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Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
Got a couple of stupid questions. I just put a new set of wheels on my '04 Pontiac GTP. I swapped my old tires from the stock wheels to the new ones. I had this done at sears because bought the tires there and I have their road hazard plan so I get rotations and balancing for free. I've been back 3 times now and the wheels are still seriously off balance. What the hell is going on?

Also, I put an aftermarket ZZP catted downpipe on to replace the disintegrating stock one. I had this done at the local shop I trust because I detest exhaust work. Everything was merry for about a week until today when I noticed a pretty loud leak. The shop is going to take a look at it in a few days but I was wondering if this was normal behavior, what with the heat and the expanding and contracting.

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Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
Is there anything to road force wheel balancing? I just got new wheels and had Sears swap my old tires over. I've been back to have them balanced 3 times and I've still got serious vibration issues. I can't stand it anymore so I looked up local tire shops and noticed the road force thing.

It looks like its just a more accurate balancing service for an extra fee. I'm willing to pay it if there's anything to it. I have a long rear end commute and I can't stand the wobblyness.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
I definitely don't have those. I'm kinda leaning toward the techs at Sears being a little stoney. Last time around the cross threaded a lug and had to order a new stud and lug and rip the whole hub apart to press in the new stud. I'm going to try another shop this morning that offers road force. They may tell me I don't need it but if I just have a wonky wheel/tire combo or something I want the option there. I'll report back later.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
So I went and had the road force balancing done. It improved things immensely but I still have a slight shimmy. The tech seemed to think it has something to do with the one mismatched tire I have. Still doesn't explain why sears couldn't seem to get it right. I can deal with it for another year or so until its time for new tires.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice

Arriviste posted:

Nothing quality to add (as usual): Just wanted to say that yours is one of my favorite name/avatar/title combos.

Well shucks :)

PainterofCrap posted:

It may mean nothing, but I had all sorts of problems eliminating shimmy at certain speeds on a new set of tires.

After almost three years of trying an embarrassing number of fixes, including having the front end aligned twice, all four tires balanced three times at two separate shops, swapping out the driveshaft (I have a spare) and contemplating rebuilding the entire driveline behind the transmission, I gave up and bought new tires. All problems disappeared.

Turned out to be a cheap-rear end set of hosed-up tires.

These aren't new tires, just new wheels. The tires are 3 Goodyear eagle GT's and a single Eagle sport. The sport is on there because I potholed one of the GT's about a week after I got them and they were discontinued so I couldn't find another one. The sport was about the closest replacement I could get. They all have about 20k on them.

I was wondering if mounting and unmounting can eventually damage a tire. These have been on and off a bunch of times due to corrosion on my old wheels. I had to have the cancer ground off the beads a few times due to chronic leaking plus having them taken on and off trying to fix my present troubles.

These tires still have a decent amount of tread left so I hate to replace them but this is a pretty severe shimmy I'm dealing with so I will if I must.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
I don't know exactly. Between my balancing problems and trying to take care of the sealing problems on my old wheels they've probably been mounted and unmounted at least 5-6 times.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

I feel this fell off the page and someone here knows something about transmissions.

I can offer my experience with the 4t65hd in my Grand Prix. Its in the family I guess. Mine never had any trouble with reverse but it was slipping bad from 1-2 and 2-3. Turns out theres a manufacturing defect in them. Something about a thing not being machined right and the clutches burning up. I got a rebuilt one installed for about $2k. The rebuilt one has that defect fixed. Its been all things good since I got the new one.

Sorry I can't be more helpful but maybe you can glean something from my experience.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
I'm loyal to Motorola phones since Ive had my maxx. Its been rock solid. No idea how Samsung has become so huge since almost everything ive owned from them has been crusty poo poo. But yeah, a cheap Bluetooth obd and torque is a nice thing to have. Good for reading and clearing codes. Also neat for me because I have a blower yet my car has no boost guage. I kind of enjoy seeing that thing swing up and down. Its more like a fun level indicator.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
My '04 GTP has a pretty noticeable shimmy on the highway. I've had the wheels balanced multiple times so I'm pretty sure that isn't the trouble.

It seems to do it mostly while accelerating. For instance, cruise set at 75 on the highway, smooth as silk while going downhill or coasting but when I come to a hill and the car powers up I feel the shimmy. Shimmy goes away once I crest the hill.

