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How do I sale car. Is there a thread or a post with good information on how to sell a car on Craigslist? I've never dealt with a private car sale. I assume it's as simple as doing up a bill of sale and signing the title in the right place, but I've seen that screwed up before and had it screwed up on a motorcycle I bought. Alternately, is it true that trade-in value at a dealership is going to be well below what I could get in a private sale? 98 Ranger, 4.0L 4x4 with non-collision cosmetic damage (couple little dents and stuff, nothing big.).
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May 6, 2016 21:44
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Selling and title question: I live in Colorado and am selling my truck. I pulled the title out, and it's an Arkansas title (I bought it when I lived there). Somehow, when registering my truck in Colorado (which I did immediately when I moved here), I was never required to surrender it for a Colorado title. Do I have to get a new Colorado title in order to legally sell it?
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Jan 22, 2017 17:38
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Selling and title question: big crush on Chad OMG posted:Probably not legally but it would make it easier for the buyer, potentially attracting more of them. Is this the sort of issue that you can solve during the sale at the DMV? Like could the buyer and I go sit down at the DMV, complete the sale, and start the title transfer process there, since they'd need to do it after the sale anyway?
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Jan 22, 2017 20:17
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Can someone please describe the process of using an auto broker to buy a car? Like can I give them a checklist of things I won't compromise on, things I might compromise on, things I don't care about, etc? What are fees like? With a broker's fee included, will I really save more over doing my own negotiating with a dealer? Is a broker really that much more effective than I could be at finding exactly what I want? Thanks.
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Jan 24, 2017 22:56
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My wife's 2009 Toyota Matrix needs new pads and rotors up front. I think I have just about everything I need for tools, and the Hayne's manual is in the mail. I've never done automotive disc brakes, but am handy and have done a few motorcycle brake rebuilds. Anything I should know up front? Also, do I need a special socket for the spindle nut, or is it likely to just be a bigass 12-point?
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Apr 25, 2017 22:20
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Geoj posted:You shouldn't need to touch the axle nut. There should be two bolts holding the caliper to the slide pins (with flat spots machined on the slide pins to hold with an open-end wrench while you loosen the bolts) and then another two bolts holding the caliper carrier to the spindle itself. Remove the caliper & carrier and the rotor can be removed. So the rotor is just floating on the studs?
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Apr 25, 2017 22:25
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Enourmo posted:E: ^^Yep. Rotor is typically centered on the hub, the caliper holds it in place until the wheel is bolted on, at which point the lugs are retaining it. Some brands do have a screw retaining the rotor on the hub, but those are generally only needed for assembly line purposes and can be left off after servicing. monsterzero posted:Usually. Sometimes it's rusted in place. There will probably be two threaded holes on the hat or the rotor so you can drive a pair of bolts to pop it off the hub. Geoj posted:On 95% of cars, yes. Some may have a setscrew or two holding the rotor to the hub. If your Matrix has them and you can't get them to move (very common) they can be drilled out as they're only there to hold the rotor in place during installation of brake hardware. Sweet, thanks. This will be easier than I thought. Shop quoted me $375 and I figured it was time to learn. Are EBC automotive products pretty good? Anyone got a recommended (affordable) brand of rotors?
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Apr 25, 2017 22:59
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Crosspost:HenryJLittlefinger posted:Can anybody recommend me some pinstriping tape and/or warn me against any particular brand or type?
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Jul 24, 2018 06:14
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Bajaha posted:I've always had good results with 3M branded products, that would be my preference. Thanks. Got a roll of the Scotchcal stuff. Related questiosn: How tight of a curve is it reasonable to expect to be able make with 1/8" striping tape? Will it help to have it warm? HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 04:25
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Maybe this is a better post for the A/T car buying thread, and feel free to send me there if it is. I took the family car (09 Toyota Matrix) in to the big Toyota dealership in town for an airbag recall fix the other day. Couple days later, I get an email from the dealership saying something along the lines of "Your 09 Matrix is a high demand car around here and we'll pay you above market value for it if you bring it in." It's got like 120K on it or so. Maybe a little more. Is this just a strategy to get you to buy a new car from a dealership?
