AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Good christ I had no idea you could get a sportage with the Lambda. That engine is a devastating weapon in a sedona, let alone something half the size.

# ¿ Feb 25, 2015 07:07

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 15:25

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Jesus christ, I fully did. Good catch.

# ¿ Feb 25, 2015 09:31

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

bolind posted:

Cool, thanks again! What's an acceptable out-of-round? Is there even one?

Not really but, again, if you can feel it in the car you'll bloody well know when you spin the wheel, trust me.

# ¿ Feb 25, 2015 19:02

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

No. The arm is already lowered as far as it can go, your shock isn't what stops it drooping further. If I'm wrong it is not remotely a big deal, just lift it with your jack.

# ¿ Feb 25, 2015 22:23

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Mr.Radar posted:

This is a really stupid question, but if I'm wrong I'd like to know ASAP. I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic and this morning I closed my car door on the front driver's side seat belt buckle and the plastic cover broke and came off. Pics. Will this impact the safety of the seat belt? (I'm guessing no.) Is there any way to replace the buckle without replacing the whole seat belt assembly? (Based on a quick part search also guessing no). If no, what kind of labor am I looking at to get that fixed? (I'm guessing 2-3 hours assuming the seat needs to be removed.) Would this be covered under the warranty? (Probably not.) Thanks!

It won't matter at all beyond cosmetically. You have to replace the entire belt if you want a new buckle. I'd say around an hour's labour being generous (and assuming a chevy sonic doesn't have some kind of insane seatbelt fixture design).

# ¿ Feb 26, 2015 03:04

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

some texas redneck posted:

That cover looks like it may be able to just slip back on.

It's purely cosmetic. Older seatbelts had bare metal buckles.

I'm going to disagree with Slavvy on how long it'll take though, since that seat belt will have pretensioners inside it that are set off with the airbags (to tighten the belt). Replacing it will require disconnecting the battery and following whatever procedure exists to ensure the airbag system is drained of power. I'd guess 2 hours (book) labor.

I'd see if the dealer will fix it under warranty and maybe leave out the part about it getting caught in the door.

Pretensioner procedure: remove trim, disconnect pretensioner connector, remove seatbelt as normal.

Disconnecting the battery for airbag poo poo is overrated; no dealer tech ever does it.

BlackMK4 posted:

Looking at a first car for my girlfriend, she's 23. What are the problem areas on the 96-01 Camry/ES300? Looking for a car in the 3k-ish area and it seems as though these are a little bit nicer and less beaten.

ie: http://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/4902803684.html

Cambelts are fairly labour intensive on that engine (like every FWD V6 I guess) so it's worth seeing when it was last done. They're absolute tanks though.

# ¿ Feb 26, 2015 18:52

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

BlackMK4 posted:

Is there a way to pull check engine codes on a 98 ES300 without an OBD reader? (flash codes?)

If you have the under-bonnet toyota connector, it's possible to bridge T1 and E1 (they're labelled under the cap, usually) and have the CEL flash them out numerically.

Remy Marathe posted:

Question about automatic transmission fluid intervals when they claim that it's "good for the lifetime of the transmission". I have a 2015 Mazda 3 w/1.5L Skyactiv (same as the 2014's as far as I know).

Internet research in the past has yielded opinions ranging from doing ATF changes every 30k miles to people that buy the official Mazda 3 line and never touch it. Roughly, people on the internet that do ATF changes on their Mazda 3's seemed to lean towards drain and fill but not flushing. The service manual for the '14 does detail inspection and replacement of the ATF, and I've read one supposed response from Mazda that was more or less "don't change it unless your [dealership] mechanic says so, in which case do it."

Transmissions are completely out of my ken and reading car repair advice on the internet is like trying to average and weight yelp reviews. I don't put a lot of miles on, maybe 6k/year. So:

-Is there any kind of consensus as to whether "lifetime fluid" is pure horseshit and guarantees an appreciable loss of transmission life? And by "appreciable", I mean I don't really mind if it's the difference between seeing it last to 150k vs 180k (OK I don't even know what normal would be). But if never touching the fluid is a good way to have a transmission fail absurdly early, then I'm concerned.

