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CharlesM posted:Oh boy maybe I should just buy my friend an account instead of getting info through facebook chat. I guess it is stalling at red lights. I guess the battery has been jumped at least once. Sorry I didn't have this information first! Sounds like a weak alternator or loose serp belt combined with a near death battery.
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Feb 27, 2016 18:34
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Seconding the choice of wagners. They stop good, are quiet and are close in cost and performance to the "Super duper ceramics!" You will be pushed towards at a parts store. Really like anything, there is a bunch of finely detailed bullshit once you dig into it, but its not worth knowing. Get some basic vented rotors and a good set of pads
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Mar 2, 2016 20:23
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I mixed Mercon V with Dex/Merc in my 2011 Ford ranger. How badly did I screw up? The Dipstick says use Mercon V and I thought the Dex/Merc was compatible. Did you just top it up with the dex/merc or do a flush with it? Is is slipping at all?
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Mar 11, 2016 08:58
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I drained and refilled. It's been running fine since I did it. The earlier version of mercon you would find in most dex/merc blends will not have the various additives and will not stand up to the same temps as mercon V. I'd say find a way to completely drain it yourself if possible (this means getting what is in the torque converter as well) or have a shop do it. If you aren't having any slippage, the fluid isn't smelling burnt on the dipstick and you don't see any metallic flakes, you likely don't have any damage to worry about. I'd just say get it all swapped as soon as its reasonably possible. If it makes you feel better, I've made the exact same mistake with dex III/VI and know what a pain in the rear end it is to waste all that perfectly good fluid and money. 
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Mar 12, 2016 02:58
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Gothmog1065 posted:Give unto me your advice goons! Oh hey, I actually have one of these turds and ita from 2005 as well. Its actually not a bad vehicle at all and most of the drivetrain components are shared with the silverados of that generation and are fairly bullet proof if well cared for (or even just paid the faintest attention over their life). I'd guess the drivetrain replacement was due to someone trying to drive in 4wd mode constantly with it, some other form of abuse or just a factory defect causing issues. As for the wheels, I wouldn't worry too much, there are enough people who run 19s and 20s with all terrain tires on them without issue. It can be somewhat difficult to find a good reasonably priced head unit if its loaded with nav, the bose sound system and onstar. Its not impossible though, and being willing to give up steering wheel controls makes it much easier. For something to use while dealing, see how faded the plastic cladding around the bed is and specificly how bad it is on the 3 panels that make up the bed cover. The replacement ones from gm are ~300 for each piece and if they're missing or heavily faded, it could make for a good negotiating point to get down to at least 11500. And if they are missing, $150 and a trip to a junkyard should net you all 3. These trucks do seem to hold value rather decently, but you can get them to come down on the price rather easily I expect. The only real issues I've seen commonly come up with this year is the fuel vapor canister vent valve loves to get clogged up with dirt and debris and throw a code. It doesn't affect the car in any way while driving, but would have to be fixed for emissions. Some people do report problems with the midgate leaking, but some replacement weatherstripping if the one on this vehicle is shot should tale care of it. Tip the rear seats forward and look under them and behind the rear seat backs to see if you can see any evidence of leaking. And if the truck has lived anywherebwith intense sunlight, the tailgate handle can snap, but its a 30 min to 1 hr job to replace it. The only other problem? They generate alot of hate for being big, plasticly and "omg, not a real truck with a full bed, omg the bed is so small hurf blurf" (its 6 inches shorter than the base silverado's bed from the same year and its the same width), but its a drat comfy ride (more so than a same year silverado, fight me bitch  ) and can be very dependable if well maintained. At 110k miles, you should expect to see the front wheel bearings going out in the next 30k or so and it should be due for new plugs and wires soonish. A check on when the fluid was changed in both diffs and when the tranny filter was last changed would also be good things to find out. If you've got any other questions, feel free to shoot me a pm so I don't wall of text this thread to death.
Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Mar 18, 2016 |
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Mar 18, 2016 04:49
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We use an absolutely base model frontier and versa note at work, both use standard keys. And have manual locks and windows.
