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2000 Toyota Estima V6 (1MZFE), Auto afaik it uses the Camry drivetrain Problem: Overdrive won't come on Closest I've found online was this: https://www.justanswer.com/toyota/1l2fk-2000-toyota-camry-husband-turned-overdrive.html Mine's slightly different in that I have no OD OFF lighting up on the dash whether I press the OD button or not. I can see that it's there, it just never lights. It's also not cold where I am - over 23°C (73F) almost every day. The engine temp gauge rises to the middle and stays there, equally between hot and cold which I assume represents normal temp. On the page I linked to above, the mechanic Glenn recommends doing a "manual shift test" as per the document here: https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/advautoca/2008-11-22_193550_MANUAL_SHIFT_TEST.pdf but I don't know where the illustration is referencing to do that disconnection. Any thoughts? Seems like it could be mechanical or solenoid related, but then why won't the OD OFF dash indicator ever light up? Could it also be a fuse/relay problem? Any help appreciated! E: and yeah it's not just a dead lamp in the dash. I get the normal 3 gears just fine (1st gear whines like reverse used to on cars back in the 90s though) and whether the OD button is depressed or not, it gives the same revs in 3rd gear at 100km/hr (62mph). That's the speed limit where I live. simplefish fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 21:10
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Javid posted:I just fought this - in a completely different vehicle, to be clear - so I'll take a swat here since nobody else has. I would feel comfortable giving it a go but i am living in said van in a field next to a beach so I'm a bit limited in terms of tools. Plus being a Japan-only model there's no Haynes or other English documentation, so I'm gambling on it basically being a Camry. However, having had some work done on it already, it'll cost a bomb to do anything to - mechanics are very expensive round here. So I'd like to try what I can before having to pull the trigger on that. I had a look at the fuses: nothing there seems to suggest it's for the transmission, but there does seem to be something missing from in the box. I'll take pictures and upload soon. Thanks for the reply
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Mar 13, 2019 06:52
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KakerMix posted:What's the chassis code for your Estima? Punch it in here: Thanks! I didn't know about that, I'll give it a try
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Mar 13, 2019 22:21
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KakerMix posted:What's the chassis code for your Estima? Punch it in here: Nothing found for either my frame number or VIN, unfortunately. My fuses and relays look like this: http://i65.tinypic.com/9q9ohe.jpg But according to the inside of the lid, it should instead look like this: http://i63.tinypic.com/4t0qxy.jpg What I'm guessing has happened is that the fuse box cover is off a different model with the same engine. Like there's no 7.5A up in the top left corner, but there is a 7.5A next to the two "Spare" slots. Still that huge gap on the left and the fact that there are fewer relays than the box lid says there should be has me slightly concerned. Next time I get a chance I think I'm going to do an emergency stop, check I have ABS Also, does anyone know where to look for what the diagram's referencing here, so I can do the shift test? https://www.justanswer.com/uploads/advautoca/2008-11-22_193550_MANUAL_SHIFT_TEST.pdf simplefish fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Mar 21, 2019 |
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Mar 21, 2019 23:28
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simplefish posted:
Turns out there was a relay missing, and a 15A fuse. I went to a scrapyard and took a look at another car that was crash damaged (so I was pretty sure the fuses would be right as it was most likely running at the time it got written off) and saw the bottom-left gap had a relay in it. I'll plug em in and update the thread with what happens, if anything - I know you guys like endings to stories. Any ideas on the diagram on the pdf though? simplefish fucked around with this message at 11:01 on Apr 3, 2019 |
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Apr 3, 2019 10:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:The PDF opens as blank for me at least Ah dammit, it works for me. Would someone else mind trying please?
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Apr 4, 2019 08:24
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Also my steering wheel vibrates a lot above about 55mph It has new front shocks but I'm pretty sure the steering bushings were knackered several owners ago. I think that's the issue (99% certain), but googling seems to say worn steering bushings causing steering wheel vibration is a *low* speed issue. Is that meaning "only low speed" or "low speed and above"?