-What's the safest maintenance policy to adopt towards this car? I haven't found a mechanic I can trust yet (hopeful for the next one though), and this doesn't sound like something I'm prepared to attempt on my own, so I don't necessarily consider ATF changes risk-free either. Hell it looks like you have to get under the car while it's heated up to even check the fluid level, which I'm not sure I'm up for.

Lifetime fluid is a crock of poo poo, 'lifetime' is actually just 'length of the warranty' and you should realistically change it around 60 miles on a modern car at the very latest. Safest policy is to change the oil on time with the oil specified in the owner's manual and do the same with the trans fluid and coolant.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2015 19:40

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

1500quidporsche posted:

The whole lifetime fluids thing basically boils down to the manufacturer saying "there is acceptable wear over x years/miles" if we don't change the fluid. I don't think there is any inherent benefit in sticking with that beyond cost savings.

The Mk1 VWs had lifetime fluids for the manual transmission. You can't find one without rough syncros or a chipped reverse gear which I strongly suspect is tied in with that.

This could apply to pretty much any manual trans though. Autos are a different ball game entirely. Most danuals can last practically forever without changing the oil (performancy cars excepted).

Remy Marathe posted:

That's the plan with the other things, but there is no ATF interval listed in the manual. You said "60k at the latest", is 30k a decent interval then (about 5 years for me) or is that overkill?

30k is good if you want to just do a drain and refill which usually takes out around half the total capacity. If you want to stretch to longer you'll have to do a proper flush out and refill.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2015 19:53

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Tomarse posted:

I Spoke to a local Citroen garage who said they have never done the cables or gearchange assembly on a C1/Aygo but do a couple of clutches per week..

I went ahead and changed my gearbox oil thismorning anyway and it looks like metallic paint when you stir it.

Not the best pictures, but I don't think this oil looks good

Looks pretty normal for oil that's never been done.

You should see the magnetic diff plug on a land cruiser with 30,000km,.

# ¿ Feb 28, 2015 22:13

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Idea: stop loving around with old poo poo, get new shoes/drums/cylinders, walk away a contented man.

Realtalk: what if the wheel cylinders are wrong? Have you considered that?

# ¿ Mar 1, 2015 04:24

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Depends on the colour of the car. If it's a blue car you have to turn the car upside down to stop the valvebody falling out. If it's a green car you have to tilt the car on a 45 degree angle to make sure all the fluid comes out.

# ¿ Mar 1, 2015 05:08

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Sorry I was under the impression that you were dealing with PO installed parts. If you're able to fit the drum on with the shoes as they are in the picture, it seems like the wheel cylinder won't have anywhere near enough travel to push them out further without bursting. I'm not familiar with soviet tractor designs but to my eye it seems like the WC is just too small to work with the shoes being that far apart; logic dictates that it's either the wrong WC or the shoes are slightly incorrect.

# ¿ Mar 1, 2015 05:12

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

CharlesM posted:

I've had several cars that will hold lower gears / not shift into overdrive until warmed up.

Indeed, some older autos have a temp sensor specifically for it to know when the ATF is warm enough to allow OD to engage. My mother's trooper was like this.

# ¿ Mar 2, 2015 22:16

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

CharlesM posted:

In my case it is by design and is tied to the ATF temperature rather than the engine coolant temperature (which is what you see on your gauges). The manual probably mentions it. In my case, it is perfectly normal. You have to look up yours but it sounds normal, especially if it's only keeping it out of the top gear (overdrive).

Weirdly my Mercedes manual says it is tied to engine temperature (it specifically states 80 degrees or something) but it obviously has its own sensor by the way it behaves. First year model printing error?

Possibly. Or your engine temp isn't as hot as you might think - don't trust the gauge.

# ¿ Mar 3, 2015 06:37

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

It would've been a rotor, charging disc machining to warranty would've been a pain in the rear end so they just did the easy thing and put new rotors on it. New pads par for the course, just in case the old ones were defective somehow.

