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I'm a novice at doing car repairs but I've been working on my car more often lately. I have a 2003 VW Jetta (mk4) with the 1.8T engine. Last month I replaced the front brake pads and rotors because one of the rotors was warped. Everything went mostly fine with that and I'm set for the front brakes for now. I took a look at the rear brakes yesterday and the pads don't seem to have a lot left on them compared to the front when I changed them out, so I'm planning to replace those. Should I replace the rotors while I'm at it because the old ones are rusty? They don't seem to be warped but they're not that expensive and it'd be easy to change them while I'm working on the brakes. Here's a couple of not great pictures because my phone decided not to focus when I tried to get a close up of the pads. Most of the rust on the rotors is on the edges and front, the surfaces the pads touch are pretty clean and evenly worn:  
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Sep 11, 2017 15:57
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shy boy from chess club posted:On the rear brakes you will need the tool to wind the piston back into the caliper when you push it back in. The parts store might have it to borrow. Is doing it the way this 1A Auto video suggested going to cause problems? They put pressure on the piston with a C clamp and twist the piston in with large pliers. They tighten the clamp as it gets loose. I've got the stuff for that but would need the tool if that's a bad idea (at about 3:20 in this video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=olAYCU1s6Pg&t=200s
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Sep 11, 2017 16:25
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InitialDave posted:You can pften do those VW calipers without the clamp, even. Just turning the piston to screw it back in works. Watch out you don't damage the piston with the grip of the tool - try and only grab the outermost bit that doesn't go past the seals as it retracts. Yeah, I definitely stripped the Philips heads on retaining screws on the front rotors last month but since you don't strictly need them and the easy outs didn't work I just drilled the heads off, which seems to be a common work around. I learned about the caliper bolts on the front too, because while those didn't strip on the hex end they stripped in the thread end going back into the caliper brackets. I replaced the brackets, however, so that's fixed, and I'll just be mindful of that on the rear as well since they're probably in similar shape rust-wise. I got a cheap but not awful corded impact wrench and impact sockets and an inexpensive torque wrench (and jack stands, a floor jack, etc) in the last year or so that I've been doing more of my own work on the car, so I should be set. Thanks for the advice, I feel better prepared to get this done.
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Sep 11, 2017 19:53
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for an impact driver to use on those.
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InitialDave posted:If you're replacing the disc, you might get away with unbolting the carrier alone, and leaving the caliper attached to it. The handbrake cable might interfere with access, though, I can't remember. That looks good, I'll have to pick one up. DogonCrook posted:You can also use that rust removal jelly they have at auto parts stores and some wire brushes to get that rust off hubs and then paint them. I'll look into it, being in the northeast and parking outside it seems like rust is inevitable but the car's only got 100k miles on it so it's probably worth trying to extend the life of the parts despite its age.
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Sep 11, 2017 20:17
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My elderly father has a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the 5.7L hemi engine. A couple of weeks ago he was driving home on the interstate and apparently crossed between cones in a "sudden" work area lane and collided with some kind of barrier. He doesn't know exactly what he hit but he thinks it was one of those portable barrier things with the flashy light on top (but the light was off). Anyway, as stupid as it sounds, he didn't get out to check anything, just got back into the lane and drove 10 minutes home, pulled the car in and left it. He didn't go anywhere else until six days later which is when he found that the car has no power. The battery was too weak to do anything when he opened the door. The collision wasn't enough to set off the airbags or anything and he was able to drive it home; it appeared to have only damaged his front bumper cover but obviously there's more damage than just that. I went and looked under the hood to see if there was anything obvious because I'm not that knowledgeable about cars but figured problems caused by a collision might be easy to spot. There was a spray of droplets on the front bumper a full six days later that seemed to be clear and unscented but they managed to discolor the pants I was wearing within a couple of hours (similar to bleach, my tan pants got red/pink splotches). A couple of days later my father's pants that touched the same stuff also started spontaneously developing holes in them. I don't know what fluid might've sprayed out of the engine bay in the accident but I'm thinking maybe coolant? The expansion tank is basically empty (it's all the way down to the hose that leads to the radiator fill cap area) but there's no coolant on the ground under the vehicle so I'm guessing maybe the radiator has a break up high and he lost a bit of