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I've got a 1999 Honda Accord V6 Sedan that I've been trying to sell for my dad. He told me there were no issues aside from a starting problem, but I never noticed it. The car is actually having a really rough time idling (they don't drive very well so I'm not surprised they didn't notice it).The car has always started when I've driven it hot or cold not sure if it was a fluke my parents ran into. Anyway, the rough idle is pretty bad, and I would be embarrassed as poo poo if I let someone test drive it this way. I should have taken longer video, but I'm dumb: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRh6KqzwvvE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rPR3aGle1I This idling seems to occur most often when in Park. When driving it definitely seems like the transmission is "slipping" and not smooth. Sometimes when I go to a complete stop, the transmission takes a split second to cut out so it's jerky. I ignored the OP anyway and threw parts at it thinking it was either the main relay or ignition switch, so those parts have already been replaced. Car has 108k on the odo and in otherwise great condition. I would hate to lose a grand or two on the value because of this. From what I've read it could be the IACV or spark plugs? Not sure what else it could be. Ideas welcome. Bank fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Mar 16, 2015 |
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Mar 16, 2015 20:23
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I just got back from replacing the spark plugs since they were cheap and needed to get changed anyway, but still no difference. I haven't had any braking issues but I'll check out the hoses in the brake booster area to see if there are any cracks/tears etc..
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Mar 16, 2015 22:20
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For my dad's accord I ended up giving the idle valve a deep cleaning and that resolved it I think. On a cold start it kept having a rough idle on park and neutral, but on drive it was fine. Driving around there wasn't any noticeable jerkiness, but I guess I will find out tomorrow for sure when I start it up cold again. I'm hoping it just had to re-learn the air/fuel mix.
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Mar 17, 2015 18:58
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Should I keep or sell this car? I have a 2005 Pilot and I've had it for roughly six months now. Got it from someone at work for around 5k (market around here is around 7k for similar condition/mileage). I haven't done anything to the car except the necessary fluid changes (oil/transmission) and the car is fine except for one thing: the transmission seems to subtly "slip" The gears change fine when parked and downshifts fine on hills. No weird noises when I drive. The only thing that bugs me is in the 15-30mph range it tends to be a bit sloppy while shifting. My wife doesn't notice it when she's in the passenger seat. When the gears change while accelerating, it shifts fine, it's just the timing is a bit..off? It's off by like 1/8th of a second. If I'm driving 30mph (what feels like 3rd gear) and let go of the gas, it sometimes takes 1/8th of a second to switch the gear back to 2nd, and when it does, the RPMs don't match up properly causing a very slight jerkiness to the car. If I baby the throttle I don't notice it. Reading about all the transmission horror stories makes me feel like I should just sell it, but the issues people have sound much worse than what's going on with my car. Could this be an easy fix? The car is great shape otherwise. I put almost 6k miles on it already..
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Jan 23, 2018 00:21
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Breakfast Feud posted:If you can make a nice profit off this car, sell it. It's one of those issues that might never lead to anything or it might be an omen. Since it's so vague it could take a while before you figure out what's causing it and all of the things you try will cost you money. Sounds about right =\ Every time I buy a used car I tell myself not to, then I buy new cars and wonder why I wasted the money.. With two young kiddos I don't have time to work on cars anymore. Looks like I'll be putting this up on Craigslist soon, before the transmission decides to poo poo itself.
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Jan 23, 2018 00:48
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This is a used car I'm seriously considering, but the only problem is this darn steering leak. I'm 90% sure it's coming from the reservoir/clamp, but it just looks like a lot.. Album: https://imgur.com/a/m9z1nER Car is a 2008 Sienna with 100k on the odometer, in California. I tried to get some good pictures under the car and where the reservoir is. As you can see there is a drip on the oil pan (it was dark red, so PS fluid and not oil.. the oil pan gasket looked fine), and the bottom part of the CV boot had the same fluid on it. I was able to trace the fluid from the reservoir on the PS line down to the CV boot so I really think it's an issue with the hose. If I buy this car I was going to just put a worm clamp instead since those tend to work much better. Any thoughts? If there's a stronger possibly this is the rack itself I won't be buying this thing as it puts the price over my budget for a cheap minivan.
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Aug 1, 2018 19:10
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Is it possible there was supposed to be a bushing there that fell out? If you check some parts websites they usually have a blowup of the car and you can see what was supposed to be there, if anything.
