Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us $3,400 per month for bandwidth bills alone, and since we don't believe in shoving popup ads to our registered users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
«7 »
  • Post
  • Reply
Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Powered Descent posted:

Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb.

My car is a 2005 Mazda3, which takes H7 headlight bulbs. Tonight after changing a bulb (and fighting with that STUPID retaining clip ) it occurred to me that my car is the last bastion of the incandescent light bulb in my life. It would be great to switch to bulbs that will last basically forever, and never have to deal with said retaining clip ever again. Google tells me that such LED bulbs do exist, but I don't know whether they're any good or not.

e: Note that I'm not exactly a gearhead, which explains my preference for a nice easy drop-in solution.

If you want, there was an HID option for the 3. It was on the Grand Touring spec at least from 06 on; in 2005 it might have only been on the SP23 but I'm not sure. Don't know what kind of work it would require to switch over but I never considered it because the halogens on this car are pretty good.

edit: and those also had LED taillights if you want those.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

MRC48B posted:

Emissions laws, probably. With the parts store reader you can reset your codes to try and dodge emissions tests.

Yeah, this is the supposed reason, although I wonder if it really mattered because then your readiness state wouldn't be set in the ECU until you complete the proper drive cycles.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Safety Dance posted:

The actual reason and the reason the lawmakers understand don't necessarily have to be the same.

Hence my use of the word supposed. :P


totalnewbie posted:

Is it an Autozone thing or any shop in California, Hawai'i, etc? If it's the former, could just be a regional store policy for whatever stupid liability reason or whatever.

All the chains in California are this way now. I don't see any evidence it's an actual law but probably a reaction to a reinterpretation of an existing law or a class action lawsuit.


Motronic posted:

No. I don't know where he got that idea.

Spinning the tires won't do anything at all to destroy the diff. Heavily loading them repeatedly to spin them will obviously cause issues (like on dry pavement), but that has little to to with FWD/open diff/LSD. But the most likely place to break parts when spinning tires - which again has nothing to do with FWD/open diff/etc - is when they're spinning and you suddenly regain traction, like going from mud to dry tarmac or spinning on a patch of ice and then hitting dry hitting tarmac.

If it's a Mazda doing anything would break the LSD. You're better off with an open diff :P


LeeMajors posted:

Also, I'm not sure if other links are frowned upon heavily here, but here are some resources for you. 3rd generation specific.

Linking to any useful resource is great! Don't know why it would be frowned upon.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Really though if you're rally crossing your car you don't expect anything to break?

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

within the past 5 years or so

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

kastein posted:

My understanding is that the "californian stores won't read codes" thing is an overly broad interpretation of "don't clear codes for people" or a ham handed smog law of some sort.

The sad thing is that it's all loving pointless because you won't pass emissions checks if you show up with all your monitors reading "not ready" because you got a store employee to clear your codes anyways.

I've emailed Autozone customer support for a clarification of their policy.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

nitrogen posted:

You might want to invest in one of these things, and a smartphone app like torque or EngineLink as well.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS
Here's one that's rated a little better!

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

melon cat posted:

Just following up on my smashed side-mirror.


I tried to remove that black panel (circled in green). But had no luck getting it off after an hour of swearing and fighting with it. Then, I heard the crackle of plastic, so I stopped pulling at it. I tried pulling it off both by hand and through the use of a slotted screwdriver. but only the top corner was coming off.

Also- how do I determine if my sideview mirror is a heated one? Just asking for when I order a replacement piece online (there are heated and non-heated versions). I noticed two cables attached to the mirror glass's rear (circled in red). Does this indicate that the mirror is heated?




Were you trying to get it off with the door open? Can't quite tell from the photo but the plastic may be pressed against the door frame. Heated mirror glass typically has the plugs in the back of the glass like that.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

AmyL posted:

What if I didn't have an Android or a IPhone? Would http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Reset-...r/dp/B007OZ2VC4 be a good buy?

