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Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
I want to get a vehicle as a donor for a project - but I want one that's already running. A lot of the stuff in my price range is pretty high miles, for example a '97 ford 7.5 liter v-8 with 200k on it. If I were to buy a truck like that and drive it around for a while to determine how the motor is, and then do a simple gasket job would that be a decent way to get a few reliable miles out of it? I'm thinking stuff like oil pan gasket, rear main seal, head gasket, intake/exhaust, etc. Probably the timing chain and water pump while it's out as well?

e: this one for example
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/4945296995.html

Or do I need to replace rings and other stupid bullshit?

Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Mar 25, 2015

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Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

LingcodKilla posted:

I have a 2013 honda civic coupe.
I need to travel home with it from Florida to California. I have a fair amount of stuff so I was thinking about about getting a roof rack or trailer hitch with platform. Are either of these options terrible or is one better than the other? I was thinking that the roofrack might kill my mileage but the hitch and platform may cause problems because of ground clearance.

I'd go with the roof rack personally - Every hitch platform that I've ever used (which was only 2, and both cheapos) was saggy and not very confidence inspiring. Stuff on a roof rack definitely won't help your aero but that's what I'd do.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
On Friday I got a p0135 code on my Jeep TJ - Oxygen O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1). I ordered the part (NTK) and it should be here today, but yesterday the code cleared itself. With emissions codes I think there's a drive cycle that is completed before setting or clearing a code, is that right? If I drove a certain amount of miles and the computer did a re-scan and the problem no longer exists would that mean the code clears and all is well?

I'll put in the new sensor anyway probably...

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Kvlt! posted:

Sorry if this is the wrong thread, it seemed to be the most accurate one I can find.
I want to start to be able to work on cars - the ultimate goal being to buy an old pickup truck and fix it up.

I have no experience with anything car related- besides driving. Where the hell do I even start?

I started by buying a broken honda scooter and taking the motor apart on my kitchen table. I had it easy, because the guy I bought it from had taken it to a shop and gotten an estimate. Their estimate said it was probably the piston rings, so I replaced them and it was good to go! A 40lb. motor makes it really easy to work on, and the scooter being a second vehicle made it easy to take my time.

Do you own a car? What kind of car? Anything wrong with it? If you have a car already you could start with simple stuff like oil changes and regular tune up stuff - change the spark plugs, air filter, clean the throttle body, that kind of stuff.

OR, just find a truck you like and buy that fuckin' truck. If you buy a vehicle that you WANT to work on and can't WAIT to drive, you're a lot more likely to work on it.

Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Apr 7, 2015

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Suave Fedora posted:

Is there still such a thing as a break-in period for new engines? I'm at 1k on the 2015 Dodge Durango and would like to know if I could open her up already and ride more masculinely.

Read your manual and then go beat the gently caress out of it.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
But if the job goes away in two weeks you're gonna be pretty bummed that you signed a two year lease.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
There are sets of fenders on craigslist pretty regularly - people are always taking them off to put on flat fenders. They aren't hard to remove and replace if you can find a nice paint matched piece. The turn signals couldn't be any simpler to remove and reinstall. Mine has a smaller dent in the same place, probably from a smaller tree :)

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
What the heck is this vise grip doing to this 1973 f-350? I'm looking at it on Friday so I'd like to have an idea if that's a problem or not. Choke-related?

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
I'm having a hard time figuring out if this 1990 Suburban 2500 has a solid front axle or not. I know the 1990 4x4's have a 10-bolt front differential, and that it was phased out in 1992, but I'm not finding much on the RWD models. Anybody have an idea?

Dude is going to send me a photo today but ain't nobody got time for that.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

BrokenKnucklez posted:

They are independent front ends. Very similar to (if not identical) to the 1987 3/4 pickups.

Nice call! Too bad it's not solid, but if the rest checks out I think I'm going for it.







Looks to be pretty clean underneath and in the bay at least!

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

22 Eargesplitten posted:

So, this is probably a premature question. I'm not actually going to be buying anything for a year and a half. But I also want to sperg out, learn about the cars, learn about the market, that sort of stuff.

