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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

like and subscribe for more passive-aggressive roadway bullshit adventure in Chigcao

What kind of vacuum gauge did you get? "Healthy" and "Normal" are not vacuum readings.

Also, are you thinking you have a vacuum leak and you're trying to find it with this? Because ... that's not how you do that.

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

like and subscribe for more passive-aggressive roadway bullshit adventure in Chigcao

It's going to get more expensive the longer it's in there. It may dislodge itself (best case), it may stay there and eat up the rotor and pad. If it hasn't done much damage yet, it could still be "turn the rotor and reinstall".

How long has it been since it's had a brake job? If you're due anyway, I'd probably drive it and take it in when you can (still ASAP, of course, but a couple light drives won't cause immediate catastrophic failure).

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Did you tell him to look at the brakes, or did you tell him that there's a noise that you want to resolve?

Don't create an X-Y problem.

Also, it could be a wheel bearing.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Ozmiander posted:

If you can't answer stupid questions without getting mad, then don't.
A) kastein knows more about cars than most of us, telling him not to answer questions is pretty stupid in itself.
B) There's stupid, and then there's stupid. Sorry you don't like it, but the exchange that just happened is nearly literally the "how do I get out of a well guys" exchange so famous here.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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That may just be a bad sensor - off the top of my head, on various vehicles, that's been caused by a TPS, VSS, or a temp sensor. Do you have a check engine light?

Whatever it is probably isn't good for your tranny - I would fix it sooner rather than later.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Pretty sure you have to replace the timing belt, not (specifically) the serpentine belt.

In which case, hahahahaha why did you agree to that

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Pro-tip (for the BMW owner's bf/hubby): Don't drive cars in limp mode. Limp mode basically exists to get you off of a dangerous highway when the car knows it's failing. If you're not in imminent danger, DO NOT KEEP DRIVING.

The difference is while it COULD have been a sensor (or a leak, or low fluid, or ...), it may have been repairable before you drove it home. Most often, they're not after being driven in limp mode for an extended period of time.

And yes, what Slavvy said about "lifetime" ATF is wholly correct. Lifetime fluid is bullshit, you should absolutely follow a normal maintenance interval for your vehicle.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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I'd say 30k is about right for most cars. If you're really worried, look at using a better type of ATF.

(For example, ChryCo recommends ATF+4 in the AW4, which is ... basically utter poo poo. Using Dexron VI has made the tranny work much, much better, and should offer more protection, too.)

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Yeah, that's supposed to be attached to the cap. I'd use pliers/screwdriver to take it out, and get a new one.

Not in that order.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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EightBit posted:

str, that's a terrible bit of advice. Blow up the starter, while driving with one hand holding the key.

Get a ride to a shop for a replacement, or get it towed. The tow might cost less than munching a starter and the gear ring it turns. You can't replace that on lots of vehicles, gotta do the whole flywheel/flex plate.
Shifting into drive with a NSS would disable the starter, though.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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That's shocks, not springs. if you take the shocks out of a leaf/coil sprung vehicle, you can technically drive it (I wouldn't), but it's very ... bouncy.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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I had something like that happen with my mustang. I took it in and the guy had it fixed in an afternoon.

I'd say I would plan on an alternate ride to work while it gets fixed, basically.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Dumb question, that I think I know the answer to:

Driving my girlfriend's 1.8T '02 Passat on the freeway, it bongs at me - oil light. gently caress. Pull off the highway, roll into a gas station, hear bad noises (like rod knock). Check the oil. Dry. Add about a quart, whatever was in the trunk - check again: overfull.

I was about a quarter mile from my destination and already figured the motor was hosed, so I start it back up. Brief rattle noise, then ... Back to the way it sounded yesterday.

So ... Is there any possibility it's not turbofucked? Should I do an oil change or something else preventatively, or just budget for a new motor and drive it until it needs it?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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InitialDave posted:

Be single.

Any damage has been done. Just treat it as normal and see if it eats itself, I guess.

Yeaaaah, the only reason I was driving it was to take it to a detailer, because it was grody. I love her, but we handle cars very differently.

