|
2006 Infiniti M45 Was an idiot and went too fast over a speedbump. Came down hard on a large lane dividing bump (why am I in the center of the road? Again, dumbass in a rush). This shattered a corner of the aluminum oilpan and left 3 decent cracks. Hole is about half an inch and longest crack is maybe 4 inches. I've replaced an oilpan before and it looks really hard to do on this car, so I decide to attempt a repair with fiberglass. This goes as you would expect, it leaks, but I think I have the source of the leak identified. Should have doubled the amount of epoxy used. Drained the oil and planning to cover the area in RTV silicone today. I wager this a 50/50 shot at holding as the suspect area is along a weird edge the crack followed. - If I end up taking it into a shop, do I just pay out of pocket or go through insurance? - Any better sealant than RTV silicone I should reach for? Will post horrorpics this week assuming I don't get flamed too hard.
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2017 15:21
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 21:57 |
|
|
Looking to spruce up my car lately and everytime I go to sell I can't remember all the tiny improvements and maintenance that's been done. In addition I've been mixing up when I last did an oil change between the wife's car and my own. I couldn't find any comprehensive spreadsheet for car maintenance so I threw this together and am looking for input on what else could be added or simplified. 
|
|
#
¿
Aug 7, 2018 18:06
|
|
|
Pretty sure I tried to buff out these out before, do I need to sand down a bit with 1500 grit? I've also got these on all the windows of another vehicle. What do I do for glass?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 19, 2018 18:35
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:What is it? Water spots? If so #0000 steel wool for the windows (try on a spot that isn't in view) and a water spot remover (haven't tried any so can't recommend one unfortunately). If that doesn't work try buffing again with a different compound/polish. If that doesn't work, maybe sanding. Thanks I'll try that before going straight to sanding.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 19, 2018 19:52
|
|
|
Is there some site I can find a better selection of these things? I'm aiming for white with black trim. My amazon search could probably be improved because it thinks I want a back-up camera. Are those any good sub $40?
|
|
#
¿
Aug 28, 2018 03:49
|
|
|
Thought I was reading that backwards too. Don't pass a problem car off on your own family, yikes.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 5, 2018 17:14
|
|
|
Jaded Burnout posted:I think it's about time I started changing my own oil on my hatchback civic. I've got a flat paved driveway I can do it on. What's the basics I need to get going with it? Very important that you do not overtighten the drain bolt when putting it back on. Replace the oil filter when changing oil, always. Use rubber gloves and avoid draining hot oil if possible. No matter how hard you try you will drip a little bit so choose somewhere you don't care too much about or go with that cookie tray idea posted above. If you're planning on 3 or 4+ oil changes during your ownership time I'd invest in this drain attachment or similar.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2018 20:54
|
|
|
I was trying to figure out where if there is any fuel filter on a 2006 Nissan Xterra Three questions: 1. I think this in red is the "fuel strainer"? 2. What is this in orange? 3. 180k miles but I'm going to be on Costco gas soon. Is this pointless? 
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2018 04:28
|
|
|
Just earning that thread title. Thanks. Better give that thing some love bigtime. 
