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mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

AquarianFire posted:

2002 Nissan Sentra...stalling...

1. Does the 2002 Nissan Sentra even have a serviceable fuel filter? I keep reading online that it does not and I'd have to change out the entire fuel pump instead (??)
No, it does not.

quote:

2. Wouldn't the mass air flow sensor throw a code?
3. Could it be anything else?

Unplug the MAF. Any change?
Phyiscally remove the crank sensor and check for oil in the connector.


Slavvy posted:

97 Toyota Tercel with a 4E-FE. Efi is a simple MAP sensor system with an electronic distributor, one 02 sensor and not much else.

Unplug every sensor. Does it idle on ECM default readings?

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mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Slavvy posted:

At least parts cost a pittance.

Sounds like it's narrowed down to management systems, at least.

Question re: 2003 Toyota Echo A/T, crank, no start

We got this in as a trade, and I picked it up to replace my mom's identical car, since hers has the rockers and subframe rotting out, and this one does not. Customer drove it in on its own power, with no real issues. I left it outside in freezing temps for a week or so, now it won't start. No codes. Has spark. Techs at my shop told me fuel pump wasn't running. Replaced with wrecker part, no change. I can feel the pump run with my hand on it. I have only the key the customer drove the car to us with, which worked when we drove it in the first day.

What's next?

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Slavvy posted:

Assuming you don't have a scan tool that can go beyond just looking at fault codes, unplug an injector and stick a pulse led on it to see if they're getting a signal.

Has it got an immobiliser? And is this a 1SZ or a 1/2NZ engine?

No immobilizer, looks to be the 1nz-fe.

Pulse led? Is that some kind of special injector pulse reading tool? Or just any test light?

What would cause all the injectors to fail a week after running fine? Or are we thinking they aren't getting the signal to fire?

I'll check that and anything I can read off a scan tool tomorrow.

I want to get this going for my mom but not if it's going to be unreliable. And after she just bought me a car for my birthday!

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Slavvy posted:

It's basically a little round plastic disc with an LED inside and two terminals. You plug it into an injector connector to see if the injector's getting a pulse - safer for the ecu than a test light.
So I found no injector pulse to any injector

quote:

The fact that it's no fuel AND no spark makes me think CKPS, look at the live data and see if you can see both crank and cam sensor signals.

When this car came in, we scanned and it had an EVAP code. I tried to get crank sensor readings, or any DTCs today, and it can't connect through the DLC.

No DLC + no injector pulse/nostart = bad ecu? Why would this happen so suddenly?

ExecuDork posted:

I'm a little confused about the process here. Is it:
1. Find a car, test-drive it, buy it
2. Go to an insurance broker and get car insurance
3. Go to a MTO office and register the car, get plates.
4. Drive, be happy.
?
or do I have the order of operations wrong?
This is the right order, except if you purchase through a dealer, including used car lots, they'll licence it for you with proof of insurance.

quote:

My confusion is: can you drive around for most of a week without plates? Do you get temporary plates of some kind when you buy a car? Do I ask the seller to leave the plates on the car until I can get the registration and insurance all arranged? Can you get an emissions test with temporary or previous-owner's plates?
MTO will provide a normal plate with a temp sticker that is good for 10 days. You can only do this twice for any car, so best to register before it expires. With proof of insurance, you just go buy the real sticker and put it on the plate.

quote:

EDIT: I'll be moving to Kitchener/Waterloo, if that makes any difference.

This is where I live, so let me know if you need any assistance. As a bonus, I work at a dealership.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Thanks. I'll double check voltage at the injector plugs. I did check the EFI fuse and it was ok. I know there were a couple weird fuse names, and I checked most, but AM2 doesn't ring a bell. Looks like multimeter time.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

two_beer_bishes posted:

98 Civic EX 5MT. The shifter won't go into first gear! Every other gear is available and engages smoothly. The clutch pedal feels normal (changed the fluid in August or so). When you move the shifter forward into first, it feels like something is blocking it and pushing the shifter to the right at an angle as you push forward. It moves forward about half way before you feel it being deflected. I don't have time to get underneath it until tomorrow, but anyone have any ideas?

Is this when stationary? Is it really cold where you are? Two of my cars nearly refuse to go into first when it's cold unless I'm standing still. Like not even rolling in the driveway. When warmer, they're both less picky.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

1998 Mazda B4000, manual.

Last year, it was hard to shift into first and second. Very quickly, I couldn't clutch at all. I ended up replacing the clutch friction plate, pressure plate, slave cylinder, master cylinder and hydraulic line between them. Aside from the weird plastic fingers that hold the master cylinder pushrod to the pedal breaking when I breathed on them too hard, everything was great.

Last week, I noticed it started to get hard to shift into all gears equally. There is no noticeable drag, so I don't think it's a bad clutch or slave. (This is a concentric, internal slave cylinder) When I clutch in, and try to shift, it feels like I'm pressing against a wall in the tranny. With a few attempts, or sometimes some pressure, it will drop in. I think it's better moving than stationary. Is this synchros? How can I check/diagnose this?

edit: to add 4x4, in case that matters

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Slavvy posted:

I agree the oil filter explanation is unsatisfactory. I can say the genuine oil filter is almost double the external diameter than most companies list for the aftermarket part. Maybe they're slightly different inside somehow and it impedes the flow? I dunno.