coolant on his drive but it settled below the hole when it was turned off at home. I don't actually know that for sure and I'm not sure if coolant would destroy clothes like that, but I don't know what would sit around on the outside of a car for a week without evaporating. It's also possible it's some de-icing stuff from the road that's getting mixed with condensation from the lovely wet weather. I mostly mention this because it seems weird. He let it sit for another week because the weather wasn't conducive to pushing it out of the garage so we could look at the engine bay further or try to jump it, but we tried it yesterday. The battery is now at about 2.9V so I figure it's probably hosed, but it still has fluid in it so I'm guessing the impact caused a short somewhere that drained the battery while it sat and didn't damage the battery itself. He was determined to try and jump it anyway so he could drive it to a repair place or the auto body place (I say repair the damage before getting a new bumper cover, he says the opposite) so we gave it a shot but while the car gets power when my car's battery is jumped to it, when he tries to start it there's just a clunk and the starter doesn't even attempt to spin. The clunk is maybe a solenoid? I don't actually know but it doesn't sound particularly good. I know there's a lot of really awful car ownership going on surrounding this whole incident but my father is really old and often won't take advice. He's also decided he can't afford to repair it right now so I figured I'd post this train wreck to see if there's some obvious steps I could take to try to diagnose what he broke when I have time to help him. I can take some pictures if it would help.
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Feb 22, 2018 02:32
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shovelbum posted:The battery is genuinely undamaged right, I've seen battery acid eat many a boilersuit like that As far as I can tell it's visibly intact on all four sides and I popped the covers to look inside last night and it seems to have plenty of fluid in it. The covers were also tight and snapped back on solidly so I doubt they let anything out. Also the liquid spray on the bumper was mostly on the passenger side where the collision happened and the battery is on the driver's side. I could disconnect it and see if my battery tender could get it back up to 12V successfully although from what I know of car batteries they don't like to be deep cycled like that and it's probably going to need a replacement. Since he didn't look, there's always a chance he crashed into and damaged a battery on whatever equipment he hit, although that stuff has really stuck around on the outside of the car.
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Feb 22, 2018 02:50
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:That 2.9v battery is dead as gently caress bro. Yeah I'd just like to try to figure out what drained it if I can. Also, would the battery voltage being too low stop the starter from running even though we were jumping it from my car?
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Feb 22, 2018 03:01
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Good info, I'll give it a shot if the rain lets up this week. If it starts then I guess getting a new battery might let him drive it to get repaired. I'd love to find the damaged wiring myself but I don't even know where to start, and it seems like it'd be difficult to diagnose when there's not enough power to begin with.
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Feb 22, 2018 03:19
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Martytoof posted:Where can I find the pinout for a Ford 2007 F150 wiper motor? I don't actually have an F150 but I want to use the wiper motor for a project and I'm having an uncomfortably difficult time finding this simple information. I gather this motor was used across a number of mid-2000 Fords. Part number is 2L2F-17D539-AD. I'd rather not buy a Haynes manual just to figure this out :[ I'm no expert on car stuff but GIS seems to find this that looks about right: https://www.justanswer.com/mercury/5v9j9-2007-mercury-grand-marquis-burnt-wiper-motor.html and Autozone says the 2007 grand marquis wiper motor also fits a lot of Fords: https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/wiper-motor/cardone-reman-wiper-motor/708998_357427_0 I'd guess it's the right connector and checking which side the offset pins are on will show if you're looking at the connector on the motor or the cable.
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Apr 4, 2018 00:33
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Handen posted:Anybody know what model of Escort this is? It's not the oldest model but it's pretty close, and there's nothing to indicate a model number at all. http://escortradarforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14367 Post 3 shows the Escort DSP which looks right, and the ad seems to have a copyright 1990. Not sure if that will help figure out what it's worth but at least you know what it is.
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Jun 30, 2018 10:35
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Karma Comedian posted:Oh hey wow neat a video I already watched about changing the passenger side instead of the driver side why didn't I think of that This guy shows both options, either reaching in blind with the restricted access on the driver side and trying to get it, or removing the wheel and 16 T25 bolts to get the fender liner out which gives a little more access: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MCvbQ1UR_k0&t=190s Alternate option around 4:20.
