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I have a question, and I'm at my wits end here. 2002 Lexus IS300. I just bought a dash cam and a hard wire kit and an "add a circut' fuse thingy from auto zone, like this. I crimp connected the red wire to the add-a-fuse, I connected the other wire to a bolt on the car, and I took out a 10A fuse and put it in the space for it in the add-a-fuse connector, put the connector in the spot - nothing. I try this on all the 10A and 7.5A selections, nothing. I take my multimeter to the fuse areas to circuits I know work, like 'TV' or "AC', etc, and get nothing on the multimeter. I know these circuits work. So I don't know what I'm doing wrong with the wiring here. Any ideas?
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Jun 25, 2016 03:03
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Godholio posted:Are you sure the bolt you used is actually grounded? Pretty sure. I know what you mean, some bolts don't actually connect to the chassis. But I did, and even tried different spots of the car in case it wasn't.
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Jun 25, 2016 03:39
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I tried them all with the engine running.
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Jun 25, 2016 04:34
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Enourmo posted:Get a real long section of wire, use it to hook your multimeter to the battery negative, and test for continuity to your bolt. If that's good, check for voltage to the chassis side of the fuse holder. Everything in my car works except the rear defroster for some reason. The fuse for that is still intact. (Suck a lot actually. If anyone knows what that's about I'd appreciate suggestions lol) I'm not piggybacking off that circuit though. I tried like a dozen 7.5 and 10 amp circuits. I'd know if it was working if the dashcam turned on because I had it plugged in the whole time. I just tried a circuit, turned the car on, and repeated until I ran out of places to try lol. I have no idea what the problem is...
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Jun 26, 2016 00:21
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I have a 2002 Lexus IS300 sedan with about 135k miles on it. I've had it maintained well, and it usually runs great, smoothly, no problems. But I just got back from a 2 week vacation and I'm encountering a problem after it's sat for 2 weeks. It started up no problem. It drove fine for 10 minutes or so, but when I would stop at a light or idle the whole car shakes and the engine sounds like it's misfiring or not receiving enough fuel or something like that. It sounds like it's a hotrod oddly enough. The check engine light eventually came on, along with the TRAC OFF light for some reason. When it starts doing this I seem to lose about 50% breaking power as well. It was mid 60s when we left and it's mid 30s now. I think it's because it was sitting for two weeks, but what exactly to do now I leave up to you guys suggestions. Thanks!
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Nov 21, 2016 14:53
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2002 Lexus IS300, sedan ~135k miles Engine light came on, had my mechanic check the code. Bank 1 Sensor 2 - O2 sensor. This one: http://a.co/5P1yoUJ I go to replace it today and the connectors are different! The sensor looks the exact same in every way except for the connector. I searched all over for Bank 1 Sensor 2 and that's the sensor it said to get. The threads fit, the sensor fits, it's just the connector that's different. So did I get the wrong sensor or do I need to do some soldering and splice the old connector onto the new sensor? Here's a pic, new connector left, old connector right. You can see that even the plastic connector housings are shaped different. 
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Jan 4, 2017 23:48
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totalnewbie, Cop Porn Popper, Yu-Gi-Ho! - you guys are awesome. Thank you very much!
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Jan 5, 2017 14:53
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So I'm an idiot and was rushing to finish up the oil change on my 2014 Mazda3 2.0L and I put in all 5 qts forgetting that i'm only supposed to put in 4.4 qts. Is this going to be a problem, should I drain some? Also I read differing views whether or not you should pre-fill your oil filter before installing a new one. Thoughts?
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Apr 6, 2017 12:49
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I haven't been able to find a calculator/tool/guide that really answer this question: Will these wheels fit my 2002 Lexus IS300 with stock suspension (no lowering or fender mods)? The bolt pattern is compatible, 114.3 - but I'm worried they might be too wide. The ad says 9 but it's really 8.5 when I find the wheel online. Offset is +20mm. Tires on them are 225/40 R18. Would they fit? Would I have any issues/concerns with rubbing on the fender or anything? Is there a calculator you guys know about for this stuff?
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May 31, 2017 15:27
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2002 Lexus IS300 Base I need new front calipers, rotors, and pads - but autopartswarehouse.com, amazon, ebay, and all the links in the References thread are coming up short. I don't want to do the whole core charge thing, and I'd like to get painted, preferably red.