I'm told its probably the axles. I replaced one along with a wheel bearing several years ago but the other is still stock. What would cause an axle to come unbalanced? It doesnt seem like something that would just wear out. I'd like to understand what causes this condition if anybody can help explain it to me.

Also, how would I determine which side is causing the vibration?

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
I've been using regular Mobil1 oil and filters in my Grand Prix and my girlfriends Legacy since they were new. With 174k on the GTP and 110k on the legacy I've been wondering if there's anything to the high mileage oil. Is there any reason to not switch?

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
Posted in the chat thread, maybe I can get some advice here...

What's wrong with my tranny? I don't mean my dickgirl, I mean the gearbox in my '04 GTP. A 4t65e-hd to be specific. It started not shifting properly a month or so ago. Not kicking up or down and revving higher than normal at highway speed. 

Last weekend I drained it, changed the filter and filled it with fresh dex 6. It immediately ran perfect and did so for about 3 days and then went back to the way it was before. If it's a mechanical problem I don't understand how it can go from hosed to fine with a fluid change and then back again.

This is a professionally rebuilt tranny I had installed by a good shop about a year and a half and around 55k miles ago. Of course the warranty was good for 2 years. No abuse aside from the usual flooring up highway ramps and what not. Any ideas before I take it back to the shop to find out how hosed I am?

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice

rdb posted:

Not saying that this is the problem, but when you drop the pan and change the fluid your only getting what's in the pan. The torque converter probably holds 1.5x that much. Those transmissions are known for failure behind the supercharged engine.

Would it make a difference to have the shop do an actual flush on it? This transmission and torque converter aren't even 3 years old yet and somewhere between 50 and 60k miles. I don't beat the thing beyond standing on it to go up freeway ramps and the occasional beans for the hell of it. As you said, these gearboxes must truly be at their limit with the blown 3800s.

If I do decide to keep the poor beast on the road would something like a ZZP unit be a little bit tougher? They claim as much anyway. The rest of the car is pretty solid so I will probably fix whatever is ailing it. I really do love my car and I can't imagine driving anything else so this is a total bummer for me.

I took a little video earlier today. Maybe it'll help to diagnose what exactly the trouble is. Enjoy my heavy breathing.

https://youtu.be/Kpn09Fh51jI

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
Weirdest drat thing happened tonight. Went to turn on the blower for the heat cause its getting a little chilly. I noticed when I turned the knob it went straight to full blast. That's odd so I spun the knob up and down and off. Constant full blast. I get home and shut the car off and the drat thing is still blowing with the ignition off and key removed. I tried pulling every fan related relay and fuse with no result. Finally had to go under the dash and pull the plug right from the blower itself.

That did the trick. Id be seriously spooked if it kept going after that. Now I guess I have no HVAC unless I plug the fan in and then yank it every time I drive until I figure this out. I read that there's a resistor that can go bad that might cause this behavior but I'm not sure what I should be testing to find out. Any ideas? The vehicle is my '04 Pontiac GTP.

I replaced the blower motor itself about 2 years ago. Put a new cabin filter in it about 6 months ago and didn't notice any water down that way.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
I only tried pulling the fuses and relays that were labeled for fans and HVAC stuff. I didn't try the battery main that the guy in the video did. That video is showing my exact problem so it looks like I'll have to pick up that resistor and put it in. It's a simple job thankfully.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice

Grumbletron 4000 posted:

Weirdest drat thing happened tonight. Went to turn on the blower for the heat cause its getting a little chilly. I noticed when I turned the knob it went straight to full blast. That's odd so I spun the knob up and down and off. Constant full blast. I get home and shut the car off and the drat thing is still blowing with the ignition off and key removed. I tried pulling every fan related relay and fuse with no result. Finally had to go under the dash and pull the plug right from the blower itself.

That did the trick. Id be seriously spooked if it kept going after that. Now I guess I have no HVAC unless I plug the fan in and then yank it every time I drive until I figure this out. I read that there's a resistor that can go bad that might cause this behavior but I'm not sure what I should be testing to find out. Any ideas? The vehicle is my '04 Pontiac GTP.