Taking the advice from earlier in the thread, once I'm no longer saving every spare dollar for a wedding, I want to pick up a beater to learn to wrench on. The problem is my desires are kind of restrictive, and I'm not sure if they're realistic. I'm wanting either a fun car (quick and decent handling relative to an impreza hatchback), or an AWD wagon. The problem is, I want something messed up enough that I can get into its guts, but I want something that I don't have to worry about breaking down on me all the time. I want something older for simplicity and price, but I want at least dual front airbags and a decent safety rating. I want something cheap to fix, and I want something that hasn't had it's price jacked up by all of the racing/autocross people latching onto them, so no E30, 240SX, Fox body, Hondas, no MR2s, and probably no Miatas. I had been thinking of a Volvo 940 for safety/wagon/turbo, but unless those can be turned into fun cars, they are RWD and wouldn't be a good winter beater for my by-then wife. I also had been thinking W124 300TE/300DE, but then I found out the 4matic transmission is both overly complex and failure-prone. I could list a bunch of other cars I knocked out of competition, but nobody wants to read through them all.

Am I asking too much from a car? So far all I've come up with is an old Subaru. Either an EJ22 wagon or an EJ25 and I cut my teeth on engine work with the head gaskets :unsmigghh:. We do live somewhere that the only rust is imported, so that helps.

Basically, I'm trying to do the same thing as Sperglord Firecock was, but without being a loving idiot about it. I'm trying to learn to work on cars with the eventual goal of having a fun fast car, even if it's not this one. I'm not going to buy a car obviously full of PO fuckery, not going to dream of Initial D racing stardom while being unable to drive stick, and I'm not going to wear ugly blue plaid pants as some sort of ironic anti-fashion statement. I promise. We also have two reliable cars, so if this one has to sit for a while before being safe to drive, that's fine. It will be a nice change from having to do stuff on my car quickly over a weekend so I can drive to work on Monday.

You need an XJ Cherokee. They might not be very fast but they do everything else you want.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

22 Eargesplitten posted:

I'll look at XJs. I know my friend was complaining before he got his 4-runner about how stupidly priced jeeps were around here, but maybe he was thinking about a particular model, IIRC Cherokees aren't the ones that are most popular for offroading, right? Just the normal about town SUV?

Well, if you want one for a project you should be able to find one relatively cheap that needs a few things fixed. Good examples have been rising in price lately I think. The Jeep wrangler is the iconic short-wheel-base off-road jeep; the XJ is THE budget off-roader. It can do a few things better than a wrangler when it's built up some, like climbing steep stuff, but they're also pretty easy to work on and parts are everywhere. There were no fewer than 6 XJs in the junk yard that I went to last weekend, and there were zero wranglers.

Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 18:10 on May 1, 2015

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
OR if you just want it to look pretty decent you can take it to Maaco or Earl Scheib and have it painted for under a grand. $3-4k is if you want it to look REALLY REALLY Nice.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

InitialDave posted:

Ok, this is the random one: What is the width across the widest point of the pan on a TH400 transmission, with/without the vacuum unit attached? And is it "centred" compared to the driveline, or offset to one side?

Whenever anyone in the US mentions California, it always strikes me as some kind of near-parody, Demolition Man anti-utopia. Anything not mandatory is banned. Anything not banned is mandatory. And if the federal government says we're not allowed to impose a regulation that is at odds with federal law, we'll spit out our dummy and find a way to make exactly the same imposition, only in the most awkward and roundabout way possible.

The funny thing is, I don't even doubt that it's that far from the truth.

As a 33 year old that has lived in California (San Diego) for his entire life I can say that it's pretty great here. I never feel oppressed by the man, except for that one time I had to buy new cats for my Jeep. The only thing I want to do but can't is buy fireworks, I have to cross the Nevada border for fireworks.

I am also a bit simple in the head and easy to please.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
Or $1800 on a 2002 Wrangler :gerty:

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Parts Kit posted:

No it's just kind of an :effort: thing to go through for old crappy tires that will be replaced soonish on a beat rear end truck. If it's not going to cause someone at a tire shop problems or create some safety issue I'm oblivious of I don't think it's worth the effort to do the index card thing.

If I already had new tires mounted it wouldn't be a question, I'd just suck it up. But I don't so I just want to make sure of the above.

I'm pretty lazy too but if you're going to paint your wheels you might as well take the 10 minutes to NOT paint your tires. Also - if you don't want to take the time to protect the tire I assume you're also not taking the time to clean and sand the wheel so it's going to look lovely no matter how you do it.

My question:

Does anyone know anything about the 70's GMC High Emission motors? A suburban I looked at has the high emission 350, and I'm wondering how much fuckery it would take to supe it up a little. Is a 350 a 350 for the most part? Would switching to headers and a new intake, maybe carb, be all it would need?

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
Seems like they've already made a poo poo-load of considerations?

