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Duncan Doenitz posted:So I have a 2011 Ford Focus SE, 2.0L 4cyl that has been giving me several issues over the last few months, which might be related. When idling, the RPMs periodically drop, such that if it was a manual I'd be afraid of it stalling out. I recently tried to recharge the A/C (which is barely cold, even on full blast) with R-134a and the gauge showed a spike in pressure every time this happened; after emptying the can, the A/C remained weak. The last one is that when I apply the brakes, rather than a smooth decrease in speed, the car feels very jerky, and it's worse the harder you brake. Could some type of leak in one of the systems cause these issues? I'm very much not mechanically inclined, unfortunately. I have a 2007 Focus SE with the same engine, and last summer my AC compressor pulley bearings went bad. It was putting enough drag on the accessory belt that it would cause the symptoms you're describing when in drive with the AC on, and the car to stall when the AC was turned on and I shifted into neutral or park. The drag on the belt was causing the alternator to be unable to put out enough voltage to keep the car running at idle, and it was also causing issues with trying to turn the AC on. I would have to open the hood and tap the end of the pulley with a breaker bar to get it to start spinning. If you can, try taking the serpentine belt just off the compressor and spin the pulley by hand, it should be perfectly smooth but if you feel any drag on it then its time to replace the compressor.
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Jul 13, 2017 21:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:What transfer case does that Durango have? If it doesn't have a true 2WD mode it might not be happy with a mismatched set of tires. This. Is it true AWD or is it an automatic 4 wheel drive? Automatic 4 wheel drives work on detecting slippage in the front tires and engaging the 4WD mode on demand. This is why a reputable tire shop will not replace only 2 tires on a vehicle with auto 4WD. I've even noticed that it can vary by area, for instance, in Northern Michigan, discount tire won't replace a 4WD vehicle except as a set, while down in Texas, they won't bat an eye at doing it. It nearly caused my mom's 2006 explorer to eat its own transmission because the car was reading the wear on the front tires as slippage and would constantly engage and disengage 4WD.
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Mar 30, 2018 04:21
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Ok I need help finding the right illumination bulbs for my '01 Expedition 4.6L V8 Instrument Cluster. None of the bulbs listed on rockauto or any of the parts stores are right. The bulbs are soldered into the bases, and the bases are white, and are labeled as Alba, with 20 on one of the clamp wings. They aren't T5 or T3, I got a pack of those and the contacts aren't right to fit the instrument cluster PCB. I have no idea if this is the original or an after market instrument cluster. It does have a Ford Part number on the cluster (YL3F-14A608-FB), but googling has produced nothing. Pics of the bulb bases:   And a removed bulb+socket: 
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Dec 8, 2018 23:58
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STR posted:You're sure they're soldered? They should be plain old 194 or 161 bulbs, and very much appear so in the pics. Usually they're jammed into the bases pretty good (and years of heat cycling doesn't help), but not soldered unless you're GM (who used to solder the bulbs directly to the PCBs They're not 194 (ordered a 10 pack before I ever pulled the cluster) or 161 bulbs, the holes in the circuit board are about the size of T5 sockets, so I got a pack of T5 sockets with 37 lamps, but the dorman sockets don't have the double ear contact points to fit the pcb. These are the right style: https://www.speedometerbulbs.com/products/alba-instrument-cluster-bulb-t5-white-socket and you can see how the bulb is wired into the socket and the bulb itself is held in place with resin. Problem is that the 19 year old plastic on the sockets broke as soon as I touched them. And the problem with the speedometerbulbs.com is they only have 3 in stock and I need 6.
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Dec 9, 2018 19:56
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Elysium posted:So I tried to take one of my wheels off and somehow the interior threading stripped on the nut and or the lug. The lug itself is not spinning, the nut is about halfway off and spins but no longer moves forward or backward. The threads are just a circle holding it on now instead of letting it spiral off. How the gently caress do I get this thing off? I’ve basically destroyed half the nut at this point but I can’t seem to destroy it enough to get it off... Probably a nut splitter if its already damaged enough that you won't reuse it.
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Sep 26, 2019 00:53
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Ghostpilot posted:I've just replaced my fuel pump assembly in my 2003 Ford Taurus (SES / FFV, VIN: 1FAFP552X3G138465 ) and performance has substantially improved. However, I do have some rough idling that I had before and a very small trace of it at speed. You need a new PCV hose. It probably cracked due to age. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2003,taurus,3.0l+v6+dohc,1415203,exhaust+&+emission,pcv+(positive+crankcase+ventilation)+hose,11784 Double check if you have the OHV or DOHC engine. VIN doesn't show which it is. edit: forum mangled the URL.
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Oct 19, 2019 03:33
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MrOnBicycle posted:I maintained both our cars (selling both to buy the new one) and I exclusively used online part stores like Autodoc for generic stuff and more specialized stores for what I can get from Autodoc etc (or can't get a good brand of). The recycling centers here in Sweden take all fluids without question if it's obvious that it's for personal use and not some business dumping crap there. All free of charge. In the US, your warranty cannot be voided by having someone other than the dealer perform maintenance and repairs on it. They can void the warranty if damage appears to be due to a lack of maintenance or improper maintenance, so keeping all records (receipts for oil/filter, etc.) is usually advised just in case there is a dispute. US FTC Link: https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles/0138-auto-warranties-routine-maintenance
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Oct 24, 2019 16:44
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VelociBacon posted:Do most states have no automatic headlights? Here in western Canada all cars have their headlights on if the car is on, by regulation. It's not the same for taillights though and the new cars that don't dim your instruments when your lights are off are causing a lot of morons to drive around at night with no rear lights on at all. Daytime running lights are not required in any state in the US. Growing up in Michigan, you could always tell a vehicle that had be imported from Canada because it had DRLs. Of course, we were also taught in Driver's Ed to turn our headlights on during the day to make the vehicle more visible, especially for people driving white cars in winter. In the past few years, DRLs have become standard on every vehicle I've driven manufactured since 2013, but the headlight control is separate, and can (generally) be changed between automatic, on, parking and off. On my Ram work truck, I can use the settings on the entertainment display to turn the DRLs on or off, but the headlights are a separate knob left of the steering wheel. Generally autolamps for headlights was hit or miss for the last 20 years. My 1999 Explorer had automatic headlights. My 2001 Expedition which is a higher trim level doesn't. My 2007 Focus didn't. My Wife's 2016 Explorer does.
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Sep 3, 2023 04:59
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