Ok, that's what our mechanic is saying too, so gently caress it, let's see what happens.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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[2000 mustang GT, manual, (maybe relevant mod: Bilstein shocks)]

When I bought the car, I was pretty happy with how it drove. When I bought new rear tires, I foolishly listened to the dummy at Just Tires and paid for an alignment.

This resulted in it driving terribly - it would follow road textures, it understeered terribly, etc.

I got it REaligned by a friend, and the before/after readings are below. My question is this - it now needs a front right tie rod end, and I expect that this will require a realignment. Should I specify that I want them to set it back to factory settings, or specifically back to the below (after) settings?

I know the below before settings aren't what I want, but I don't know enough to know if the below after settings are better than stock. Most of them seem to be in range with stock and I don't see any reason the one that isn't would provide any real benefit.

code:
Front : Left						Front : Right

Actual	Before	Specified Range		Measurement	Actual	Before	Specified
-1.3	-1.4	-1.3- 0.3		Camber		-0.6	-0.1	-1.3- 0.3
3.4	3.4	2.5 - 4.0		Caster		3.9	3.9	2.5 - 4.0
0.09	0.19	0.00 - 0.25		Toe		0.15	0.09	0.00 - 0.25
17.2	17.3	--			SAI		18.6	18.2	--
15.9	15.9	--			Included Angle	18.0	18.0	--

				Front

			Actual	Before	Specified

Cross Camber		-0.7	-1.2	-0.8 - 0.8
Cross Caster		-0.5	-0.5	-0.8 - 0.8
Total Toe		0.24	0.28	0.00 - 0.50
The only item out of spec AFTER alignment is Front Left Camber, the only items out of spec BEFORE alignment were Front Left Camber and Cross Camber.

(AFTER is what I like right now, BEFORE is what Just Tires did which I did not like.)

Ordinarily, I would take it to the friend to be aligned, but I don't want to ask him to replace the TRE and I don't want to drive it unaligned after it is replaced 50+ miles to get to him.

Edit: Oh, and worth pointing out: I don't want to burn up tires because of an extremely aggressive alignment, but I do prefer performance to tire longevity.

Krakkles fucked around with this message at 08:06 on Jun 8, 2015

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Pfox posted:

I've got a 2011 Honda CR-Z (still under warranty) with two issues -

1. ...

2. ...
#1 is either clutch adjustment or synchros. I'd say the second is more likely. When it happens, does releasing the clutch pedal and redepressing it allow you to select first?

#2 - long shot, but would you call this a high pitched squeal? If so, it sounds like a misadjusted or stretched accessory belt.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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It's based on various scenarios, essentially. So the car has to operate at or above X temperature for Y minutes at a speed greater than Z, but not Z'.

Here's an explanation that isn't at all guaranteed to work on a given car, but probably would:

http://repairpal.com/how-to-perform-a-basic-drive-cycle

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Professor Bling posted:

The girlfriend's dad has a first-gen CR-V, and his driver's door is stuck in the closed position. From what I can see it's some sort of an issue with the actuator itself; the mechanism for the door handle isn't actually moving anything in the actuator, and I'm thinking its binding somewhere, since the handle isn't coming all the way back into the housing in the interior.

I've been messing with it for a bit trying to get it to open, but I can't get into the mechanism to do anything. The door lock itself seems to be frozen, but frozen in the unlocked position.

Does anyone have a way to get the door to open? I'm stumped.

Edit: I'm fully aware I'm probably missing something incredibly simple.
Creepy video explaining what's happening:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dw-0p8Z21S0

Video of a guy opening (unlocking) a door with a coat hanger:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgPLe5oRfQc

Unlocking and opening work the same way, the only difference is there's two different rods. Pull one, it unlocks? Pull the other, it opens.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Jack B Nimble posted:

So my truck, 95 ford f150 with the 4.9 straight six, shows what I'd say to be 10 volts on the dash, but when I checked the terminal posts with a multimeter it showed 13 and some change while the truck was running. I called my friend to make sure I was doing it right (DC 20 selected, touch the positive lead to the positive terminal, ect).