Engine rattle complaints were fairly common when I was working at Nissan. Almost every single one was caused by an aftermarket oil filter, and solved by changing. The techs suggested something about the anti-drain back valves. For < it's worth a shot.


For my question, crossposted from the Volvo thread due to low traffic:
I bought this 2005 S60 2.5T AWD. Seems to mostly be in good shape and drives nice, but a couple days after starting to drive it, I got a few codes and MIL popped on.
Codes are 640D Turbo Control/Turbo signal low (P2281 OBD), and 216D/21E0 Long term fuel stuck lean (P2188 OBD) Also translates as Adaptive Heated O2 faulty signal.

These are unfamiliar to me. Google yields very little, especially anything with successful fixes. Where do I even start?

update: Two days ago, I couldn't start it. It cranks and starts normally, then fires up and stalls. Nothing obviously out of place, loose, sucking air or anything else strange under the hood. I unplugged the MAF, and it started and idled perfectly. It also started after I plugged it back in, and I drove it home. Been riding my bike since then, so not sure what will happen next time.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

mr.belowaverage posted:

For my question, crossposted from the Volvo thread due to low traffic:
I bought this 2005 S60 2.5T AWD. Seems to mostly be in good shape and drives nice, but a couple days after starting to drive it, I got a few codes and MIL popped on.
Codes are 640D Turbo Control/Turbo signal low (P2281 OBD), and 216D/21E0 Long term fuel stuck lean (P2188 OBD) Also translates as Adaptive Heated O2 faulty signal.

These are unfamiliar to me. Google yields very little, especially anything with successful fixes. Where do I even start?

update: Two days ago, I couldn't start it. It cranks and starts normally, then fires up and stalls. Nothing obviously out of place, loose, sucking air or anything else strange under the hood. I unplugged the MAF, and it started and idled perfectly. It also started after I plugged it back in, and I drove it home. Been riding my bike since then, so not sure what will happen next time.

Quoting myself for followup. It rained literally all day today, but it just stopped long enough to pull the intake and MAF. MAF is pristine, almost new looking. Bosch unit, so exact OEM. Intake is clear, no cracks or anything.

Now I'm at a loss..

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

RE: 1998 Mazda B4000 pickup with a manual

My beater truck has started to give me some grief. It's still running well, but the clutch is acting up. The symptom list is getting mixed results from my own deductions, my coworkers, the local tranny shop and the internet. Here's what's happening:

-From cold, everything is dandy. Shifts well and clutch operation is normal
-After driving between 30 and 60 minutes, it might develop an issue where the clutch pedal has normal resistance feel, but you cannot shift easily. It becomes 'notchy', and if you're stopped at a light, you cannot shift into first with the clutch in. You must stop the engine, shift into gear and then restart.
-You can keep the clutch in when it's like this, and it won't grab more as you sit there and eventually stall. The clutch keeps working well enough to not lug or stall.
-Pumping the clutch has no effect on function, and feel remains constant
-Fluid level is normal, bleeding has had no effect
-Sometimes, but not often, that is a clashing/grinding/rattling sound possible from the transmission area. It only lasts a second
-On drives longer than an hour or so, a medium pitched howl will develop, but is only present when the clutch is depressed. Driving along in gear causes the howling to stop

So, this happened about two years ago, and I assumed slave cylinder failure and noise from the throw out/release bearing, or maybe pilot bearing.
I replaced the clutch disc and pressure plate, the pilot bearing, throw out bearing and slave cylinder, and the master cylinder and hydraulic line (because the line fitting at the slave wouldn't come off and I had to cut it). The flywheel looked good, and was given a light once-over by a machine shop.

Tell me, do I have a box full of bad parts giving me the same failure as before, or have I never solved the original problem? This truck only sees about 2000 miles/year. It won't be normal wear and tear. But I'm being told to replace the slave cylinder, or the bearings, or the pressure plate, or bleed the master, etc etc. I don't want to just throw parts at it without understanding the issue.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

Symptoms are classic worn master cylinder that leaks when hot, but you said you replaced that.

Yep. And no signs of fluid or fluid loss.

I have found I can reproduce the gnashing sound somewhat reliably by holding the clutch partially in. Does this mean anything relevant?

fickle poofterist posted:

Is my engine interference? Um I bought the car a week ago and it has had every service on time, but I will check that when I get home... I hope you're wrong



Edit : Surely I would have felt or heard something if the engine just ate it's valves.... And I didnt

You felt it quit abruptly.

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mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

X-posting from the Volvo thread for better exposure:

I've been chasing hard-starting and the "Reduced engine performance" error for many months now, but recently it became worse. The car stumbles and has stalled, and is currently actively misfiring.
All components read and test ok with scan tool, so a visual inspection was in order. In the depths of piping surrounding the RPM/crankshaft position sensor, I was able to discover that the mounting bracket was broken and mostly missing. So though the sensor seemed to test ok, it was not steady. Replacement of the bracket is in order.
Removing the front bolt was a royal pain, but the rear bolt seems impossible. There is no space between the bolt head and a casting bump on the bellhousing. Does removing the RPM sensor bracket require removing the transmission? Did I find the bolt the car was built around?




tl;dr: How do I remove bolt?

edit: To add that this is the same 2005 S60 2.5T I have previously posted about, though it's not strictly relevent to impossible bolt removals

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