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8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

KING BONG posted:

Stupid question... and it's fague. I have $15,000 to spend and I'm looking for the best vehicle to buy, used or new for a family of 5. Preferably not a mini van.

Probably a Mazda CX-5 or 7 but with a family of five you really need to be considering a minivan.

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8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Nebakenezzer posted:

This is also something that might be possible. I think instead of rotating the tires the previous owner might have replaced the front tires and moved the older ones to the back.

Do you know if the previous owner ever towed the car behind an RV? I've seen strange tire wear on cars that get pulled around for long distances, usually the towing setup is to blame.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
The transmission cooler kits UHaul sells are actually really really good. Straightforward install and the parts seem high quality.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

some texas redneck posted:

There's always the chance it wasn't overfilled, you may have just wound up with a fuel level sender that crapped out early.

Yeah given the age of the car I'd definitely think premature failure of a part. Bathtub curve and all that.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

tzirean posted:

Here's a question I wasn't expecting to ask today: what fell off my car and how badly do I need to get it fixed? ('99 Camry)



Is it just a heat shield?

Heat shield, you're fine

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

ROFLburger posted:

getting single pop/tap noise when i accelerate form a dead stop and also when i brake. it sounds like maybe some bushing or elbow might be all dired/worn out.

noise is coming from the passenger side wheel well. It's a AWD, lancer evolution. I've taken the drat suspension assembly apart and put it back together, but i can not for the life of my find a culprit.

anyone encounter something like this before? is there a usual suspect?

I would have said suspension but if you're sure it's okay (strut mounts for sure okay?) then here's a few other ideas:

- Loose bolts on the subframe
- Play in the CV joint
- You had the suspension apart so I assume brakes were part of that but just to be sure check for a loose bolt on the caliper/mount

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

some texas redneck posted:

Avoid the Accord if it's a V6 automatic. Otherwise go for it. Like PV said, the K24 is drat near bulletproof, as long as it's had something resembling oil changes. The V6 is a solid engine too, it just had a transmission made of glass and shattered dreams behind it in the automatic version (I think 2003 was the first year the V6 was offered in a manual).

The K24 is amazing in how lovely it sounds when it gets a lot of miles on it. It doesn't seem to affect performance, but poo poo, they're second only to the Subaru EJ251 and maybe the Ford CVH for sounding like they're about to barf pistons in their old age.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

some texas redneck posted:

Apparently you've never heard a D or F series with piston slap They get pretty drat loud once they get a lot of miles on them. More louder if you never adjust the valves.

Haha I looked it up and I was totally wrong on the year. The accords I was thinking of had the F23, and yeah, absolutely shocking piston slap with no real consequences.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Git Mah Belt Son posted:

Any reason why you guys think someone might have put it there? Any common reason someone would do that? Maybe to fix a rattle? Or is it a common tactic to cover up something more nefarious?

I took a photo while I was on the test drive.



I've seen spray foam used as a last ditch attempt to fill a space before slapping on a ton of bondo or to redneck fix a leak but I'm not sure that's what happened here. Either way you do not spray foam anywhere in your car. Eventually it'll hold water like crazy and everything around it will rust. Run away.

GiantDutchman posted:

Has any one heard of linglong tires? Are they just not great, are they dangerously poor? Any advice would be great.

When I bought an Impreza a while back the dealer threw some no name tires on it and I was equally unimpressed. Low and behold the first rain driving the car I got to experience unintended AWD drifting. I tried to wear them out but they were hard like legos and eventually they were just too much of a safety concern. You can yell at the dealer or budget for new tires.

8ender fucked around with this message at 15:50 on Sep 13, 2015

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Geoj posted:

I'm pretty sure there was a federal mandate in 2008 or 9 for DBW. Can't find anything substantial outside of theblaze.com-like sites with "LIEBRALS WANT YOUR CAR TO DECIDE WHEN TO ACCELERATE AND KILL YOU!!!!!111" articles, but there's no way all automakers would be putting DBW in the cheapest shitboxes on the road if they didn't have to.

I dunno, China is all geared up to make electronics like that dirt cheap, and it eliminates poo poo needing to go through the firewall which probably saves on assembly time. Probably easier to standardize parts across vehicles as well. I'd guess that when all is said and done DBW ends up being cheaper for them.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
As far as I can tell manufacturers have left manual DBW mostly linear because it would be a shitshow otherwise. On automatics they've just gone to town with strange responses.

The Camry is the worst offender for this. 20% throttle at 3/4 pedal followed immediately by a screaming V6 hauling rear end is exactly what I wanted trying to exit a mall parking lot, Toyota.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Santheb posted:

Took the car up, went and picked it up later and immediately noticed this awful noise that I can't really identify.