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Mar 22, 2016 10:09
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2000 dodge durango with 5.9 Customer came in to get a starter, replaced it in a parking lot, found out it was a heavily corroded battery cable causing her non start issue, cleaned it and the vehicle started without hesitation. Drove to our store to return the core and the vehicle wouldn't start upon trying to leave. You could hear the starter solenoid click very clearly once, then nothing. Battery read at 12.75-12.89 volts with the vehicle turned off and would drop to 12.3-12.5 upon trying to start. I couldn't find any obvious issues and the only thing I could think of was a wire falling off the starter or the starter somehow poo poo itself after a single start. Anyone got a guess?
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Mar 26, 2016 04:40
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Yeah, I'm willing to accept its that, but it would be notable for dying after a single perfect start.  I'd put more bets on something being misaligned, but wouldn't I still see a voltage drop as the starter motor pressed the gear into the flywheel?
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Mar 26, 2016 05:13
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That car doesn't have an inline fuel filter. Seconding the advice to grab a fuel pressure tester. If you do need a new fuel pump, grab the stainer as well. Edit: Also, was the misfire being reported on multiple sensors or just one? Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 07:47 on Mar 29, 2016 |
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Mar 29, 2016 07:39
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The Door Frame posted:And as far as cars I actually can work on, 05 civic with 1.7, starts to seriously overheat at idle in a minute or so, just keeping it at 2.5k rpm lets it return to normal temp. I'm thinking that the water pump is going since it's got 110k miles on it and I filled the coolant tank.
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Apr 5, 2016 04:00
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For the honda brake dude: Most modern rotors have enough meat on them for one whole run through the lathe, maybe 2 if the second run is literally only a polishing or removing a very thin coating of surface rust. The measurements are handled in thousands of an inch and if you take out a nasty spot, you're not leaving a ton of room. Alot of times, (honda odesseys and early 2000's ford f-150s are the worst offenders in my area) I'll go to cut something after measuring out a 5-10 thousandths difference, find a low spot/hot spot and have to take 20-30 more getting it out. Its just the way poo poo goes. Though you need to find a good independant shop to do the work, dealership pricing is always nuts. Edit: And that $10 rotor cut is probably at an oreillys, since its the only major chain parts store that still turn rotors, drums and flywheels. You probably won't find a shop willing to let you take rotors to be turned at a parts store while your car is taking up a lift and it'll rust up in between brake jobs anyways. This means its only really an option if you are doing the job yourself. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Apr 9, 2016 |
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Apr 9, 2016 07:18
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I had a neighbor who complained about my truck having a loud exhaust because he lives at the bottom of a hill and I have to go faster than idle to get up it. I tried explaining that I was trying to be as quiet as possible when leaving in the mornings, but he refused to believe me and said I was flooring it. So I spent a week actually flooring it past his house in the mornings and now he doesn't complain to me. Legally there wasn't poo poo he could do because the noise is below the legal limit and the HoA believes me when I say I do the best I can to keep the noise down when people are possibly asleep. I also somehow get less attention from cops on the road. I guess because they think I'm one of the good ol' boys and not worth bothering unlike dem durned ricers kids and their tunered impert cars? I think what I'm getting at is do whatever you what with your car, just try to not be a jackass and you won't be harassed. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Apr 24, 2016 |
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Apr 24, 2016 08:20
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Dog Jones posted:I think what I'm gonna try and sell her is me just giving her $150 bucks, straight up. I think that is win-win cause: Quoting this post since its the least rambly, but that actually looks quite reasonable for an invoice to respray an entire bumper. The labor rate is quite low, most places I've ever seen are charging $20 more than that per hour minimum, the price for paint is dead on for them using a good brand like nason (a gallon of clearcoat on its own is damned near $100, then you have the cost of the activator for the clear, the primer if needed and the actual paint itself) and the incidentals covers poo poo like trim adhesive, replacement body clips, consumables for sanding, body filler and the like. Given this is a dealership that seems to have an inhouse body shop, most likely someone felt sorry for the poor girl that got one of the most valuable possessions she owns damaged by some random goober. Quit trying to cheap out, contact your insurance company if you don't want to fork over the cash and suck it the gently caress up buttercup. Paint and bodywork is expensive, its just the way it is.