|
|
#
¿
Sep 14, 2018 11:35
|
|
|
STR posted:(the "-bs" cuts out all of the filler)  I want to know more about this. Tried it and it cut all results.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 19, 2018 13:56
|
|
|
anthonypants posted:I live in Portland, Oregon l, it's a 2001 Corolla with a clean title and under 150k miles, some scratches, and some electrical issues, but other than the engine failing it's not like, illegal to drive or unable to make it uphill or anything, but it does need new tags. Would it be worth putting on Craigslist or the Too bad this car isn't a little more worthwhile to save or I'd be very interested 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 10, 2018 13:48
|
|
|
anthonypants posted:Ehh, a junkyard's gonna give me $140 for it, and that kinda sucks, but since they're gonna pay for towing it out of here then I guess that's okay. Thanks for the suggestion, I hadn't considered a junkyard. Never taken out an engine but I want to try it. Post a photo, maybe we can make something happen. Junkyard should have offered at least $300 imo.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 10, 2018 21:53
|
|
|
Nebakenezzer posted:Dumb question: a friend of mine just bought a 2012 Dodge Journey. (A base model with some Canadian package; it has the 2.4 L I4 and I'm guessing the 4 speed auto.) I've been looking for the Haynes or Chilton manual for it, but the fact that the platform its based on is shared throughout the contemporary FC product range, having the "JC" name for mid-size and a PM/MK name for compact (like the Compass and the Liberty?) Uhhh... zapplez posted:Its pretty amazing the dodge journey went from one of the best selling cars in Canada to a phantom in just a few years. Tons of Canadians traded in their old dodge caravan and thought they were getting this cool little suv thing instead. Turns out almost all of them were off the road after 5 years because the Journey was one of the worst modern vehicles ever made. But people couldn't resist it for 22k CAD out the door when the RAV4 or similar was like 27k
|
|
#
¿
Nov 11, 2018 21:06
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:offers better rebates just about every major holiday. Buh? Next time I'll make sure I buy qualifying tires. https://www.discounttire.com/promotions 
|
|
#
¿
Nov 14, 2018 15:29
|
|
|
Is there anything I can plug into ODBII or custom wire that will audibly alert the driver to an overheating engine? I am never going to notice the dial going too high and neither is anyone else driving my vehicles. Something small and audible like this would be fantastic. 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2019 17:52
|
|
|
Thanks for the google-fu. I'll check at least one of those out and report back.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 20, 2019 20:34
|
|
|
What year and model is the truck? You could theoretically get a new fender from a yard for $75ish but you'll probably have to get very lucky or wait a while for one to show up in the right color. You'd be waiting many years if it's a newer model. Sounds like the damage is small enough for a mobile body work guy if you can find one.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2019 06:31
|
|
|
Sounds like a job for duct tape if the replacement is on the way.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2019 15:24
|
|
|
Depending on the car those sometimes unplug in 30 seconds. I would say "show me" and if they can't put a carboned up valve in your hands, they're liars. Clogged pcv valve at 40k miles seems improbable. The part is also like $10
|
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2019 17:00
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:What's the cheapest way of testing how coils (on plugs) are performing without throwing new parts at it? Not getting misfires or any codes, but it's known that the coils they put on the 1.4 MultiAir engine (that is also in the Dodge Dart) have a pretty crappy lifespan and wear out at 50-60k miles. Symtoms are hesitation, bucking and running crappy at ~2500rpm. If you can find someone with one of those coil slappers, that would be free. Otherwise they are $80-$150 :\ 
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2019 11:51
|
|
|
Autistic Edgy Guy posted:my rims on my 2011 Mazda3 are getting a little rusty looking. my dad told me to just put some black spray paint on them. is that legit? seems goofy. they are fine just showing some fading from the great lakes winters I think if you're going to do that you really must sand, primer, and color. Masking off the tires of course. I was just noticing the other day one of my neighbor's cars was painted black at some point but has flaked off about 75% of the job, looking absolutely terrible now.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2019 20:29
|
|
|
therobit posted:I'm looking at the tire rack website and the options are summer, winter, and all seasons. We have winter tires for November to April but we live in Portland so it rains all but like 3 months of the year, and my wife is in all sorts of stop and go on the freeways. Do I want all seasons or summer tires? Save on Used Tires is my new best tire friend in Portland (Hillsboro basically). If Dwaine answers, he's the owner. I dunno if they dabble in brand new or not. I'm fairly certain he can order brand new tires and he knows tires in and out. Chunjee fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Apr 6, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Apr 6, 2019 19:01
|
|
|
Hed posted:Looks like Honda TSB 16-002 covers the issue: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2016/SB-10088442-2280.pdf . Seem a bit involved for someone like me so I'll probably try to find a shop to do it. Can someone explain how rotating the torque converter helps? I'm not sure what this is supposed to accomplish. Not that I have this car or anything, just curious at this point.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 7, 2019 19:29
|
|
|
Colostomy Bag posted:So basically if I'm reading that TSB right, you rotate it and rebolt so it starts wearing on a different section? Rinse-repeat into the future? Hold on partner "NOTE: If there is a previous alignment mark and a reference to this bulletin, no further rotation can be done. A new torque converter will have to be installed."