If you perchance have a Windows Phone I've gotten the one linked before to link up to my phone but haven't tested it extensively. I just tried a free version of an app and I didn't have any codes stored at that time, but all the other stuff worked.

edit:
Here's a standalone unit for cheap with 3,000 reviews.
http://smile.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiS...s/dp/B001LHVOVK

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

On a similar topic, I talked to an AutoZone regional representative, and he stated the reason for not loaning out the scantools was because it's considered performing repairs without providing an invoice (?) which violates the rules of the bureau of automotive repair. Not sure I 100% buy it but it was a more clear answer than I've ever heard. Someone else can try getting an answer out of the other chains.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Slavvy posted:

This could apply to pretty much any manual trans though. Autos are a different ball game entirely. Most danuals can last practically forever without changing the oil (performancy cars excepted).

My Mazda 3 really didn't like it when I skipped the 30k mile fluid change for the manual transaxle. It got really tough to pull out of gear @ 40k. Never really felt something like that before. Maybe just a fluke obviously. But yeah the new skyactivs don't seem to have an interval on either transmission which I call a BS on.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Geoj posted:

How cold are we talking? You'd have to be pretty far into double-digit negative temperatures for ATF to become viscous enough to effect shifting. The only other explanation I could think of is if the shop used the wrong type of fluid, either for your transmission or for weather local to where you are.

I've had several cars that will hold lower gears / not shift into overdrive until warmed up.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Michael Scott posted:

My '04 Camry is having this issue. It doesn't help that the old ATF was pretty gummy before I flushed it. I'll get on the highway with only a semi-warmed up engine and it'll stay stuck at 3,500 RPM until it warms enough and suddenly upshifts and goes to 2-2.5k RPM like normal.

I hope it's normal enough to not kill it.

In my case it is by design and is tied to the ATF temperature rather than the engine coolant temperature (which is what you see on your gauges). The manual probably mentions it. In my case, it is perfectly normal. You have to look up yours but it sounds normal, especially if it's only keeping it out of the top gear (overdrive).

Slavvy posted:

Indeed, some older autos have a temp sensor specifically for it to know when the ATF is warm enough to allow OD to engage. My mother's trooper was like this.

Weirdly my Mercedes manual says it is tied to engine temperature (it specifically states 80 degrees or something) but it obviously has its own sensor by the way it behaves. First year model printing error?

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Perhaps. There was something else that made me think that too but I can't remember what now. I'm really getting off topic though. But, more off topic, funny fact, the gauge is actually labeled in degrees Celsius and moves around between 80 or 90 or so unlike other cars I've had where it just stays in the center.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

totalnewbie posted:

Plugs in those car are (almost certainly) nickel and should be cheap to replace. I don't know about that particular engine, but nickel plugs are a couple bucks each and shouldn't take more than a few minutes to change. (Or, certain cylinders could have plugs in very difficult to reach places, in certain engine/vehicle combinations.) Nickel plugs last about 30k miles.

If it smells like fuel then your car is running rich, which is a not-uncommon symptom of a bad O2 sensor. Whether or not the cat needs to be replaced depends on how long and how rich it's been running, but I wouldn't doubt that it's probably been damaged. If it actually smells like fuel inside the car then it may be indicative of an exhaust or fuel leak, both of which can be dangerous.

Unlike its LH big bro it's a transverse layout so the rear bank might be hard to reach.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

IOwnCalculus posted:

There's also the distinct possibility that, you know, the rotors / pads were just defective. Given that they apparently managed to put the wrong fuel tank in the car, some less-than-great rotor castings and pad materials is no surprise to me.

Quality is job 1

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Yeah, PZEV warranty is actually 15 years :P
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parti...issions_vehicle
Whether or not that applies to the battery I don't know. See the part about the 10 year warranty for the traction battery, which in this case states PLUG-IN hybrid vehicle which that Accord is not and according to the article none of those actually exist. This of course is a Wikipedia article and I presume you've done your own research. Also hybrid is a separate trim from EX and LX, also isn't it a V6 hybrid?