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Aug 14, 2018 23:49
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Coolguye posted:alright so this question is incredibly loving stupid but not for the normal reason. A squirrel bit a chunk out of the evap line from my fuel tank a couple of years ago. The mechanic had to drop the tank to put in new lines so it was not that cheap. I tried some fox urine granule style repellent for a while but it didn't seem to keep the squirrels away, really. I'd give a repellent that's supposed to work on vehicles a shot first, then look at traps. Or do both! https://smile.amazon.com/Protection-Exterminators-Choice-Mice-Repellent-Chewing-All/dp/B01DTBOV06/ edit: some folks say this spray is ineffective and suggest strong scents rodents dislike like irish spring soap and dryer sheets. Haven't tried those myself but maybe worth a shot? Shawn Woods' youtube channel is just full of mousetraps, rat traps, squirrel traps, etc. He lives in a rodent rich area so his whole youtube niche is trying out traps. Here's a couple he liked: Live catch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lHzvpsR8A4 Kill trap: Linking this one because of dead animals You can just search his videos for more squirrel stuff, there's a few in there. I've managed to park in the garage more lately so it's been less of an issue but there's a whole gamut of things to try from the repellents to traps to killing them with pellet guns, but the main thing to remember is that squirrels are absolute dicks and will wreck anything to get food or nesting materials or whatever. Rexxed fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Aug 14, 2018 |
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Aug 14, 2018 23:57
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KakerMix posted:And here we feed the squirrels peanuts, since we've started they leave our bird feeders alone. They also never damage anything of ours either though. Yeah, from what I understand killing them is just thinning the local population, it's something that will have to be repeated and won't be a guarantee of anything besides reducing the chances that a wayward rodent will take a liking to your vehicle.
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Aug 15, 2018 00:26
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Are solar panel trickle chargers actually useful in keeping a car battery topped off if it's the winter and it doesn't get started for a few weeks? There's a few on Amazon with good reviews but most seem to be left hooked up to boats and trailers. I guess the main reason I'm skeptical is because they supposedly charge the car battery through the cigarette lighter socket, but I'm pretty sure mine turns off when the car is off so it wouldn't be charging anything. I guess I could hook it to the battery posts but that leaves the unit outside on the hood or something. I'm mostly familiar with my Battery Tender which is great but needs 120V AC. I was looking at something inexpensive like this if it would actually do the job: https://smile.amazon.com/SUNER-POWER-Battery-Charger-Maintainer/dp/B07J1JJXXZ/
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Jan 11, 2019 00:25
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Motronic posted:You're asking two different questions. Awesome, I guess I was just suspicious of the product due to the accessory power thing, but as long as it works to keep a charge I'm sure I can figure it out. Thanks!
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Jan 11, 2019 01:54
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I'm trying to get my Subaru fixed up so I can drive it and when the divorce goes through we can just sell our Camry that we still owe on rather than deal with refinancing and getting it under one person's name. Colorado requires a rebuilt car to have "Rebuilt from salvage" or something like that stamped in the B-Pillar inside the driver's doorway, who would I go to about getting that done? I have no idea what's involved in stamping metal like that, is there a handy dandy HF tool I could use for that rather than having to get it towed to a shop? I'm hoping I can get a mobile glass installation place to do the windshield so I don't have to get it towed to a glass shop, I can do everything else aside from putting a tire on the new rim (mount control arm, reposition quarter panel, replace burnt out dash lightbulbs). Tows are loving expensive. I'll presumably have to get it towed to the state patrol inspection site since I don't have a friend with a trailer, but that's one (two?) tows rather than five or six. I don't know all the answers but this guy briefly goes over the basics of Colorado rebuilt from salvage stuff in the first three minutes of this video. He mentions you may be able to get a transportation permit to get the car on the road for one day from the DMV although he's got a trailer. He rebuilds cars from salvage auctions fairly often: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7MAVAMcLgs
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May 5, 2019 00:34
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Elysium posted:What if I call AAA and have them tow it? I get 100 miles right? That depends on the level of AAA membership but it's an option. https://midatlantic.aaa.com/non-member/plans
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Jun 20, 2019 04:24
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Is there a better company or way to sell a car quickly than something like Carvana or CarMax or WeBuyAnyCar? A relative is trying to sell a car before they have to pay another year of registration and they don't want to deal with hoping they can sell it quickly on craigslist or whatever. The car in question is a 2012 Prius so all three of the above sites seem interested in the 7500-8k range which is less than a private sale but they're just looking to make the car go fast.