|
|
#
¿
Apr 8, 2019 01:44
|
|
|
StormDrain posted:My house came with a laser that was connected to the garage door opener, so it shines down whenever the door opens. Pretty cool and my realtor hadn't seen one before. Searched "parking laser" on amazon to find these. Pretty cool.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 24, 2019 19:22
|
|
|
My neighbor had some starting issues with his Cadillac this weekend. It seems to be the amp draining the battery, but my first thought was the security system engaging in some fashion. My understanding is that GM starter interrupt issues will result in symptoms similar to what you are experiencing. Any security lights flashing?quote:I see this a lot working on cars GM vehicles equipped with Passlock. The Hall effect or Passlock sensor inside the lock cylinder housing goes bad intermittently and the Body Control module forgets the code or signal from the sensor and the 10 minute relearn procedure needs to be done in order to get the vehicle started. We do it all of the time at the shop for our customers. If the Passlock sensor is good along with the rest of the components, leaving the key in the ON or RUN position will usually to the trick. In addition, this procedure will need to be done anytime the Body Control Module loses its memory. In my neighbor's case we tried jumping multiple times, no dice. A ton of clicking all over the dash and door panels though. Would not release the key. Disconnected the battery for 5 mins then reconnected and jumped again, started!
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2019 13:27
|
|
|
meatpimp posted:I don't think it's the case, from what I can tell... the starter only has 2 wires going to it (and the solenoid, they're one unit), so if the solenoid is clicking, I think that should be the only signal it gets to engage the starter...? Also, the passkey light on the dash goes out with the rest of the lights. You can test your starter by jumping 12V directly to one of those lines. In addition if the line is corroded or not holding under load, I'd expect a click and no action.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2019 15:04
|
|
|
sausage paddy posted:I have an old Honda 4banger with about 200,000 miles on it, it runs fine but it is definitely tired. Are any of the various fuel additive engine cleaners or high mileage oils worth it? I'd like to get 2 more years of daily commuting out of it and don't want to do more harm than good. I haven't tried it yet but RESTORE is marketed as an engine restorer. Would give it a shot if you suspect compression as the weak point. O'Reilly/Autozone/Walmart has it on the shelf. Some results off youtube: 
Chunjee fucked around with this message at 14:38 on May 5, 2019 |
|
#
¿
May 5, 2019 14:36
|
|
|
Symptoms of a dirty throttle body: - Poor or High Idle. Symptoms of a bad throttle position sensor: - An unexplainable bucking and jerking in the vehicle. - Sudden idle surges. - Sudden engine stalling without any apparent reason. - Hesitation while accelerating. - Sudden surges in speed while driving on the highway. - Intermittently flashing of check engine light for no apparent reason. - Difficulties in changing gears. - Drastic drop in fuel economy. There's no way I'd start part-guessing at 1.5k; You need to know exactly what code it's throwing if the Check Engine Light is bothering you that much. Buy a $25 code reader (Harbor freight or LAUNCH CR3001 on amazon one is probably much better if you can wait on shipping) or yeah stop by a car-store and have them scan it for you. Leave the car running while you go inside if that's what it takes. Use your phone to take a picture of the code(s) so there's no chance you forget. Worst case scenario a professional diagnostician would be able to monitor the computer fuel trim and air intake to figure out what (if anything) is wrong with the air and gasoline ratio. imo the price is bull, that part sits right on top of the engine so they're easy to access and car-part.com lists used ones for $50-$300. If you are DIY inclined I'd have no problem telling you to take the part off and cleaning it:  But I would figure out what code it is throwing first.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2019 11:43
|
|
|
TheBoyBlunder posted:I have wheel locks on the wheels because reasons. Are wheel locks worth using at all? My guess is no, if someone's going to steal stuff from my car they're going to steal the whole drat thing then strip it, not just the wheels. Your car is too old to be of much interest to thieves I would think. Wheel locks are great and a little deterrence goes a long way.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2019 11:47
|
|
|
MrOnBicycle posted:
First thing that comes to my mind is one or more bad motor mounts, but that would be more noticeable at acceleration. Easier to check your air filter and clean the mass airflow sensor. Need more details to distinguish it from a suspension or brake problem. I would not rule out timing or fuel yet either. What year is that car?