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Aug 15, 2018 21:50
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Ha! Thanks, I was pretty sure that's what it was. Odd that I've never seen that before.
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Aug 15, 2018 22:01
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I would like an explanation of modern CVTs and their benefits/drawbacks in comparison to modern automatic 6-spds. For reference, I am comparing 2014-2017 RAV4s and CR-Vs and trying to decide if the transmission needs to be part of my decision making process.
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Aug 16, 2018 17:16
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2007 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off road, V6, 6-spd Just had a brand new clutch put in (flywheel, disc, throwout bearing, the whole pack). When I start the truck now, there’s a rough kind of screechy grind while the starter is spinning, but not for the whole start cycle. Just kind of a “KkKKGGGHHH” about 0.5-1 second long over the normal starter sound. I’ve started it a handful of times since the work was done and driven normally, clutch feels great and everything is otherwise just fine. If I’m not imagining it, the sound is going away a little every time I start. The mechanic who did the work listened to it, said drive like normal, he’s not concerned, but made me an appointment to bring it in so he can check the starter and their stuff. Could this just be the sound of a new flywheel and throwout bearing spinning? Why only during startup? Could the process of the work have unearthed a lurking problem? The guy who did the work didn’t even touch the starter or any of that gearing as far as I know. It’s a good shop, all the mechanics are certified, and I’ve had years of good experience with them so I’m not too worried about fuckery. I’m hoping they don’t charge me diagnostics for this, seeing as it didn’t exist before they installed the clutch.
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Dec 17, 2019 05:45
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PainterofCrap posted:Sounds like a starter mis-alignment; the starter gear catching on the flywheel, and going for a brief ride before disengaging. Yeah, that makes sense. It occurred to me after I posted that the sound is just like when you try to start a running vehicle.
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Dec 17, 2019 15:54
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PainterofCrap posted:Sounds like a starter mis-alignment; the starter gear catching on the flywheel, and going for a brief ride before disengaging. wesleywillis posted:Let the shop deal with it. The guy might not have touched the starter, but you mentioned the flywheel got machined or replaced or whatever. That *might* have required removing the starter (probably not but maybe). Ding ding ding, you both win a cigar. Starter got put in wonky, no charge to fix it.
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Dec 19, 2019 00:50
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2007 Toyota Tacoma, V6, 6-spd I took it in to have the clutch chirp dealt with, assuming the thrust bearing was on its way out. Before that, I’d adjusted the pushrod throw to spec, having read that it might be the issue. It wasn’t, so I took it in. Turned out to be just rust on the flywheel and thrust bearing, but given the 112K on the clutch, I opted to have the whole thing replaced. $1650 later, I pick it up and the starter is making a funny noise (detailed in my last posts ITT). Easy fix, free since it was the mechanic’s fault. So I drove around on the new clutch for a few days, then started driving from Colorado to Arkansas the other day. The last leg of the day’s drive was 246 miles nonstop at 75 mph, no shifting at all between interstate exits. That’s getting close to 1000 miles on the new clutch. Pulling off into our hotel in Hays, KS, the slave cylinder failed. Pedal to the floor, no return, coasted into a gas station, a little bit of hot clutch stink, some fluid on the underside of the truck. Next day, had it towed to a dealership because it’s the only thing open and I have to get home for Christmas. The original shop that did the clutch insisted it be towed to a Napa affiliate for them to warranty the parts and labor. Fine. New shop in Kansas calls me when they open on Dec 26 and says the slave failed, but the rest of the clutch is fine. I’m not clear if they’ve actually looked at the flywheel and disc, but the mechanic I talked to insisted it’s all fine except the slave. Somehow it got stuck open and in the process of being held open it bought the farm. Since the slave is on the outside of the transmission housing, it’s only $145 for parts and labor. They don’t see how the original shop is liable. Question: How likely is it the original shop is liable? I.e., how much of a fight should I put up for $145 for the repair, given that we also incurred the cost of the tow, an extra night in a hotel, and gas for the rescue that my father in law gave us by picking us up in Kansas and driving the rest of the way to Arkansas, a 14 hour round trip? And I still have to get back to Kansas to get my truck when the repair is done. There were zero problems from the hydraulic system before the clutch was replaced. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 18:50
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I think my last post got buried or was too drat long or both, so I’m reposting. 2097 Tacoma, V6, 6-spd I got a new clutch put in. Mechanic minorly fudged the starter alignment, fixed it, no issues. About 1000 miles later the slave cylinder failed about 400 miles from home. The shop that fixed it wouldn’t explicitly say it was the previous shop’s fault, but said “for some reason it got stuck engaged, overheated, failed.” Original shop won’t take responsibility, said it could be coincidence, but when they had it off the bell housing, it all looked fine so they reinstalled, no recommendation for a new one. The fix only cost $200, but was an outrageous inconvenience. Is it probable enough that the original shop hosed up the reinstallation of the slave cylinder that I should give them poo poo?