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Apr 4, 2019 08:27
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MrOnBicycle posted:Tyres? Geoj posted:Or alignment, ball joints, shocks, wheel(s) out of balance, etc. Well, tomorrow I'm getting 4 new corners as they're nearly not road legal, and the rear left has cords showing. The new rubber comes with a balancing so hopefully that'll get ruled out by fixing it or not. The front shocks I got were new, so they should be fine, but there is a suspiciously suspension-y creak if I take a left hander at speed downhill. This is a front wheel drive car. But I had a FWD car in the past where it'd creak much more even after rebuilding the entire corner from the halfshaft out (hit a kerb at speed, no body damage). I'll update with what happens or not
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Apr 5, 2019 09:41
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simplefish posted:Nothing found for either my frame number or VIN, unfortunately. The eagle-eyed among you will have noticed the fuse box lid has a square saying VSC and 40A and a space in the real fuse box. VSC is apparently to do with measuring vehicle speed, who knew? I got my mitts on a fuse and now there is an "ABS" light that comes on when I ready the ignition before cranking it. It goes off as it should, it's just new, that's all. I did try to test my ABS, and while it wasn't the familiar pedal shaking, the van did seem to get its braking more-less-more-less maybe in 0.3-0.5s each part of the cycle so I assumed it was working and was just crap on that model. I'll of course check ABS again when I can but it passed the annual brake test it needs to stay road legal before I put that fuse in, so I was never in too much danger, I suppose. Still no Overdrive Off light on the dash, and no O/D kicking in, whether or not O/D button is pressed on or off, so the VSC fuse didn't fix that sadly simplefish fucked around with this message at 09:52 on Apr 5, 2019 |
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Apr 5, 2019 09:48
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How much better are more expensive tyres? I was offered 4x Daytons for equivalent 345 USD There was also the of option 4x Firestones for equivalent 445 USD Both prices fitted, balanced, and inclusive of tax. I don't drive hard, it's a 20 year old minivan, and the maximum legal speed in this entire country is 60mph. As my family always could only afford budget tyres and sometimes only 2nd hand tyres growing up, I went for the Daytons, as I've never been in a car and thought "I wish it had different tyres" - and I'm fine with that choice - but I'm wondering if what was described to me as a "Tier 2" tyre is really $25 better than a "Tier 4" tyre Has anyone used Firestones and were they that much better on a poo poo car driving slowly? simplefish fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Apr 6, 2019 |
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Apr 6, 2019 05:08
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MrOnBicycle posted:Tyres? Geoj posted:Or alignment, ball joints, shocks, wheel(s) out of balance, etc. Yup, after getting new tyres vibration is practically nil. Krakkles posted:There's certainly a lower limit below which tires suck, but you're above that limit with either of these. Dayton are made by Firestone, and thus, without direct model numbers, I'd be hard pressed to claim that one or the other is better. Deteriorata posted:Price only roughly correlates with quality. Different tires work better on different cars, as well. Thanks guys. The tyres are great - it was pissing down with rain today. Yesterday on the old very worn tyres I was aquaplaning; today, nothing of the sort despite the rain being heavier. Deteriorata, regarding what counts as "really cheap", what would you say? And if price only roughly correlates with quality, but it's worth spending the money for decent quality, is there a crossover point? Krakkles, I guess that's what you were saying with "There's certainly a lower limit below which tires suck, but you're above that limit with either of these", but "not going to observe any difference in particular on a minivan which isn't driven hard" goes against Deteriorata. For my part, as I said, I'm happy with what I've got. I'm not trying to start an argument, just understand your different points of view, as my experience of tyres is very limited. I was thinking about those "fuel save" tyres but I figure if they really worked that well, governments would be mandating them as a really easy way (that doesn't cost the government anything, though it might cost the consumer) to meet those environmental targets most of the world has set. I was also pretty confident that whatever I got wouldn't be unsafe, since they surely have to meet government standards, which I can't imagine being super lax with all the other stuff they legislate for like airbags and other safety features. So another question to both of you, or anyone else, since you both mention a lower end being rubbish: Are there any brands that you would never touch? I saw Triangle and Goodride and stuff that was cheap, but honestly those Daytons were the cheapest I could find after phoning round lots of garages.
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Apr 7, 2019 09:30
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Holy gently caress why do D2R headlights exist, they're so loving expensive
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Apr 8, 2019 01:31
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My battery has been run really rough and hard (heyooo camping!) and I still get over 12.5 out of it reliably at rest, after a good drive I shouldn't know that a battery will still start my engine 11.8V but I do! This is far from the first time I have run my battery that low. I've seen down to like 10.8V before If, after all that, mine is doing better than your 12.1, then yeesh. Glad you figured it out and fixed it simplefish fucked around with this message at 12:57 on Apr 15, 2019 |
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Apr 15, 2019 12:49
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I really need to figure out my overdrive. I'm going 12.5l/100km (22.6mpg/18.8USmpg) That has been mostly open road driving too 
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Apr 15, 2019 21:44
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zaepg posted:I'm trying to understand logistics of having a transmission with first gear if I can't use the dang thing without shifting into 2nd gear on 25mph speed limits. I don't understand. The entire point of 1st gear is that it gets you moving from a standstill without stalling the engine. If your car is not stationary, you should not be in 1st gear. So yeah, you may find stop->N->1st a bitch but that's working exactly how it was designed to. If your car has more power than it needs or a very short first gear or you're driving in snow, try taking off in 2nd gear, see if that works for you.
