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Colostomy Bag posted:This made me check POR15 to see if they have aerosols (they don't). But holy hell the price for that stuff...yikes. Yeah it's a sticker shock for sure. Good news is a 4oz can will cover a solid axle. A quart will do all the heavy metal on a car, frame, suspension and axles. Pray you don't need enough for a flatbed.
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# ¿ Jun 19, 2020 04:38 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 16:17 |
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I don't think an 80 yr old man should be trying to use apps and speeding.
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2020 00:02 |
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Use an impact wrench and hold it with the other hand or channel locks or a pipe wrench. Depending on if you want to reuse it or not.
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# ¿ Jul 18, 2020 17:07 |
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Seems like a great reason to me then. Hobbies should be fun and don't need to be practical. Just take lots of photos in case you get to a point that the project is a total cluster and you decide to go back.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2020 17:04 |
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Colostomy Bag posted:Fumoto valves. What is this, a crossover episode?
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# ¿ Jul 28, 2020 01:02 |
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What about a magnet?
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2020 17:59 |
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Motronic posted:Good job showing that gently caress who's boss STR. Agreed, especially the double jointed variety. They don't grip incredibly strong but enough for most things like extraction and positioning. Also I was looking for a link and lol there's a Harbor Freight credit card! If I ever get a new tool chest I bet I'll have one in my pocket.
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2020 04:20 |
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Achtane posted:The fuel pump on my '93 Hardbody has died and I've noticed that the gas tank is pretty gross inside, with flakes of rust and poo poo floating around. A new tank is at least $250, it looks like. If you can get it operable, even half-assed, you can drive off most of the gas, or all of the gas and bring a jerry can with you to get home. If you're really not in a hurry put a little in another car before each fuel up and dilute it and use it. I would put a gallon in at a time, and at some point youll only have like 5 gallons in the tank and you can transfer all of it to a jerry can. If you're feeling real ambitious you could give it away to the neighborhood, tell everyone that you're giving away one gallon of gas for whatever and just fill em up. For what it's worth I cleaned one tank with a kit and sealed it, and the other just with water and some rocks for abrasion, which did get a lot out but was not great. I'm considering calling around to radiator shops to see if they can boil and seal it.
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2020 18:44 |
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Hunter2 Thompson posted:I didn't see a bodywork thread, so I suppose I'll ask here I'm no expert but I've been shooting a lot of paint lately. I would scuff and clean everything, and where you find adhesion issues, strip that off out into where you know it's good. If you have some rusty metal than I'd use some kind of rust converter product. Then epoxy primer sealer primer the whole floor, and paint that. I'm finding epoxy primer to be very strong with great adhesion, as well as being a good base for top coating.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2020 19:09 |
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canyoneer posted:I want to buy some ramps to make life a little easier in oil changes. I have a Honda Odyssey and a Honda Fit, both fairly low clearance but not to the level of a race car. I would get well made plastic ramps personally. Interested in anyone who has some to chime in, I've finally concluded they would make my life easier as well. I'm probably going to build some made of 2x12s stacked to give the Sierra like 4.5 inches of height. Even one board gave me a usable but tight workspace. But a good short rampset for the Escape could serve both.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2020 19:14 |
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Hunter2 Thompson posted:Nice advice, it makes sense to remove the paint with adhesion issues. I wasn't sure if the rest had to go too. If the paint that's there hasn't failed I don't see any reason to pull it up, just feather into it and seal the whole thing. A few wet coats of epoxy primer leaves me with an evenly sealed surface. The first coat always shows the areas that were more porous like body filler or flat coatings, but the second wet coat almost always seals that fully, and if not a third coat will for sure. I've only had experience with the Eastwood epoxy, so I don't know if there's better or worse or what. At this rate it'll take two decades before I've tried even 4 brands. I picked Eastwood since I was already planning to get a bunch of stuff there. The next car is painting means more to me so I'll probably get House of Kolor or similar, but it's like $60 more for a gallon. Looks like UPOLs Raptor is great for over rusty prepped metal though, I would have bought that for sure for my flatbed. Since a floor pan is likely not a smooth flat surface I would imagine you'll do a lot by hand, so buy a big rear end pack of 3m scuffing pads, and sandpaper for when you hit loose or suspect stuff. Like all the Rustoleum stuff I'd try to remove entirely with 80 or 100 grit. I've been buying the adhesive sandpaper rolls for use on blocks, and they work really well folded over and used by hand. I used a lot of wire wheel for loose scale and paint, flap wheels for really bad rust or a full stripping, sandpaper for surface issues like loose paint and surface rust. And 3m scuff pads for existing finishes to dull them and give the primer something to grip. Then clean it all with solvent and-or degreaser, then soap and water, then spray way window cleaner to get the last of the dust and fingerprints while wearing gloves. Four pack of spray way at Costco for $7 I think. I've gone thru boxes of Scott Towels In a Box.