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Jun 9, 2017 21:53
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Thanks for the reply monsterzero! Yeah I had rockauto open, too. But I've never used them and I'm weary of buying the product without seeing a picture but I guess I don't have to. Should I send the core back? How do these compare to these?
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Jun 9, 2017 22:16
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2002 Lexus IS300, 170k miles Every time I brake the ABS light kicks on and I can hear/feel the pulsation in the brake pedal. It actually happens when I'm a moment away from coming to a complete stop. It doesn't happen throughout the entirety of braking. This started happening about 6 to 8 months ago but only when I had the wheel turned to the left even a degree off center. Now it happens all the time, but sometimes it won't happen if my wheel is turned to the right a good amount. This was happening before and after a complete brake job I just had a month or so ago (brakes, calipers, and rotors all replaced). I did some research and also spoke to my mechanic and it seems to be the ABS Wheel Speed sensors. My mechanic wants me to buy the front L & R ABS Wheel Speed sensors. He seems to think the wire has gotten worn out, like twisting a metal wire repeatedly for years will eventually break it. Before I buy these parts, do you guys think I should consider any other possibility/option? Or is this most likely the culprit?
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Jul 31, 2017 16:11
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Deteriorata posted:"Wheel speed sensors" was what immediately jumped into my mind as I read your description of the symptoms. I guess there could be other culprits, but those seem pretty likely. Awesome, thank you. Feels good to get a little more confirmation before buying parts. Also, dumb question, but does the whole thing about it usually happening when the wheel is turned to the left indicate which sensor might be bad, or no? If the problem is resolved after installing the first sensor I might just return the other one, or should I just be a man and do both as preventative maintenance?
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Jul 31, 2017 18:00
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Deteriorata posted:"Wheel speed sensors" was what immediately jumped into my mind as I read your description of the symptoms. I guess there could be other culprits, but those seem pretty likely. $300 in parts + labor - it wasn't the wheel speed sensors  Back at square one.
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Aug 4, 2017 21:33
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Been there. Found out the hard way that my buddy's E46 ABS problems were not his wheel speed sensors after replacing all 4. Would you say that's probably the next thing in line to be the culprit?
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Aug 4, 2017 22:36
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On the topic of buying a car on CL, I found this guy the other day. 143k miles. Rebuilt title. I am completely in agreement and on-board with the mindset to stay away, far far away from rebuilt titles. But I'm wondering if there's ever any reason to maybe think about possibly deviating from that rule, if certain conditions are met? If the answer is still, no, never - no problem. But I talked to him a bit and he said he works for the garage that fixed it. He said he has the original appraisal and the receipts of all new parts. The accident hit the right front side of the bumper cover and took out the radiator support. "It missed the frame wheel and also missed the wheel ans suspension put in a new radiator support, new fender, new hood, new headlights, new bumper cover , new grille, new spash shield. The car drives down the road straight. Put in new radiator and condensor and charged ac. Car passed state police inspection" If I took this to my local Lexus dealer and paid a tech to look it over and they say everything checks out, and he took an offer of $6,000 - would this be a reasonable/good purchase? Or should I just stop even thinking about it? My 02 IS300 is at the dealer right now since replacing the front ABS wheel speed sensor didn't fix the ABS kicking in before coming to a complete stop issue. I'm worried it's going to be a huge amount to have fixed, and I'm looking around. So barring the above, any suggestions for me? I love the small, tight, cozy yet sporty feel of the IS300. I've had it for almost 9 years now, I still love it. It's got some rust in the rear left rocker panel area which I'll have to deal with. I don't know what to do.  I like WRXs but I don't know if I want to a WRX driver? Is that a dumb and wrong opinion? In the upstate NY area they are basically known for being racer boy kids. I've been looking at Volvo's and those seem really nice and pack a lot of power. I'm not super in love with the new Lexus offering unless I go out of my price range - way out. Any cars you guys would suggest to shop around for to regretfully possibly replace my IS300?
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Aug 10, 2017 20:40
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Huh, yeah - there seems to be quite a difference between Edmunds and how much cars go for in this area. Hard to find that car for anywhere near that price. Oh well, whatever. Thanks.
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Aug 10, 2017 21:53
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Lexus just told me I need new rear axles and deflector rings - $1026. Edmunds says my car is worth $1,836. I'm screwed. 
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Aug 10, 2017 22:17
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2002 Lexus IS300 170k The only rust on the car. Rear drivers side. Suggestions? Cut out about a foot and weld in a new piece of steel? Other better/smarter options?