# ¿ Mar 4, 2015 23:13

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Do you left foot brake? Hard braking just wears out the brakes. 90% of the shudders I see originate with people gently riiiiiiiiidiiiiiiing the braaaaaaaaaakeeeee down hills instead of just braking decisively once. Left foot brakers are the absolute worst; I can say without exaggeration that the difference between left foot braking and driving properly is around 50% brake pad lifespan on some vehicles.

I'd say they were just playing it safe and trying to make sure you don't come back later. It's also probable that their warranty hours are more than it actually takes to do that job so they'd be making a slight percentage on the labour.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2015 00:26

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Chances are the hybrid version of the car has some other componentry taking up the cavity vacated by half the tank, or the shell of the vehicle differs to accommodate the battery pack or whatever.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2015 02:25

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Junkyard axle swap.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2015 22:07

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

99% of the time, yes. Swapping the entire axle is extremely simple and can be done in a few hours in your driveway, with a jack + stands and basic tools. Rebuilding the diff involves semi-specialised tools and workshop expertise.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2015 22:17

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

CB_Tube_Knight posted:

Gotten pretty good advice from SA before, so I'm going to try this here.

I have a 2005 GMC Envoy that's been having battery issues on and off. Every few months it won't start and I will have to jump it. This last time I used a small jumper box, but I hooked it to the side of the fuse box instead of the battery and the car will start now, but the entire dashboard is dark. Speedometer works along with the other gauges. The small panel that has the odometer and tells you how far you can go on a tank also works. The lights inside of the car, the windows and all the lights on the radio and A/C are all off. Oddly enough the the cigarette lighter will charge phones and the like. All of the headlights (high and low) and the brake and back lights work.

Other random things not working:

-Power windows
-Power locks
-Power seat controls
-Sunroof controls

I've pulled multiple fuses that could be associated with the problem and none of them seem to be burned out and I've looked around online for what the problem might be. I also have a picture of the spot where I put the jumper cables. They weren't crossed or anything, but I have since found out that you aren't supposed to jump this here from someone on Reddit (who mysteriously vanished after a few questions).

Here's a picture of where I hooked the cables up:

http://i.imgur.com/o6pKYBh.jpg

You done hosed up.

Don't pull fuses you think could be associated with the problem. Pull every single fuse in the car. There will be another fusebox in the cabin somewhere that deals with interior stuff (usually behind a kick panel) and I'll bet at least one fuse in there is blown.

All of the stuff you've listed as not working is controlled by a body control module and you've probably blown the fuse(s) protecting this. Hopefully.

# ¿ Mar 6, 2015 00:40

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

General_Failure posted:

1987 Lada Niva.

I've been reading a certain thread on here which made me doubt my decision to replace the mechanical fan which was missing it's shroud with a couple of Davies Craig-like OEM fans with a thermo switch.

The OEM mech fan wasn't all that big to be honest. The two fans I substituted are set up to blow through and fit the radiator cutout neatly. I think there's old pics in my project thread. Anyway one of the reasons I did this was for low speed / low rev cooling because it is a 4x4 plus they are known for having borderline cooling when worked hard at low speeds. The reduction in parasitic drag is also noticeable when cruising. Probably because it doesn't have a whole pile of horses to work with.

It's radiator is pretty shagged and needs to be replaced anyway, but I just want to make sure that I didn't make a stupid move.

You did the right thing, two decent electrics are going to be pushing a lot more air than a lovely 4 blade thing synchronised to engine revs on a russian tractor.

# ¿ Mar 6, 2015 06:24

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Motronic posted:

You mean like the fuse he attached the jump box to that he doesn't know is a fuse?

Upon closer inspection of the picture, yes.

# ¿ Mar 6, 2015 19:52

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

General_Failure posted:

Awesome. you put my mind a little more at ease with that. So long as I didn't make a series of bad choices. heh.

