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2006 Honda Accord 4 cylinder EX-L. Problem with a P0139 code. I posted in the last thread that in early January the check engine light came on and Autozone gave me the above code (plus another dealing with AB-S, code 61-1). I unplugged the battery, hooked it back up, and drove probably 1500 miles with no problems. The CEL light came on again 2 weeks ago, so I figured it was the O2 sensor (the one underneath the heat shield by the cat). I bought the part off Amazon, replaced it last week, and it was driving fine. I pulled the battery cable off again in order to reset the CEL. I've been driving it fine with no problems (average 50 miles/day, so a total of maybe 200-250 miles). Then this past Friday, the CEL came on again, so between me pulling the battery cable after I installed the new O2 sensor, I'm guessing I had around 200 miles on it. Brought it back to Autozone today-P0139 code again. What else could be the problem? It's been brutally cold here in New England, so I'm wondering if moisture on the sensor is causing it to gently caress up maybe? Anything else I'm missing? Oddly, the other code went away this time and only the P0139 code popped up.
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Feb 16, 2015 16:48
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nwin posted:2006 Honda Accord 4 cylinder EX-L. I've driven 75 miles so far and no CEL yet. I wonder if I'm in the clear. However, it hasn't been negative degrees outside lately, so I wonder if that has anything to do with it.
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Feb 19, 2015 00:44
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I figure you guys have experience buying cars privately, so I think this is the best place to put this. Some background: My wife and I are getting a divorce. Both cars are currently in my name but I'm giving her one of them (which is paid off and I have the title for). Here's the hard part: Current plates are Arizona (as is the title), and we live in Massachusetts (which is ok because I'm military and AZ is my home of record). She's moving down to North Carolina. For title transfer, what is going to have to occur? I see on the title I can fill out the transfer of ownership and have that notarized. Can I just do that, then she can drive the car down to North Carolina and register the car in that state, getting herself new plates? It says the buyer (her) has 15 days to transfer ownership, so I'm trying to see the best way to do this. I'm trying to think of everything here-she'll be coming off my insurance and establishing her own (with the same company if that makes things easier) policy. What's the best way to do this? Would it be better for her to drive down there on my insurance (which she could still be on for this purpose) and then once she's down there I send her the title and let her register/get insurance in her own name? Or should we transfer the title up in MA, get new insurance for her, then she drives down to NC (literally the next day) and gets plates/registers the car down there with title in hand? Or something else I'm not thinking of? edit: She'll be towing the car behind a U-haul, so she won't physically be driving the car until she gets down south, if that alleviates anything. nwin fucked around with this message at 01:27 on Mar 3, 2015 |
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Mar 3, 2015 01:22
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Stupid insurance question: My wife was backing up the car and hit the mailbox. The right rear quarter panel is dented and paint is gone. It's a 2011 Ford Explorer. She took it to a body shop and they said it would be over 500 to repair it with paint and dent removal, etc...I think they were going to replace the body panel. Anyways, my insurance deductible is $500 for collision and adds 350 to my annual premium. There's another deductible that is for theft and 'other than collision' which is only $300 and adds 90 to my premium. Would this fall under collision even though it wasn't an accident with another car?
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Mar 26, 2015 22:19
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've always understood it to be where collision is what pays you if you do damage to your own car (i.e. this scenario) and comprehensive covers you for situations where it wasn't your fault, but there's not necessarily another party to blame. You're right on that-i was reading it wrong. I pay 350 a year for that coverage.
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Mar 26, 2015 23:10
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lol internet. posted:Is it possible for a car battery to be completely drained to the point you cannot jump start it? one of the negatives is connected to the live battery, correct? Not acting like I know much, but one time I tried jumping a dodge truck with my civic and it wouldn't work. Then another truck came along and it jumped it fine. Maybe my battery wasn't strong enough? I don't know. I've had trouble jumping batteries before, though...and sometimes I'll let the live car run (while it's connected to the dead battery with cables) for a few minutes and then try, and that seems to help.
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Apr 26, 2015 00:42
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I need some new tires but I'm not sure to go with winter or all seasons. I have a 2015 Mazda 3 hatchback itouring 6 speed manual model with the stock Bridgestone ecopia tires and last year they sucked in the small amount of snow we got (Boston, MA). The two years prior to that, I had a Honda Accord with some continental all seasons and it did fine in the snow, even when we had a lot more of it. Now I know it's two different cars and the Honda was probably heavier, but the Bridgestone has lovely snow ratings. Now I'm at 26k miles and am thinking of getting a set of Steel rims and some dedicated winter tires, or just trading in the lovely all season OEM bridgestones for a better all season tire. Any advice? I'd rather not spend $6-700 plus now on winter tires and then in the summer have to spend another 5-800 on new all season tires, but if other all seasons are going to ride just as bad as the bridgestones in the snow on this car, then maybe I need to.