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Aug 29, 2017 19:47
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So I'm at a bit of a crossroads and I'm not sure what to do. My 2002 Lexus IS300 (170k miles, auto) has treated me more or less pretty well over the almost 9 years I've had it. I've been sold on Toyota reliability. Thing though is it's got some pretty bad rust on both side's rocker panels, and some starting on the front right fender. I figure if/while I have it at the body shop they could fix some damage to the front bumper, too. All of this was quoted about $1,500. My gut tells me that I'm not going to make that back from the sale of the car after getting the work done. KBB private party Fair condition = $3,345. Good = $3,984. Very Good = $4,595. Excellent = $4,977. Besides the rust/body and the stock navigation no longer working, everything else in the car is great. Runs great, a pleasure to drive. I just highly doubt getting this body work done is going to be worth the $1,500. So if that's true, then that means I should either keep it till it dies or sell it as it is, and the sooner the better, right? I'm not super thrilled about the idea of keeping it till it dies because I want it to be worth something, even if just a couple thousand, when I'm ready to afford the car I want. I want to stick with Lexus but the best I can afford is 06-13 models, and I'm not a huge fan of the body style. I would love to find a 2014 IS250 for around $15 or $16k right now but that seems pretty unlikely. So what do you guys think? Should I actually get the body work done? Should I skip the body work and just keep driving it as it is until I can afford a nice 2014 IS250 and hope it doesn't 'die' (or lose too much more of its value) by then? (Maybe it's already lost most/all of the value it's going to lose?) Should I do something else? I'm all ears, and appreciate any advice!
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Oct 30, 2017 20:50
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Deteriorata posted:Fix it, drive it until it dies, and start putting money in a savings account for a new one in the meantime. This is a really smart way of looking at it. Thank you for the kind advice!
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Oct 30, 2017 21:08
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Is it ok to use slightly different tread patterns between the front and rear axles on an AWD car (2014 Lexus IS350 F-Sport)? There's a sale on tires and I'm looking at these. Front are 225/40/18 and rear are 255/35/18. My gut says no, it's not ok. So if it's not and there are any recommendations on getting the best deal for a set of all the same tread, I'm all ears! rear: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-255-...toAAOSwmFJbxL1z front: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-225-40-18-HANKOOK-405-VENTUS-PLUS-40R-R18-TIRES/311053663483 
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Oct 23, 2018 14:40
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Tire shaving chat: How does this work exactly? '14 IS350 F-Sport, staggered and directional wheels/tires. Tires are all fine but I know the day is going to come when I get a flat and a new tire is going to be too new compared to the tread left on the others and they're going to say I need all new tires to match. Is this a situation where I ask them to shave the new tire? What place should I go to to have that done if need be?
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Jun 25, 2019 19:59
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Geoj posted:Shaving is usually only really necessary on AWD platforms where one wheel spinning faster than the others for an extended period can damage the drivetrain. On 2WD platforms (unless I'm reading search results wrong looks like your's is RWD?) it really isn't that big of a deal. Oh I'm dumb and forgot to say it's in fact AWD. Sorry. So yeah - it's necessary right? Do most all places do shaving or do I need to go somewhere special, recommendations? I live in upstate NY.
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Jun 27, 2019 18:02
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Great, thank you! And am I right in thinking that's the way to go to avoid paying for 4 new tires just because one needs replacing? Or am I missing something? Do people with AWD, staggered, direction tires do this?