I've noticed when I'm driving along in 2nd gear on a dirt road the temperature climbs a bit. Can't remember if I said but it's pretty common for Aussie 1600 Niva owners to fit a manually switched electric to augment the mechanical for offroad duties. I believe the 1700 has dual electrics from the factory but I don't know much about the 1700 besides they have a different cooling system and fuel injection.

Have you got points ignition? Your gap/dwell might be set incorrectly.

# ¿ Mar 7, 2015 00:36

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Godholio posted:

Buy a new car.

Seriously, there is residue on every surface of every component in that cabin. In the fabrics, behind the dash, on every wire, cable, and screw head.

He isn't exagerrating, taking the dash apart on a smoker's car is like diving into an ashtray.

# ¿ Mar 7, 2015 06:16

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Raluek posted:

Probably the ignition switch. Do those still have a coil resistor? Could be that too, but I'd expect that to fail all at once, instead of intermittently.

They don't.

Black88GTA posted:

Thanks, yeah ignition switch is a pretty strong possibility, as I can't think of too many other things that would cause something like this. Weird that it only seems to act up when cold though. Went ahead and ordered a replacement, along with a new front exhaust pipe to replace the one that developed a big leak on Wednesday, plus a pair of O2 sensors because a 4 cylinder NA Honda isn't supposed to get 16 mpg. This cold and snow poo poo needs to go away so I can work on my loving cars.

I'd bet your ignition switch or one of the main relays. If it's a relay on the brink, it'll play up more when it's cold.

Thunder Moose posted:

New driver - car is a 2001 Buick Century

When I drive out of my parking lot - which has a fairly steep ramp, I notice the bottom scrapes against the concrete. I assume this is problematic but wish to know to what degree and if any tips on alleviating the problem are available.

Exit slower. GIS indicates the buick century is by no means a particularly low-slung car so either you have the steepest ramp ever seen or you're just going too fast and the nose of the car is bouncing off the ground before the suspension can decompress from the sudden change in slope. If that still doesn't work, try exiting the ramp at an angle instead of head-on as this effectively gives you less overhang.

It's problematic because things underneath your car aren't intended to smash into immovable objects on a daily basis.

# ¿ Mar 8, 2015 03:34

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

identity49 posted:

Last week I put down a deposit on a new car with the intention of driving to pick it up (3.5 hour drive) on Saturday. Late Friday, I get a call from the salesman telling me the car was backed into by a customer in the dealer lot.

It's being repaired at the dealer group's body shop, and they say it will be ready for delivery late Wednesday.

How much would you expect them to take off the price following damage/repair like this? Or would I be dumb to even buy it? I suppose I could ask for them to have a new vehicle delivered, as much as I'd hate to have to wait even longer.

I would ask for a new car, but you could probably talk them down on price instead if that floats your boat more. It won't matter whatsoever to the functioning of the car, but being a dealer ensures that the new paint on the bumper and the panel work involved in general just won't be very good compared to the factory stuff.

# ¿ Mar 9, 2015 18:56

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

It's impossible to diagnose something like that over the internet but I would say it has nothing to do with wheel balance, it sounds more like they didn't put the wheels on properly, or hosed with something in the steering that they shouldn't have. I don't often say this but if you're an american, lawyering up is probably the best course of action.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2015 19:01

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Put it this way: at any given junkyard in my town, all of which are crammed with pedestrian JDM vehicles, the top three things I can almost never find are:

1. Nissan pulsar tacho
2. Toyota Distributor
3. Honda distributor

They fail fairly often on neglected cars, either from abuse as you described or (more common on Toyota) from the shaft seal leaking and covering the coil and everything else in engine oil.

# ¿ Mar 12, 2015 00:24

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

some texas redneck posted:

I'm betting that screw backed out and got tossed around inside the distributor; probably what caused it to die. If there was no load from the loose wires, it would have been pulling 2 cylinder action long before it died.

The screw backing out is actually kind of common (on Hondas) if you don't use a dab of loctite on it when you change the rotor. Usually it causes the rotor to back off just enough to stop spinning, but if it's seized on the shaft, the screw gets pulverized into conductive dust (or it creates a new exit through the cap).