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Highbrow Slick posted:

Yeah I noticed that even the Honda site says 15 years which is a crazy long time. Even the ARB rep on the phone said 10. The battery most certainly qualifies as an emissions component, and although the car is a V6 it definitely is a PZEV. It's just a little jarring that there seems to be little awareness about these warranties, and that Honda was almost aggressively oblivious to the ARB regulations. If I had not read up on it and known to contact ARB, escalate the issue to get a case number from Honda & file a warranty complaint, the car would have essentially been the driving dead.

I don't see any indication the 2005 Hybrid is a PZEV vehicle (the 2006, however, is apparently AT-PZEV). There should be a sticker on the underside of your hood with emission information. A PZEV vehicle will have a zero-loss evaporative emissions system (EVAP). I'll have to go look at my car to see what it says to give you an example. Whether the battery is considered an emission component is up to the ARB.

I don't think the car would be driving dead; it has a 240ish horsepower V6 engine in it. It was marketed as the top of the line performance version rather than an economy version. See what the Accord hybrid forums say about having a dead IMA battery; on the Civic and Insight you can get by without one but the Accord system is different from those and didn't sell well so there isn't that much info about it.

Edit: Also the CARB is notoriously lovely. At one point it was being run by a diploma mill person. Maybe it still is. Sacramento didn't seem to see the problem with it. I don't live in California anymore so haven't kept up. It wouldn't surprise me to hear manufacturers or at least local warranty reps may try and play the not understanding the emission warranty game.

Charles fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Mar 5, 2015

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

The XT won't suffer the head gasket issue. The XT has a more sporty suspension than the base models, but at this age the struts are probably not top notch anyway.

I think you should post in the Subaru thread about XT info. It runs an STi motor with a smaller turbo. They're potentially pretty beasty machines but I don't recall if they have any pitfalls.

Charles fucked around with this message at 10:55 on Mar 6, 2015

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

What kind of car is it? Maybe somebody's made a true auxiliary input for it.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

What's your A/C ghost? Maybe somebody here could help with that too.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

lol internet. posted:

Would there be any reason why my bluetooth ODB2 reader with Torque pro can read the ECU on a 2007 Scion but it appears to not read a 2002 Civic?

I assume the reader is a POS?

I thought I've read on here that the ELM327 clones have some trouble with those cars but I can't find the relevant post. I think maybe it was Some Texas Redneck? For my Mazda though I actually needed the engine running for whatever reason.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Git Mah Belt Son posted:

No codes and still no blinking light, so I'm just going to chalk it up to being a fluke and keep an eye on it.

RIP in advance.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

How much is a bunch. Seasonal tire changes happen every year without any problem.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

b0nes posted:

Also am I obliged to fix stuff on the car?

Yes.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Omglosser posted:

Well I would expect the position to go up to 100% when I press the pedal to the floor, not 81.2%. Also it shouldn't read at 15.7% when the car is off and my foot is off the pedal, should it?

I'm pretty sure those are the exact numbers my Mazda 3 gives me for the position of the gas pedal. It's normal.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Memento posted:

Parts places will do it for free as long as you're not in California, where there's a law saying that you can't get it cleared by anyone unless they're licensed or something. It's supposed to stop people clearing their own codes before smog checks I think, ignoring the fact that if you clear your codes that will show up on the smog check and you won't pass it because you haven't done enough drive cycles.

I talked to an AutoZone rep about this; it has to do with performing work without providing an invoice. This violates on of the rules of the Auto Repair Board or something.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Blow posted:

The car stops fine with no noise when I am going straight.

!!! You already said the inside of your brake discs is all scratched up! Why are you ignoring that.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Slavvy posted:

Or, seeing as you literally only have to take one wheel off the car, you could check your brake pads?