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Aug 1, 2018 21:52
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I've got a 2012 Mazda 5 that's been giving me some grief. It jerks hard when you smash the accelerator -- I drive it like a grandma to avoid it, but I think it's a transmission issue now which I want nothing to do with and will probably trade in the car (I know I'll take a beating on it at the dealer, but I'll figure it out). Problem is I just got back from a short 2 day trip and the car was sitting idle for those two days. I tried starting it this rainy morning and it just cranks and cranks.. https://streamable.com/k8fh4 I replaced the spark plugs about a year ago and the battery is about 2 years old. It doesn't sound like a starter problem, maybe a distributor/wire issue? I just want to get this fixed, drive it to a dealership and let them have their way.. I've never had to get the car jumped before. The last time I drove it was 2 days ago for about 5 minutes to move the parking spot. Thoughts on how I should troubleshoot this? Sucks that it's Sunday and my wife took our other car out, so I can't buy anything until later today. I'll probably end up buying new spark plugs anyway since it's a quick/cheap try.
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Dec 1, 2019 20:43
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Sorry it's faint due to the beeping..probably should have put on my seatbelt or waited for it to stop before trying.
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Dec 1, 2019 20:57
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For the starting issue I have, I went out to Walmart and bought a new battery just to rule it out. I swapped it then cranked the engine and the same thing happened -- whirr whirr whirr then I cranked in once more while recording and it started up. It was pretty rough idling so I left it on for a solid 5 minutes for the ECU to relearn everything. https://streamable.com/5gyte I started driving it out of my parking lot and after 150 feet the car completely died out. I started it up again (started on the first try) and started to drive around. At a stop light the car died again, and again I started it up. I drove around the freeway for 10 miles then stopped in a parking lot, and turned off the engine. After a few minutes I started the car up and had no problems. Drove it back 10 miles home and it drove pretty much solid. The car died at idle a few months ago when I disconnected the battery cables and re-connected them to try and reset the ECU.. This starting problem and my transmission issue seem oddly related to me for whatever reason. Could it be some alternator issue? I did inspect the belt and it definitely needs to be replaced. It's got cracks all over it and has never been swapped out (7 years now and 110k miles..). I'm going to do that ASAP.
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Dec 2, 2019 03:23
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Sounds good, I'll clean out the MAF assuming I can find it easily enough on the intake. Info about this car is not as common as a Civic unfortunately. Last time I had this issue I scanned the OBDII port and it came clean. I'll probably just buy spark plugs now given its like $12 on Amazon and swap those out just in case.
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Dec 2, 2019 03:55
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Chunjee posted:I would check the long term fuel trim and trouble codes if you have a scanner. Then inspect the air filter and clean the MAF sensor. Failing a fix there I would move onto inspecting fuel delivery and spark. After that timing and compression. Last, exhaust. Dude....I just got home with a $7 bottle of MAF cleaner and pretty much soaked the thing with the battery disconnected (was right in front of my face, thought they'd put it somewhere weird). After airing it out for a few minutes I hooked it all back up, connected up the battery and cranked the engine. First time it died immediately 😭 But the second time it cranked right up and no rough idling. Drove it for 15 minutes the car never died out, and the idle is loving rock solid at 0.6k RPMs 👍 So far so good. If this is all it was I'm seriously psyched because of all the people I asked, nobody mentioned the MAF. I've been living with thinking it was a tranny issue the past 18 months. Dirty caked MAF:  The other side of the MAF which looks clean: 
Bank fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Dec 3, 2019 |
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Dec 3, 2019 02:27
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Chunjee posted:That is fantastic! Well done Thanks for the info! I haven't started the car yet today but what you mention makes perfect sense as to why my car was running so sloppy through gears. Even though it's an auto the car kept feeling like it was slipping. The part that threw me off was it only jerked around in 3rd gear, which is why I kept thinking it was a tranny issue. I guess the car not starting was a blessing in disguise as it forced me to fix this issue rather than drive it gently hoping it doesn't die on me.
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Dec 3, 2019 17:23
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So the idle/starting issues all seem good now, but I'm still getting some hiccuping while driving (especially if I drive it a little harder). This didn't happen yesterday so I feel like it's some kind of other sensor issue (maybe the ECU gets updated while I'm driving?). I might pull out the MAF again just to see what it looks like after a day, but might even just buy a new one as a Denso goes for $70 for my car. I did drive it pretty much the same as I did yesterday, so something in the car's mapping must have changed..Or I just need to replace this drat serpentine belt first before doing anything else.