I'm betting once it has a new distributor on it, it'll fire right up. And being the D15, you can use a distributor from any other D15 Civic (as long as you match OBD1 or OBD2). Possibly a D16 non-VTEC distributor.

The crank angle sensor is part of the oil pump assembly on OBD2 D series engines, doesn't exist on OBD1. They very rarely fail.

Can confirm that a D16 one works on the d15.

# ¿ Mar 12, 2015 01:38

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

At least toyotas have the decency to just stall immediately then run like a misfiring oval office at the slightest hint of moisture. You can't damage what you can't drive!

# ¿ Mar 12, 2015 09:32

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Fucknag posted:

Something to check for (depending on the vehicle) is brake rotor/drum clips, these guys:

Factory wheels have a space cast into them on the flange to clear them, but some aftermarket wheels don't have the space. If the clip is left on it can cause the wheel to not be flush when mounted and cause vibration that way even if they're perfectly balanced on the machine.

The clips are only for assembly line purposes and are 100% unnecessary on the finished car; they leave them on because it's cheaper to cast the space into the wheel than add an extra step in the factory to remove them.

Yes.

# ¿ Mar 14, 2015 07:30

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Parts Kit posted:

Going to post this again since it looks like it got lost at the very end of the last page.

What exactly do you mean? What stud?

# ¿ Mar 15, 2015 04:24

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Ozmiander posted:

It's a non issue for you.

Yup. Either the diff has a manual locker of some kind, which you can't hook up so it just acts like a normal diff, or it's an LSD so you get an LSD upgrade.

# ¿ Mar 15, 2015 05:55

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

No. When you start the car, the airbag light is meant to come on as a signal that everything is ok, then switch off after a few seconds. There is no way of knowing what is wrong with your car without pulling the codes with a scan tool but in my experience SRS systems are the best-engineered part of any car and the light tends not to come on unless there's something genuinely wrong.

I'd take it to get scanned at the very least.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2015 07:34

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Omglosser posted:

09 Pontiac Vibe 2.4L(Toyota 2AZ-FE) AWD 115k
I was just playing around with my new OBDII scanner and I noticed this:

Foot off the pedal:

Pedal to the floor:

I've done a very stupid thing once or twice in the past, when cleaning the throttle body I forced it open by hand (it's an electric) instead of using the gas pedal.
Note: I've had these recalls done http://www.cars.com/recalls/pontiac/vibe/2009/ I don't think they would go in and nerf my gas pedal, but who knows? I've noticed that it will intermittently, when I stomp on the gas, have some decent pull and go, but most of the time it just slowly gets up to speed.

Basically I'm wondering if I need to replace the TB or the pedal sensor? Or is there something else going on?

Are you revving the car in neutral? Things don't work the same in neutral as in drive so you really need to look at the current data whilst driving. The ecu knows there's no load and you're just revving it for shits and giggles so it won't open the TB properly and some cars even cap the revs around 4,500rpm so you don't blow the engine up like a dumbass. I've never worked on a vibe but my toyota experience has shown me that 2az's (and modern toyotas in general) are just really sluggish and unresponsive at the best of times. Unless you had the ignition on when you were cleaning the TB, you couldn't have hurt anything; I've done it dozens of times with no issues.

You can't force the TB open using the gas pedal, it doesn't work that way. The ecu doesn't open the TB proportionate to the percentage the gas pedal is depressed. It instead calculates the amount of torque you're demanding from the engine (your accelerator pedal is actually a torque pedal) and opens the TB however much is necessary to reach that result. Torque percentage and TB opening percentage are not linear.

Or are you expecting both accelerator position percentages to be the same? Cause that's normal. What do you actually think is wrong with your car, if anything?

MrChips posted:

First question - no, it doesn't do any harm running normal tires in place of run-flats. In fact you might actually like how the car rides and handles on normal tires. Run-flats have very stiff sidewalls, which can negatively affect both of those characteristics.

