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Greetings ya'll. I'm changing the timing belt on my 05 Civic and I've been stuck on the crank pulley bolt all day now. We've hit it with liquid wrench, we've torched it, I've broken a socket wrench cranking on it with a breaking bar, I've used an impact wrench long enough to wallow out a socket, I've used a jack to crank on a bigass wrench, and the bastard will not budge. Any suggestions?
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May 2, 2015 20:45
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 09:11 |
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Geoj posted:Breaker bar with an impact socket and a big piece of pipe, That is my next step, I feel like I've spent all drat day borrowing my wife's car to go back to the store for 'one more tool!' Fucknag posted:They do make a tool that slots into the pulley to hold it still if that's the case. The pulley and engine are not moving, I'm using one of those tools and another wrench to lock it in place against the a arm.
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May 2, 2015 20:59
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I got it! The final effective method was a little bit of the jack method, then a little bit of chemical action, come back and repeat thirty minutes later. I think the real clincher was when I started using a screwdriver as a shim between the head of the socket and that bit of frame running horizontally right above it. That kept the first three sweeps of the jack lift from being wasted 'lifting' the whole wrench so to speak and getting the torque out of plane. With the driver in there, it was clean rotation from the get go so our work was more efficient.
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May 3, 2015 00:32
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tactlessbastard posted:I got it! So, do all these guides have you draining the coolant because it's just the thing to do at this point, or because you're going to wind up soaking wet when you change the water pump if you don't do it?
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May 3, 2015 01:53
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I'm back to working on my 05 Civic 5 speed. You all talked me off the cliff after I hosed up a timing belt change a while back, if that stirs any memories. I was driving on some pretty pathetic tires for a while and there was a lot of road noise and unnecessary wiggle. I finally got new ones all around and an alignment and things were just great, it was like having a new car again. Last Friday, as I was driving to pick up kids, I braked and there was a grinding noise coming from what sounded like the drivers side front. When I got off the brake, it didn't stop, but it did a few seconds later. Later, it started again when I turned out of the parking lot of the daycare, and then went on all the way home, about a mile. I parked it, used a different car to go to work all weekend, and when I got home today I propped her up on jack stands. First things first, I tried manually rotating the wheels, and there was no noticeable difference right to left. I then started it, put it in gear, and got out. The passenger side wheel was puttering along but the driver side wheel was just twitching. It would give a little half a degree advance, then stop for several seconds, and then jump again. Self, I said, that probably isn't good for the drive train, so I shut it down. I took the wheels off. Now, I don't know anything at all about brakes, except that I do know about I'm sure with 100k on it, I need pads and rotors. At least. I took these pictures. One question, is the pad supposed to rest against the rotor when the car is off?  Driver side #1  Driver side #2  Driver side #3  Passenger side
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Dec 21, 2015 22:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yes, the pads should contact the rotors at all times. However, it looks like those pads are down to basically nothing left. Ah. So, new pads for sure. Do the rotors look alright?
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Dec 21, 2015 22:55
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Leperflesh posted:They look OK, but it's hard to tell from photos. Run your fingernail along the rotor from center to edge. If you can feel significant grooving, like it catches your fingernail and feels rough, then it's time for resurfacing or a new rotor, whichever is cheaper. These days replacing the rotors is usually cheaper than paying someone to turn/resurface them. The rotor surface is pretty smooth until you get to the last centimeter towards the O.D. Is the pads being worn down to nubs the cause of the grinding noise?
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Dec 21, 2015 23:12
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Christobevii3 posted:If your time is worth more than money, just buy new rotors. Most places won't turn them anymore because there is some federal safety law about how much they can be out of spec from oem. If your money is worth more, just change the pads and see what happens. I'm going to do pads and rotors when I get a chance. I've got to drive the car two more times before I can lay it up and do that, but it doesn't look like a wheel is about to fall off. I did not mention that the grinding is like a file on metal chuff chuff chuff that is directly proportional in frequency to speed (up to a certain point where it stops can't hear it over rolling noise
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Dec 21, 2015 23:59
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Slavvy posted:One of your pads is already metal-to-metal judging by the pics you've posted. It's probably an inboard one which is why you can't detect anything wrong with the discs. An opportunity to work on it came up this morning, I had a few hours off between shifts. After a quick trip to the parts store for pads, rotors, an impact driver, and a wire brush and various chemicals, I was able to get out of there for about $160. Changed them all out, no major problems to report. I just drove it, stops like a champ and no more noise. One thing though, when the wheels were off and you rotated the hub, you could see a slight eccentricity in the rotation of the new rotor on the driver's side. With the caliper on, you'd get a variable amount of brake pad noise as you completed one rotation. And here's the real kicker:  On the left, you have the driver's side outboard brake pad compared to the passenger side outboard brake pad. What's causing that?