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Jan 1, 2020 01:21
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About how much does it cost to hire a lawyer for a simple speeding ticket? Entirely hypothetical, I just watched a video recommending it and I've always figured lawyers are too expensive for typical $100-300 ticket.
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Jan 10, 2020 06:37
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Oh wow this is all really good information, thanks.
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Jan 10, 2020 08:07
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Question: I just advised someone not to jack by the lower control arm to avoid damaging ball joints. Was this overly cautious?
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Jan 26, 2020 19:09
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Right on, thank you. I’ve always done it myself when rotating tires on light trucks and cars, in this case it was “some big jacked up dodge or something, it’s at a weird angle and slope” and I was lending out my floor jack and stands to a buddy to do a favor for his buddy’s dad. Too many unknowns and I wasn’t there.
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Jan 26, 2020 20:00
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Motronic posted:All bets are off once you get into (lovely sounding) lift kits that reuse too many components left at janky, ball-joint-eating angles in order to be cheaper/faster to install. Yeah, I don’t gently caress with hosed-with suspension.
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Jan 26, 2020 20:16
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BRAKES I think I read in this thread that rotors are not a part you need to dump a bunch of money into for premium stuff. Is that true? I need to do at least the pads on my 2007 Tacoma, but not totally sure how to tell if rotors need replacement (unless they're scored or otherwise damaged). How much wear is acceptable, where do I measure? I have a caliper and micrometer. Re: pads, I usually just go with what the parts store tells me is halfway between cheapo economy parts and premium. I'm not a hard braker, but will be towing a pop up camper in the mountains from time to time. What should I go with?
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Mar 19, 2020 18:41
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, as long as they aren't completely unknown chinesium rotors are fine... and even then they can't be too bad. wesleywillis posted:Usually brake rotors have a discard thickness stamped in to them somewhere. It might be covered with rust and difficult to see though, but if you look on your rotors you might see it and then maybe wire brush some rust off and be able to read it. Thanks. No pulsing or anything, just a lot of travel. So those cheap ones really are ok? That just feels weird to go for bargains on such a safety critical part. What about pads? I usually go with sintered EBC pads on motorcycles, but I've only done car brakes a couple times and didn't think much past what the guy are OReilly told me. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Mar 21, 2020 |
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Mar 21, 2020 04:59
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2007 Tacoma TRD-OR, 4wd So I thought I needed a brake job but I’m not so sure now. Symptom is long pedal travel, everything else is normal. I took my wheels off to check everything before ordering parts and here’s what I found: Front pads have about 10mm of material left. I didn’t remove the rotors to find the spec thickness, but I estimate that there is less than 0.5 mm of wear on each surface. That’s for both sides, wear is even.  Rear shoes are 4-5 mm thick, drums are 254 mm ID with max of 256 mm.  Lines have been bled, no effect on pedal travel. Parking brake works pretty well, I know this because I forgot to undo it before taking the drums off and not was it a struggle till I realized what I’d done. Anyhow, all those measurements seem in spec. How do I adjust pedal travel to have braking begin near the top of the stroke?