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Dec 5, 2016 13:25
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2008 Saturn vue with the 4 cylinder 2.4. It has 115k miles on it and always got the normal oil changes, I just changed the spark plugs but it probably needs the transmission fluid changed. Anyways, it has a few random squeaks now and I'm not sure what it could be. Most recently, after a 3 hour drive, when we turned into the gas station it just sounded like it was squeaking pretty bad when we turned the wheel. I don't think anything related to shocks but more the steering system? It was coming from the front of the car but that's all I know. Also, for a long time, when the wheel gets turned slightly to the left or right, there's an oscillating sound I'm thinking might have to do with the brakes. It's kind of like if you had a rim on a bike that's slightly out of true and you put it on a truing stand and once per revolution it hits the metal, that's the sound it makes. I'm probably going to have to take it to a mechanic to really find out, but any shots in the dark as to what could be wrong? Also, for the first problem-could the chassis or something else potentially just need lubed up? I remember when I brought other cars in for service they would say lube the chassis as part of the tune-up, and I've just been bringing it to jiffy lube for oil changes so I doubt they have been doing that. Just wondering if I can also request some basic tune up that won't charge an arm and a leg to fix everything. Also, I was quoted $225 for the transmission fluid to be changed-Rip off or average cost for this?
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May 21, 2017 15:31
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0toShifty posted:Check that your power steering fluid level is okay. If it's a bit low - things can act weird. Thanks for the reply! The brake dust shields...you might be right on that and it seems like it should be easy enough to check out. I didn't know about new cars not needing to be lubed up. I just remembered seeing it as part of "101 point inspections" at dealerships and stuff. Still not sure on a transmission flush/drain and fill. I've heard it's best to just drain and fill it consecutive with 2 or 3 oil changes in a row. That's what I did with my Accord when it hit 100k miles, and after 3 transmission drain/fills you're basically sure you've got about 90% new oil in there and that should be more than good enough.
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May 23, 2017 00:37
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Two questions: 1) 2016 Subaru Forester-I want to get a remote start installed. Does it matter if I go through a subaru OEM or aftermarket? It's still under warranty with only 10k on it, so I'm not sure if that plays a part. 2) wife's car, 2008 Saturn Vue. The rotors are looking rusted and wasted on their perimeter and it seems they need replaced, as well as the brake pads. What's a reasonable estimate to pay for 4 new disc rotors and pads?
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Jul 27, 2017 01:07
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Possible exhaust leak question: 2008 Saturn Vue with the 4 cylinder engine and 120k miles on it. Driven entirely in New England for the last 5 years by my wife-before that, I'm not sure where it was driven. I brought the car in for the Massachusetts state inspection today and the mechanic said it passed, but there was an exhaust leak I need to get checked out. All he said was that it was coming from the front right of the car-he started it up for me and, without opening the hood, just pointed towards the passenger headlight area and I did hear some kind of leak...not necessarily hissing like high pressure, just more like what you hear out of a normal exhaust/muffler if that makes any sense. Going off that horribly vague description, any ideas? I know my wife bought it off a used car lot her dad worked at and only the bare minimum maintenance (really just oil changes) has been done since she bought it 5 years ago (she bought it with about 75k miles on it...she rarely drives it anymore). I know she never really used to wash it during the winter, because it has some spots on the car (door panels) where the paint is bubbling up and I'm guessing that's salt damage, so who knows how bad the undercarriage is. Over the last two years I've ensured we wash the undercarriage a few times during the winter to get rid of the salt. Appreciate any advice/insight before I take it to a mechanic. If it passed inspection this time, it leads me to believe that the leak might not be too bad yet, or else I would have some kind of engine codes popping up saying that the right mixture isn't going past the O2 sensor or something, but I'm not anywhere near an expert on this stuff.