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
Is it not possible to find a local place to do the shaving of a new tire? Is your spare the same size? I can't imagine having to buy 4 new tires to get 1 new tire, but I guess that's the dilemma of the AWD driver :(

e: Can you buy a decent used set for the trip and order the new tire to put on when you get back?

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Greggorian posted:

Question: I have an 06 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The left headlight keeps having problems because there is a rubber boot that goes between it and the connector. I think the boot needs replacing as the female connector on the headlight side is jacked and thus it keeps slipping off. However, I don't know what it's called, so I'm having a hard time locating anything online. Any ideas on the name of this?

Is it ziptieable? It sounds ziptieable!

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
The Tribute was the same as the Ford Escape, right? There are a ton of those on the road still, not that that means much I guess.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Uthor posted:

Funeral procession in the right lane of a two lane road. Open left lane. Is it fine to just drive past doing the speed limit?

(I'm I okay with being mad at all the people that just kept pace with the procession going about 10 mph under instead of driving like normal?)

Hey, it's not YOUR dad that died :smug: Smoke tires.

jk don't do that.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

FlyingCowOfDoom posted:

I have an 02 Toyota Camry that I got after school that is still mechanically sound but the clear coat is peeling bad now on the trunk/hood/roof. I need to get it painted but the first shop I went to quoted me 3k for just those parts, and like 5k for a whole paint job. What in the actual gently caress??? I feel like Im better off just getting into an accident with like a concrete divider and having insurance pay for it if its that much. I'm gonna look around more this weekend but is that a typical price range I should be prepared for? Im just like jesus, thats a partial/full down payment on a new/used car.

It's a loving camry. $3k at a good paint shop will get you a pretty decent paint job for your nice car. For under $1000 at Maaco or a similar place you'll get a paint job that's good enough for a 2002 camry.

Astonishing Wang fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Jun 18, 2015

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

tuyop posted:

How does someone become a better driver?

I'm not really sure how I got here, but I've never hit anyone and I have a pretty good driving record. However, my wife basically drives our car into something once a month and it's becoming very expensive and I worry a lot that she's going to die or hurt someone with the car. She wants to improve and feels bad about her driving, but what do we even do? Do race schools help with regular road driving? At this point the $600+ price tag would almost be a worthwhile investment if it works.

First thing to do: make sure she's not using her phone while driving. That's GOT to be the biggest problem on the road today. Even the Stig can't hit an apex if he's facebooking.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Parts Kit posted:

2002 Ford Escape, v6 engine: engine light came on, code indicates one of the upstream 02 sensors is bad. Local chains want $45 per sensor for what is $25 per on Rockauto or Amazon. Would it be risky to the engine to operate it as is while the parts come in or would lovely gas mileage be the only concern? We're talking a week, tops.

You'll be fine, just make sure you get a sensor that is at least as good as the OEM. I used a bosch sensor in my jeep and it didn't fix it - put in the NTK sensor and all was well.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Ehud posted:

What are these two holes to the left of the wheel on this Fiat Abarth?



Looks like mounting holes for a fender flare or something like that. I think the abarth has more 'body kit' to it than the regular.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
If you're doing one you might as well do them all IMO. Is there any issue with replacing lifters and NOT replacing the pushrods?

I changed all the lifters and pushrods in my jeep's 4.0 and it didn't quiet down the the cracked connecting rod one bit. Hopefully your lifters are the problem :shobon:

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

scuz posted:

2000 Chevy S10
V6 4.3L extended cab
RWD

The reason I mentioned extended cab is because this thing has a two-piece driveshaft and the rear-most universal joint is shot. I know how to replace it once I have the drive shaft off, but I can't figure it for the life of me. I took the 4 bolts out from the metal straps that appear to hold the u-joint in, but I can't get the drive shaft to shift outta there. I feel like a big dumbo. I'll update this with a picture later if need be.

Once the straps are off you may need to use a pry bar or something to compress the shaft and allow it to come loose. Pry it inwards away from the yoke.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

spog posted:

I'm planning on taking the wheel off my Saab to give the hubs a de-rusting.

Obviously, using the saab scissor jack is a shortcut to a sore wrist and potentially a car on the foot, so I am looking for a trolley jack.

Would you feel comfortable with just the jack and the wheel on its side under the sill, or should I get axle stands as well?

Always use stands. If you don't have a stand, use one anyway.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Mercury Ballistic posted:

My brother is the borrower, he is too cheap to put gas in. Seriously though, it was not gas related as far as I can recall.