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Dec 22, 2015 17:51
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gvibes posted:Important AI question: Honda Odyssey or Toyota Sienna? Vasectomy.
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Dec 22, 2015 23:00
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Ashton posted:Here's how it was yesterday, at its worst. It was PACKED. You might consider moving.
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Jan 26, 2016 20:24
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Godholio posted:loving alternators, how do they work? They just do. Until they don't. Then you replace them. What?
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Feb 8, 2016 19:01
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punk rebel ecks posted:What are the advantages of manual vs automatic? I got just robbed instead of robbed and carjacked in my manual civic, so there's that.
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Feb 28, 2016 19:06
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punk rebel ecks posted:So it used to be manual > auto for advantages but now auto has taken up all of manual's strengths? Well, yes, except for the theft deterrence. Also the penis enhancement, but I thought that was an unspoken thing.
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Feb 29, 2016 01:23
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Geirskogul posted:Don't think anybody here has one, iirc. We could always return to the home defense Miata concept. Best tires for not overpenetrating, best lights for dazzling intruders, etc
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Mar 4, 2016 19:14
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quote:I just want a car to get me around that is reliable, cheap, good gas milage... Do you want your unicorn to have one horn or two?
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Mar 7, 2016 15:25
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I have a stupid question, what the hell are these things in my drill bit kit?
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Aug 9, 2016 19:48
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scuz posted:They rule and are very good. Thanks! I've never had that use case pop up or I probably would have figured that out. How about this?
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Aug 9, 2016 20:20
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spog posted:Cock ring It is extremely uncomfortable and I can't get it off please advise
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Aug 9, 2016 21:47
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spog posted:That's what the other bits in that case are for. I am beginning to get the idea you don't have my best interests at heart 
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Aug 9, 2016 21:59
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General_Failure posted:Where else can I look to sort this out? You're going to need a young priest an and old priest.
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Sep 13, 2016 01:35
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spouse posted:Is it a dumb idea to buy a $950 volvo 240 with 250,000 miles on it to learn how to drive a manual? I've always liked the little tanks, and figured it'd be better than ruining my dad's Mustang or my buddy's Evo, though either have offered. Dooooo it!
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Sep 13, 2016 02:02
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Godholio posted:This is pretty much exactly what I want to do for my kid. I learned on a 12yo hilux and my dad told me if you can't do this you've got no business driving. I've had 4 vehicles in 18 years and three of them were manuals. I only had the automatic for two years.
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Sep 13, 2016 04:10
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My 99 dodge caravan is sitting in the driveway with the battery dead as a door nail because the radiator fans never shut off. It's been suggested that the relay is stuck and that I need to replace it, but every conversation I can find online about locating and replacing the relay is about fixing a van where the fans won't come on, not won't shut off. Is there anything else I should check out or should i just slap a new relay in it and see what happens? It's only $50 but the stores on this side of the river are all out of stock so it'd be a slight pain to go get.
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Sep 26, 2016 13:53
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tactlessbastard posted:My 99 dodge caravan is sitting in the driveway with the battery dead as a door nail because the radiator fans never shut off. It's been suggested that the relay is stuck and that I need to replace it, but every conversation I can find online about locating and replacing the relay is about fixing a van where the fans won't come on, not won't shut off. Is there anything else I should check out or should i just slap a new relay in it and see what happens? It's only $50 but the stores on this side of the river are all out of stock so it'd be a slight pain to go get. I had to jump it in a hurry to get the kids to school this morning. The fans went on full blast as soon as I connected the jumper cable. Anyway, while I had the hood open I opened the fuse box and pulled the fuse for the fans and they stopped, naturally. I stuck the fuse back in and there was a spark and now the fans aren't on and the CEL light is on so woops.
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Sep 26, 2016 14:29
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tactlessbastard posted:I had to jump it in a hurry to get the kids to school this morning. The fans went on full blast as soon as I connected the jumper cable. Anyway, while I had the hood open I opened the fuse box To no one's surprise, temp started climbing while stuck in the drop off line at school. Turned on the heater and made it home. Have I converted a stuck on relay to a dead relay? Or did I do further damage to the electrics screwing around with that fuse?
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Sep 26, 2016 15:37
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tater_salad posted:I'm not familiar with this specific vehicle but here are some possibilities. I pulled it while it was running, but my thinking was that circuit is live even when the motor is off, so what difference would it make? On the other hand, electricity is magic. I don't think the fuse is shot, and i swapped it with a known good one and there was no change. I'll change the relay next.
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Sep 26, 2016 16:50
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spankmeister posted:Yeah replace the relay and sensor, they're very cheap parts that can cause very expensive problems. Would that be the coolant temp sensor?