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Jun 5, 2018 17:27
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Dennis McClaren posted:Sounds like it could possibly be your exhaust manifold has a leak, or rusted out perhaps. Sometimes header bolts can warp and expand causing your exhaust to make noise from the front of your car near where it was pointed out to you. This is great info-thank you. Googling the issue says either exhaust manifold or the gasket. I just took a look under the hood, but there's so much plastic covering everything up, I removed what I could and then it looks like even the manifold appears to have some kind of plastic covering on it, so that's where I stopped. A few of the bolts had some rust on them, so I didn't bother trying to tighten them down (some people online said 1/4-1/2 turn tighten on each bolt could solve the issue, but some people said they snapped the heads off when trying it with rusted bolts). I'll reach out to STR and see what he has to say-I didn't even think about an exhaust/muffler shop instead of a general mechanic-that's a great idea. I don't mind doing work on it myself too much if it doesn't require taking the whole thing apart, but I'm clueless on how to look for a leak. Some research said to use seafoam or something similar and that will expose a leak quickly, but I'm hesitant to use that on a car with 120k with minimal maintenance done on it. Also I don't detect any exhaust smell in the cabin and moving my hand around the engine bay when the engine was on, I couldn't feel any puffs or air from the exhaust, though I couldn't reach much of the manifold. nwin fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jun 5, 2018 |
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Jun 5, 2018 18:09
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STR posted:So yeah... following up on nwin's PM - the exhaust manifold is on the firewall side. Dennis has good advice about going to an exhaust shop, but you can at least look for the leak yourself. Remove the plastic engine cover, get on the drivers side with the engine running (away from the belts - don't want your hair, shirt, fingers, etc getting caught in anything), and just listen for pfft pfft noises. It'll help if you turn off the ac before starting the engine - that way the cooling fan shouldn't be running. I'm not sure if it's actually an exhaust leak at this point. I checked the air filter housing cover, and aside from one of the screws being nearly completely rusted out, the cover is on correctly. The sound that I hear when I'm listening near the passenger headlight is the serpentine belt going around...definitely not a hissing or puffing sound though, or even a squeaking sound like I've heard on some belts before. I moved my hand around the back of the engine bay and didn't hear anything like a pfft noise. I'll check again tomorrow when I have some more time. The serpentine belt doesn't appear to be cracked or rotted. If anything, the exterior of it looks shiny, kind of like when brakes get glazed over?
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Jun 6, 2018 21:24
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But the 2nd gen Vue is just a rebadged Chevy Equinox with slightly different lights (the 1st gen borrowed a drivetrain from Honda for the V6 models though, and actually had plastic body panels and Saturn-esque styling, though it was still essentially an Equinox).
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2008 Saturn vue with 130k miles has a problem with its rear brake light. I noticed a week ago that the drivers side brake light was out. I bought a pair of replacement lights, one for each side, and replaced them both, figuring that if the drivers side was out, it wouldn’t be long until the passenger side went. Today someone pulled up to me and side the drivers side was still out. Note: I didn’t bother checking when I replaced the bulb to see if it worked-whoops. Now, could this be a fuse problem? The way I’m reading online is that the fuse usually controls both lights, so I’m wondering if it’s a wiring issue or something else.
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Nov 23, 2019 22:33
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Geoj posted:If it uses a 3175 (dual filament combination tail/brake/signal bulb) its possible you have the base inserted backwards. It uses 3157LL
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Nov 23, 2019 23:25
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Is there an electrical/wiring thread or should I just post here? I bought an aftermarket remote start for my 2008 Saturn vue that was “plug and play” but the instructions have me splicing wires and I’m not entirely sure what to do. I think it’s because the car has passlock. Note: it doesn’t have me cutting into the car’s harness...yet, just cutting the harness they provided.
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Jan 10, 2020 22:26
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Bank posted:If I were you I'd read the rest of the instructions to see what's up. Hopefully its just like a radio harness where you splice things outside of the car then just plug everything in. Here’s the instructions:  Just a wiring diagram. On the other side it shows that the pink wire on the car’s harness is the ignition and the white/black wire is the passlock. Here’s the harness they supplied with their VS3 cut off and those two wires exposed:  And here’s the car’s harness showing the black/white wire and the pink wire, but it still goes into the plastic connector:  So what do I do from here? I can’t stick the harness’s exposed wire into the black plastic connector on the car’s harness, right? That doesn’t seem like it would make a good connection. The only other thoughts are exposing some of the wire on the car’s harness before that connector and tying the remote start in that way.
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Jan 11, 2020 01:07
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Krakkles posted:Yeah, you can't just stick that in the connector. You'll need to splice it in using either solder or crimps. This is actually pretty easy to do, but daunting the first time. Are there more instructions? It looks like there's a 4 in a triangle near the top of that sheet that might indicate some relevant instructions. Haha yeah I noticed the 4, looked everywhere to see what it referenced, and found nothing.