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Mar 29, 2020 02:25
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I should add that it’s not a sudden problem. I’ve had the truck for about 12k miles, and it’s always been a little long on brake pedal travel. But feedback is good, never had a problem actually stopping, ABS works great, never bottomed it out on the floor, etc. It feels a little longer lately though.
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Mar 29, 2020 04:13
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Right on, thanks y’all. No softness, no pedal sinking while I’m holding the brakes. Everything feels right except engagement is just way down the pedal throw. I’ve got a harbor freight vacuum that works ok on motorcycles but requires another person on cars. Maybe I’ll order some speed bleeders and install those. I’ll try a harder reverse reset and see if I can monkey with the rear adjusters first.
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Mar 29, 2020 16:54
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2. Same part for the clutch as well as brakes, right? If I'm going to get some, might as well do all 4 wheels, the clutch, and the motorcycle. edit: nm, seems like the 2nd gen Tacomas are unicorns when it comes to bleeder size and there's a very limited selection of approved parts to use. And they have some kind of fancy booster of which I was unaware. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 31, 2020 |
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Mar 31, 2020 00:33
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I posted in here a while back about the brakes in my 07 Tacoma. Quick recap, the issue is long travel on the pedal, with full engagement near the end of the pedal stroke. I can feel them start to bite about where you’d expect them to, but then the pedal keeps going without much increase in brake power till near the end. Pads, rotors, shoes, and drums are fine. I just installed speed bleeders and flushed each line completely with new fluid. Done a couple hard brakes in reverse from 15-20 mph. Nothing has changed. One other symptom is the parking brake will not hold if the truck wants to roll forward, but it does in reverse. Is there something as simple as a pushrod adjustment on the pedal? Am I not done bleeding or flushing? I can’t find a leak anywhere and I’m starting to worry that I need a new booster. How complex a job is that? For reference, it’s the old style donut booster on the firewall, not the weird full time electronic one that showed up on some gen 2 Tacomas. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 20:58 on May 9, 2020 |
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May 9, 2020 20:56
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PainterofCrap posted:You may need to manually dial in your rear shoes with a brake spoon. If the adjusters aren't lubricated propery, they tend to get sticky and will not spin out to take up the slack. Cool, thank you. I will look up the service bulletin or see what they say on Tacoma World for that process. I’m pretty sure I got all the air out of the lines, but I guess it’s possible there’s another source of it somewhere.
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May 10, 2020 01:28
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I'm going to repaint the roof (just between the rails, everything else is fine) on my 2007 Tacoma double cab myself. The entire clear coat is gone, but only in a couple small spots has the paint flaked/abraded off to metal, and what little rust there is is only surface, maybe a couple dime-sized patches. I don't have access to a sprayer, so it'll have to be rattle canned. I'm not a fantastic painter but good enough for my own satisfaction. I really can't afford to have it done professionally. I found a local auto paint supplier that will match OEM codes, and I assume he'll have all the right sand, prep, and final finish materials as well. So my questions: Do I need to sand every bit of the surface I'll be painting down to bare metal? Does 1 can of primer, 2 cans base, 1 can clear coat sound right? I'm guessing it's about 25 sq feet. Should my primer be 2K? I plan on 2K clear, is that a good choice for longevity? I'll likely have 3 cans of base charged since that's a pint and it'll be good to have more for such as doorjamb touchups over the years.
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Aug 18, 2021 17:20
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2009 Toyota Matrix 1.8L Engine just threw a code for a bad #4 coil. 1. Should I replace all 4 right now? 2. What is the spread of quality like on the lower level OEM/Standard Replacement brands at Rock Auto like United Motor Products, Hitachi, Standard Motor Products, Beck/Arnley, Denso?