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Jun 27, 2019 20:53
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I was just reading some of the general lack of love for AWD in most cases here in AI, and I totally understand. I live in upstate NY and while yes we get snow a good amount of the time, it's usually nothing a good set of snow tires can't handle regardless of transmission type and if it's much worse than that, reconsider getting on the road. You generally get worse gas mileage, and they're more to maintain, etc. I'm bummed because I probably should have thought about this more when I got a AWD '14 Lexus IS350 F-Sport last summer. I got a good deal, and I wanted to upgrade from my '02 IS300 that needed repair after repair. When I was shopping I knew I liked the healthy mix of sportiness and reliability it offered. The IS350 seemed to have lots of good reviews and very few problems talked about online. I wasn't looking for AWD when I bought it, (again no real reason/need) but I wasn't actively avoiding it either. I'm loving the car. I'm just wondering how serious of a mistake I may have made? I plan on keeping the car a long time, but don't want to piss away money needlessly. Right now I'm telling myself, "Yeah, you were stupid to buy AWD and every penny you spend on transmission repair/maintenance is your penalty for making an ill-informed decision." If I was helplessly dependent on the dealership or a mechanic I'd feel even worse. If I can be forgiven for this, I'm willing to live with my mistake and still be very happy with the car. I live well within my means and if I had to take it to the dealership for every single repair/maintenance I'd be fine. I like to save money though. I do my own oil changes, brakes, and other small to moderate jobs on my wife's car and mine. So I am willing and capable to change transmission fluids/oil unless you guys know of a particular reason I can't in my own garage that I've missed in my research. (Like special tools or equipment?) It seems the response to "lifetime fluids" is a scheme to allow dealerships to replace transmissions, so I'm not buying that and it looks like I should change them on my own. I'm at about 60k now and some of the more cautious posts I'm reading say to replace the differential fluid at around 50k. I'm also worried about keeping the tire wear consistent so I don't create more strain or problems. Is there a way to check that? And anything else anyone would recommend to care for the AWD? Maybe more maintenance but isn't she pretty? 
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Jul 23, 2019 18:05
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Thank you guys. So you wouldn't really worry about the fluid? Maybe at 100k? Or if it ever seems sluggish or jerky down the road? Glad you brought up tires: I want to rotate them but the tires on there right now are directional and the wheels are staggered. (225/40R18 front, 255/35R18 rear) So I can't rotate them right? Would you recommend getting non-directional tires in the future so I can at least rotate side-to-side? I'm thinking whenever I get new tires I'll go with non-directional and non-low-profile for a better ride and less noise. Is there anything wrong with doing that, other than slightly worse handling and not looking quite as good? I'm also on the fence of whether or not I want to bother getting another set of wheels, snow tires, and swapping them out each winter. I'm not against it, but if you guys think I could just get away with a good set of all-seasons and don't let the tread get too low I should be fine? I understand the good logic of combining AWD with snow tires, but is it dumb to just be ok with all-seasons?
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Jul 23, 2019 19:15
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Ok, considering that then, I'll look into a spare set of wheels to put snows on. I should have been more specific, I'm in the Albany, NY area so the amount of snow can vary every year. But, keeping all seasons on all the time doesn't seem like that great of an idea even though it's simpler, based on what you guys are saying. And, sorry, I don't mean to disagree or beat a dead horse, but I'm just curious if I can really get away with not changing the transmission and differential fluid. This is the nicest car I've ever owned and I want to baby it and keep it a long time. The service manual for 60,000 miles states "Replace Differential Oil (IS F)" (I don't know why it specifies IS F only). And of course doesn't mention transmission fluid because it's supposed to be "lifetime fluid" but a lot of places I'm reading people do not advise believing in that and to change it at 60k. I do drive pretty spirited, and I may not stay on top of keeping all the wheels perfectly the same all the time. I have access to a lift I can use any time for free (or a bottle of scotch, ha) and honestly I don't really mind learning how to do it. But if you guys really think I don't need to bother then I hear ya and I won't mention it again, haha. Also, this reminded me, I did get a leak in my front right tire and Lexus replaced it with a new one and they said it's ok it's within 1 or 2 16ths of an inch compared to the other one. Is that really ok? I'm worried about putting any strain on the transmission. Should I keep the two tires the same exact pressure or should I fill the older one up a little more?
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Jul 23, 2019 21:23
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Hi I'm back. I'm the weirdo oddly insisting on changing the transmission fluid on a 2014 Lexus IS350 F-Sport AWD with 60k miles. It was recommended to get snow tires on a different set of wheels to take full advantage of AWD in the winter. I found this on CL. On my car now: Wheels: Factory OEM Aluminum, 18" x 8" front, (18" x 8.5" rear), 5 lug 114.3 bolt pattern, 45mm offset front, (50mm rear) Tires: 225/40ZR18 front, 255/35ZR18 rear On that CL link: Wheels: Unknown brand steel, 16" x ???", 5 lug 114.3 bolt pattern, unknown offset Tires: 205/55/16 On the side of my house as my winter set from my old car (2002 IS300 sedan): Wheels: Factory OEM Aluminum, 17" x 7", (17" x 7.5" rear), 5 lug 114.3 bolt pattern, 50mm offset Tires: Can't remember, and I'd have to get new snows anyway. I found this calculator and what I'm comparing seems like this would be within the threshold of a size change that'd be safe and not hurt anything on the car, transmission, etc.   So my questions are: Am I using this tool and reading it right? Is this the right way to accomplish what I'm looking to do? If I got these tires/wheels from CL would they work? Is the offset difference a problem for either the CL ones or my spare set? Am I saving any money or is this a dumb idea and I shouldn't bother with CL or anything like this and just go to a real shop? Should I try to use the wheels from my old car, get new snows, and balanced and everything, or not bother? (Only caveat with last question is that all 4 wheels are bent. They did not handle the potholes of upstate NY very well and I am just so proud to admit I found and unsuccessfully avoided every pothole in the state during the time I had those on.) yamdankee fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jul 29, 2019 |
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Jul 29, 2019 18:47
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Ah, good question! I can't find anyone in my cursory search with my car with 16" wheels. Maybe I should be thinking differently. Looks like TireRack is having a sale. Link Maybe I should get those and another set of the same dimension wheels 18x8/18x8.5 and use that in the winter?