So maybe I just suck at reading the dash gauge? The gauge is this one here and the needle is right on the "n" of normal. Surely that's not 13ish? I love my gauges, don't tell me they're poo poo



If it's like most Fords, it's more of an idiot light that LOOKS like a gauge, than an actual gauge.

The only precision you can count on it for is that it will generally show the same value for "normal" voltage. Not a CORRECT value, but a consistent one.

Oil pressure (if you have it) is the same. (My '00 Mustang is like this too.)

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Flo Cytometer posted:

I need advice from someone who is familiar with the Ford Triton 5.4.

I got Bank 1 done today w/ new plugs and coils (200k on obvious-original coils and mismatched plugs!), then it started to hail. Cyl 4 was the worst, but after getting that done, I've lost all drive to do the other side. Are there any tips or tricks to get the driver side done with slightly less bleeding and cursing? (2000 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer)
Loosen the engine mounts, lift the engine up.

And then be thankful you're doing it in an expedition and not a mustang.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Cage posted:

Spark plugs in a new edge? I just did them a few months ago, took less than an hour and all I had to do was take off the air intake.

Unless you're talking about the coils, then ok yeah I have no idea where those go to so maybe thats the hard part?
He's talking about the 5.4, which is significantly wider than the 4.6.

The coils are on top of the plugs and aren't hard - one 8mm bolt, pull, disconnect from harness.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Cage posted:

Yeah but you said "you should be thankful you're not doing it in a mustang" so I just assumed you were talking about the mustang you own.
I am

My mustang doesn't have a 4.6L

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Cage posted:

Oh deng. Oops. Not easy in a 3.8?

Or did you do a 5.4 swap? I am so confused.
Well, expeditions didn't come with 3.8s, so ...

Yes, we swapped in a 5.4. The 4.6 was mistreated by the PO and since we were in there anyway, you know. Had to.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Godholio posted:

Plugs are a loving BITCH in a 3.8 Taurus, I know that.
They usually are in cars with V-engines pointed the wrong way.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Flo Cytometer posted:

Its pretty common on this beast (and the F-150, at least):


Explorer, probably ranger and mustang, too.

I use that hole as a fill plug on my jeep with an 8.8" rear end, and I had a lot of fun cutting those tabs off.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Flo Cytometer posted:

I survived the 5.4 plug and coils.. this can't be THAT bad. Right?
It's not bad. I think two bolts, maybe 10mm or something like that. I still have mine, I think, if you want it. I'd be happy to ship it to you free, assuming I can do it for a couple bucks or whatever. (Assuming you don't need it before the weekend - Friday is the earliest I could ship it.)

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Enourmo posted:

The hardware store almost certainly will, if they carry metric hardware. Most terminals have a nut and bolt setup, if the nut is free-spinning you could just loosen that while holding the remains of the bolt head with a vise grip; if it's a recessed hex or square nut that you can't get at, or if it threads directly into the terminal metal, you'll need to either try and loosen it with vice grips, use a hacksaw blade to cut a slot for a screwdriver, or if you have an angle grinder/dremel just use that to grind the head off.
Sounds like you're a thinking car battery.

OP, I've had good luck with putting significant pressure on a screwdriver and turning slowly. If you want to be able to put more (enough) pressure, place the remote on a somewhat soft surface, like a towel on a table.

As for where to get a replacement - I'd think auto part stores would stock them, or maybe Amazon?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Flo Cytometer posted:

No worries if you have to go digging for it, but I appreciate the offer. There is just a 3/4" bolt holding that sucker on from what I can just use by finger size estimation. If you do happen to just find it
Oh, I'm pretty sure I know exactly where it is - I'm just not home until Friday. PM me your address and I'll send it over

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Three-Phase posted:

Is it true that you cannot get an accurate alignment check unless the car is on a lift?
No, the lift makes it easier to work on the car, that's all.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Three-Phase posted:

Gotcha - this one dealership near me has an alignment they do when you bring your car into the "holding bay", but they said it isn't guaranteed good because the floor isn't even. I've had it indicate out of alignment once when I was there, I took it to the repair shop in question (the one that didn't center my steering wheel correctly), where they have a much newer alignment system, and they said it was well within spec. There never was any evidence of alignment being really bad like pulling or odd tire wear.