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Dec 3, 2019 20:52
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The hiccups are mostly just slight jerks here and there. On a 4th to 3rd downshift (when I gun it through a light or on the freeway) it jerks hard. Motor mounts look solid. Thing is, it drives fine if the battery is disconnected for 10-15 mins then started up again, but if I drive it again without disconnecting it, the hiccups come back. Seems like something ECU related. I'll give cleaning out the TB a shot. Looks like there's a gasket I'll have to pick up too which nobody around me has. I guess I'll just try cleaning it out first and worst case I'll have a vacuum leak to deal with next ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Dec 3, 2019 22:28
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I'm really hoping the car just needs it's TB cleaned at this point. Maybe what's going on is the car drives fine once reset since it's using all the stock settings, but the TB is so dirty it's sending carbon flying all over the MAF sensor causing the car to recalibrate itself? I don't know anything about how cars work other than being able to follow YouTube videos to take stuff apart like a monkey, so this could all be nonsense.
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Dec 3, 2019 22:49
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opengl128 posted:FYI the dirty little bulb is the intake air temperature sensor. The actual MAF sensor is down inside that channel (it looks like a very thin wire) so make sure that got cleaned off too. Oh, well poo poo. Guess I'll be taking it out again tonight. Thankfully it's just two screws and a clip.
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Dec 4, 2019 01:41
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Might want to try the car audio thread too, it's not stickied but pretty active from what I can tell: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3520908
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Dec 4, 2019 19:24
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I've only swapped out my power steering fluid once, and the only reason was because one of the hoses failed. Brake fluid I did once on another old car where the brake master cylinder died. For power steering and brake fluids, unless the manual says otherwise, I generally treat it as "lifetime" and never flush it out unless something was leaking.
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Dec 9, 2019 19:56
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My 2012 Mazda 5 seems to be driving fantastic now after getting the MAF cleaned out. But now I need to get the serpentine belt changed; In my 10+ years of owning cars I've never had to pay for it as I either did it myself (because access was stupid easy) or it was done right before I bought the car. Now that I have kids running around it's unlikely I'll be able to spend the time to take care of this myself. Is there some guidance on finding a mechanic to take care of this or can I just go to a Jiffy Lube or other random shop to get it taken car of? It looks like the job should take 1-2 hours, but that's me looking at YouTube and not actually doing the work. Passenger wheel needs to come off, splash shield removed, then access to the tensioner is there. Also, what's a decent price to pay for this? Part is around $25 and for 1-2 hours of labor I should look at $100-$150 for something reasonable and up to $200 max? Or am I being too conservative?
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Dec 16, 2019 19:02
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Soooo I cleaned the throttle body on my 2012 Mazda 5.. I'm in the car waiting the 10 or so minutes to relearn the idle. I can't believe how dirty this thing was.
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Jan 5, 2020 01:05
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I didn't want to risk mucking up the (very expensive) electronic throttle body so yeah, I disconnected the battery the whole time I took it out for cleaning, which resets the ECU. I bought a new MAF too, so I figure I should just do the whole shebang. After a nice spirited drive it drives like it did when I bought it. Anything else I should do? I drove it with rough shifting (due to dirty throttle body and MAF) for 18 months... I swapped the spark plugs about a year ago, should I do it again as a precaution? I guess I can just inspect them too.
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Jan 5, 2020 01:32
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Yeah, my local Home Depot charges something like $29 for 75 minutes to rent a truck from them. It gets you to buy more stuff, but it's so convenient and you don't risk trashing your car.
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Jan 6, 2020 21:43
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One of my buddies has a really old Toyota Tacoma from the 80s he bought literally to just haul stuff around. He lives in the city though so he has to re-park it every so often due to street cleaning, but I guess that's good to keep the car from sitting idle too long. The power steering either never existed or the pump went out, and it's a manual so its actually a blast to drive. I borrowed it when I sold my house a couple years ago and needed to trash a bunch of stuff at the dump. It stalled out on me really harshly a few times (not my fault I swear), but told him if he ever considered selling it, I'd be interested.