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Jan 11, 2020 01:59
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Krakkles posted:It definitely looks like some stuff is missing. But: Good catch on the wire colors-the white/black is on the car side and it matches to a yellow on the harness side I think-is have to double check in the morning. That being said-I don’t think I want to cut into the car’s harness for this. Like you said, if I gently caress this up, then I can’t start the car until it’s fixed, and that’s not worth it to me. I might either have this installed or just return this thing.
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Jan 11, 2020 03:08
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I didn’t see any kind of waxing/car-washing thread so here goes: I don’t have a lot of time to detail my car (a newborn and a toddler take most of my time) but I want to get rid of some scratches and a few chips on the hood. I try and hand wash the car once a month. Here’s a link to some pictures. I don’t think they’re too deep but I’m not sure the best course of action. I didn’t take pictures of the chips but they are very small (like the size of a panko bread crumb) and I guess Dr. Colorchip is the way to go for those. Anyways-what’s the best bang for the buck in fixing these scratches? I don’t think any of them are too deep. https://imgur.com/gallery/gRNsRt1
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Jun 3, 2021 01:26
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Powershift posted:There is a Detailing Thread that should be able to get you going. Thanks!
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Jun 3, 2021 01:34
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2017 Lexus gs350. Per the manual, it requires 91 octane gas. Like a dumbass who has only driven normal cars requiring 87 octane, I always just assumed the middle selection at gas stations would be “premium”. However I’ve noticed some stations have 87, 89, and 93. Whole others have 87, 91, and 93. I’ve filled it up with 89 the last two fills. Next time I’ll put 93 in it once I get it down to 3/4 tank but how hosed is this?
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Jul 3, 2021 14:29
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DildenAnders posted:AWD systems depend on wheel speed sensor inputs and are extremely sensitive to wheel diameter. Unfortunately they are telling you the truth, though 3 tires is a lot cheaper than a new AWD transfer case. So I’ve always heard to replace them all. When I had a forester, I caught something in my sidewall and all four tires needed replacing, even though they only had about 15k miles on them. They also refused to shave a new tire down and several other places said the same. When I bought my Lexus AWD gs350, they tried to sell me a rim and tire warranty. I asked them if they would replace all four tires in the event something similar to the above happened and they looked at me like I was crazy and that there was no reason to replace all four tires. I declined the warranty. I dunno if it’s the type of AWD each car has or if the Lexus dealership was just clueless or something else.
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Jul 7, 2021 23:03
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At the dealership with my 2019 Toyota rav 4 with 13k miles for its 15k free service. They recommended: Alignment $115 Brake fluid flush $150 MAF sensor cleaning $85 Throttle body cleaning $120 I can see doing the alignment but the other stuff seems like a rip off to me? Googling shows I can do the two cleanings with a $5 can of spray from autozone. So am I right? The cars never been off-road and while it hesitates at acceleration, it’s a slow car in general.
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Jul 30, 2021 15:15
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Today it was cooler than it’s been since I bought my car and the low pressure light came in for 3/4 of my tires. I bought it used and it has green caps on the valve stems, so I assume it’s nitrogen filled. This afternoon 2 of them were still low (rear tires as 31 psi). The dealership I bought it from is far enough away and I’m a ways off from the next maintenance. Can I just fill it with normal air to top it off? I’ve never looked, but I don’t recall seeing a nitrogen fill station anywhere.
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Sep 2, 2021 23:39
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Well I learned something today-thanks! I thought I read something that if you get nitrogen you don’t have to top off your tires/air doesn’t leak out as easily. Welp, time to use my air compressor.
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Sep 3, 2021 00:26
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Used my air compressor to top off my tires and nothing exploded-thanks guys.
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Sep 3, 2021 15:57
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The Wonder Weapon posted:My nearest Costco is 100 miles away. Apparently I'm missing out. I do get Wegmans, though Why the gently caress do people go crazy over Wegmans? The produce sucks 9/10 times, steak is overpriced, and a lot of the store brand options blow.
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Sep 6, 2021 20:37
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Motronic posted:Because for some of us our options are Acme, Giant or Wegmans. It's clearly the best of those three at least around here. Lucky you on the butcher. I go to Costco for my meat. Giant and Wegmans is neck and neck around here but I will admit that giant is way more expensive and you have to shop the ads to come out ahead.
