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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

My neighbor has a F150, maybe 5 or 6 years old. He maintains it, he's not a jackass or anything. A month ago, his one wheel sheared off about half the lugs. He got it to the shop, they told him the remaining lugs on that wheel were loose. Now just yesterday, he was driving and his driveshaft broke clean in half. Like right in the middle. The tow truck driver mentioned something about the drive shaft looking like it was sawed partially through. He hasn't heard back from the shop yet on the matter, but he is convinced someone is trying to kill him. I can't imagine who, he is a nice guy who minds his own business and manages a small hardware store. So I haven't heard of driveshafts snapping like that, especially just driving down the road. Is that something that could happen? Is this just a string of bad luck and reasonable mechanical failures?

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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

A friend of mine was just quoted $1600 for a bad catalytic converter on a 2003 Camry. They said they had to replace both cats. He thought that was insane and found the exact parts for less half what they quoted. Strangely they're letting him bring his own parts and will do the labor. Does this whole situation sound odd? Were they trying to rip him off on parts? I'm not sure he should continue doing business with them, but he's okay with it.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Geirskogul posted:

If they only have a certain brand in stock, then that's fine.

Also remember, mechanics are a business and need to make a little money.

Geoj posted:

In addition to what was already stated, they could have been trying to sell him OEM or 50-state cats.

This is possible.



Extra posted:

Businesses charging a 100% markup on parts isn't ripping customers off it's part of running a business and paying people reasonable wages. Overhead isn't free especially in the case of a garage. I'm genuinely shocked they're OK with the customer bringing their own parts. If the customer brings in the wrong or a bad part have fun chasing after them about paying for the labor anyway and getting a lovely libelous yelp/google review. Plus if customers keep bringing in their own parts I'm guessing parts suppliers to the business aren't going to be too happy.

Internet continues to gently caress over small business as the company who can get the lowest price from the manufacturer/distributor wins.

If you want to do the work yourself that's fine but don't whine about the cost of poo poo you're too lazy to do yourself and try to hassle a business into doing it cheaper.

The fact that they let him bring his own parts is definitely what surprises me. Are you talking 100% markup over wholesale? Or over parts store? I'm not really concerned with the details of why shops charge what they do (2 hours "book labor" on something that takes 30 minutes in real life), but assuming its the same parts, we are looking at a 200% markup over the internet store. And if not, then it doesn't matter, but 100% over retail is also insane.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Geirskogul posted:

Hoo boy don't look up what that $800 pair of glasses I sold your mother costs if you think 100% markup is insane. There's a reason 100% markup is called Keystone pricing.

You're saying the shop goes down to the PepBoys, buys it retail, then doubles the price? I've never seen that. Maybe 20% above what someone would pay retail.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

A guy hit my parked car. Am I okay to accept a reconditioned bumper cover? I won't know the difference as long as it fits and the paint sticks to it.

What is Audatex two-stage refinish formula? Is that primer and paint? Or paint and clear coat?

This shop is pretty reputable from people I've spoken to.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I'm going on a 12 day 4000 mile trip in two weeks. Should I do anything special to be prepared?

I'm driving a 2012 Subaru Impreza. I'm already doing an oil change before I go, and thinking of putting in fresh headlights since they're the original bulbs. I have some basic hand tools, a tire plug kit, jumper cables, and a blanket that I keep in there all the time. Tires and brakes are good.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

spog posted:

Breakdown coverage.

I got roadside assistance with AAA, Subaru, and Liberty Mutual.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Liberty Mutual called me to tell me they accidentally issued the check to me instead of to the shop doing the repair on my bumper. The check is for $235, and they want me to pay that and my $500 deductible to the shop, which they will refund to me when they get the money from the other guy's GEICO.

I feel I shouldn't have to front any money, deductible or not, as this guy hit my parked car and was arrested for DUI.

Is this normal procedure? Should I not front any money for the insurance co? Should I ask them to stop the check sent to me and reissue a new on directly to the shop?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Any thoughts on window chip repair kits?

I was looking at this Loctite one - http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37613-Windshield-Adhesive-Syringe/dp/B0015POUIM/

The RainX one seems complicated.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

The dealership preinstalls these junk security systems on all of their cars. I didn't buy it, so they disabled it and left it in the car. It's a glorified shock sensor, and I've lived in enough apartment complexes to know that these things are poo poo and are typically found on old Civics, MR2s, and Integras with no clear coat.

Is it safer to just leave it there? Or is it better to remove it? I know it's deactivated, but I don't want it waking up one day if I remove the battery or something like that.




A whole bunch of taps


Closer



My concern is they cut my blue wire and have it going into their green and red. The white one is a tap I think. It's not easy to reach.



I guess pull the plug on all of the taps, and maybe remove the whole tap and hope the wire isn't ruined? I'd probably just connect the green and red wires to complete the circuit on the blue one.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Geirskogul posted:

gently caress that dealer, seriously. How recently did you buy the car? Have them remove it!

