl;dr if you're putting LEDs in halogen housings I couldn't care less if your car catches on fire

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Jul 31, 2019

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


rear end posted:

I am going to give you the benefit of the doubt and assume you did not read my first post well. I am installing LED bulbs for high beams, which a) are going to be bright as poo poo regardless, b) my car turns them off automatically when it detects a car and c) already have a good cutoff. The high beams are SEPARATE bulbs. My low beam headlights are normal, projector, straight from the factory HIDs. No one is getting blinded.


What a nice, completely normal thing to say.

Fair enough, I did miss the bit about high beams. I could now care less if your car caught on fire. (Notice I didn't say I wanted your car to catch on fire, I just said I wouldn't care)

Oh hell with it, mea culpa

Having a ton of wiring stuffed into a headlight housing sounds like a fire hazard to me. You should probably find a different solution. This solution would likely involve zipties and forgoing the OE weather sealing, as OE fitment generally relies on OE parts.

Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Jul 31, 2019

Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


Also there's been quite enough fire in AI recently we don't want any more

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Beach Bum
Jan 13, 2010


IOwnCalculus posted:

Use the 125/80/15 and if you get a flat on the rear, use the spare on one of the fronts first.

Yeah this is SOP for rolling on a donut; always put the donut on the non-drive axle, moving a wheel from non-drive to drive if necessary.

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