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Jan 7, 2020 00:10
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This reminds me of one of my buddies being too cheap to rent the Home Depot truck, needing 16ft lumber, and borrowing a pickup:
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Jan 8, 2020 02:31
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Stupid question: I've changed the brakes and rotors on a bunch of cars, mostly sedans, but it looks like it might be time to do it on my 2005 Pilot. Previously I used to be able to do it in my garage, but I no longer have a garage (just a carport), and no jackstands/floor jack other than the one that came with the car for the spare tire. Would it be dumb to do it with that or should I just take it in? I have all the other tools needed to do the job including the impact screwdriver, because Honda uses screws to hold these rotors on, just wondering if I should be more careful with this being an SUV.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:37
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tl;dr: An attorney for a speeding ticket in California cost me $500, officer didn't show up and my case was thrown out. I'd pay up if it happened again. I'm in California so it's a huge money maker for the state. About 6 months ago I was allegedly going 92 in a 65 zone with my family. The roads were clear for a good 2-3 miles and it was a long straightaway and honestly I didn't even realize I was going that fast. I thought it was 85 max.. He first checked my kids in the back to see if they had legit car seats (they were) and then asked me how fast I was going. Of course I told him 85 and of course the whole thing was being recorded (it's not obvious, but they use MVARS). After he got me to admit fault, he asked for license/registration and if my kids wanted CHP stickers :\ Sure, why not I guess. My main thing was to keep the whole thing neutral and not pissing the guy off so there was no arguing about it and we went our separate ways. I looked the officer up and he's a shift supervisor. gently caress. When I got home I was ready to pay up the ticket but found out in California if you go 25 over the limit, you don't automatically get traffic school, so I'd have to pay the ticket (high $400s), and get an automatic point on my record which means insurance goes up. Not to mention I am trying to get term life insurance and they would have to know about it too as part of underwriting. Sigh. So I looked up attorneys even though all the evidence was already collected and against me. I called them up and a paralegal took down some quick notes and gave me the quote of $500 (flat rate). I paid online and submitted a form where I included all the facts about my case. I didn't get much communication from them, likely because they were doing this en masse, but I looked up the case online and saw that he pleaded not guilty on my behalf and asked for the trial to be calendared ASAP. On the date of the trial I looked up other cases and if the officer showed up, the defendant was guilty 100% of the time, whether or not an attorney represented them. If the officer was not there, the case was thrown out. My case was in the afternoon, and thankfully the officer was not present and my case was thrown out. I got an email from the paralegal later that day telling me my case was "successfully defended" (wtf is there to defend when I'm 100% wrong?) and to leave a Yelp review. Looking back I'd still pay the $500 to get it sorted out, because: 1) The attorney knows the court system and likely knows the officers/judge to plead down my case, 2) May know when the officers would not be able to show up to court through their own connections, 3) I didn't have to drive 30+ miles out and take a day off work to deal with the justice system. I have seen other services that deal in even greater volume, but they basically do the whole song and dance of trial by written declaration and send some local lawyer to show up. My guy at least was the owner of his practice and was the one physically present at the courthouse. But yeah, I learned my lesson and don't drive that fast anymore. If I do, it's only because of the flow of traffic (which is still risky, as in California if you go 1mph over the limit it's still considered an offense).
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Jan 10, 2020 18:47
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Krakkles posted:I'm not sure this isn't urban legend, but supposedly federal law dictates a minimum accuracy for speedometers, which may invalidate that bit. (Worth saying: some half-hearted googling turned up rules about buses, trucks, and tractor/trailers, but not cars.) Either way, though, sure, technically it is, but no one in CA drives exactly the limit unless they're in traffic, so "flow of traffic" will always get you well above 1mph over. For the most part, the "basic speed law" only applies to non-highway roads in California. I know a lot of "ticket defense" websites say you can use it as a defense, but I've yet to see a successful one: https://leginfo.legislature.ca.gov/faces/codes_displaySection.xhtml?sectionNum=22349.&lawCode=VEH quote:(a) Except as provided in Section 22356, no person may drive a vehicle upon a highway at a speed greater than 65 miles per hour. Also, LIDAR is as accurate as it gets and reading about it is scary: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LIDAR_traffic_enforcement Good luck in any case! I've gotten my fair share of tickets and it sucks. Just hope the officer doesn't show up or asks the court re-schedule the case (this means they will definitely show up..).
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Jan 10, 2020 19:59
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Oh, gotcha. Yes I think we're talking about the same thing. LIDAR is not scary only for the accuracy, but due to how it is used. I had no idea it took a picture of your plate (I knew it shot a laser at your plate) then registers a beep once they've got you. Speedometers can definitely be inaccurate. Even just having custom rims/tires will throw it off, which is why most cops just focus on egregious speed. Citing someone for going 3-5mph over isn't worth it since folks will typically fight it.