Take it back to the service centre and tell them about this.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

BLARGHLE posted:

Those of you with multiple vehicles- what do you about maintenance on your infrequently driven cars?

My truck only gets driven around town one day every week or two (or maybe three or four), and I'm wondering what to do about oil changes and other routine maintenance. If I go by mileage, I'd only be changing the oil like once every two years. If I go by time, I'd be changing the oil every few hundred miles.

What's a good rule of thumb? At least once a year? Every six months?

6-8 months between oil changes, use premium gas and put stabil in it if you're not draining the tank once every month or two, and a treatment with a battery tender once in a while can't hurt.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
Best thing you can do is get the door panel off and try to figure what has gone wrong. Failing that take pics and post them here and someone will probably be able to suss out the issue.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

gnarlyhotep posted:

Ok smart guy, where do I even go about procuring one of these Bitorubos? I'm being serious here.

We have a forum regular, 14 INCH DICK, who would just love to talk to you about Biturbos

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

IOwnCalculus posted:

They're too reliable. Maybe if you got one that had been horribly abused by some wannabe drifter...

Older straight six BMWs make the best project car. The engine and transmission are reliable enough that it'll always be a runner, but there's enough strange German engineering that there will always be something broken to fix.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Abu Dave posted:

I woudl say at worst maybe a foot?

One thing to consider is that pickup trucks aren't actually that good as a winter vehicle. Unloaded they have a light rear end and can be a handful, even 4x4s. An SUV has more weight over the rear, and the already mentioned independent rear suspension.

As for which SUV it's a hard one. The Forester is a drat tank but has only about 9" of ground clearance which might be an issue. The new Explorer actually has less than the Forester. If ground clearance is a big issue you might be best served by the 4runner TRD, which I believe has a good foot of clearance and likely an excellent AWD system. Otherwise if you think 9 inches is enough the Forester is really a great car/wagon/SUV thing and are amazing winter monsters up here in Canada.

Edit: Looking at older Explorers they actually had less clearance than the new Forester pretty much across the board. I have no idea what year your current Explorer is but if you're doing well in it then I'd strongly consider a Forester.

8ender fucked around with this message at 06:26 on Oct 18, 2015

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

ExecuDork posted:

Overall, I'm not impressed by that mechanic in Regina, and I'm still undecided on this local guy here in Waterloo.

I've been hearing excellent things about Autologix in Kitchener from co-workers. Seems to be the kind of honest, old school shop where they don't gently caress around. The only issue might be that they seem to specialize in Subaru's. Not sure if they'd take on your truck but it's worth a call.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

ExecuDork posted:

Thank you, I'll check them out!

I just want to add that since I posted that I drove a co-worker there to pick up his car and holy poo poo, run, don't walk to this mans shop.

It's like an AI wonderland in there. Shop seems sketchy as hell at first glance but inside he's got engines apart, turbos being reman'd, and he identified my Audi's engine just looking at the car and told me to bring it in for a cam chain tensioner.

He troubleshooted my friends car via photos sent over text message and then had all the correct parts waiting when he brought it in.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

22 Eargesplitten posted:

I found some rust. It's a month or two old, tops. I'm in Colorado, so we don't really get rust. What should I do to prevent it spreading? Also, what's the part that covers this spot called? I've never installed a new one because I don't know what to look for.



E: gently caress, tables, sorry. Phone posting.

You're looking for windshield weatherstripping for a Subaru Impreza. Or at least I assume that's an Impreza from the pictures.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Top Hats Monthly posted:

When did rev limiters become a thing really? I want to test reving up a car from the 70s but I refuse to take it even half close to the redline

If it's carbed it will happily blow right past the redline. Ask my poor old motorcycles.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Raluek posted:

Maybe someone who deals with modern automotive electrical stuff can shed some light on what that BCM is up to.

The hood switch and trunk light are good ones to start with, but a Cherokee isn't going to have a trunk light issue that isn't visible. Best thing to do is isolate the BCM and re-check the draw.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Enourmo posted:

Man you can't just recommend soft 8s for everything.

Just look at how wrong this guy is

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

PaintVagrant posted:

So I have a lovely old 1 car separate garage. Probably about 60 years old, roof is a little saggy but its not going to fall over on me (probably). The interior beams and plywood have some surface rot, all of our stuff that is stored in there gets a nice coating of flaky wood dust. It is wired for 110v power which is nice, and has a working power garage door.