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Apr 23, 2019 21:05
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BangersInMyKnickers posted:The old mechanic she was using was taking her for a ride and doing a full flush/change like every 15k which pissed me off when I found out, but probably helped in this case due to dumb luck. Just a quick question, but oil change is every 10,000km/6000 miles or so, right? And you change the filter when you change the oil? Or do you mean changing transmission fluid/gearbox oil and power steering fluid and brake fluid as well?
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Apr 28, 2019 04:14
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STR posted:My own question, and probably pretty specific, at least to 2nd gen Avalons. I have the same engine, same gearbox, so Wikipedia tells me (different car though, 2000 Toyota Estima). But unfortunately I am not very good with cars so I don't think I can be of much help. You say the tach sticks, I'm guessing from what you say you can hear the revs increasing and it's just the needle? My gearbox can hang if I switch from D to 2 when I want some engine braking down a hill (a good couple of seconds before it changes and then the next change back to D will be really delayed too) which I know isn't your issue but it's the closest I can think of that I've experienced. As you are far more knowledgeable than me can I ask what you'd do if your overdrive shat the bed and died? I posted before a link to a document describing a shift test but had no idea were to look on the car. The Estima was Japan-only, so getting documentation in English is a real nightmare. I'm trying to cobble together what I can from Camry manuals with the same drivetrain, but stuff like the fuse panels are located and laid out completely differently Also I didn't know cluster diagnostics were a thing, but it makes sense. How would you do one on your Avalon, I'd like to try on my Estima? simplefish fucked around with this message at 11:04 on May 3, 2019 |
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May 3, 2019 11:02
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Would something like this work? https://www.toolstation.com/letter-number-punch-set/p19757 Just bash em with a big hammer Also are there no exceptions for having the vehicle on the road if you're on your way to get it tested or fixed? If a cop pulled you over are they allowed to use discresion in your jurisdiction?
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May 5, 2019 00:02
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Be careful of adding engine cleaners. Sometimes oil gunk is what's making bits still seal that otherwise wouldn't. It's why sometimes you hear of people moving a grade of oil thicker as engines get age on them. This is just what I've heard, not firsthand experience
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May 5, 2019 14:29
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This is my first Automatic car (2000 Toyota Estima) and I checked the level of ATF today. It's waaay over even the hot level notches on the dipstick while the engine's stone cold. Is this loving my gearbox up? Could it be related to the whine in 1st Gear or why my overdrive isn't working? Is it the sort of thing that can be drained easily and should I worry about draining it?
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May 11, 2019 02:52
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STR posted:You're supposed to check ATF with the engine running, warm, and after running it through each gear position (don't have to drive it, just put it in each position for 5-10 seconds from park to 1st, repeat back to park) immediately before checking it. The level will drop considerably. Autoexec.bat posted:Yeah the trans will show super high when the car's not running, it happens due to fluids running down into the pan that are normally elsewhere when it is running My usual technique is to drive it for 5 minutes and check in park/neutral. Thanks guys, I got a bit confused by the ATF dipstick, then. It has 2 pairs of what I assume are high/low level notches, the lower marked "COOL" and the upper marked "HOT". I thought cool meant engine off. In entirely unrelated news I went over a very harsh cattle grid on the brow of a hill, and now for part of the rev range it sounds like a tractor. So we'll see if that settles down after a few miles of nice flat road and gentle driving.
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May 11, 2019 22:03
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Motronic posted:Seriously. Do not turn the car back on before you have checked the oil. brand engager posted:Might wanna check the underside for new holes that could be letting the car's precious dipping sauces out. Cheers guys, I had stopped driving like a minute after the noise. I rolled it down to a flattish part in neutral, checked the oil, level fine, started up and no tractor noise. I think it was a combination of going a steep uphill very slowly (5mph at most), massive vibration, more slow uphill that maybe starved it? Idk. It was only a narrow window of revs that did it too. The engine has a reputation for being poo poo at moving oil round it anyway especially with how badly this one's been treated and having 275xxx km on it
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May 12, 2019 01:09
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Maybe take the time needed to swap the stands out from under your scooby to the truck ones you have there?