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Jul 29, 2019 19:31
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Yeah they're saying there's no way 16" would clear these brakes and there's no options on tirerack.com for 16" for my car. So I guess I'll just try to find another 18" set. Someone said my speedometer would be off. Is that ok? Does it wear on anything more? Edit: Any reason these wouldn't work? https://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/wto/d/wappingers-falls-18-sport-edition-a7/6940112922.html yamdankee fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Jul 29, 2019 |
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Jul 29, 2019 20:36
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Ok I found these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-IS-OEM-17-Base-Model-Wheels-Set-Of-4/173938839886?hash=item287f90114e:g:ShMAAOSwfhNcnNhZ Looks like they used to be on a 3rd gen IS like mine. Difference is obvious 17", squared (all 7.5 width instead of 8 in front 8.5 in back), and offset is 45 all around instead of 45 in front and 50 in back. Everything checks out with size calculators, speedo will be accurate. Can take advantage of free shipping...would you guys submit an offer or is this a great price as it is? Maybe wait and shop around since I have a bit of time before winter?
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Jul 30, 2019 13:25
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More questions from babbies first AWD forums poster yamdankee ('14 IS350 f sport) I got a new front drivers side tire a couple months ago due to a nail causing a leak. I asked the lexus tech if I was going to have to replace all the tires when i brought it in and he said it's within 2/16th inches since they are all pretty new so it should be ok. I can take more accurate readings with a pressure gauge when I get home from work (I usually leave it in the car but I forgot and left it in the garage). But I noticed the pressure reading in the dash says 36 (cold) for all the tires except the front drivers side one, which is 37. After warming up it's usually 1 or 2 psi higher than the other tires. So not only is it up to 2/16th inches in tread depth larger than the rest of the tires, but it seems to be even higher pressure. I'm embarrassed it took me 2 months to realize this (I don't set the dash info on tire pressure too often, I guess I should start). So my questions are: Did I do any amount of damage to the AWD at all over this period of time or am I worrying over nothing? (I took a few 2-3 hour road trips since then along with short daily commute driving) Is there anything I can/should do to shore up the difference? Maybe put all other tires at 37 psi cold and the new one at 36 cold? Or does going up or down a couple psi not really affect the diameter overall very much? Edit: I just also noticed this maybe a week or so ago but I find my steering wheel having to be turned just ever so slightly to the right to go straight. Maybe like 1 or 2 degrees. This may be related, or not, or not even existent and maybe I'm making it up because I noticed this about my tires. I'm sorry I'm stupid, thanks for reading. yamdankee fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Aug 12, 2019 |
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Aug 12, 2019 15:45
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Nothing serious but something weird happened the other day. I was driving up to visit my family and one of my cousins said he wanted a drone so I packed up a couple that I had accumulating dust (nothing big, just dinky little super-entry-level ones) to give to him and I plugged the chargers into the USB ports. Our iPhone batteries are much bigger so I thought not much of it. (Of course the charging circuitry is much more advanced, which is probably the cause here.) But I slowed down at a stop light and I look down and my speedometer said 20 when I was almost at a stop, ha. Then went down in chunks till it eventually read zero. Then my headlights turned on and it was still super bright (which is probably what made my infotainment screen go dim). I can't imagine it was drawing a ton of electricity but the circuitry for these stupid toys is probably super cheap. Everything worked fine again after unplugging it all. Probably why scotty kilmer says to be careful with what you plug in and leave in the USB/aux power ports.