You tell that mother fucker that when he brings the truck back it better have more gas in than when he borrowed it.

Who the gently caress....

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Golbez posted:

After five years of being a fatass driving my car down the tight spiral of a downtown parking deck, the seat in my '02 Ford Focus has broken quite severely, with metal now poking through at one point. How much does it generally cost to replace a car seat? The car is otherwise pretty poo poo, but I was willing to live with it, but with this happening I really don't like the idea of a spear of metal ready to impale me at the slightest impact. (see Final Destination 2)

You should be able to pick up a used seat for under $100, and most seats install fairly easily with just hand tools and maybe a special bit or two.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
The minivan is pretty much the perfect vehicle. I don't know why people are so opposed.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

AccidentalFloss posted:

I have a 2002 Ford Escort ZX2 and the speedometer and odometer stopped working two months ago. I had it looked at by a shop to diagnose and they recommended salvaging. The instrument cluster is getting power and the speed sensor is fine. Tachometer, fuel gauge, temp gauge are working fine. Is it worth it to salvage and replace the cluster and sell it privately? It's in good condition otherwise. I don't know if the history will show TMU. The carfax says nothing about it. It only had 53900 miles when the odometer stopped. CarMax offered me $500 for it. KBB for fair cond. is $1100-1200.

First of all you probably shouldn't go to that shop again. To fix the speedometer/odometer you'll probably need a speed sensor, it shouldn't be a hard fix. It's hard to believe that a shop would tell you to scrap a car for something like that, what else is wrong with it?

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

The Wonder Weapon posted:

Shopping on tirerack, it looks like I'd be lucky to get just the wheels for much under $1,000. Craigslist has two or three people selling acceptable wheel sets for around $600 that come with tires, though not necessarily winter tires.

How much does it cost to have tires swapped onto your wheels? I'd be doing it twice a year for at least four years. If it's $75 or more to have tires changed, that's $150 a year, and I'd be better off buying a second set of wheels at that point.

This is why I'm interested in the bolt adapter. I have 17 or 18" wheels with good winter tires that will be left over after I sell the Audi. If I could pick up adapters for $200 or even $300 bucks and use those, it would be cheaper and considerably easier than the other two options.

It looks like there are plenty of options available for 5x100 to 5x130 adapters. Keep in mind that the thickness of the adapter changes how far your wheels stick out. There are some spacers/adapters that are like 2" thick, made for people that are looking for a wider stance or more clearance, and that's not what you want at all.
http://raceland.com/volkswagen-5x100-to-porsche-5x130-wheel-adapters.html

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

tactlessbastard posted:

Do you want your unicorn to have one horn or two?

There's an entire category of car that is exactly what the poster is looking for - you're talking like cheap reliable cars with good mpg don't exist.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

tater_salad posted:

Why do people live in california?

Body on frame, but the frame is rusted out? No problem, keep driving as long as you pass smog. Oh wait, we don't get rust here :smug:

It definitely sucks when you don't pass smog though.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004

Shooting Blanks posted:

Stupid tire question:

Tore a sidewall on my car the other night (misjudged a curb on an unlit street). I know I should replace both, but is there any reason to go with Discount Tire rather than Tire Rack and have them shipped to a local installer? And do the installer recommendations from Tire Rack make a difference? Price difference will be about $50. Or is there a third option that's even better?

Tires in question are these:

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Sumitomo&tireModel=HTR+A%2FS+P02+%28W-Speed+Rated%29&partnum=145WR8HTRASP02XL&i1_Qty=2
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/findTireDetail.do?r=TSWINT%7Cpc%7C77019&frmcart=true&pc=43572&ar=45&rd=18&cs=215

Yes, it's the cheapest tire from each - I work from home and am only in my car about 4 days a week, freeways less than once a week any more.

I've never used anything but discount tire - I like that they are competitive on price and offer free balance/rotation with the tires. I work right near one of their locations so it makes it super easy to get service done at the right intervals.

So if you're near a discount tire or similar shop it might be worth looking into. I'm not sure if other shops/tire rack have any kind of service included in the price like that.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
I have some lights that I want to test out before wiring them to the Jeep. Is there anything I can get that I can plug in at home and use to test out 12v stuff?

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
Or you can sell it for $15k and buy something that needs no work! Automotive Sanity.

Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
I've done the control arms with ball joint pre-installed and it was an easy job on that period ranger.

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Astonishing Wang
Nov 3, 2004
Definitely report it to your insurance, they can figure out the rest. Did you get his info?

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