I replaced the blower motor itself about 2 years ago. Put a new cabin filter in it about 6 months ago and didn't notice any water down that way.

Just in case anybody cares I got this taken care of. It was, in fact the blower motor resistor. I found one at the boneyard for $17. Not bad considering new at NAPA is $65. The drat thing was no fun to put in though. It's held onto the airbox with melted plastic pegs which I had to chisel off. I had to dig through my bucket of derelict screws to find ones just the right size to work into the melted stubs. It's smack dab against the firewall too so I spent an hour using a stubby little screwdriver turning those screws in a millionth of a turn at a time.

Problem solved though! She blows fast and she blows slow just like she should. I'm so glad it wasn't some sort of untraceable electrical gremlin situation.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice
Got more 2004 GTP problems. It's been kind of bucking and shuddering at low rpms lately. Last Friday I went to a friends house after work and it was running well on the way there. On the way home I noticed that it was behaving poorly.

I've also had it shut down on me a few times in the last couple of weeks. Once it died while i was cruising at about 75 on the highway and it died a couple of other times at low speed, in parking lots and such. Always starts back up and runs fine afterwards. No CEL and no codes that i can see with my obd bluetooth adapter and android torque app. My traction/ABS light is on due what I believe is a bad wire leading to an ABS sensor in one of the hubs that I haven't fixed yet.

It doesn't seem to be slipping as i know slipping and its shifting ok but when its in a higher gear and under power I feel it bucking and shuddering. Feels almost grindy, like driving over gravel even. Give it some juice, it downshifts, smooths out and accelerates just fine. It's not down on power or anything.

I made a video. https://youtu.be/2DLviUKtjcU Its a little lengthy and you have to deal with my annoying sinusy voice but you can see and hear the problem. Especially obvious near the end of the video.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice

some texas redneck posted:



I'd find a way to check the fuel pressure, both at idle and while blipping the throttle.

When the filter was clogged decently on my Integra, it idled fine, was fine at WOT, but hesitated pretty bad at part throttle. Putting a gauge on showed a slightly wavering pressure while at idle, and blipping the throttle would cause it to nosedive before shooting up. Holding it steady caused the needle to have a seizure, but somehow it still pulled steady under WOT.

My first guess is partially clogged fuel filter, second is fuel pressure regulator, third is fuel pump.

[/quote]

rdb posted:

I think it's an ignition issue, when is the last time you gave it plugs and wires? Maybe even a coil going bad. Accelerating at low RPM causes some pretty high cylinder pressures and that's when it's hardest to ignite. Boost makes it worse.

Thanks for the advice! Those are definitely good places to start. I'll throw a new filter in first cause that's cheap and easy. Hopefully that's it. Plugs and wires are definitely due. I did them right around 100k. Unfortunately the back set of plugs is a son a bitch to change. Gotta loosen the motor mounts and tilt the whole engine forward to get to them. I'll pick those and do that misery this weekend.

Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice

KnifeWrench posted:

Hopefully this is the right place. This question seems pretty stupid but :shrug:

My brother was/is pretty into working on cars as a hobby, but I'm a total outsider. This past year, his beloved WRX, which he'd put a lot of time and energy into, got totaled. He replaced it with a 2008 4Runner a couple months ago. So I was thinking maybe a good gift idea would be to get him something for that, but I have no idea:
- If that's an absurd idea because obviously the 4Runner can't be a fun project car
- What kinds of accessories would be relatively likely to be well-received as a gift
- If hobbyists don't even like other people getting stuff for them, because that's the whole point of the hobby

Any insight is greatly appreciated. Everyone in my family is a nightmare to shop for, so I'm looking for any kind of foothold.

Some good detailing products would probably be appreciated. A bundle of microfibre cloths, a clay bar and maybe some good quality soaps and wax would be good. Maybe put it all in a bucket and wrap it up.

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Grumbletron 4000
Nov 30, 2002

Where you want it, bitch.
College Slice

Raluek posted:

A counterpoint to this is if he's "into" detailing, he'll have particular products that he already prefers, and that's not easy to guess.

Thats true. Maybe look at the shelves in his garage and see what he uses if that's possible. Unless he's a total detailing snob some Zymol stuff and a pack of rags would probably be a great gift.

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