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PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002
2001 suburban 1500 5.3L 2wd

My driver's side power seats stopped working. The lumbar supports still inflate and stuff. That switch is right next to the seat slider switches. I tried disconnecting the negative battery terminal in case it was a circuit breaker that was tripped (is that how you reset them?). Not sure what else to do/try.

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PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002

rdb posted:

I had this problem with my 2006 Silverado. It wound up being a shoddy connection in the harness under the drivers seat. GM routed a lot of amperage through the connector and after a while the connection went to poo poo. I just cut the offending black wire off both sides and spliced it together. Try wiggling it and seeing if that restores function, or look for obvious signs of burn.

Thanks, I'll give this a look in the morning when it cools off.


Also, I just drove to work, and my stock ac delco radio wouldn't turn on. It's getting juice-- if i press the hour or minute button the clock turns on for about 3 seconds. I'd assume this is theftlock but it doesn't say "LOC" or whatever. But i did just disconnect the negative battery terminal and that was the first time I cranked it. Maybe the add-a-fuse is loose and the clock itself is on a separate circuit that always has juice? It's also weird because this wasn't an issue when I replaced the battery terminal bolts when I installed my ham radio a few months ago.

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002
2001 suburban. stock delco radio. A few weeks ago I disconnected the negative battery terminal while troubleshooting a broken power seat, and somehow blew the radio's fuse. I replaced it and all was well. This morning I decided to listen to FM radio instead of my phone through the tape deck. It was silent. AM radio "works" (I hear static as normal, I don't normally pick up AM in the morning here.). Is this more likely to be a loose antenna connector or a bad tuner?

sidenote: I'm pretty sure I tested FM when I replaced the fuse, but it's quite possible that I didn't and it's been messed up this whole time.

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002
2012 accord ex-l

What is this gasket thing called? And is it vehicle specific? It's melting in the sun, only on the driver's side (normally faces east all day in the mid-south), and it turns into this nasty sticky tar poo poo that gets everywhere. I'm assuming water is now getting in too.

Is this an easy DIY fix or should I take it to the dealership an hour+ away?

PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Sep 1, 2015

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002
I think I probably need new tires. I bought these in july 2013 with 145622 on the odometer. almost 3 years and 27,000 miles later they look pretty lovely. I had one blow out on me already at 30mph or so after an hour of interstate driving and replaced it a few months ago at a pro-rated price (obviously the one with all the tread on it). Is this quick wear just a result of a) cheap tires, b) underinflation/not rotating frequently enough, c) bad alignment or something like that, d) unrealistic expectations for middlin' tier tires or e) all of the above? The 2001 suburban they're on has been in a couple collisions but nothing major. Last time I put tires on they had to replace a ball joint or something like that, I honestly don't remember. Front passenger side IIRC. It was less than $100 for the part and labor though.

I just put some yokohama's on my wife's 2012 accord last week and they made a huge difference. I don't mind putting good tires on the suburban too, but I don't want to do that if they're going to wear prematurely. The suburban, for the past 8 years or so, has been the "I'm only going to keep it another year or so" vehicle that keeps on ticking and won't die. It's 2wd and other than my gravel parking pad, it doesn't spend hardly any time off road.

http://imgur.com/a/YC9uU


edit: the reason this came up is I had a low tire, again. down to like 17psi. Filled it up and I'll see if it'll hold for any length of time.

PuTTY riot fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Mar 16, 2016

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002

Godholio posted:

The tire(s) in your picture are not worn, they have a TON of tread left. I'm not sure what you're talking about, really. If you're worried about your alignment, take it to a place that can check. It's cheap or free. Pay attention to your tire pressure and don't rely on the sensors (TPMS is one of the dumbest loving nanny ideas in modern vehicles).

Thanks. I think I'm just paranoid after I had the one blow out on me.

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002


Trying to find a fuse to tap for my dashcam on my 2012 accord passenger side fuse box. Rear accessory and the one below it both appear to be always hot. The cig lighter is definitely switched though.

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002
2014 Honda Odyssey

I want to add an always on power connection. I do ham radio stuff and also would like to use an inverter that pulls more than 10 amps. I know that on newer vehicles you can't go direct to the battery because of some sensor. What's the right way to do this?

Also, is there a grommet or hole already in the firewall that would accommodate 12 or 10 awg zip cord?

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002

IOwnCalculus posted:

I have never heard of anything like this.

All the same, the easiest way is to use an add-a-circuit to branch off at the fuse box. However, that might not be rated for enough current to support your inverter.

http://www.k0bg.com/wiring.html

Now that I'm looking at it again and see the diagram, it appears the main difference is I go to chassis ground instead of the negative battery terminal

PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002
Is upgrading my 2012 accord's lovely headlights to this a terrible coffee-can-exhaust-tier idea? Is there a better choice? I have OEM HIDs on my Odyssey now and they're great. Driving the accord at night feels like I'm using my iphone flashlight to see on unlit county roads.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TgRmdkJuKXM

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PuTTY riot
Nov 16, 2002

Enourmo posted:

I always laugh when those guys show off how great their headlights are by shining them point blank on a wall. Cause that's where you need to see, right, up close?

Most if not all aftermarket headlight "upgrade" kits have lovely beam patterns that spray tons of light up in the air (blinding oncoming drivers), down onto the road (lighting up the grey asphalt and ruining your night vision) and off to the sides (where your car isn't about to be), without actually lighting up directly ahead (you know, where the obstacles are?) any better than stock headlights. Without rigorous testing under identical conditions, photographed with identical exposure settings, I wouldn't dare trust any makers' claims about "10x better illumination" or whatever.

Get a set of high-performance halogens, like Phillips Extreme Power, and be done with it.

Side note: "DOT APPROVED" just means the physical bulbs meet the size/connector specification to be labeled 9006 or whatever, it absolutely does not mean any regulatory agency has approved the kit for road use.

Thanks. I’ll go this route. I live in a state with no inspections anymore so I’m familiar with the ugly aftermarket HIDs. Was hoping the LEDs would be less lovely.

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