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Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



spog posted:

I need to get a tyre sealant/inflator kit for emergency use, since I can't carry a donut. I've never used one before.

(Saab 9-3 with pretty low profile tyres)

Anything to look our for, or just get a 'smart repair kit'?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Slime-18003...rds=tyre+repair

Or should I be looking for an OEM kit

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-EMERGENCY-TYRE-REPAIR-KIT-COMPRESSOR-SEALER-UNUSED-/161597814347?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item259ffaf64b
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-M...=item2c96ab72e3
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Contimobi...=item4d2d5745a1

Get a dynaplug.

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Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



spog posted:

I am picking up a subtle vibe that you guys prefer the plugs to slime. I've never heard of using them before, but if you rate it, then I'll give it a try. I assume that the first one on Amazon is the right choice:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/DYNAPLUG%C2...ywords=dynaplug



I'm going to get the Slime branded pump kit that I posted earlier (and not the more expensive OEM)- I need a pump anyway and I want something that will give me an option if the plug won't work (like my last puncture).

The reviews say that it is water soluble, so the tech won't hate me too much and I make it a policy of buying new tyres if I ever get a defect with one anyway.

EDIT: I am kind of stunned at the number of people who expect/are using this as a permanent repair. Even on motorbikes.

You can buy a cheap 12v compressor for $5-$10 at most Walmart/auto parts places. If you can't plug it, slime won't help much.

I have a dynaplug and a compressor for several cars with no spare and never been a problem. Anything worse than that and I'll just use roadside.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Shifty Pony posted:

Pinhole leak at this location... will a shop patch it or tell me it is too close to the sidewall? About 1.75" in.



Should be able to be patched, doesn't hit the shoulder.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



kastein posted:

I believe Weathertech are generally cited as the best brand out there but haven't tried them myself.

They're great, but drat they cost a lot.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Arriviste posted:

http://www.weathertech.com floor mats: Yay or Nay?

My '95 Nissan truck mats are looking wretched and, as much as I'd like identical OEM ones, they are carpeted and I want something more durable. The WT mats caught my eye because they have a hole for the mat anchor. Any experience with the company or have any others in mind that I should consider?

They're great, but expensive. Since they aren't rubber they don't have as much friction when they get wet. First time I cleaned them I about busted my rear end trying to get in.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



saint gerald posted:

Stepdaughter's.



Replace, right? Not driveable? Appropriate response to her father who told her to "just stay off the interstate?"

Replace. I'm surprised it'll hold air.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Today, a wasp got into my car. I was trying to persuade it to get out of the car when it decided it would rather crawl into the gap between my steering column and the dashboard. He has yet to reappear. I took off a trim piece to get a better view but wasn't able to locate him. Beside making a ghetto wasp trap, any suggestions to get him out?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Geirskogul posted:

Ghetto wasp trap. Container with a funnel on top pointing inwards, with a slice of lunchmeat ham at the bottom.

I've got one in there now. I'm hopeful he's not dead in there somewhere.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Geoj posted:

I always thought collision was for vehicle on vehicle accidents and comprehensive covered everything else.

Probably a question best answered by the Insurance megathread.

Collision is generally defined as the upset of a vehicle and covers everything not specifically listed as a comprehensive/other than collision loss. It's the catch all bucket.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Astonishing Wang posted:

OR if you just want it to look pretty decent you can take it to Maaco or Earl Scheib and have it painted for under a grand. $3-4k is if you want it to look REALLY REALLY Nice.

If you like overspray and poo poo paint, sure.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Geoj posted:

v0v I always just assume anything that isn't either covered or removed from the vehicle is going to get paint on it. I would never have anyone attempt to paint something with anything I didn't want paint on exposed regardless of their skill level.

Yeah but it's a nightmare to R&I all that stuff. Half of it is going to break, warp, or otherwise be unusable again. In those cases they should be roping it off to avoid overspray but that doesn't happen very well either.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



lol internet. posted:

So my tires are starting to dry rot. How much could would the labour and cost be to replace them roughly? (Just some standard tires)

This is pretty hard to answer without some more info. What is the tire size? It'll be listed on the sidewall.

If you have a Discount Tire/Big O/etc. you can quote an total figure including mount/balance online once you have the tire size.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



lol internet. posted:

215 45R17

I'm in Canada so I don't think those really apply to me but how much would the labour be for 4 of them?

Mount and balance would probably run you anywhere from 50-100.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



TKIY posted:

Not a day's worth. Guy bought out his lease and is doing a private sale.

It'll have some higher maintenance requirements/bills but it isn't a 1.8t from the early 2000s.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Is he willing to cover a rental when your car is in the shop? Thats another cost a lot of people don't factor. If you don't go through insurance your only guarantee on the repairs is the shop itself, so choose wisely.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



C-Euro posted:

I think the "don't want to get caught" part is that he told me he's still working on getting his license and only has a permit or something right now, I was talking to my insurance and it sounds like they found the insurance plan for his car with the info I gave them. That's a good point about the cost of a rental though, how long do paint touch-ups usually take?