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Oct 13, 2021 16:36
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:1 - I would do all four coils at the same time (especially if they're original), unless you're real tight on cash currently. Might as well throw in new sparks while you're that far in, especially if this is one of those jobs you have to pull off the intake hose/throttle body/etc. Thanks, I'll probably do all four. I am tight on cash, but an ounce of prevention etc. Especially when you compare the RA prices ($38-69) with AutoZone ($82). Fortunately the coils are right on top of the engine, so I was considering plugs as well.
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Oct 13, 2021 17:30
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STR posted:They're dead simple on the Matrix - right up on top, don't have to remove anything else. Really, pretty much everything under the hood, at least on a first gen, is easy to get to (unless you want to re-seal the timing cover; that's gonna be a pain in the rear end on any FWD car). I'd assume the earlier 2nd gens with the 1.8 are similarly easy to work on. I've done the valve cover gasket and intake manifold gasket on ours, along with plugs, lower control arms, brakes... it's just an easy car to work on. The intake manifold gasket in particular surprised me, it was a handful of nuts and bolts (left the TB on it so I wouldn't have to remove the coolant lines from it). Took less than an hour. Oooookkay. So I got the new coils in (don’t have the right socket for plugs, will have to rectify that tomorrow night), misfire is fixed, no more code. So tell me about the intake manifold gasket. I’m getting a pulsing rough idle on a cold engine that goes away after it warms up, but there’s this sound. It’s a persistent tick-tick-tick that is quieter in park, louder in drive, at a stop. With the hood up and engine cover off, it becomes a chff-chff-chff, from somewhere right around the intake manifold. So vacuum leak of some kind, right? Location sounds like manifold. I tried a couple tiny puffs of ether around it but was too nervous to really fog it. I have some videos with good sound, I’ll see if I can upload them. Park: https://i.imgur.com/4SNA8AU.mp4 Drive: https://i.imgur.com/EmJei3S.mp4 HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Oct 19, 2021 |
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Oct 19, 2021 03:34
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VelociBacon posted:Because it's the intake mani and that car is normally aspirated you can always mist a little wd40 around where you think the leak is. If it affects the idle, you have a leak. Best to do this with the engine not hot. I’m not having any luck with this method. It’s hard to get the wd40 nozzle in a bunch of paces around the manifold and it doesn’t mist very well. I misted around the throttle body as well, no dice. All the places I can find where there may be a gasket in the system are so close together that isolating the sound is proving impossible. Is there another way to diagnose without taking things apart and looking at gaskets?
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Oct 23, 2021 22:07
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Hm, I’ve never heard of that. I have a propane torch and brake cleaner. I like the smoke machine idea but I don’t have the stuff to build one.
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Oct 24, 2021 15:18
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2009 Toyota Matrix 1.8L base Anything to be aware of out of the ordinary for a rear strut replacement? I did the front last month with no issues at all. I'll be doing the full strut/spring swap, so no dicking around with springs.
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Nov 16, 2021 20:43
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Thorn Wishes Talon posted:Sorry if this is the wrong thread for this but here it goes. Like motronic said, take the bulb into the parts store. Sylvania has a good range of budget to higher quality bulbs. Replace both, and stick the one that was still working in the new packaging in the glovebox so your mom has a backup for the next time. Next time, you also don't even have to pull the bulb to find out what's in there, you just pop the glove box and look at the package.
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Nov 17, 2021 00:22
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wesleywillis posted:
Thanks! Are the bolts and studs on the axle especially prone to failure? Either way I'll squirt them down with penetrating oil the night before just in case. Or maybe just give them a dose every day until my Rock Auto shipment shows up.
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Nov 17, 2021 16:33
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Dammit I got another cyl 4 misfire code on the 2009 Toyota Matrix. I replaced coils and plugs a little while back and the code went away until this morning. I can hear a vacuum leak that I'm pretty sure is from the intake manifold but haven't tracked it down yet. Could a damaged intake manifold gasket in the cyl 4 spot cause a brief misfire that throws a code? The car runs and idles fine except when starting cold. I'm gonna get on this tonight and use the unlit propane torch test that someone itt suggested a couple weeks back, but any additional perspective would help. I will not be letting this problem persist any longer than necessary now.
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Nov 19, 2021 21:20
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