I want to use the garage to work on cars, but I am on a tight budget. Rebuilding it or making any sort of massive renovation is probably not feasible. I was considering a couple of things.

-clean the garage out, powerwash/bleach everything
-then either staple tyvek to all the interior exposed beams and ceiling tresses, creating "walls" that don't "weep wood dandruff" or buy a paint sprayer and spray a couple of heavy coats of primer all over everything...or screw sheet plywood of some sort to the whole interior?

-then build a wall of cheap shelving using 2x4s and cheap wood

my tools are limited and I probably wont have much manpower to assist me with it, but I have a tablesaw and basic power drills/etc. I am reasonable handy. The garage door is offset to one side slightly, so the wider side will be the work bench/shelving side, and I will probably not build any shelving on the other side. Any suggestions or input?

Cover everything with OSB and then build some cheap 2x4 workbenches and storage. I did that to my old saggy garage and it's been great:

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

spankmeister posted:

If it ran empty the filter may have clogged

If the fuel pump is questionable they can also tend to kill themselves overheating if you run the tank really low.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Uthor posted:

Would a bent rim cause "clicking"? And it would quiet down at speed?


One thing that I can confirm causes clicking is loose lug nuts.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Christobevii3 posted:

Looks dirty, does it smell clean or dirty?

This is important. Dirty ATF usually means a bit of neglect but burnt or funky smelling ATF means there is an active problem with the transmission. Normal used ATF smells slightly plasticky but otherwise fairly neutral. ATF full of wrecked clutch bands smells like burning plastic bags.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Christobevii3 posted:

Electric lets you also have sport and lazy highway mode.

Mine even attempts to compensate for cross winds and graded highways which is sort of neat and unsettling at the same time

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

VERTiG0 posted:

My winter beater/summer rainy day car is a 2005 Mazda3 sport GT hatch that has 175,000km on it. It's got the awful loving dreaded Mazda rust on the rear fenders, and I believe also now inside the upper wheel wells where the struts mount to the unibody.

I smoked a wicked huge pothole yesterday morning on my very snowy morning commute and from what I can see under the wheelwell the holes where the bolts for the strut mount would go are just... Gaping huge holes now, rusted all the way through. The strut mounts are now just bouncing around inside.

I'm going to take it to my buddy's shop tomorrow to put it up on the hoist and have a proper look, but do people in such a situation weld a steel panel over the hole and re-mount the strut, or is this the end of the Mazda?

Steel reinforcement might help but it's going to be hard to get that patch aligned and reinforced properly for a strut to mount to it. Unfortunately you own one of the worst cars for epic rust made in the 2000's, so it might be a repair too costly to be worth it. I'd actually recommend a body shop to get a repair quote. I don't mean a brand name insurance body shop either. Seek out some shop run by a grey beard body wizard who is regularly fabricating new rockers for lovely salt belt domestic cars.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
I've been driving stick for 7+ years and I'm still improving things like rev matching downshifts. Agreed that the basics are there in about a week. Then you spend time on being smoother and using less throttle to get moving.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

Rufio posted:

Its the diagnostic tool for $80 that really threw up a red flag for me. Does this make any sense to use in order to find a "bad oil leak"? I'm gonna try to find someone reputable to take a look at it.

Likely they just wanted to charge you to find out where some seepage was coming from, but the bewildering choice of service writer speak was uncalled for. No, there isn't a diagnostic tool that they can plug in and magically find oil leaks and you were right to be concerned.

Generally my rule of thumb for oil leaks is that if it isn't leaving drops on the ground or a big streak along the bottom then it's a problem for future me. A lot of cars seep oil for years with no ill effect, and some seep for a week until some gasket lets go and they start pissing it everywhere. If you're concerned, finding someone trustworthy to source the leak may at least give you an idea of what future you is in for repair wise but honestly I'd just check the oil levels over the next week or two and wait for it to get worse, if there is a problem at all that is.

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep

punk rebel ecks posted:

Interesting. However, what turns my head toward the Yaris is that it gets pretty good gas mileage as well as has the Toyota reliability. I know I could get a Scion but they seem to get poor gas mileage. I just want a car to get me around that is reliable, cheap, good gas mileage, and can handle a trip across country or two.

The Yaris is not exactly a magic reliability monster in all cases. They had nasty issues with the engine wiring harness failing and the paint flaking off them. I think those issues were mainly the 2007-2009 ones though.

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8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
In Canada city cars suffer from stop and go traffic, short trips, and infrequent use. Country cars suffer from a constant hail of paint destroying dirt, salt and water. So really you're picking your poison. hosed drivetrain or hosed body.

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