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2020 23:00 |
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diadem posted:Thanks to everyone for your advice. My mechanic was amazing when I first found him 10+ years ago, but there was some turnover in his shop over the last few years and my sense of loyalty blinded me to the changing reality. I'll bring my car to my wife's mechanic. In the meantime, my wife hasn't driven since she was first pregnant, so it's not like I need the Pilot at all. (She works remotely on account of the pandemic) The financial advice is clear to me here, get the car fixed and sell it. Eliminate the insurance and registration costs of that car, and fix it first so it's easier to sell, provided the repair is cheap. If the repair is more than, and I'm just pulling a number out of a hat, $750 or $1000, just sell it as is. Looks like if it's in good shape you could get $3500-$5000 out of it, working.
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# ¿ Sep 10, 2020 16:44 |
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davebo posted:First time I've had a car where the battery is in the trunk so I thought I'd ask: if I want to use this car to jump-start another car where the battery is in the engine bay, should I hook the cables up to the battery in the trunk, or the points in the engine bay where the manual says to hook them up to if I had been trying to jump-start THIS car? No idea on the first part. On the second part, make sure all your battery connections are clean and tight. 8 years is definitely long enough that some corrosion can be in place and causing high resistance.
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# ¿ Sep 10, 2020 18:01 |
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Charles posted:Does the steering angle sensor affect emissions? Do you work for VW? That's a great way to scam the emissions system, run a different tune if the wheel is straight for x amount of time. I think theirs was based on having only two of the wheels turning or something, this works on AWD cars too!
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# ¿ Sep 11, 2020 16:54 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:What kind of primer would you guys use after wire-wheeling and putting on rust converter on something like a truck frame. Zink primers seem pretty cheap and I've seen people on YouTube use them. Etch priming is perhaps the best (but also much more expensive). I'm addicted to epoxy primer. I hated it the first couple of times and not having the right solvents to clean up, but now. whew. It's the stuff. Smooth spray, good hard coating, smooth finish. I'm actually near the bottom of the gallon I bought, so I've really gotten used to it.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2020 06:19 |
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Is that meant to be spray smaller sections? So I'm mixing it and spraying out of a HVLP gun. I choose how much to activate and go, the rest can sit on the shelf for a while. There's some good canned stuff but I believe it's activate and spray and that's it, use the can or waste it. Also, I don't know what you intend to topcoat it with but maybe start there and work back. I had some Chassis Coat paint and it specifically said do not use over self etching primer. That paint also was good to go over the rust encap. paint too so that was nice.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2020 06:59 |
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MrOnBicycle posted:Ah yes. Autocorrect while walking. Yeah mixing myself is probably the way to go to reduce waste as I have a compressor and can buy a cheap gun. Don't know what I'll be top coating with. Likely normal paint and then something skin to fluid film. Or I'll go with some other primer and then a proper chassis paint. Nice. When you get to using it write a review somewhere! I mixed what I thought was a tiny amount of this stuff to brush on and I ended up painting the thing I wanted, my vice, and a shooting target before I just tossed the rest. I always end up cleaning and painting any part I take off and it would be nice to keep a quart on hand.