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Oct 20, 2019 04:34
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I totally understand the appeal of a low-hassle sale, but does your relative live near a state border, or is the registration non-transferable or something? My assumption is the remaining value of registration is to a large extent going to be baked in to a car's value. He's just not wanting to pay for the next quarter of insurance and registration at the DMV. He should've sold it two years ago when the original owner died but just didn't and doesn't want to spend any more on it.
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Oct 20, 2019 05:18
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Motronic posted:Based on the apparent age/style and the shift pattern I'm gonna say OG beetle. Stock was threaded but many aftermarket shifters used grub screws. Yeah, searching for that shows one in a picture on this thread indicating it's an EMPI shift knob (presumably for a beetle): https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1932877
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Jan 20, 2020 07:29
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Shooting Blanks posted:drat, figured as much. Is a scrap yard the best way to dispose of it then? I'd prefer to recycle the thing in general, even if I don't get anything back, than just throw it away. A lot of auto parts stores will take car parts for recycling, I'd just call and ask them first to be sure.
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Feb 6, 2020 10:41
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punk rebel ecks posted:If my car says it needs maintenance on something every year or 10,000 miles, but I've only driven 5,000 miles for the year, can I "delay" the maintenance until I reach the 10,000 mile mark since my car gets light use? To some degree, yes. There are things that just wear over time that you should check. I also don't drive a ton, and I make sure to check my tire pressure, fluid levels (especially coolant and oil), brakes, and belts for wear. Rubber and plastic can get more brittle over time no matter how much it's used. I just got a new battery due to mine slowly dying over the last year or so but it was almost seven years old and finally died when I had the flu and didn't drive it for two weeks.
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Feb 8, 2020 00:30
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I used a 3M drill powered kit a few years back and it did a great job. Still have the gallery on imgur: https://imgur.com/a/U4ZTn. It still looks good although I could've done more with the finer grits to get rid of some of the scratches from the heavier grit. The only bad part was the polishing compound flying all over the place. If I had expected it I'd have used some newspaper to mask the area just to catch it. I used this sealer afterwards but I've only reapplied it a couple of times so I'm not sure I'm using it right: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051PJWQW/
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May 25, 2020 23:05
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spankmeister posted:Speaking of detailing. I have these tiny black specks of tree sap or something on my car. Anyone have a hot tip to get rid of them? If it's sticky tree sap, rubbing it with hand sanitizer seems to loosen it up due to being an alcohol gel. The sap I used this trick on was still semitransparent, though.
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Jun 13, 2020 00:11
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My old man has a lead foot and he's owned a bunch of radar detectors over the years. Usually Escort or passport ones until maybe 10 years ago. He's in his 80s and he's thinking about buying this: https://store.valentine1.com/Store/item.asp?i=20020 I'm not sure it's worth $500 when there's Waze and other crowd source reporting apps, plus it seems like you'd have to prevent a couple of expensive tickets for it to be worth the price. Does anyone still use radar detectors and are there known good ones that aren't $500 I could point him to looking at if he insists on getting one?
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Jun 22, 2020 23:41
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StormDrain posted:I don't think an 80 yr old man should be trying to use apps and speeding. I agree, and he may be 85 by the time it's safe to leave the house again anyway, but I'd like to know more about radar detectors.
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Jun 23, 2020 00:19
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lowcrabdiet posted:Stupid question: Most of those pneumatic connections make you push in the plastic ring to release the internal grabber bit so you can pull out the hose. Some can be difficult because maybe the grabber doesn't let go as much as it should.
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Jul 28, 2020 08:28
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GOD IS BED posted:Get a battery tender solar panel and the adaptor plug for either the cigarette lighter/power port or the OBDII port. Put the solar panel on the dash, plug in the cable, enjoy a maintained battery with no external power. I did this when my battery was getting weak a couple of years ago and it worked great. The little solar panel kept it topped up despite driving it infrequently. I did eventually have to get a new battery but it was because it was 7 years old and had suffered through an alternator failure and getting low a few times already.