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May 16, 2019 06:56
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Welp, the tractor noise has come back and is more frequent now on my Toyota Estima (2000). Tractor doesn't quite describe it properly, it's more like the Land Rover Discovery TD5 that I used to have. Problem is the 1MZ-FE is supposed to be a 6 cylinder petrol, nit a 5 cylinder diesel. I've narrowed down the conditions: usually if I'm going slowly, particularly pulling away from a junction or up a hill. I believe it's more likely to occur if I've been driving at low speed for a few minutes beforehand - it doesn't happen when I enter town, just once I've been there a while. Only happens in a small rev range or speed range in first gear Oil level still fine, and I'm no expert on oil but it looks clearish-brown not sludgeish-black on the dipstick. Any ideas?
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May 18, 2019 05:54
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simplefish posted:Welp, the tractor noise has come back and is more frequent now on my Toyota Estima (2000). Tractor doesn't quite describe it properly, it's more like the Land Rover Discovery TD5 that I used to have. Problem is the 1MZ-FE is supposed to be a 6 cylinder petrol, nit a 5 cylinder diesel. spankmeister posted:Get a scan tool and look at misfire data, narrow it down to which cylinder. Then diagnose that cylinder. Is there spark? Is there fuel? Is there compression? Thanks, I don't think it's a misfire though (althoygh I'll readily admit I'm quite unsure what one woukd sound like), and wouldn't that be strange to be happening in the very specific circumstances I described?
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May 19, 2019 03:11
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Update on 2000 Toyota Estima with 1MZ-FE The tractor noise got really bad today I was driving along an old forestry logging gravel track so lots of slow driving (10km/hr max), bumps, and hills. It got tractory towards the end of the track, maybe 4km each way. The speed doesn't seem to matter, it was 1250rpm. At the end of the track I pulled up somewhere level, shifted into neutral, and went through the whole rev range - no tractor noise. Setting off in gear - tractor noise back again at aeound 1250rpm. Not above 1500 for certain, not under 1000 for certain. Turned onto the main road and got up to speed, slight downhill this time, massive tractor noise at like 2800rpm, which is a new one. Eased off the accelerator, held it under 2000rpm for like a minute, tractor noise gone for rest of journey So it's after slow driving, only when there's load on the engine that there's a noise like an old diesel engine, only for a narrow RPM band. I'm thinking oil not being moved around like it should? But that's a total guess. simplefish fucked around with this message at 06:03 on May 21, 2019 |
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May 21, 2019 05:52
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STR posted:That really sounds like a broken flex pipe or a pipe that's broken loose from an exhaust manifold. Thanks, I'll take a look
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May 21, 2019 09:24
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Beach Bum posted:If you suffer from an engaged piston for more than four hours, see a mechanic Calliper? I hardly know her!
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May 26, 2019 02:41
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tactlessbastard posted:Fire department took their axes and crowbars to the hood so probably not That's what happens when you call a fire truck to your truck fire
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May 28, 2019 02:26
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I don't know how American insurance works, but where I am if you or someone you hit aren't claiming against your policy, you don't have to. However if at renewal they ask something like "have you ever set a truck on fire? If so, when?" then I think legally you have to say.
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May 28, 2019 12:57
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Be forewarned, I have no idea how it could turn out, but headlight restorer paste and a dremmel with a sponge pad?
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Jun 17, 2019 09:22
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Mephiston posted:I will give that a try, thanks. I'm going to be paranoid the whole time about scratching the glass with the steel wool, though. To clean shower glass I use even parts white vinegar to washing up liquid and a pair of old tights to scrub, you could try that
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Jun 18, 2019 00:11
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Not related to your enquiry but CHECK THE SUNROOF DOESN'T LEAK amazing the number of people who buy old cars and don't bring a bottle of water to pour on the roof and around the gutters. Goes double if you're going to be living in it.
