|
I'm desperate. The control arm ball joint on my 2008 LS460 WILL NOT COME OUT. I have literally bent a pickle fork trying to get it out. I have used a jack on the bolt to try and push it out. I have torched it so hot that it melted the bushings. The compression style removers dont fit. This bolt is now damaged from hammering and I don't know what else to try. Ideas?
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2018 00:16
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 14:51 |
|
|
Geoj posted:
It doesn't have a pinch bolt (or at least I cant find it). I decided to remove the whole spindle and, guess what, the other control arm bolt is stuck too. I had to give up for now.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 26, 2018 20:45
|
|
|
Car: 1973 Datsun 240z Issue: No spark Condition: Sat unstarted for 6 years. I am getting no spark from the coil. I pulled apart the distributor, its absolutely crap and needs to be replaced, but that isn't the problem (I don't think). I regaped the point. It has a new distributor cap and rotor. I tried a new coil. The resistor is 1.6ohms, within spec. I put a new jumper wire from the + coil to the +distributor in case that wire was bad. I put the timing light between the coil and the distributor cap and got nothing. No matter what I sand and clean its seems I am not getting the spark from the coil. I am not sure what to test any more I am completely out of ideas. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jun 26, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2018 04:25
|
|
|
JUST MAKING CHILI posted:1974 Chevy truck with the 350 small block. Current owner ran a coolant system flush and then didn’t refill it with coolant. Let it sit over the winter (in Texas, no snow and minimal days below 30 degrees). Replaced a freeze plug, then refilled it with coolant. Now there’s a massive leak out the front of the engine at the water pump. No coolant in the oil, so that’s a good sign. Seals can dry out and shrink/crack. I would guess that is the issue.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2018 05:17
|
|
|
quote="spankmeister" post="485461738"] Check your grounds, probably a ground strap rotted away somewhere. [/quote] Totally possible. However, if I run a continuity test from the distributor - wire to the chassis, I get continuity. Shouldn't that mean I am okay? Fo3 posted:12v to the coil while cranking? (or 7v from resistor while cranking?) -ve to coil continuity test to -ve of battery for ground problems. Could be something like a missing or broken earth lead from engine to chassis. No alarms, etc. I think at one point it did have a voltage booster circuit but at this point it looks like that has been wired out. the line to the + of the resistor always reads ~12.5v. I didn't try wiring it straight to the battery directly. I can give that a shot and see what happens. Also, it was my understanding that condensors were just there to absorb some extra voltage and prolong the life of the points. I.E. you could run without one just fine. Is that incorrect? The one I have on there has obviously been replaced (although 6+ years ago). Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jun 26, 2018 |
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2018 18:00
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:12v to the coil while cranking? (or 7v from resistor while cranking?) -ve to coil continuity test to -ve of battery for ground problems. Could be something like a missing or broken earth lead from engine to chassis. Update: I jumped the + on the battery to the + on the coil and I got spark! Soooo, this means I have narrowed it down to one of like 40 problems. It could be that, under load, the resistor is crapping out. Which would be REALLY strange, but possible. I can just throw a new one on there and see what happens. It could mean, that the start-circuit does, in fact, exist somewhere and screwing things up. Or there is some other grounding issue. Blargh.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2018 17:42
|
|
|
Admiral Joeslop posted:I drive a 2005-built Isuzu NPR truck for work. The air conditioning has never worked in the two years I've had it. The air blows out just fine but is not cold. The mechanic we have is entirely useless and refuses to fix anyone's AC because he thinks it's a luxury. How feasible is it for me to go to a pull-a-part, or eBay, or whatever, and get it fixed myself? Have you tried refilling it yet? There is a 90% chance that is your problem. You can just go to your local Autozone and buy a recharge kit for R-134s. You attach the hose to the low-side pressure port and let it refill the system. Those stupid cans used to be about $15 dollars but now they are $40 for some reason. Its highly probable that you have a slow leak somewhere too, but its easier to refill it every year or so than fixing it properly.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 28, 2018 17:45
|
|
|
WHY WONT MY 240Z START!?!? I am trying to bring back my 240z that has been in storage for 12 years. I put a brand new set of carbs from Ztherapy on it. I put a new 280z distributor (removed the points). - The car cranks. - I see that I have spark to the spark plug using a timing light - I have sprayed copious amounts of starter fluid in the carbs About every 5 seconds or so of cranking I can hear a slight firing-cough. Otherwise, it just sits there cranking like it has no spark or fuel at all. The spark plugs are fairly new and other than a ton of carbon from failed starts, seem fine. I am running the positive straight from the battery to the coil just to eliminate any possible complications. If my distributor was 180 out, I would hear it firing but it would fire the wrong direction and slow/stop the engine cranking. Even if the timing was horribly off (which I assume it is) it should still run roughly, correct? GAAH!! What am I missing? Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 03:15 on Aug 26, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Aug 26, 2019 03:13