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Sep 7, 2021 01:04
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17 Lexus gs350 with 45k miles. It was just inspected, had its 45k service done about two months ago. The battery is dead for the second time in three weeks. During the maintenance they said the battery was fine (well the sticker says green next to battery and tires). I don’t drive much. I haven’t driven it since Monday (now Saturday) and that was for about an hour. Prior to that I’d taken a few 45 minute trips. anyways, it’s 20 degrees out so I’m thinking the cold plus it possibly being a 6 year old battery (I bought it CPO with 40k miles 8 months ago) plus not driving much means it either needs replaced or charged. Good ways to check? If I jump it it starts up pretty quick. I have a multimeter if that’s any help.
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Feb 5, 2022 18:30
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GOD IS BED posted:At 6 years old, unless your battery is an AGM, your battery is almost certainly dead. You can use a multimeter to check the charge level of the battery (should be 12.6 or higher if good), but to get a true test on the battery, you have to load test the battery. Any auto parts store or battery store should be able to do that for free, but from what you describe I'm 99% sure it's your dead battery. The cold weather probably finished it off. I just checked the date and the battery is from august 2020. I’ll check the charge with a multimeter but will that be any good with a dead battery or do I need to jump it first?
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Feb 5, 2022 19:02
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GOD IS BED posted:Probably not, the battery will be low if it can't start your Lexus. Jump it, drive it for thirty minutes (not just idle), turn the engine off and test it. If it reads above 12.5, wait an hour and test it again to see if it is draining quickly. If it still seems good, let it sit and test it the next day. Thanks. I learned my multimeter sucks. It’s got 10 or 250 V for DC. It took a bit to jump it. I tried right after connecting the cables with the other car running and it took about a minute before my car finally turned over. Drove it for 40 minutes and it pinned the dial at 10v and at 250 setting it was at 18 which seems high…or I’m not reading correctly. Waited an hour and I got the same readings. A new multimeter is coming tomorrow.
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Feb 5, 2022 22:40
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nwin posted:Thanks. I learned my multimeter sucks. It’s got 10 or 250 V for DC. It took a bit to jump it. I tried right after connecting the cables with the other car running and it took about a minute before my car finally turned over. So 24 hours later and the old multimeter still pins the needle at 10v. At 250v it was higher, around 20v today. New digital multimeter shows 11.9v today.
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Feb 6, 2022 22:05
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Raluek posted:in nwin's case, i would suggest further diagnostics. ok, it's under 12V when sitting, that's bad. but it could be due to a parasitic draw in the electrical system, or an alternator that isn't charging it properly. Going to get the battery checked tomorrow but I ran the ammeter with the clamp on it before and after I uninstalled my remote start. Before: https://i.imgur.com/Mgsxohz.jpg After: https://i.imgur.com/lIqZlbF.jpg
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Feb 8, 2022 23:21
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Raluek posted:>1.5A draw from a remote start? yeah that'll do it Is the 1.12A draw I’m still experiencing “acceptable” or should I continue the hunt for draining items? The only other thing I’ve done to this car is install an aftermarket CarPlay add on. No reports on the web of this specific brand contributing to any drainage issues. Also, would the 1.5A draw from the remote start be acceptable if I were driving every day?
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Feb 9, 2022 12:37
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I think you guys might be on to Something… I opened the hood, closed the doors, put the key fob in the house and waited 25 minutes. Here’s where we sit:  Does that translate to 80 milliamps?
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Feb 9, 2022 14:32
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Thanks. I went to advance auto and had them check everything including a load test. Alternator and battery both were fine, just the battery was undercharged- I think he said the battery is rated for 540 CCA but only putting out 350CCA currently.
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Feb 9, 2022 15:43
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STR posted:540 is a pretty small battery for any car. Yep, just something that looked like a really fat tablet.
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Feb 9, 2022 18:50
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Charles posted:Yup, agree with STR. False good is too easy with those. There is some value to them, as if it tests bad and you're having problems, then that is pretty much right. Kind of like a covid rapid test Well this isn’t helping anything. What’s my other option here? Find a auto store which has the bigger tester?
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Feb 9, 2022 19:07
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So stupid question. If I'm going to pull fuses while seeing if the ammeter changes, would this be a good guess: If it's pulling 700 milliamps currently, should it only be fuses marked 7A and below that I should pull? Apparently I've got four fuse boxes in this thing and after a quick glance the fuses seem to range between 5A up to 40+A. Do I need to pull them all or could I limit it to a certain range of fuses?
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Feb 9, 2022 19:37
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