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Aug 20, 2019 18:31
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  This happened. Should I be worried?
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Jul 1, 2020 21:00
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2014 Mazda 3 Sedan, manual, brakes question. So the rear right wheel started making a horrible scraping/grinding sound so I bought new pads and rotors all around figured it was time. Yesterday I replaced the rear right rotor and pads but ran out of daylight and don’t have a garage so I had to stop there planning on doing the other side tomorrow (today). But last night after replacing just the one side I took it for a test drive around the block and after pumping the brakes and all that it ... somethings definitely off. It takes much longer to stop. Definitely not drivable atm because I slammed in the brakes a few times and it was way too slow to stop. I was hoping maybe it was a balance issue or something and replaced the other side (rear left) pads and rotors. Same problem. I’m going to take the rear right apart again tomorrow to see if I did something glaringly wrong but idk. Also maybe noteworthy, the side that had the grinding, the outside pad was worn down to past no pad (because I’m a horrible and irresponsible person) but the inner pad still had more than half left. Weird? Tldr: Did my brakes on my own now car don’t stop good.
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Feb 5, 2021 01:10
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wesleywillis posted:The caliper sliders on that corner are sticking. If you haven't you should clean them up and lube. Keep in mind, it is possible to use too much lube. Thank you for this! I will get some lubricant to address that. This would also explain why the pads in the other side today weren’t actually worn out. It was this problem that wore out one brake pad quickly and made me say time to buy all new brakes! ColostomyBag, yes the brakes are mush. And I’m trying to Google what a caliper with the emergency brake in the hat looks like but I’m not seeing anything clear. All I see in the caliper is the main piston and nothing else. I used the cube tool to push and twist the piston back. How many turns before I googled you have to PUSH and twist at the same time to make it depress I will not disclose. 
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Feb 5, 2021 02:04
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Took the car out and yanked the ebrake up a ton and no change.  I’ve never bled brakes before. I watched a YouTube video and you gotta get a brake bleeder thing with a catch can with a line and do them diagonally in specific order and all that? Jeez I was just trying to make bad noise go away. Can I just take it to a shop and ask them to bleed/flush my brake fluid? Any shame in that? And then I can do the front ones? Also, not that I’m doubting just curious, why would air in the line show itself after replacing basically one brake pad and rotor? yamdankee fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Feb 5, 2021 |
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Feb 5, 2021 03:14
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2014 Lexus IS350 F-Sport AWD Got a flat, passenger front. Put spare on, took to dealership because that's where Zurich told me to go to be covered by the wheel and tire plan i got when i purchased the car. They said there was damage to the side wall so must replace. Insurance will pay for 1 new tire, mounting, balancing. But of course I'm worried about the AWD. How much tread difference between a new tire and the existing tires is enough to merit paying for all new 4 tires? Or could I get away with just replacing driver front too, or is it an all or nothing sort of thing? I hate to have to pay for all new tires every time i get one flat. I've been driving on these since July 2020 but work from home so i haven't driven it all *that* much. Front are 225/40ZR-18 MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 4S XL, rear are 255/35ZR-18 MICHELIN PILOT SPORT 4S XL. In looking that up, I also noticed i have free road hazard protection from tirerack. Should I stick with Zurich since they work well with the dealership or should i try going through tirerack's claim? Most important thing I need to know though is can i get away with replacing the tire, or should i get a new driver front, or should i get all 4 new. Thanks guys! Edit: Oh also do I have to get an alignment? The guy at the dealership is recommending it but idk if that's an upsell or if it really should be done when replacing tire(s). Edit2: If this helps, i asked the guy to provide the current tread depths. He said: 8/32 Driver front, 8/32 driver rear, 7-8/32 passenger rear. (looked it up, tread depth new is 9.5/32). So a 1.5-2.5/32" difference. What do you think? yamdankee fucked around with this message at 15:44 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 15:34
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PainterofCrap posted:One-year-old tire and not driven much in that year? Me, I would not worry about it. Thank you very much! Guy told me it'd be $675 for 3 new tires (1 covered by insurance), and $140 for alignment. You saved me $915 and provided peace of mind that i'm not hurting the AWD. Thank you thank you! Edit: Possibly dumb followup question: Is it worth looking into getting it shaved by a place that does that? Like is that a legit thing and is it something i should maybe do to get the tread depth closer to matching? yamdankee fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Aug 25, 2021 |
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Aug 25, 2021 16:10
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