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2019 14:19
|
|
|
Yeah that sounds like a tough one. If there is a way to verify the MultiAir computer inputs/outputs are valid at different speeds that would be my starting point, but I imagine that takes some special scanner or serious know-how.
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2019 15:53
|
|
|
Tres Burritos posted:Is buying a car with a salvage title from somewhere like copart a terrible terrible idea? I'm essentially looking for a 'beater' car to haul stuff (I have become a designated stuff hauler and I don't want to do it anymore in my daily, so idgaf about body damage. I did basically this. $698 ($450 bid + fees) from the auction for a v8 and it works pretty good for the price. My thought process was that I can haul at capacity and I'm only out $1000ish if I blow up the transmission. Towed at least 2 cars and a couple of couches already. Would try to get a pickup if I did it again though.
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2019 21:33
|
|
|
If there's plenty if material left I've gotta think they're low quality pads or somethings up with the rotor. Both or those are relatively easy to do yourself. Welcome to car ownership.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2019 03:04
|
|
|
Based on the sound of a sliding stone, check closely for a stuck rock.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2019 03:23
|
|
|
El Kabong posted:I'm going to try everything else first on this bent & stuck outer tie rod end, but if I have to cut it off what's the best way to do it? It's stuck on the inner tie rod end not at the joint. Angle grinder with a metal cutting disc. I've done it twice. Though my bend was in the inner, not the outer. Without a picture of your situation: Try to cut enough of the bend off to get an inner tie rod removal tool over the whole thing, you can remove it all and bring it to a vice or something to get them separated. I imagine you've already thought of vice grips with a cheater bar but didn't have enough space or something.
|
|
#
¿
May 22, 2019 17:23
|
|
|
I'd hit those with Mothers VLR (Vinyl Leather Rubber) and a microfiber towel and see how far that gets you. The first one could probably use the lightest of sandings, just to knock down any nubs. Maybe 600-800 grit. If the chair doesn't come back immediately, massage some lacquer thinner in there and see where that takes you. edit: but use a test spot first. Chunjee fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Jun 15, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2019 13:30
|
|
|
2006 xB I noticed there is no belt on the a/c compressor. Did PO buy the wrong belt or do people unbelt them when they don't want to pay for fixing their a/c? Guess I should have someone check for vacuum before spinning a system I know zero history of. Will move to A/C thread if I don't get to it before summer.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2019 14:39
|
|
|
Looks I've got another part for my shopping list after I confirm. Thanks
|
|
#
¿
Nov 27, 2019 14:59
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 19, 2024 21:57 |
|
|
2007 Detroit 60 ooooh ok my Dad's semi broke down. Loud bang, oil which was just changed is now a thick chocolatey texture. He and the shop say it's a blown head gasket. That's turbofucked right? Not even the best headgasket sealer in the world is going to have much chance of stopping coolant from entering the oil right? Junkyard offering him $2000
|
|
#
¿
Nov 28, 2019 03:52
|
|