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# ¿ Sep 18, 2020 17:04 |
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Roll-On Bedliner. I'm considering UPOL Raptor, tinted, for my flatbed. It's black now and would go to white, I'd consider spraying with a lighter primer (probably epoxy gray or tan) first to help hiding. My questions: should I worry about epoxy primer first or not? I figure it goes on thick enough that I shouldn't worry but also it won't hurt. Is rolling it on OK? I think I can borrow the right spray gun for it but I would have to get my hands on a compressor and I don't think the neighbor with the gun has a movable compressor I can use, so I don't know where I would get one. Is that a good brand? It looks like it and has good review but I like the goon input. It's 60SF, and coverage appears to be 110-130 per gallon so I'm hoping to get by with two quarts. No sides or anything, just a flat surface 8.5' x 7', diamond plate.
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# ¿ Sep 28, 2020 04:01 |
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incogneato posted:Fair enough. It's not about resale value, though--I hope to drive this into the ground. Visible scratches would probably drive me nuts once I noticed them, though. If you've been warned that it scratches easily, absolutely put a screen protector on it. I do agree with Motronic to just enjoy things and don't cover them for some mythical resale value, a screen protector doesn't affect your enjoyment of the screen though. May as well cover it while it's perfect. In a few years when it's worn out get another it let it ride.
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2020 04:43 |
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JohnnySavs posted:Would it be worth doing a thread on a double whammy mid-life crisis civic si and miata purchase and tinkering?
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2020 04:44 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:I am somehow having a lot of trouble finding the part I need, a wire harness/connector to my 2008 Mazda 3S low beam. What's weird to me is the connector in your photo looks like a three wire connection, which perhaps Mazda decided all cars get the same connection and sized a socket to fit your bulb? I would take the male end down to the auto parts store and see if you can try a few different pigtails. This one looks a lot more like the one you have. But if course it's impossible to tell the sizes. https://www.autozone.com/electrical...899_216208_4155 And the ever present option of last resort, just use a couple of blade connectors loose. Will definitely get you light, and you can hit the junkyard at your leisure.
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# ¿ Oct 6, 2020 15:32 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Have decided, after 20-years, to look into getting my '66 Pontiac Bonneville body spruced up and painted. My neighbor paid that much and also it took 9 months I think? Maybe 11. It's beautiful, but also was the conversation that lead me to spray my truck outside. I figured I could do it for 10% of that cost with tools, and even if the time was the same it was a huge win. Idk your skill set but I'd expect anyone at all could get it to a primer state that looked great and only needed a little help and prep before painting, saving a ton of money.
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2020 15:08 |
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canyoneer posted:Now instead of watching dark, out of focus youtube videos narrated by a breathy man I get to print out a few pages to look at in the garage and oops I really should have numbered these pages and why won't this bolt move was it tightened by a silverback gorilla with an 8 foot bar ugh this is taking so much longer than I expected Assembly is the opposite of disassembly.
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# ¿ Oct 13, 2020 04:56 |
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Withnail posted:Thanks I live in colorado. But this was an east coast truck, so it's all rusty and crusty in there. Also in Colorado and I do it as praxis every time. I've had too many brake caliper bolts that required all of my strength plus 5% to get them loose that it's every time.
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# ¿ Oct 23, 2020 22:23 |
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unbuttonedclone posted:I don't think so (my knowledge is reading lots of things about using Helicoils the last few days - read lots of machinists using it in aluminum) If you're doing a spark plug , well, high-temp RTV doesn't really hold it and that's what the package says to use. Currently have red thread locker curing overnight like all the folks on Youtube say, so hopefully I can start the Escape up in the morning. What are the chances you can mount a gopro in there to capture anything that might happen?
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2020 03:16 |
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istewart posted:I'm in the process of resurrecting a 1987 F-150 4x4 I think you're on the right track for diagnostics. Keep tracing continuity and check that there is power from the connector and ground through the wiring harness. I replaced the same style of sockets on my truck, they crumbled when I tried to take them out, and I had to clean contact points on the PCB to get some to work. I just rub them with a pencil eraser, that gets through the buildup without damaging the contacts.
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2020 17:41 |
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Drum brakes are a pain in the rear end but I'm sure you can get a replacement wheel cylinder for it, which is what the bleeder comes from. If not, I'd bet you could extract the remainder of that bleeder and replace it.
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# ¿ Nov 1, 2020 04:03 |
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Motronic posted:Valve guide seals. Ignore it. Not worth fixing until it's actually a smoke machine/you are burning a significant amount of oil. Yep, I agree with this 100%. It's the same issue with the International.