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Apr 27, 2016 02:22
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GOTTA STAY FAI posted:I bought a 1994 Ford Ranger a while back to haul tools and supplies around my investment properties--I never really intended to take it any farther than across town and back. Recently, a friend got a great job offer a thousand miles away, and she's offered to pay me to haul some furniture down to her new apartment for her. I took the truck into my mechanic to have him give it a checkup to see if it could make the 16+ hour trip safely, and he told me that my front bearings needed replaced before I left, to the tune of $1,100. Get a new mechanic and a second opinion at another shop. Rotor and hub assembly bullshit is annoying to deal with, but there is no legit reason to charge that much.
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May 4, 2016 07:13
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Alternately, replace it with a marine style battry terminal.
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May 15, 2016 02:26
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Shooting Blanks posted:This is probably a very dumb question, but are battery posts a standard size? I'd love to cancel the order for a $40 terminal clamp and get a cheaper marine battery clamp off Amazon if it'll work - but I don't want to delay the fix if it's not going to fit. Generally yes, however keep in mind that a positive and negative terminal will be different sizes, so you'll want a pack with both in it. Also, just run up to the nearest parts store. They should have them sitting on a rack for $5-7.
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May 17, 2016 07:17
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Enourmo posted:So my alternators on its way out in the protégé. Any particular brands to avoid for replacement? Nab one from whatever parts store will give you a lifetime warranty without a hassle. Any reman has some level of risk. '05 avalanche 1500 What are my options for replacing a steering wheel and retaining steering wheel controls and an airbag? I know grant has a few options that look decent without being to "OMGRACE CAR STEERING WHEEL", but I seem to recall something about their steering wheels being complete poo poo in the event of an accident. Am I stuck hunting for a halfway decent one out of a junkyard?
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Jun 5, 2016 01:43
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Its likely tiered as the cheapest being organics/poor quality semi-metallics, the next being whatever was oe on your vehicle and the top being a decent quality ceramic. Usually you can see some lettering on the back of the pad indicating the cold and hot performance of the pads. But basically, pay for a decent ceramic and they'll last longer than a cheap organic, be quieter and stop much better. Edit: I least assuming advance does it similar to us. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 05:33 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 05:30
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Ceramics provide a better all around performance and last longer with a good quality semi-metallic only being better for heavy duty applications like towing by reason of retaining less heat. If they are raybestos or wagner, they have a part number on the back of the pad that ends in two letters. The first letter is the coefficient of friction while cold, the second is the hot measurement. A is the lowest, with the coefficient increasing as you go up the alphabet. This is all according to the educational bullshit that raybestos, bosch. wagner and pfc put out for us, so take it as you will.  Edit: I'm a few beer deep so I may double check this tomorrow. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jun 5, 2016 |
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Jun 5, 2016 06:08
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a worthy uhh posted:'10 Mazda3 2.5L with some grinding noises and wobbling noises coming from the front passenger side, gets significantly worse with a passenger. Are you certain he called it a carrier bearing and not a hub assembly or wheel bearing?
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Jun 23, 2016 03:15
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Orvin posted:I have a question about new car pricing. My wife has been looking at getting a new Nissan Altima. She found a dealership with Internet prices that are about $2500 less than the next closest dealership internet price. I checked the dealership listings, and it isn't just a single vehicle in that trim level that is at that price, they all are. We are talking $17.3k vs $19.8k for vehicles that sticker at about $26k. They'll likely be trying to make it up in various "dealer services and fees". The low price gets you in through the door, but you still wind up paying the same amount. I'd honestly avoid the dealership if they're trying tactics like that before you even enter the door.
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Jul 1, 2016 06:53
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Geirskogul posted:$5 O'Reilly oil change kit pan spotted. I don't know whats worse, that you noticed it or that I didn't despite working there. Also, at least you seperate it kastien, plenty have tried giving it to us full of antifreeze or water necessitating us taking a good whiff. Any contamination means the disposal company can refuse to pick it up if they want to be shitheads.
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Jul 5, 2016 23:58
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Javid posted:My car battery turns five this month and has been slowly dying, so it's time for retirement. Walmart says these batteries fit my car. Is there any reason not to get the brand that's half as much as all the others? IIRC, Its been remanufactured by Johnson Controls, which isn't terrible. My serious advice is to buy the battery with the longest full replacement warranty you can reasonably afford. That warranty is pretty much them telling you how long they expect the battery to last. Most one year batteries are the "I'm strapped for cash and need a battery right the gently caress now" and generally should be treated as such.