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Your firing order is off at the very least. The ignition timing may still be off.  Lets assume, for the sake of accuracy, that I am a complete idiot and I don't know anything. How in the world does the above happen? 1) This is a 280zx distributor in an L24 (240z) engine. Its newly rebuilt. 2) The advance/retard adjustments are nowhere near large enough to account for this variance 3) For the sake of testing, I rotated the plug wires ahead one spot but it still wasn't firing. 4) As far as I can tell, there is no way to put the distributor in 30 degrees off. It's 180 out or correct. Right? What happened here? Did the oil pump break? Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Sep 13, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2019 05:26
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Unless the L-series distributor is way different than I'm thinking of, you can easily put it in a tooth off, not just 180 out. Sorry, I don't follow. The distributor drive sits in what looks like a flathead screw from the oil pump. I never pulled the shaft from the oil pump, so I don't see how that could have moved. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 06:13 on Sep 13, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Sep 13, 2019 06:10
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:Did you go back and start over? Making sure you have the firing order right, the rotation right, and had it on TDC of the compression stroke? StormDrain posted:It looks like there's a shaft that links the drive gear to the oil pump, that is separate from the distributor? Yeah if you never removed it things should be the same. PainterofCrap posted:
EDIT: UPDATE: CHANGE OF STATUS. Stupid loving L24 starts (kinda) after 11 years. It turns out that the issue WAS that the spark plugs were one place off. I guess the P/O must have done this at some point and in my attempts over the years to get it running I must have not noticed. When I was switching the plug wires around, I knocked loose the + from the coil. After fixing that, is (kinda) starts up with starting fluid. Current Problem: I have new carbs from Ztherapy, however, it only seems to be running when I use starting fluid. Not sure what seems to be going on with that. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Sep 14, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2019 17:46
|
|
|
Fun Fact: Don't wear a metal watch while working on your car. I just arked across my coil with my watch strap WHILE SPRAYING STARTING FLUID. I am lucky that poo poo didn't explode. I now have a chunk missing from my strap. Car still wont start.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2019 20:15
|
|
|
Preoptopus posted:Same goes for wedding rings. At least you know you have spark. Curious tho why were you trying to ether start your car with an open coil? I should have said resistor on the coil. MrYenko posted:Jesus. Never wear metal/metallized/metallic jewelry when you work on stuff. There’s too many ways to injure/maim/kill you in just about any kind of motor vehicle. Normally, I am pretty good about that. I was actually just between events and I just wanted to check something. I saw the broken wire, fixed it, and got excited to try starting it up.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 15, 2019 16:48
|
|
|
1973 240z sat for 10 years. Replaced fuel system and carbs. The current problem; when started the car idles at wide-open throttle. Butterfly adjustment screw seems to have no effect. No, the choke isn't on and the butterflies seem closed when not running. How is this possible?
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2020 06:57
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:One gently caress of a giant vacuum leak? In this scenario, with the butterflies closed, how is it getting enough fuel? Surely not enough for full rev would be flowing with them down?
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2020 16:32
|
|
|
wesleywillis posted:One gently caress of a giant vacuum leak? meatpimp posted:That was my thought. Air has to come in somewhere, and if the butterflies are shut, welp. Well, the balance bar itself has a big intake on it, so I am not really sure how much a "leak" would play into this. Then again, I am stupid.
|
|
#
¿
May 27, 2020 04:02
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:So this comment is a big wtf for me, what do you mean? Is there an unmetered hole in your intake somewhere because yes that is a problem. And one you could cover and see an instant change. There is a vacuum hose that runs to the crankcase in the middle of the balance tube. So not exactly "unmetered" but most people just eliminate that use a little K&N filter thingy instead. Yes, I have tested with crankcase hose in place, without it and completely taped shut. It had no impact. SU carbs make it really hard to "see" anything in there. I have to presume the butterfly are opening because it wouldn't possibly get enough air or fuel with them sealed.
|
|
#
¿
May 28, 2020 05:44
|
|
|
What in the holy hell is this crap? My radiator on the 240z I am trying to get running (sat for 15 years) was spraying water out of some pinholes so I pulled it off and noticed the ENTIRE coolant system is full of some kind of poo poo. Now, I am aware that hard water can create scale and build up, but the thermostat housing was absolutely full. I pulled another 1/4 cup of this crap out of the passage with my finger. Has anyone ever seen buildup this bad before? What could have caused it? Its crunchy like limestone grit with tiny pebbles in it. What is the best way to flush it out without running the engine?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2022 05:57
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 14:51 |
|
|
Here is the intake.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2022 06:00
|
|