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Nov 7, 2020 01:58
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Charles posted:Does it really work inside the glass? Yeah they work inside glass. Glass will cut down UV but not visible light, generally. I just put mine up on the dash when I parked it in the driveway.
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Nov 8, 2020 20:41
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Krakkles posted:How much does mounting a backup camera off center screw things up, and if I have to, does it matter which direction? I'm looking to add one to a Jeep Cherokee in this region: Many factory provided backup cameras are off center to begin with, so you should be fine. I mounted one similar to the first one you linked on a prius that had a flat plastic panel next to the trunk handle to install it on (it was a factory option so the spot was there but not filled). When mounted, it was turned slightly towards the center, just a couple of degrees, but it made the bumper visible at the bottom of the screen inside the car and seemed as even as it could be given the distortion from the lens. Ultimately running the cable inside the car is the longer part of the process since you want to pop off trim panels and run it along with the existing cables going from the trunk to the dashboard.
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Jan 18, 2021 06:17
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Outrail posted:Realistically how often should we be changing the battery anyway? The internet seems to think 3-5 years but I'm sure my current one is like 6-7 years and doesn't seem to have issues. Well, it does seem to turn over once or twice more than it should but always starts and hasn't needed a jump yet. It depends a lot on the environment and use, my last one lasted eight or nine years but I think three to five is more common in very hot or cold areas.
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Feb 8, 2021 08:06
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Eric the car guy did a video installing a catalytic converter guard on his '04 honda element: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fbce8m2KykU Like with most theft deterrents the goal is to make it too much trouble to bother and not just go find another car. The company's product he uses in the video only seems to make their cat security products for Priuses and handful of other cars.
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Feb 25, 2021 11:24
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I have a 2003 VW Jetta with a 1.8t motor. I'm trying to figure out a fuel issue that I suspect is the fuel pump, but this post is not about that. While taking a look at the fuel pressure regulator I realized this hose was loose on the engine. Between the haynes manual and google it appears to be the crankcase breather which probably explains all the grime around it. The lower hose is soft and I haven't tried to take that ear clamp off yet. Here's what I was just looking at (sorry it's dark):  They still line up perfectly but the area's grimey as you can see (night sight photo turned out better):  Engine bay just for reference:  I assume that after taking that clamp off there'll be something hard inside the upper hose that the flange on the lower hose should be sealed into by the clamp. After cleaning the area of the grime will it be enough to remove the clamp, reseat the hose, and re-clamp it? Should I buy a replacement if the existing one isn't a problem as far as I'm aware? Also, can I replace the ear clamp with a more normal hose clamp? I assume so since that's what I've been seeing on youtube but I just want to be sure based on goon consensus best practices. I don't have any spare ear clamps but I do have a box of hose clamps that probably have one that fits. It's a 2003 and it just passed 108k miles. I expect to keep it for a few more years so while I don't want to sink a ton of money into it, I also don't want to totally half-rear end everything. As an aside, but where does that Y on the upper tube go to? The turbo? I'm just trying to get a handle on what I'm looking at more than anything and most of the diagrams online aren't well labeled or clear. I'm a newbie at fixing car stuff and haven't done much beyond basic repairs like replacing the alternator and brakes and rotors and stuff. I didn't even really know what the crankcase breather did before I looked it up just now, although I've heard the term before.
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May 20, 2021 02:54
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2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee. My dad drove like 30 miles yesterday and I noticed when he got back this bracket has basically rusted itself 99% off. I don't know much about his jeep so is this safe to drive to a mechanic without this thing? I'm sure they'll be looking to replace a lot of the rusty parts here.
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Jul 1, 2021 20:54
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I'll poke around at it, I know that it's pretty rusty but didn't think it was in that bad shape until it started coming apart. I probably live within 100 miles of you motronic (I'm just over the delaware in NJ) so I'm sure you're spot on.