They wouldn't move on that, and I got a friends/family price, so I didn't want to cause any problems. I was really surprised at how common this is around Southern California. I found more dealers with it than without it.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

everdave posted:

Jesus Christ in heaven above if I found this in a BRAND NEW VEHICLE I absolutely would not accept it you are a better person than I man,

Next time I'm looking at cars, I'll bring some tools and pull open the dash. But for the price I paid, I'm willing to deal with a couple of wires.


Geirskogul posted:

Also they used a loving anodized screw and didn't even scratch away the powercoat for the ground wire!
E: unless that's bare metal - I'm on mobile and it's a small pic on my screen.

Bare metal, its under the dash below the steering wheel.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

kastein posted:


:rip:
They already butt-hosed your wiring harness with retarded poo poo. That one cut wire is probably the starter interlock that prevents the ignition switch from triggering the starter relay. If you remove it all, you are going to need to resplice that wire nicely, peel all the taps off, and cover the cuts in the wire insulation where the taps bit in with something like liquid electrical tape, preferably.


This was my plan. I just wasn't sure if it was safer to just leave this stuff attached.

When you say "resplice that wire nicely," I mean I've done plenty of soldering and shrink tubing, but on a table with plenty of open space. This is up high in a tight area. I've always heard butt crimp connectors are no good, but that's what they already used. I can't imagine they took the whole harness out into a reasonable area to work on it, and I'm sure there are tens of thousands of crimped connections out there just fine.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Krakkles posted:

What dealer in SoCal was this? I'm looking at buying a new car soon and this is scary.

Villa Ford in Orange. Off hand, I know Spreen Honda does it too. There were a few others I've seen that I can't remember. Check the Google and Yelp reviews for the dealers. South Coast Toyota maybe? They didn't pressure me at all about buying it when I said no, but its still in there.

I've also seen a few researching this "Rockledge Security." There's another firm, SouthWest Dealer Services, that goes around to dealerships training them on how to sell these alarms as an add on. It's like $40-$50 for the dealer for the part, then they owe the firm $150 on activation. So the dealer sells it for $300+. It's a lovely shock sensor that beeps a lot and disables the ignition.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

JibbaJabberwocky posted:

I can also get a set of Firestones for $422 but I guess the question really should be, will the Primewells last me at least 3 years until we can trade in or sell that car? If it were my car we'd get the best tires. But my husband's car is 15 years old and we wont be keeping it forever.

I'm probably going to shop around. We have a Walmart tire center near us and some other smaller local tire shops so we can see what we can find.

It's more about miles than years as for how long will they last.

Then when you get in to quality of tires - is this going to wear evenly over those 40,000 miles? As long as you're aligned and maintain air pressure and rotate regularly, good tires will. Bad tires will cup, scuff, wear unevenly.

I'm sure road noise might not be a huge concern, but there is a difference - better tires will be quieter.

The most important things - are these tires going to keep my car attached to the road? Better tires will effect cornering, braking, acceleration, emergency maneuvers. Do you want bad tires when a car pulls out of a parking lot without looking or a child runs into the street? And what if its raining? Or snowing?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Godholio posted:

They're not heat shrink, they're the cheapest terminals you can find in walmart. It's loose-fitting plastic.

It allows for expansion with temperature changes. :smithicide:

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Magnetic North posted:

I just remembered another problem with my car: my windshield washer reservoir has a big crack in it. I think it cracked when the radiator went when I was on the highway for a few miles and couldn't see the steam. It holds liquid but I guess without a seal it can't build a vaccuum to spray out well? (I think that's how they work anyway). With a New England winter coming, I'd like to have it working again.

This video shows a similar condition of a car, and also suggests a solution. I don't think I'm going to do it since I don't have a heatgun to plastic weld it, and the part is only about 30 bucks according to Amazon. My question is: do you think an amateur could replace that?

That's a lot of effort for a $30 part if it has massive holes like in the video. The washer fluid reservoir in my old Pontiac developed a crack and I just patched over it with epoxy putty and it held for years.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

What material are these modern wheel well fender liners made of? Its like some fiberous material, presumably to block sound.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Chevy Tahoe

Lower speeds like under 30 mph everything is normal.

Higher speeds, turning to the right, car pulls left and wants to stay straight. ABS light freaks out.

Brake getting stuck? Why only at higher speeds? Is it a wheel bearing or steering mechanism issue?

Dumb question: Is it safe to drive to a mechanic?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I was planning on going up to the mountains this weekend, and as I'm still relatively new to California, I had no idea "California Air Resources Board has made it illegal to sell winter, non-freezing windshield washer solution."

I don't want my lines to freeze, what is the best way of keeping my fluid from freezing without spending $$$ importing the good stuff? Does rubbing alcohol really work?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Just wasn't sure if it was unsafe for the pumps/lines.


32 oz of 91% isopropyl per gallon of water will take me down to just below 15 F. It shouldn't be getting below 20 degrees at night in these mountains, so I should be okay.




http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethanol-water-d_989.html

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I've had AAA for pretty much my entire licensed life. I have newer cars with warranties and all that. AAA was great when I was young and had lovely cars, and it seems pretty pointless now, but I like to have it anyway. Is there an advantage that AAA has over roadside assistance through my insurance company?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

When did Jeep stop offering smaller tires on the Wrangler? The 90s?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Putting HIDs in a halogen reflector housing is a big no, but what about in a halogen projector housing? Is there a difference with the projector lens?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I had my windshield replaced a while back, and whatever rearview mirror glue they used lasted about two years. I went to the AutoZone and got the Permatex kit, but that lasted me about three months before the mirror fell off.

