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Issue: Rear passenger power lock makes a horrific, loud, scary grinding noise when it activates to the locked position. Problem: I don't know which part to buy so that a friend of a friend can replace it on the cheap. Car: 2009 Honda CR-V VIN: Begins with "J" This is the closest I've gotten: Category: CR-V / 2.4L L4 / Electrical-Switch & Relay / Door Jamb Switch http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=935752&cc=1443927&jnid=437&jpid=1 and my friend found this: http://www.jcwhitney.com/2007-2009-honda-cr-v/door-lock-actuator/p3038905d9015y2007-2009j1.jcwx Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Mar 25, 2015 |
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Mar 25, 2015 18:43
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Slavvy posted:It's the second one. On the same page, just to the right of the image, under "SELECT VEHICLE" I punched in my car make and model (CR-V EX) just to be on the safe side and now the site says in red block lettering "This product does not fit your 2009 Honda CR-V EX" This is why I never graduated beyond changing oil filters. this has to be it http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OEM...06718df&vxp=mtr Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Mar 25, 2015 |
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Mar 25, 2015 20:08
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Slavvy posted:Why don't you just take the old one out and punch the part number into google. I'm having someone else work on it. If I do anything to the car it will take me the normal time + 5 hours, and its our daily driver to work and I have two kids to take to daycare. He was able to find the OEM on Ebay so looks like I'm good there. Is there a rule of thumb on car detailing before you try to sell it? The car has wear and tear for a 7-year old vehicle, scratches, minor dents, and a pea-sized rust spot on front hood. My wife and I are arguing about whether we'll get back more than we put in when it comes to trade-in dealer or private party value. Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 13:03 on Mar 27, 2015 |
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Mar 27, 2015 13:01
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Thanks for the suggestions. The dealer offer range between $5.9k - $7.5k / private party $7.5 - $8.3. I actually have a small bottle of the paint I bought a long time ago when I thought I would try to take care of the rust spot myself, so I'll dab over the rust spot and see how it looks and apply it to a small scratch to see how that looks.
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Mar 27, 2015 14:23
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Cosmetics concern. What types of materials are the best at not sticking to (and/or damaging) black leather? Our kids ride in car seats and I want to protect the seats from indentations. I'm open to a DIY solution such as (cut-up yoga mats) or some old towels, or a commercial product, I just want something that isn't going to fuse with the leather like cheese slices on the surface of Venus. We live in Miami so its going to be really hot and melty inside pretty soon. Black car with black leather. I'll use anything as long as it doesn't stick to the leather and become impossible to separate without damage. Suave Fedora fucked around with this message at 16:18 on Apr 1, 2015 |
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Apr 1, 2015 16:12
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Kvlt! posted:I do have a car in great condition that I wouldn't mind working on. Might buy a broken engine like you suggested. Seems like I'll do an oil change, as my car is do for one anyway. Thank you! Buy the repair manual too. It's preferable to resorting to your tablet to pull up instructions. I'm in similar straits. I bought a 2000 Ford Ranger for $2,250 (only 67k miles on it, couldn't pass that up) as my beater, but the exterior makes it look like it was garaged in Beirut. I just bought new shocks that I plan on installing with the help of a neighbor. Be bold! Just don't work on your daily driver.
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Apr 7, 2015 21:08
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ExecuDork posted:
You have the right idea. My truck is the basic model V6. I couldn't tell you the exact literage (gently caress you I made it up) but it has the extended cab with the little babby seat(s?) behind the driver side. Rear-wear drive. So far it's been as expected. It's a beater truck with completely-shot suspension, the A/C works, the power steering sounds like a wounded animal, radio works but sometimes turns off on its own (I power it down after driving to avoid mishaps with the battery). He's never left me stranded yet, but did give me a dead battery at home once, possibly due to aforementioned radio poo poo. The exterior looks like dogshit and I tried to cover the fiberglass of the bed with fiberglass patches and resin and that lasted about 9 months before the resin started to disintegrate. Um sometimes the key gets stuck in the door, I have to replace the seats because they lean in towards the door, and the tailgate is missing the handle so I had to remove the plastic back to the tailgate so I can open it manually by pulling the metal rods connecting to the two latches on either side. I've replaced the rear brakelight covers myself. This is my truck. There are many others like it but this one is mine.
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Apr 16, 2015 19:59
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Is there still such a thing as a break-in period for new engines? I'm at 1k on the 2015 Dodge Durango and would like to know if I could open her up already and ride more masculinely.
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Apr 16, 2015 20:00
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quote:ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS I can feel the hair on my chest growing.
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Apr 16, 2015 20:28
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