E: He thinks Macco (Maaco?) would give us the best deal, any experience with that chain?

You aren't after the best deal. You're after quality work. Look at Yelp and Google reviews for shops, ask around, etc.

You're probably looking at a couple days for most body work at a minimum, especially if they don't have an insurance company trying to get the work done timely.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



BlackMK4 posted:

Let's see a picture of the damage.

Also this.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Motronic posted:

Based on the picture that could be anything from a bumper cover respray to a new bumper cover to a new bumper cover plus all of the impact absorbing bits behind it.

It's a pain in the rear end to reproduce those body lines in the bumper cover, if they're nicked it'll be a replacement cover. Doubt the rebar is bent but I'm betting on the impact absorber being compressed so that'll be a replacement as well.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



On a scale of 1-10, is a $500 '85 Land Cruiser an 11?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Michael Scott posted:

That price is less than the scrap value...

It actually looks pretty clean. Clear is trashed but not unexpected. Parked for 10 years, I'm sure it'd need tires, new rubber everything, fuel pump, etc.

Might go check it out this weekend.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



LargeHadron posted:

Ok, thanks. This is helpful, as I did not know there was a difference between a claim and a report.

There isn't at a lot of insurance companies. Once they are aware, they'd set up a claim.

There may be damage underneath to the impact absorber (styrofoam, hydraulic, etc) that you can't see.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



If that CVT goes, you're in for a bad time. A friend of mine has one and it's been in the shop for the CVT for 5 months. Granted, they should have never paid before the work was done, but yeah.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



rdb posted:

Sort of AI/EN here, and apologies for the length.

My wife (5 mos. pregnant) was in a bad accident a week ago. An 87 year old woman clipped another car (think pit maneuver) and sent it spinning into oncoming traffic. My wife hit it square on the side. My wife is OK, baby is OK so far, however the driver in the middle was airlifted from the scene unconscious and having breathing difficulty. It looks like the other driver is going to make it, albeit with 7 broken vertebrae, broken clavicle, and other injuries (was driving with no restraints according to the accident report). With that said, I just got a call from the insurance company that they are going to total our truck. I have a year and a half left on the payments.

This is where my question comes in. What should I do? The truck in question is a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500hd. Its a crew cab, long bed, 4wd, lbz duramax, 6 speed allison, top of the line LT3 trim with leather, 158k miles. Bone stock other than a spray in bed liner and leer camper shell (which was in the barn at the time of the accident). I cant find another truck like it, and a new one is about $62k (gently caress that). The insurance company offered me $21.5k, including tax. I gave $26k for it 3 years and 65k miles ago. I don't feel thats a bad offer, but I cant replace the truck for that much. We tow with it about once a week, we have a livestock bumper pull trailer and a 10,400lb equipment trailer. We really do need another truck, but with the baby on the way, we don't want another 5yr payment book. Buyback price was $3600, and the body shop was going to give me their estimate to repair on Monday.

The damage doesn't look bad, frame is straight, radiator support is bent, both front fenders are pushed back, bumper, grill, headlights, fog lights are shot. Airbags went off, but all the glass is good. However the real money is in the cooling stack. Intercooler, radiator, AC condenser, transmission cooler are all hosed. Steering components are OK.

If I take their first offer, we will have about $13k left to buy another truck. If I buy it back, about $9k. What should I do? I am really torn about this. Whatever vehicle it winds up being, it needs to be reliable and safe. We frequently tow 150+ miles and my wife uses it as a daily driver. I don't want my wife/kid riding around in something half-rear end put back together. I would drive it myself but my commute is 160 miles round trip and I normally drive our Prius. Going from 50mpg -> 16mpg would suck.

Can I ask for more money from the insurance company? When do I have to give the rental back? This is killing me. In southwest Indiana if that matters.

Pull comps. Look in your area, probably within 75 to 100 miles. Ideally the same packages with similar mileage. If the offer isn't in line you can use the comps to negotiate.

Typically the rental ends within 1 to 3 days post offer. This is the common problem if you don't have replacement transportation.

Regarding the total, be careful. SRS stuff can get really expensive really fast. If the estimate excess the threshold in your state you also need to research if it will carry a salvage title and the steps in that to make it roadworthy.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



QuarkMartial posted:

My wife lost the remote to her car and we're down to one key. It's just a standard chip key and the one she lost was a flip key/remote thing. What's the best way to go about replacing it?

Is it red or blue?

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



You can always open the hood. You just can't always close it again.