Any glue recommendations?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

PainterofCrap posted:

Get the same rear view adhesive kit; except this time, be sure to scrape all residue off of the windshield & the mirror lug with a razor blade, wipe down both surfaces with alcohol, make sure your work area is over 65-degrees F and then glue it on again, being sure not to touch either of the mating surfaces with your greasy fingats.

The windshield has that black frit stuff at the mirror attachment point. The same glue is fine? The first time it fell off, there was some kind of pad, maybe like a peel and stick, on the metal piece that attached to the windshield. I removed that and attached the metal directly to the windshield last time. It seems like some kind of intermediary layer to mitigate the differences in heat expansion and contraction between the windshield and the metal would be a good idea, but I do not understand how these things work exactly.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Can I buy a car on Craigslist that has unsafe brakes and have AAA pick it up?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Are speed nuts / u-nuts one time use? I bought a used set of rock bars and I can't get the bolts to thread in them and noticed they're all deformed.

Also, if I lost one inside of my rocker panel should I try to get it out?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

TPMS - 35 psi
Digital Air Compressor - 38 psi
Stick/Pencil Pressure Guage - 31 psi (definitely cheap)
Analog Dial Pressure Guage - 41 psi (probably cheap)

Who do I trust?

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

What is the best way to do a waterproof splice that isn't solder? I love soldering but I'm being told on vehicles there is too much vibration and my wires will fail. I'm creating a wiring harness for some exterior lighting, with one set of wires splitting out into two.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I mean splicing two wires into a single wire. Like a tap, but waterproof.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Pomp and Circumcized posted:

It's difficult as water can easily get in between the wires.

OEMs use open-barrel splices which are then taped over. This results in a crimped joint which has the same size and shape as a soldered joint.

I'd say the heat-shrinkable butt splices would still work well in this situation. I generally don't use these, as they are longer, more rigid, thicker, and more expensive than other options. However they are good to use occasionally, outside of harnesses, or in a pinch. They seem perfectly suited for your application.

A lineman splice which is then soldered over shouldn't fail within the lifetime of the vehicle if done correctly (solder wicked throughout the joint). Such a splice should hold itself together even without solder. I use this method when I don't have any open barrel crimps to hand (which is pretty much always).

Another advantage of the open-barrel splice is that you can join wires of different gauges without trouble.

Open-barrel actually solves two of my problems. I have 14awg laying around which I'm using for most of the wiring, but the LED strips are 20 or 22 awg. A bucketload of open barrels is cheaper than a few step-down heat shrink butt crimps.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

spankmeister posted:

Wait a butt crimp is where the wires all go on on one side? In that case I meant the open barrel type where the wires go in either end, my bad.

Google says these are butt crimps

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003



Got a flat tire. Popping the tire off and patching the tube was easy enough. I can't for the life of me get this tire back on the rim. My bicycle levers just aren't doing it. I don't know if I really want to go out and buy a car size lever, or if there's something in between. I saw one guy on YouTube cut this wheel in half and then bolt it back together. I'm thinking of just buying a Harbor Freight wheel, but then I'd have to sleeve the wagon axle from 1/2" to 5/8".

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I should take this out, right? It's not leaking and I don't know how long its been in there.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Krakkles posted:

FogHelmut, aren't you an off-roader? You should really keep a plug kit in your truck, and this is a perfect chance to learn how to use it.

Maybe buy the kit before taking that out, though.

Oh yeah I have a plug kit in my truck, and I've plugged tires before. This is my wife's car. I don't know if it even made it past the tread and all the way in. It looks pretty old.

She's only about 5-10k away from new tires anyway. I had a plug in a tire for over 30k miles before with no issues.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

FogHelmut posted:

I should take this out, right? It's not leaking and I don't know how long its been in there.



I took it out and there was no puncture. The metal thing was like 1/8" long and not through the tread.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

I've been to 3 stores and no one had any washer fluid in stock. I guess there's a shortage of that too. Should I make my own from diluted Windex? I'm concerned about ingredients being bad for the car paint.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Krakkles posted:

Fog, you mentioned 3 stores ... like, auto part stores? Don't forget that grocery stores, Walmart, and dollar stores usually have washer fluid too.

Or mix up some of that Ukraine stuff, that sounds fun.

Target, Walmart, and AutoZone. Empty shelves where the washer fluid should be.

I bought some concentrate on Amazon, will arrive tomorrow. Distilled water is readily available.




Also, California bans the sale of low temperature windshield washer fluid in most of the state due to VOCs used in it's formulation which cause air pollution. There are a few areas that get cold enough for them to allow sales. But if I'm traveling somewhere that gets cold, I have to remember to dump some alcohol in my tank before I go.

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FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Does the clear window tint like a 3M Crystalline really do well to block heat? Will it cause issues if I'm wearing polarized sunglasses?

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