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Aug 4, 2016 06:57
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Krakkles posted:Does anyone have a source for a wiring diagram for the (power) driver seat from a Honda Accord Crosstour? I believe it's from a 2013, based in part numbers, but I'd accept anything. If nobody has done this by tuesday, I will nab a copy while at work.
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Aug 8, 2016 02:53
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pahuyuth posted:The passenger turn signal/brake light is out (and all the others are fast-blinking) on my daughter's 2006 Chevy Malibu due to a blown brake light socket. I got a replacement socket (well, sort of... it's just a generic socket but the parts store said it should work with the bulb), but it has 3 wires whereas the original blown socket has 5 wire leads. The replacement has 3 white wires, labelled A,B,C and the original has 4 black wires, one green and I can barely make out A,B,C on the socket itself. Likely not. Those sockets are intended for simple replacements where its just the basic plug or you are adding in a light somewhere and need a socket. You might hit up a local junkyard for the harness for a quick solution.
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Aug 25, 2016 00:39
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Mine is definitely going to be on the more expensive side. There's an antenna built into it. Porcelin off of a spark plug will spider web it pretty good. An experienced tech will probably know what you did. I also cracked mine from the inside by chucking my phone in anger while dealing with AAA's roadside assistance. Told the insurace company my phone hit it during an emergency stop, they said ok and replaced it for free. Ymmv. All of the above is probably illegal.
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Sep 10, 2016 06:45
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Booley posted:
You can take them off with a standard ratchet and socket, but you likely have a spare with a jack and a lug wrench that will work better due to being longer, giving you more leverage. They are torqued from 75-110 ft/lbs, so expect to have to put some heft behind it. Also, break the lugs loose and apply your parking brake/e-brake before lifting the vehicle. When putting the wheel back on, thread the lugs on by hand and get them snugged up as much as possible before putting the vehicle back on the ground. Since you appear to have a 5 lug wheel, go in a star pattern when tightening to get the wheel seated properly. Then let the vehicle back down and finish tightening the lug nuts. You can do this with a standard ratchet or lug wrench, but if you have a nearby parts store you can opt to rent a torque wrench instead of buying one. Most of the time its a deposit that is returned in full once you return the tool. You just have to look up your torque specs and you'll be set! Also, Hi booley! 
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Sep 22, 2016 03:25
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RobBorer posted:I'm driving down the road and my radio and gauges turn off. I pull over and shut the car off. It won't start. I get a buddy to bring a spare battery, and I drive it home. While the car is running, I disconnect the battery, and it immediately shuts off. OK, bad alternator, I assume. Oh hey, one I can actually help with. The most common bench tester we'll have in a parts store will test the alternator with no load on it. This means you can have an alternator test fine on the bench and fail in a vehicle when there is a load on it. The handheld tester for taking out to a car has a few different other tests it can run if the guy operating it knows what to look for, but we are given 0 training on these and aren't expected to know it or perform them. What gierskol mentions is also entirely possible. Yours is an edge case, but I have seen this exact situation come up 2-3 times in the last year and a half. Battery test tends to be a bit more accurate on the bench tester since it will look for dead cells, put a load on it and the like, while that handheld unit will not. Source: I work in a parts store. Sometimes poo poo fucks up and/or we make mistakes.
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Sep 24, 2016 20:23
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Salt Fish posted:Do you recall names? I would love to hear about their experiences. A full search of the forums turns up relatively little about the practical ownership of one. In particular I'm curious what the aluminum construction means for long term maintenance and the viability of owning one long term. From what I recall, due to the construction, any damage to the rear clamshell will make it a write off since its  to fix. Aside from that, I've only seen them a couple times in the wild and dream of one day owning one.
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Sep 27, 2016 08:41
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Christobevii3 posted:Oreilly's can probably mix the paint in a pint/quart. See if they can based off of a car year model and make. If not move to a local car repair shop. Unless you live in florida where state law prohibits us from mixing paint, along with autozone and advanced auto. Some paint places like finishmasters and some sherman williams can also mix automotive paint. Just remember that prep is massively important to getting a good paint job.