But do what everyone else said. Alternatively say gently caress it and see how long it goes on one oil change.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Golbez posted:

After five years of being a fatass driving my car down the tight spiral of a downtown parking deck, the seat in my '02 Ford Focus has broken quite severely, with metal now poking through at one point. How much does it generally cost to replace a car seat? The car is otherwise pretty poo poo, but I was willing to live with it, but with this happening I really don't like the idea of a spear of metal ready to impale me at the slightest impact. (see Final Destination 2)

Junkyard one. I can't imagine an 02 Focus will be tremendously hard to swap.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



FogHelmut posted:

A guy hit my parked car. Am I okay to accept a reconditioned bumper cover? I won't know the difference as long as it fits and the paint sticks to it.

What is Audatex two-stage refinish formula? Is that primer and paint? Or paint and clear coat?

This shop is pretty reputable from people I've spoken to.

Recon is fine. It's an OEM bumper. Two stage paint is always color and clear. Primer isn't included in the stages unless you have some primer/paint combo.

The formula is just what the system is telling them for the time to refinish the bumper in terms of labor hours.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



FogHelmut posted:

Liberty Mutual called me to tell me they accidentally issued the check to me instead of to the shop doing the repair on my bumper. The check is for $235, and they want me to pay that and my $500 deductible to the shop, which they will refund to me when they get the money from the other guy's GEICO.

I feel I shouldn't have to front any money, deductible or not, as this guy hit my parked car and was arrested for DUI.

Is this normal procedure? Should I not front any money for the insurance co? Should I ask them to stop the check sent to me and reissue a new on directly to the shop?

Your deductible is your self insured portion. You owe it until your company confirms the other company has accepted liability and/or receives payment, depending on how they operate. If you don't pay it the shop won't release your car.

On the $245 they should be able to stop it and reissue it.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Pham Nuwen posted:

It's basically a minivan but we weren't calling them minivans yet...



You don't want some drat Honda Odyssey or whateverthefuck, that's fine. Your penance is to drive this with a 65hp engine. Get a nice one and everyone will think it's cool. Get a ratty one and hey, you'll never get asked to pick up the neighbor kids because it would look too much like an abduction.

Also because nobody wants to put their kids in that death trap.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Ozmiander posted:

All your examples of things to avoid are actually Good Things (tm). VIN Etchings lower your insurance, Undercoating extends the life of your car if you aren't in the west and an extended warranty is generally cheaper than paying out of pocket.

VIN etching discount only applies for some companies and it is usually such a paltry amount it would take decades to recoup the cost

Dealer undercoat are usually marked up to hell.

You can often score the very same factory extended warranty online. Many forums have dealer reps who will quote and sell that warranty for significantly cheaper. If you can quote this and get the dealer you buy from to match it's usually a good price.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Ozmiander posted:

Then negotiate. You're negotiating the car, why wouldn't you on the rest?

Of course. The problem is that while there are tons of resources on what a good price for the car is, there is very limited info on these. It you're not knowledgeable you stand a much higher chance of getting hosed.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Brand new X3 with water line that low? Probably not totalled. Depends on what lives under the seats, but unless it hits the dash, it's not an automatic total. Car has a ton of value since it's new.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Why? This isn't a low production car. Find another one.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



235/50/17 will fit fine on a stock 7.5" wheel right? Going from 225/55/17 and can't find the tires I want in that size.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Slavvy posted:

If they're steel wheels then you should just get some new ones, they aren't expensive. If they're alloys, they're fixable. Google an alloy wheel reconditioner, there's bound to be one in your town. Usually much cheaper per wheel than brand new rims.

If you're just swapping them you may be able to find a used set on CL for cheaper than someone who refinishes wheels.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



I guess it might help to know why you don't want carpet so much. Whatever solution I imagine it'll cost a few thousand at a minimum.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



There is no common solution because nobody does this. Most people get by with a plastic or rubber mat for wet or muddy stuff.

Comedy option get some diamond plate and go to town.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Voltage posted:

My fiance wants "white" headlights in our new '16 Jetta instead of the "ugly" yellow ones. I'm completely out of the loop with bulb tech, but whats the best drop in bulb I can get? Am I wrong to assume all the LED/fake HID bulbs on ebay are garbage or will start fires?

Thanks!

Just throw in some Sylvania Ultras and call it good.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Grodo posted:

Here it goes, I have a 2009 Mazdaspeed 3 and I'm looking to replace all four of my tires that won't break the bank. Any suggestions for tires that will survive the minefields of Arizona roadways (pot holes the size of my car.) I'm not worried about performance or wet weather. Thanks in advance.

It seems weird to not care about good performing tires on a Speed3. Get the highest rated all seasons in your price range from TireRack if your primary concern is just cheap, decent tires. They won't be cheap because of the tire profile though.

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Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Mak0rz posted:

I checked this out before making an attempt, but it's not helpful because I can't even raise the arm more than an inch.


Holy poo poo this thread is full of people recommending to just replace the rubber strip. Why Nissan why god drat it :ughh:

I'm not sure if I want to try that solution in that post. Seems like I could break something...


Edit: After looking at it closer the wiper in the ezwipers.com page don't even have the same design.

Usually replacing the rubber is much cheaper. Depending on the design it can range from easy to impossible.

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