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Jan 10, 2020 21:26
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If I were you I'd read the rest of the instructions to see what's up. Hopefully its just like a radio harness where you splice things outside of the car then just plug everything in.
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Jan 10, 2020 22:39
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It might help if you tell us what kind of car it is and what parts you're looking for. Outside of eBay or some car forum where you might be able to pick things up private party, I'm not sure where else you'd check though..
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Jan 12, 2020 05:04
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taqueso posted:Do HID bulbs dim over time? Mine seem to be dimmer than a lot of other traffic. It's possible these are 15 years old, no record of replacement from PO who was pretty good with that kind of thing. They do if you put a bunch of hours on them. I presume these are factory installed and not some eBay special? It could also be that newer cars are just way brighter as that's been the trend.
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Jan 13, 2020 20:15
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taqueso posted:Correct, these are factory HID 'with beam height adjustment' on a 2004 Volvo XC90. It looks like you'll either have to replace the assembly, or replace it with a halogen kit. Both sound like they are going to be expensive.. Replacing with halogen will cause your dash to light up with an error, and the only way to get rid of it is to get an ECU that has it set to "halogen" (your ECU is tagged for HID). Edit: ^^ Yeah, if it's just the bulb I'd just replace that for a few bucks.
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Jan 13, 2020 20:40
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Now that my Mazda 5 erratic idle is fixed thanks to carbon cleaning the throttle body and replacement of the MAF, I replaced the spark plugs since it was just $15 for a pre-gapped set (the prior ~1yo plugs actually looked fine, but since I inspected them I replaced them anyway). I'm wondering if there's anything else I should do to clear out the carbon in the motor. Is doing something like putting in Techron concentrate worthwhile, or is it just snake oil? One of my colleagues swears by it. I also have a couple of bottles of Seafoam but they're super old and it seems pretty invasive. Otherwise I'm fine with "do nothing" other than checking up on the MAF and throttle body every couple of years.
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Jan 16, 2020 01:01
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I'm gonna try to change my serpentine belt on my Mazda 5. It's a 2012 and I saw some folks use the tensioner and other folks (one guy, who I presume is doing it wrong) cut the old one off and install it using some belt stretch tool (piece of plastic). I presume I can just use the tensioner to loosen the old one off and then again to reroute the replacement? Anyone happen to know for sure?
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Jan 18, 2020 23:07
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So I'm a dumbass and can't get my serpentine belt back on..I got it off relatively easily but I guess the new one is too tight. I checked the lengths and they're the same as far as I can tell.. Given I have no belt, and just want this resolved (even if it cost me 300), would it be even stupider to drive this thing 0.5mi to the shop and pay them? Or should I just get it towed to a dealer or something?
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Jan 19, 2020 03:47
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Apparently to get the belt back on the car you need to loosen the tension and use a belt stretcher tool to get it back on. I found this out by calling the dealer to take the car in for service. So thankfully GEICO covered my tow and I'm gonna be out another $250 (yeah it's kinda outrageous but ehh). I'm gonna be glad once this is all done..
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Jan 19, 2020 21:08
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Weird issue on 2012 Mazda. The car seems to drive sluggish when the fuel tank is <25% compared to when its full.. looks like there may be two filters in the tank, could this be a pump issue? Maybe too much sediment in the tank?
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Jan 26, 2020 19:31
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Motronic posted:Sediment shouldn't matter as far as fuel level goes - it's always pulling from the same place. I haven't. Wouldn't a bad cap cause a check engine light though? I remember my wife's old Corolla needed 3 clicks and even if you did just 2 the light would come right up. I poured a bunch of Techron concentrate on an empty tank this morning. Seems to be driving better, but I think it's due to the full tank, not the Techron.
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Jan 26, 2020 20:53
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Colostomy Bag posted:Heh, was just going to suggest trying Techron. Let it "try" to do its job for 3/4 of the tank. Yeah I don't know anymore, this seems like something transmission related, unfortunately. 1 in 5 drives the car drives like a champ. 4 out of 5 it struggles with high RPM shifting. If I let the auto shift slowly into the gear then gun it, it's fine. I already cleaned out the throttle body and replaced the MAF in the past few weeks which fixed some other issues (surging at idle, not starting etc) but this shifting thing seems like a different beast. I may take it in for them to just check it out.. Other places online say Mazdas stutter at high RPMs but it just seems too harsh in my case (huge jerking, almost like the mounts are bad, but they're not).
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Jan 27, 2020 00:25
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