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# ¿ Nov 27, 2020 21:31 |
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Why the hell would anyone try to talk you out of that. It's low risk fun.
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# ¿ Dec 11, 2020 03:40 |
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Is there enough coolant in the system? When it's low sometimes you don't get enough to circulate through the heater core.
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# ¿ Dec 22, 2020 14:49 |
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STR: Seems like cheap insurance against the hassle to me. Might be just enough work to get the theives to steal from someone else.
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# ¿ Dec 28, 2020 18:01 |
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STR posted:Yeah, and I live in copland. I've already been stopped twice over it. I've been stopped more times in this sleepy suburb in the ~2 yrs I've been here than in the past 20 loving years combined. Maybe you're overthinking it. Get screws the same size and thread as you have, with a security head. Obviously not "secure" but enough of a PITA that a thief walks to the next car. Probably just some rear end in a top hat with like, a flathead screwdriver. Now I'm overthinking it too, I'd put a plate cover on as well so you can't just rip the thing off.
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# ¿ Dec 28, 2020 20:09 |
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Thumbtacks posted:i am not a car person but money's a bit tight and i'm not going to take my car to a mechanic because i can fix it myself. probably. Are there any other symptoms? Does it burn oil, is it running at a good temperature or hot or cold, is it leaking anything, does it start well, have you recently made any changes, what's the mileage etc. Rough idling could be a lot of things. Fuel, air, ignition are all variables which means a ton of possibilities. I think you need a second symptom to do any good diagnostics. Or some diagnostic tools to start ruling things out.
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# ¿ Dec 30, 2020 21:24 |
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Oh good. It's not going to just spit out an answer of course, so look at the raw data and see if there are any inconsistencies. I don't know what you'll have access to, stuff like temperature, throttle position, fuel pressure may all help. Also give it a good visual and audible inspection. Perhaps there's a crack in the intake behind the MAF that's letting in extra air, or a cracking spark plug wire. Also be prepared that you won't figure it out and buying a new MAF doesn't fix it.
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# ¿ Dec 30, 2020 21:34 |
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Cunifer is a godsend. Any of the steel lines that looked at me funny were replaced with cunifer with zero hesitation. I don't even think I screwed any up, shockingly.
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# ¿ Jan 1, 2021 08:06 |
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wesleywillis posted:I've always known it as "international red". Red is the ideal color for an International. Over time they become red on their own.
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2021 21:20 |
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That reminds me. The drivers side interior A pillar trim on my wife's 2011 Escape is loose and I can not figure out why I can't clip it back on. Has anyone taken one off and put it on? It's like I can't quite get the tabs aligned, and forcing it didn't help. It looks so janky and I'm shocked she has lived with it for years. It's like a broken windows thing for me too, I feel like if it looks bad she'll treat the car bad and then the car will be bad.
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# ¿ Jan 6, 2021 16:59 |
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Colostomy Bag posted:I also use a big closed end slipped over a ratchet handle for a hillbilly breaker bar in tighter places. I was going to ask that, I've not had one with a head that small before. 15mm or larger in my experience. OP are you sure it's the right bolt? Edit:because I'm a weirdo I actually looked it up and I guess that's right. What a weird plug design. I would use your best quality six point socket at this point. StormDrain fucked around with this message at 20:34 on Jan 24, 2021 |
# ¿ Jan 24, 2021 20:31 |
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Thauros posted:i was an idiot and physically broke the usb port in my car due to forgetting the phone was both in my pocket and plugged in. exacerbating the issue is that a couple months ago any audio apps (phone calls still function) stopped working over bluetooth. i've unpaired it, re-paired it, done every possible recommended step and it still won't work. the bluetooth system in my car (2015 fiat abarth) is reputed to suck horribly and i'm not the first with this issue. In my wife's Escape we sometimes have to pull the fuse to the stereo and let it reset.
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# ¿ Jan 28, 2021 16:38 |
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2024 16:17 |
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Motronic posted:The next most likely idea at this point are the wrong springs. Even could be that the original springs were wrong and these are right.
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# ¿ Feb 1, 2021 19:37 |