That gave me pause. Call me mechanically declined.
Alignments do need to be done on a level surface. Run away from any shop that wants to measure alignment or worse, align the car, on an uneven surface.

I guess that's the other purpose of the lift, if a shop had an uneven floor. Though I'd wonder how level the lift is if they didn't bother to level the floor surface.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Three-Phase posted:

I guess in the old days you'd loosen a nut, adjust the steering wheel, and tighten the nut. Now you've got to do this whole alignment hokey-pokey to get it straightened, that sucks.

You know what too, if I wuss out and get it fixed on my next alignment, I'll be used to it being off, so I'll need to ask them to align it with the steering wheel offset by a few degrees.
This isn't true - the right way has always been to align it first, and correct the steering wheel after, by (roughly) removing a nut and straightening it.

In theory, the wheel should always already be straight if all alignment is correct and no parts are damaged or worn, but in practice, it's not unheard of to correct alignment, correct hardware, and still have to adjust the wheel to straight.

Go have them straighten it. If they won't, don't get it aligned there again and take it somewhere that will.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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spog posted:

(i.e. I have a vacuum in my tyre)
If you have a vacuum in your tire, the entire structure of the tire would be collapsed.

Remember, flat is (roughly) atmospheric pressure. Most of the structure of most tires (i.e. not run-flats) comes from the air pressure within the tire.

A bubble is part of the structure which holds that pressure being unable to hold it in the desired shape. Like a hernia, sort of.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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I think what you want is "stated value" insurance. As far as I know, that's the only way to have it both ways (i.e., insurance for more than KBB but be able to drive it).

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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They didn't, but it's always been optional. Or more precisely it hasn't ever been on every car.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Age or cracks are the usual telltale signs. If there a bunch of little cracks in the rubber, replace it. If it's older than maybe 5 years, replace it.

Or, alternatively, if you're setting the tension to spec and it still squeaks, replace it.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Does this seat look familiar to anyone?

They were bolted into a International Scout II, but definitely didn't come from it originally. Trying to figure out what they're from so we can decide if it would be a travesty to make office chairs (well, shop chairs) out of them.



Full album:
https://imgur.com/a/AWKHq

There's a rear bash panel (it covers the back of the base of the seat) that has some numbers on it, but none have resulted in anything useful in my searches:

S <coach logo - looks familiar but I don't know what it is> 1CAV
PT 1740871
ASM NO 20104425
REV 8

Then "P | P" encircled. Picture of this panel is here.

Thank you!

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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A radiator shouldn't cost anywhere near $1000 - on most cars, it's a relatively simple job to perform (lower labor cost) and they're not usually expensive parts (I think the most I've paid for a radiator, over 4 wildly different cars, was $300).

It is almost always cheaper to repair a car you have than to buy a new one. Think about it this way - if you buy a new car, you're going to pay that much in 4 months or less for the payment. If this car is paid off, I would personally keep it and fix it.

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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I know that Limited Slip Differentials act during braking to help maintain traction (basically, it's harder to lock up tires with an LSD between them under braking than it otherwise would be), but I'm curious if auto-locking differentials like the Lock-Rite or Detroit would do the same. It makes sense, as they are bidirectional, but ... do they?

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Christobevii3 posted:

They don't want you to hear the posi lock bang noise
It did scare me the first couple times. Now I just think it's cool.

So, I appreciate the input, but I don't know that I've got a clear answer. I currently daily drive a Cherokee with front and rear auto-lockers, so I'm aware of the onroad handling characteristics, which I think are being overstated a bit. I know that they're not supposed to do anything without power applied, but I don't think 10.5" of rubber alone stopped me from locking up. (And no, I don't think the brakes are underpowered - it's well-maintained four wheel disc, with several upgraded bits.)

The situation that led to this question was a panic stop that had me coming out of the seat, standing on the brakes, and honestly expecting it to lock - but it didn't. Is 10.5" of rubber on ~4000lb vehicle more adequate than I think it is, or is it possible the lockers did more than I expected?

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Krakkles
May 5, 2003

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Christobevii3 posted:

You have enough rubber. Lockers will cause you more problems parking in tight spaces.
Except they don't? But ok.

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