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Jun 18, 2019 14:53
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Forget idea of being able to wrench on what you live in, if it involves a) taking parts off to reach other parts, or b) a jack You'll likely be on campsites, and that's usually soft ground or at best gravel. Have fun lying under your van on that. Don't get under your car if the ground is at all soft or unstable. Of course you could park in a shop's carpark but again, you're asking to get a visit from the police or for someone to run your legs over Both campsites and carparks don't take kindly to people stripping bodywork or bits of engine gubbins into a pile while they track down a fault. I can change oil and filter, but I couldn't do it if I didn't have my own space or the right space to actually do the work
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Jun 18, 2019 16:30
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Can you change when you buy it to the next morning (when you'd be going to the DMV anyway)? and instead of meeting behind a 7-11 or whatever could the seller meet you in the DMV parking lot? That way you can walk straight in and sort out paperwork without having to move the car, and the morning gives you the full day to smooth out any unexpected issues/general slowness the DMV may have And of course, can you bring someone with you to drive one of the 2 cars you'll have home?
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Jun 20, 2019 17:44
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Someone with more experience with automatics: Car is a 2000 Toyota with 173,000 miles and a poo poo service history I brought the car to a halt at a red light. The car juddered while stopped in D I shifted into N, juddering ceased I shifted back into D, juddering started again but milder. As I took off from the light, car was lurching despite constant accelerator pedal After 100 or so yards it wasn't lurching, but I pulled straight over anyway and am now posting this. I don't think I heard the engine was hunting for revs, so I'm wondering if it's a gearbox/whatever it's called on an auto problem maybe? This is my first automatic car, really not sure what's up. It's had a first gear whine and overdrive doesn't work since ever I bought it
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Jun 22, 2019 02:57
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Autoexec.bat posted:I would guess bad solenoid somewhere, maybe low trans pressure. Have you checked your fluid level? (Trans fluid has to be checked warm, after either a short drive or going through the gears a few times with the engine still running.) As for the overdrive it might be the trans but in Toyota of that vintage if the temp sensor isn't detecting the car is warm it won't allow it into overdrive. Thanks for the reply I checked the ATF fluid before, I'll have another look The overdrive, the engine gets up to temperature and the gauge in the dash rises and stays to the middle of its travel. Woukd there be a different sensor on the transmission?
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Jun 22, 2019 23:15
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Gue
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Jul 2, 2019 04:31
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STR posted:[Re: 2000 Estima with 1MZFE] I just ordered one of those bluetooth OBD2 ELM327 things, should arrive in a few days > Does anyone own one similar? And have recommendations for an Android app to use it with? The other two problems ("lurching revs after driving at slow speeds" and "bad juju engine noises uphill/pulling away from a stop, and more gas = more noise but not really more power") have been getting worse. Over a particularly winding mountain road the engine was doing its typical noise/power thing, but then...
I'll update with OBD2 reading when I get the thing - I don't really have a question on that for now, just by way of update. Other info: Oil pressure light was never on. Checked ATF while engine hot immediately after stopping, still above both pairs of notches (there's a Hot and a Cold pair on the ATF dipstick). > Therefore, ATF is overfull, right? > Is this a serious problem? I don't know how to drain it and don't have axle stands or a catch pan or even a driveway, so it'd probably mean taking it in somewhere. > Is there a colour reference I can check the ATF fluid against? Checked oil when cold, oil fine. Browny-semiclear, in between two dipstick notches Second question: I'm coming up to the 10,000km oil change - I've been offered 10W30 (mineral) instead of the 10W40 (synthetic) I was expecting. >Should I go with the 10W30? I know the 1MZ-FE gums up and I've seen thinner oils suggested on auto forums as the engine gets older But then I've also read the rings get worn as it gets older and a thicker oil recommended on similar forums. If it changes things, the engine's at 280,000km, been abused with probably god knows how many missed oil changes - it had no service history. Think rental-level turnover but a string of young private owners, none of whom probably bothered to spend on servicing. I myself am planning to sell it on in 4-6months (for cheap, just like I bought it cheap - it'll be sold-as-seen without any promises beyond being currently running. I'm not looking to pull the wool over anyone's eyes) Unlikely to put more than another 5000km on it in the meantime. Is there any work that I should/shouldn't consider doing based on this timeframe? 3rd Issue: Overdrive Haha let's leave this for now, there are more pressing problems simplefish fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jul 3, 2019 |
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Jul 3, 2019 02:58
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STR posted:Torque for Android. Thanks for the app recommendation I can't remember if it was running, I think so but I'll recheck about the ATF Coasting downhill wasn't about saving gas, I was coasting to try to reduce strain on the engine since putting load on it was what brought the Check Engine light on. I figured the less the engine was involved the kinder I was being to it. And wouldn't that make it less likely to stall? By the way, I saw you have a 1MZFE too, any thoughts on the oil grade?
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Jul 3, 2019 06:10
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