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About to do a trans fluid swap and filter swap. Can I pull the pan, pull filter, start engine and idle it in park till fluid stops pouring out of the cooler line, Hook it back up, install pan, fill trans ? All the poo poo I read says to replace it at 4L intervals, but I'm lazy. Edit: to further explain, pumping out all the old fluid will allow a cleaner fluid overall since I'm not mixing old and new as I'm doing the "infusion" style. Secondly, I figure enough fluid residue will exist to not damage seals or clutches for the 30 seconds it takes to fully drain the remaining 5L of fluid in the converter etc. jonathan fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Mar 1, 2015 |
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Mar 1, 2015 05:02
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Slavvy posted:Depends on the colour of the car. If it's a blue car you have to turn the car upside down to stop the valvebody falling out. If it's a green car you have to tilt the car on a 45 degree angle to make sure all the fluid comes out. Its white but I was thinking of plastidipping it fire engine red. It's a 2008 Jeep Wrangler Auto.
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Mar 1, 2015 07:28
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Uthor posted:2011 Subaru Forester Inspect the level while it's running in park. The colour should be like runny strawberry jam. It should not smell burnt. I'd change it every 50,000 miles give or take. Less if you're towing often. The dealerships seem to charge a hilarious amount for a fluid flush, the budget lube shops seem to be a little more reasonable around $150. Considering the fluid will run you around $50 and the filter another $20, thats not actually a bad deal.
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Mar 1, 2015 20:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:That still seems like a long time to have the pump sucking air. Yup. The moment it lost prime it stopped pushing out fluid. So I basically added 3L every time I pumped out 3L after swapping the filter. I added .7L of that Lucas Transmission fix stuff. Hopefully get another few months out of it, and then I'm thinking LS3 swap + 6speed auto + eBay turbo. On a side note, 42LE on a jk is a pain.
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Mar 3, 2015 04:55
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I'm about to do a trans fluid exchange in the driveway. It's a Ram heavy duty. Pretty sure it attaches with hardlines to the cooler with those fuel line connections that need the remover tool. Instead I'd like to just cut the rubber line and install some sort of threaded connection. Anyone know what I could use ? Maybe a barbed end to AN male/female to barbed end ?
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Jul 22, 2016 22:05
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