Here's my own stupid question: could you have a caliper stuck on one side? Like the inside is metal on metal and outside is okay?

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Uthor posted:

I got in my car, put on my seat belt, and my car kept beeping and flashing at me to put on my seat belt. I looked under the seat and the electrical connections seem solid. How do I begin troubleshooting this?

Related, is my air bag disabled if the car thinks I'm not wearing my seat belt? I can deal with the warnings, but I don't want to airbags disabled because of it.

2007 VW GTI

(This is like #6 in the list of (unrelated) electrical issues I'm having; guess I did buy a VW after all! I was worried with it working pretty well up until now.)

Don't know about diagnosis but if it thinks the seatbelt is unbuckled the airbag will not deploy as forcefully (dual stage airbags were federally mandated unfortunately). It is a safety issue. Sorry.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

some texas redneck posted:

Do you not have another key matching the rest of the locks in the car? If you do, you can probably get in through the trunk (turn it left instead of right). If not, you'll probably have to find a way to get to a dealer, with proof of ownership (insurance ID card usually works), and get them to order a key for you. A valet key will be cheaper, and should (probably) unlock the passenger door and turn the ignition, but won't unlock the trunk.

Also try turning the key as if you were unlocking the door twice, if you haven't. I'm not sure about BMWs, but that unlocks all the doors on most cars I've owned, instead of just the drivers door.

Or hold the key in the unlock position for a few seconds, it may start to roll down your windows.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Arrath posted:

Tires! I'm not sure if this is the place to ask but I didn't see a tire megathread so here we go.

If it matters I'm driving an '02 Silverado 1500 and right now it has Toyo M-55s on it (to quote the sidewall: LT 235/85r16 M-55 M+S) that are getting near being slicks. So it's new tire time.

I work construction, which means I get a lot of highway miles commuting to and from work, as well as miles on big projects with roads that range from 'grubbed dirt track' to 'we bladed in a load of 6inch minus, good luck!" or even fresh shot rock with sharp as gently caress edges, so tough tires are certainly a requirement. As well as the typical jaunts up logging roads to go shooting in random borrow pits.

Please recommend me a tire, I really don't know what I should be getting. I do understand that good tires (like the ones I have that have lasted me a long time) may cost some money, that's fine. I'm not expecting some $75/ea shitpiles to fit my needs.

I usually recommend people to check out the reviews on Tirerack.com and even discounttire.com. I don't know if people review the truck tires on there as much but it's worth doing some quick research.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Edit: do you mean you only have 10-20% tread left or only 10-20% worn?
If your tires are really worn that low anywhere they need to be replaced regardless. Someone else can answer the rest of the questions though, I don't know. Maybe need an alignment?

The Mandingo posted:

I live in Dallas, Texas and I have a 2010 Honda Civic LX coupe which just turned 64,000 miles. I purchased it in January 2013 used with 34,000 miles, it was a 2 year lease before that. The last time my maintenance light went off, it was for an A13 service, so I dutifully had the oil and filter changed, rotated the tires myself, and then waited until two weeks later for when it was convenient for me to have the transmission fluid drained and filled.

When I went to pick it up from the dealership, the mechanic suggested a power steering fluid flush and a brake fluid flush. I worked at a dealership during college so I know how much mechanics love to recommend services that are easy to do and pay good hours, so I declined so I could do further research. I had the pads and rotors replaced about 7,500 miles ago. I check and keep the master cylinder and power steering reservoir filled on a monthly basis. The steering feels fine and doesn't make any whining noise while turning and the brakes don't feel spongy. The fluid for both is dark. I've found various maintenance recommendations on the internet but nothing definitive. Should I have the suggested service done?

It's been at least two years since the brake fluid has been flushed if I understand right so personally I would bleed the brakes as brake fluid absorbs water over time. Whether you do that at the dealer is another question. It probably isn't something you need to do right away unless it's been especially contaminated or under repeated heavy braking, etc. Don't know about the p/s fluid.