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Oct 2, 2016 10:04
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BitBasher posted:Sounds like I'm in the right place then. I'll try to get better photos and post a thread tomorrow. In a nutshell I have (some of) a 66 Chevelle that I want to be able to drive comfortably and ultimately run in the Silver State Classic Challenge at increasingly unwise speeds. [Desire to know more intensifies]
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Oct 8, 2016 08:42
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:They're all made by like two companies, Johnson Controls and the other one that isn't Optima. Deka/east penn is the other company you're thinking of. Exide also makes their own batteries, but they are poo. Also, johnson controls owns optima and optima's quality has bounced back nicely after some hiccups due to moving manufacturing plants. You don't need an optima though.
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Oct 15, 2016 07:57
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DrakeriderCa posted:My chebby has a (possible) problem: Mine had a noticible tick from 75k miles on. It would get more pronounced in the last 1000 miles before an oil change, but I never had any issues. Otoh, yours is the fancy version with displacement on demand and vvt gubbins iirc. In either case, check your fluid levels and if need be, automotive stethescopes are a thing. We keep 'em in stock at work since they are handy for listening to bearings. v v
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Oct 18, 2016 10:15
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04 Mazda 6 Sportwagon w/ 3.0L V6 No check engine light, possible pending codes unknown. Checking this tomorrow at work. I recently replaced the pcv valve, pcv hose, upper plenum gasket, back 3 ignition coils and all 6 plugs with new ngk platinum plugs. While putting the intake manifold back on, I snapped the far passenger side bolt. A generous helping of red rtv was globbed on, seafoam run through the intake and the car has run like a top for the last 3 weeks. This monday I got an oil change and tuesday installed a strip of led lights. On a test drive afterwards, it ran smooth as it had been since the plugs and assorted work was done. This morning while driving into town to vote and run errands, it started surging when I would come to a stop at lights, stop signs, etc. It became worse the longer the car ran and the hotter it got. However above 1k rpms, the issue disappears. This car apparently doesn't have an IACV, so the obvious things to check are MAF sensor and check for a vacuum leak, correct? Also, I've read some stuff about cleaning the throttle bodies on these cars helping with these engines, but I'm not sure if you can just push it down with a screw driver without causing the throttle position sensor to freak out and it doesn't work like a gm vehicle where having the vehicle on without the engine running will let you open the throttle butterfly by pressing the loud pedal. Is there anything else I should check and is it possible to just press the throttle butterfly down? Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 07:27 on Oct 27, 2016 |
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Oct 27, 2016 07:24
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For those that are interested, I'm pretty sure I found the vacuum leak. The molded pcv elbow had split in half due to the super stiff replacement hose I put on 3 weeks ago. It had a 3/8ths sized hole in the side of it. Bodged with more of the super stiff hose I used before to get me to work tomorrow. Here is hopin'.
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Oct 28, 2016 07:05
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DavidAlltheTime posted:Hey thanks! I'll check it out tomorrow. Don't worry, asking questions is how you learn!
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Nov 11, 2016 08:32
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Some engine degreaser, parts wash or good ol brake cleaner/carb cleaner would probably do the trick. Or you know, panther piss.
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Nov 12, 2016 06:40
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tactlessbastard posted:I get the vague feeling i'm getting scammed on craigslist but I can't see the risk with my method but my wife is pretty antsy. Its a scam. A common one at that.
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Nov 30, 2016 23:21
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I keep some basic boo boo stuff, plus several one shot cheapo super glue tubes. Emergency stitches for when I inevitably gack myself open... again. Nail glue also works well. The scar on my palm that was a 4" long cut down into the fatty tissue of my palm that I joined with nail glue is neater than my actual surgery scar on my arm done with proper stitches. (I was broke with no insurance and no desire for more unpaid medical bill collectors calling. )
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Dec 5, 2016 06:32
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blk posted:Keeping me up at night: how do you rotate tires on an AMG 6x6? You buy all new ones because you're rich as gently caress and they probably dry rot before they wear enough to be an issue.
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Dec 15, 2016 07:46
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