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Sep 26, 2016 17:26
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tater_salad posted:Usually called a cooling fan switch, or radiator fan switch. Finally got a chance to get into the van. I started looking from down below, couldn't see anything relevant to the radiator, but I did find this loose connector dangling. Looked like it had been unplugged for a long time, and I couldn't find anything within its reach that it would plug into. What the hell? Anyway, I removed the air box and the intake and there was my relay, easy peasy. I've pulled it out and replaced it. The instructions that came with the relay recommend also replacing the oem harness, is that necessary? My third question is, is it advisable to start the van and see if it is working correctly without reassembling the whole intake? As long as I make sure the area around the intake hose is clear?
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Sep 28, 2016 15:49
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Can you reattach the intake without bolting it down? Just let it flop there? Not directly, but I could get the filter unit attached to it. Thanks!
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Sep 28, 2016 17:10
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Finally got the new relay in this morning. Everything works perfect. Thanks for the assist, gentlemen.
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Sep 29, 2016 15:42
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rizuhbull posted:2005 Honda Civic. 60k miles. I have the same car and did the same job a few months ago. It is stupid easy. Just use a wrench to get it loose, apply anti seize to threads of new Denso sensor, and screw it back in.
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Oct 5, 2016 09:07
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I've been a driving a Honda for 11 years now, and my wife went through college in a raggedy but reliable Corolla and moved up to a Camry when she started work. I've been working on both cars and am pretty familiar with Hondas and Toyotas, but we've got the third child on the way and we're looking at Odysseys and Siennas, but even used ones are still breathtakingly expensive. A dealer we've been browsing at popped up with a 2016 Nissan Pathfinder S with only 7k miles on it and they want 25.5k for it (as opposed to 30 and 32k for two and three year old Odysseys with 40-50k on them. Realizing that that particular Pathfinder has so many fewer of the bells and whistles that the minivans have, what I don't know is diddly about Nissans. Are they reliable? Expensive to work on?
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Oct 5, 2016 20:29
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scuz posted:The CEL will turn off. Can confirm.
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Oct 5, 2016 20:31
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My oem battery in my 05 civic made it 8 years, but not a single tire made it to 10k miles without blowing out a sidewall (the first went at 3k!)
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Oct 24, 2016 12:04
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I get the vague feeling i'm getting scammed on craigslist but I can't see the risk with my method but my wife is pretty antsy. We've got this 1999 Dodge minivan that we've had for about a year and a half. We bought it off her grandma for a long trip with family++ that we wanted to save having to take two vehicles for. We made the trip, and then started saving up, sold her car and bought a 2014 Honda van. So, we need to get rid of the Caravan. There's nothing majorly wrong with it except for two things: the headliner is starting to droop and there's a knocking coming from the front right strut. Otherwise, the body is in real good shape, everything works, it has extensive repair records. It only has 167k miles on it, so I posted it on CL Little Rock this morning for $1500. I get a text from an Ohio number about 20 minutes after I post the ad. code:He responds with a request for more pictures, I send him some, and then tell him that the only issues with the vehicle are the headliner starting to droop in places and that the front right strut is clanking. code:I text him: Price is $1500 cash to you or any representative you chose, van sold as is. Cashier check or check for the vehicle will need to be $1500 + $100 for a having to go to the bank fee. Van will sit until the check clears. When the check clears, you or your representative can take van and title. Then he texts me back, code:code:I intend to deposit the check in the bank and wait until the bank declares it cleared. I intend to inform the bank that I am waiting to hear that the check is cleared. I'm not going to wire money to anyone for anything. What am I missing?
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Nov 30, 2016 23:12
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I also got a text from a NYC number this afternoon asking for the same thing, Hey, I pay now, you work with shipper to get up here. I told him the same thing and he asked for my paypal info and when I told him I didn't have a paypal account it's been crickets ever since.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:16
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Razzled posted:My understanding of cashier's checks is that banks are required to make deposited funds available to you within a certain time period (24 hours or something) regardless if they are fraudulent or not (because at that point they don't know yet) and on the other end, cashier's checks are issued using the bank's money so if it turns out to be fraudulent (when your bank tries to get the money from the issuing bank) the bank will deduct the money from your account and if you've transferred goods at that point... good luck getting them back. There's a lot of vagueness about when a check "clears". So just because it's there in your account doesn't necessarily mean it's your money yet Yeah, I understand the difference between cleared and available. I had the occasion once to deposit a check for 18k and they told me 2k is available now but that remaining 16k won't be available for several more days. And it was nearly a week. I'm going to wait the week or so. I'm not going to be checking my balance online to see if the check is good.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:22
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Its a scam. A common one at that. Where's the scam, if I wait until I actually have the money before letting anyone take the vehicle? And don't send anyone money, period?
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Nov 30, 2016 23:23
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You're not going to actually get the money, because it doesn't exist. All you're doing is going through a song and dance with a stupid criminal. This scam is so common that I can't imagine any legitimate buyer would ever try to conduct operations this way because it looks so shady. You can't tell the bank, hey let's make double drat sure this is good?
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Nov 30, 2016 23:29
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