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Jul 1, 2021 21:12
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Inner Light posted:That's pretty sad for an '08 to be so far gone. Looks like Jeep had particularly bad rustproofing in that era. I have a German car from a few years later in the rust belt, parked outside a lot of the time, and it's nowhere near as bad. Yeah it's pretty crazy. He's not the first owner but I think he got it in 2013 and it's been in the garage 99% of the time. He doesn't drive it regularly since he's in his 80s.
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Jul 1, 2021 21:39
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Chad Sexington posted:This is a hail mary but It's got lead acid batteries in it, not lipos, so it probably won't catch fire. I'm guessing it just wants to be plugged back into its charger. The warning buzzer seems to be internal so you'd have to take it apart to get to any of that or disconnect the batteries it looks like: https://www.centurytool.net/ES1224_Truck_PAC_3200_Peak_Amp_12_24_Volt_Jump_Starter_s/156.htm You could look for the ac charger but it's probably plugged into the wall in his garage or something where the jump box should be, it's like a 12V 1.5A wall wart according to what I see online. Maybe leave it in front of their front door.
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Aug 12, 2021 20:30
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Inner Light posted:That stuff makes me paranoid, should I be bringing a multimeter to look for parasitic drain the next time I buy a used car? seems like there is zero way of knowing you’re buying an electrical lemon in that respect without literally measuring it before purchase, and a big liability if you choose not to. Everyone should have a multimeter, even a $15-20 one will measure current and voltage as well as check continuity. Those are all super helpful functions for lots of things. However, you may have trouble being able weed out weird electrical problems with a used car quickly enough with a multimeter to make an informed decision because they're often not that obvious. As mentioned, most modern cars continue to draw current for a while (and it can be different amounts of time) after being turned off before the electronics go to sleep, at which point they'll still use a little bit. Even opening the door can wake things back up. For example, my car primes the fuel pump when the driver's door is opened. Will a seller let you sit with a multimeter hooked up under the hood for half an hour or something? Maybe, but also maybe not. It also might not help find anything. A lot of the times people worry about electrical gremlins ends up being that they want there to be a problem that explains their battery not holding up even though it's been 3-8 years since they last replaced it. They tend to go through an extended period of trying anything other than a new battery before finally having to get one. It's understandable because batteries are usually over $100, but often it's just time for a new one. Alternators can also go bad and not charge the battery properly while the car is running and that's one you can often check with a multimeter while the car is running although it's not foolproof. When my alternator last died I was lucky that the bearing started making noise before I started getting voltage warnings on the dash so I was able to determine the issue pretty quickly. Parasitic draw situations tend to be less common than a battery and/or alternator just wearing out, and a lot of the ones I see on YouTube are due to wires getting their insulation rubbed off, chewed by rodents, or melted and are touching together, relays going bad, electronics going bad (like capacitor problems in an control module), or other corrosion related problems. It's not always that easy to find just due to wiring being all over the place.
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Mar 28, 2022 01:33
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Jippa posted:I am trying to help my dad with his car via email. Probably running boards, possibly but less likely rock sliders.
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Jul 26, 2022 08:50
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tangy yet delightful posted:2008 Honda Ridgeline - P0456 Powertrain Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak, check fuel cap, piping, etc) The way the evap system works is that it captures gasoline that evaporates from your gas tank in a canister, then feeds it up into the intake when it's running to burn the gas instead of letting it go out to the atmosphere. If there's a leak in the evap system usually the next step is some kind of leak testing with a smoke machine. Unless you want to do it yourself it's likely that a mechanic will need to do it. I smoke tested my own and it turned out mice had bitten some holes in the line between the top of the gas tank and the evap system charcoal canister. I couldn't really reach the spots I needed to get to for a replacement of that line myself so I had a mechanic do it. The system will self test by applying a low amount of pressure to itself and making sure that pressure doesn't fall. It can fail due to the valve not working right, holes, or a number of other issues. This is why it tends to be a job where putting some smoke in through the schrader valve in the engine and then looking for where smoke is leaking out is useful. I used a kit like this with a homebrew smoke machine but you need to be careful since it's not supposed to be over 1 PSI. https://smile.amazon.com/Service-Adapter-Adaptor-Connector-Removal/dp/B072NGFYZG
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Aug 1, 2022 23:52
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