Edit: I'm really slow at typing on the tablet.

Charles fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Apr 2, 2015

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

musclecoder posted:

Nope, no check engine light. And it get's to midway on the temp gauge and then I turn the A/C off, I'm worried that the car will overheat and shutdown.

How do I tell if the engine's cooling fan is running? Is there a reason the A/C runs great when the car is moving (it runs amazing if I'm on a highway going 50+).


Stays around 1500. No major drops there. How much do new motor mounts go for + labor?

Thank you both for your replies.

Shouldn't the engine idle at about half that?

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

musclecoder posted:

Yes, I completely pulled that number out of my rear end but I checked when leaving work and the engine was at 800rpm.

Ah, that's good. It will idle higher before it warms up though, so thought maybe you looked while it was still cold.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

MRC48B posted:

There is a technical reason for that as well, as the fuel pump uses the gasoline it sits in as a heat sink. Run the tank completely dry and on some designs you have a chance of burning out your pump.

I hear this from people but is it really true?

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Geoj posted:

Sounds like your lights are out of alignment. Procedure for aiming is usually park the car on a level surface X feet/meters from a flat background, measure the distance from the ground to the center mark on the headlight, then add Y inches/centimeters to this and make a horizontal line on the surface. Then you raise/lower the beam until the cutoff is on that line.

I can't remember the formula off the top of my head, it's been a while since I had to aim headlights.

e: this might help: https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

He's driving from a RHD country to a LHD country.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Maybe go someplace besides Sears?

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

some texas redneck posted:

If the Suzuki just needs a new cat, pick up a Walker 16576 cat from Rockauto before you move and have it installed locally (the Walker is the only 50 state legal cat sold on Rockauto, though you still can't buy it in California). You can be truthful and say it was replaced in Alabama (just say it's been on there awhile, and make sure you drive it as much as you can before the move so it doesn't look brand new). They'll still smog it. (also what is it with Forenzas and cats? I've known 2 people who've needed new ones before 100k). You're probably right in that the Forenza isn't worth shipping, but it's at least a vehicle you know, and you know what to expect from it.

Form REG 31 is for someone else to fill out (needs to be filled out by a "authorized DMV employee, law enforcement officer, or licensed vehicle verifier (no charge for vehicle verification at DMV offices)"), while Form REG 343 is for you to fill out (and looks like a pretty standard title application). You only need REG 166 if a lienholder is still listed on the titles. The only other thing you need is a smog certificate.

Honestly, looks a lot like bringing a vehicle into any other state, I had to fill out the same stuff when I bought a car from Georgia, and get it smogged/verified before I could register it (except when they did the safety/smog, they also verified the VIN, but I'm in TX, not CA)

They'll check the VIN when you register the car, but yeah it can't be smogged if the check engine light is on or not all of the readiness monitors are set. Otherwise you should be golden. Smog is done at a test station, while the paperwork is done at the DMV. Make an online appointment for the DMV and skip the line

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Gnossiennes posted:

This is great information, thanks! We've never registered a vehicle anywhere but Alabama, so it's still kinda confusing, but it looks like it'll be ok.

I think we're pretty well decided on not keeping the Suzuki -- I really don't think it's worth getting a new cat and shipping it (and there may be more wrong with it). So, now we just need to figure out how we're going to replace it. I'm guessing buying a car IN California is easier than bringing one from out of state, right?

And yeah, we're pretty aware of the taxes and fees, but I'm sure we'll still be stunned by the ones we just don't think of! I still think we'll enjoy it more than Alabama, albeit not on the cars/taxes front (despite being Alabamian, we don't really care about guns)!

Yes, buying a car there will be easier because then it's the seller's responsibility to get a smog certificate, so you don't have to worry about that.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply
«7 »