Second question - personally, I don't skimp on tires, especially on a daily driver. As tired as the saying is, your tires are the only part of your vehicle that touches the road and they are a critical safety system. Budget brand tires are often not as well engineered as name brand tires, which could have a serious negative effect on wet and dry traction, and in the long run the the cheap rubber compounds they use can cause your tires to wear out fast enough that you would have been better off with the name brands.

Runflats are terrible and your car will feel and drive a million times better with ordinary tyres. Your car should have a tyre pump thingy in the boot cavity where the spare tyre would go on a conventional car. That's been my experience with every run-flat equipped BMW I've seen, but the UK might be different.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 20:18 on Mar 21, 2015

# ¿ Mar 21, 2015 20:16

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Omglosser posted:

No, the car was just in the 'on' position. I had been told that if you force open and electric throttle body manually you can damage it.

Actually yes you can, at least in my car's case. The first time I ever cleaned the TB I switched the key to the 'on' position and pressed the pedal down with one of those pedal depressor things that latches onto the steering wheel. I remember having an issue of some kind right after that so I didn't do it that way again(it was a long time ago).

Well I would expect the position to go up to 100% when I press the pedal to the floor, not 81.2%. Also it shouldn't read at 15.7% when the car is off and my foot is off the pedal, should it? I just did the same check on an 02 grand prix and it went from 0 to 100 when I went from off pedal to all the way down. The car was just in the 'on' position when I did the reading, not running, so there was no revving going on. It just seems like the pedal sensor or the throttle position sensor is out of whack, which may be what slows the car down when I really stand in it. I know it's a high torque 4-banger with AWD so I don't expect my eyes to sink back when I step on it, but there is a distinct difference in acceleration at seemingly random times. Also my gas mileage is pretty lovely. I'm lucky to get 22-23mpg and I do drive mostly on the highway. I really keep up on my regular maintenance and check my tires twice a month consistently so I doubt it's anything like that causing poor gas mileage.

CharlesM posted:

I'm pretty sure those are the exact numbers my Mazda 3 gives me for the position of the gas pedal. It's normal.

Yeah an 02 grand prix will have a throttle cable and a completely different set of readings.

Definitely don't dick around with it set to ON, if you want to clean an electronic TB you should only ever do it with the car completely switched off and manually open the throttle plate. You may have confused the ecu or damaged something in the TB motor by doing that. But anecdotally, the 2AZ is quite a bit less lively than 4 cylinders from other brands with the same sort of capacity. Surely it can't be that expensive to just grab a junkyard TB and try it?

# ¿ Mar 22, 2015 02:31

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Fucknag posted:

I think he's expecting the positions to read 0 and 100%, which will never be the case.

Sensors run on 5V power. 5 volts represents 100% sensor reading, 0v represents 0. Now say you unplug the sensor; (or the sensor fails) it reads 0 volts, 0%, but if the computer thinks that's just normal no-pedal, it can't tell anything's wrong. Similarly, if a short occurs bypassing the resistor in the sensor and it gets constant 5 volt power, it'll interpret that as wide open throttle and happily redline the engine until you turn the key off.

Having the "off pedal" and "max pedal" positions represented by non-0/non-100% positions lets the computer tell when the sensor fails in one of those two ways. It's a fail-safe. It still knows that 15.7% sensor position is zero throttle, and 80% sensor is max throttle.

If the engine responds appropriately at all pedal positions, and doesn't idle at 3000 rpm, stop worrying about it.

Yeah this. The grand prix will have 0-100% because it'll just be a simple rheostat that open-circuits and shuts a different terminal at idle and WOT.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2015 07:17

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Sounds like your clutch isn't releasing.

Protip: clutch slave/master cylinder quality is notoriously poor and it's possible to get hosed ones straight out of the box!

# ¿ Mar 23, 2015 03:21

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

Sounds like a crock of poo poo. Go check out the car, see what it actually does instead of relying on information given to you by someone trying to sell you something, then report back.

# ¿ Mar 23, 2015 08:33

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 15:25

Slavvy: Dec 11, 2012

It's sad that steering feel is something that's unexpected and possibly indicative of a problem nowadays.

# ¿ Mar 23, 2015 18:55

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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