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2009 Chevy Silverado - Black. LMG 5.3L V8 SFI (via the VIN) Engine. edit: about 92K on the clock, at 80K an evap vent solenoid was replaced per the paperwork I have found in the glovebox. This is my brother-in-law's truck and he is out of town so it's on me to fix it properly and hopefully in the most money efficient manner possible. I should be able to do the work but the issue may end up being time and I might have to take it to a mechanic anyway but I'm hoping to avoid that. Just threw a P0301 per my OBD II bluetooth scanner. Sitting at idle I can feel and hear the roughness.   No idea of course what the second image means but it was the only one I noticed in red. I can of course run any scans capable for torque to do but I don't know what may be useful. Internet tells me maybe O2 sensor but I know ya'll will have more detailed info, or I hope anyway. tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jul 17, 2015 |
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Jul 17, 2015 02:04
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Does AI have a garage thread? And related, if AI does not have one should I create a thread here or in DIY soliciting garage ideas/tips? I am about to be having GCs quoting me to build a 2 car garage and want to pick brains on options and sizing and cool workbenches and storage options and so on. If my pricing works out I also plan to put in a car lift but that may get back burnered.
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Sep 2, 2017 04:25
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Geoj posted:Your Durango uses 9006 bulbs; about 10 years ago some bulb manufacturers started producing halogen infrared bulbs which have a coating on the inside of the bulb that bounces infrared radiation back at the filament resulting in 75% higher lumen output at the same current & voltage. If you can find a pair of 9012 HIR bulbs (they're somewhat rare as the technology didn't really take off) the bases can be modified to fit the 9006 sockets in your headlights, at which point they're physically and optically identical to normal 9006 halogens. On a similar note. What about bright bulbs for a 2012 Impreza? I don't want to mess with HIDs and I want to make sure the stock reflectors still work properly with whatever bulbs I buy. Do I just look for bulbs to fit my car and aim for the highest lumen option?
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Feb 11, 2018 03:49
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0toShifty posted:Your Impreza uses H11 bulbs, my Prius C does as well. That's awesome, I am definitely going to do this and then I'll probably just buy some spares to keep in the glovebox. That, or I'll get a lightbar 
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Feb 11, 2018 21:34
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My utter shite air compressor finally died (or rather it started smoking and I shut it down). It was just a small one for inflating tires. Any recommendations for a good one or perhaps sell me on upgrading to a 5gal(?) compressor that runs on 110v?
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Apr 29, 2018 22:48
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Thanks guys I'll pick up a Viair it looks like.
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Apr 30, 2018 00:52
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I am considering buying a used vehicle from out of state. Perhaps in the Los Angeles, CA area (for example - this could change). Any advice on how to find a mechanic in the area to do a PPI on the car before I fly out to buy a car? Once I have a city/area locked down should I just post again in this thread for goon tips? Or [insert other option]?
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Dec 5, 2019 23:25
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Krakkles posted:Yelp is probably the easy answer, certainly posting is viable as well. I'd try here and here. To your point, if not LA, try whatever local thread in LAN. Thanks for this btw!
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Dec 7, 2019 00:51
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sea of losers posted:the "winter" and "boring states" are some of the big reasons, yeah. the other is that im in virginia so id have to spend a few hundred $ just to get to where the car currently is, so that cost would be added to the fuel, maintenance, and food/drink id be consuming during the drive. the thing has ~160k miles on it and its a car i intend to own, so no im not flipping it. if i have to go out there then drive it back then id be willing to do so, but i cant really afford to spend money on hotels and such. that wouldnt be a problem in summer, but it's winter. Have you had any services quote you yet? An open car hauler will probably be ~$800 at a guess. I got some quotes for TN to OR which is obviously further but the quotes were in the $1200 range IIRC. I'm guessing 2-3 days drive depending on your grit and the weather cooperating, the final day of which you'll be home to sleep in your bed. Not sure on your MPG but lovely motels are 50-80 a night and eat some poo poo mcdonalds plus whatever for a one way flight, likely to come out cheaper versus a hauler. Of course this assumption rests on you not cutting into your working hours and paycheck by doing the fly/drive so maybe the car hauler router makes more sense if you can't fit it into your work schedule.
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Dec 8, 2019 02:40
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JacquelineDempsey posted:Thanks for the replies! Puck lock is a great idea, we used those for our storage unit where I used to work, wouldn't have thought about incorporating them onto a van. Could you try rigging up some little magnet based noise alarms on the doors? Battery powered, not sure how long the battery will last depending on how cold your area gets. Similar concept to a home security system with magnets on the doors and windows. You can buy ones with a remote key fob to turn the alarm on/off. Maybe there is something more car specific that you could wire to the battery.
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Dec 16, 2019 03:06
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`Nemesis posted:My friend was killed christmas eve, does anyone recognize the vehicle that ran her down? Leading guess is a Jeep Liberty. As mentioned source video would be great, otherwise can anyone get a downloadable link on this video? I'd like to try grabbing some frames to post some more easily seen poo poo.
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Dec 26, 2019 06:50
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Looking into getting my car more prepared for emergencies on the road today and discovered that it came with a ContiMobilityKit. It's a 2016 so the fluid part of the kit expired back 10/19. link to full kit The optimal solution would be for me to discover time travel and get the dealership to replace it so my real question is should I get more of the fluid or should I look to purchase a different kit of some sort? It's a Jaguar F-Type so cargo space to store this sort of thing is limited. edit: related question, if I should get more fluid where can I buy it (online)? tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Mar 5, 2020 |
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Mar 5, 2020 19:11
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Yeah I'm in the US. Doing some more research it looks like Tyreweld is well regarded and as a bonus can be washed out of a tire after use which I assume would make repair easier/feasible depending on the puncture. edit: looks like you can't buy this in the US so probably a no go I might try buying the sealant off that ebay link taqueso, the only ebay one I had found was charging like 100+ for shipping which would be insane of course. tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Mar 6, 2020 |
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Mar 6, 2020 00:04
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I had just put in an order for Mission Automotive Silicone Paste for doing new brake pads on my F-Type (if it matters?) and got back that they are out of stock, amazon showing low stock/long ship times for it also. I just kinda googled for that brand in the first place TBH, if I get 3M Silicone Paste from a local shop is that good/bad? Should I get something different?
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Oct 9, 2020 07:02
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Got it thanks guys. Not sure how I managed to google into completely the wrong thing, glad it was out of stock now.
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Oct 9, 2020 17:30
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Well now I own a 2008 Honda Ridgeline and I'm taking a look at this underbed storage/cooler box area it has. I think I would like to hit the rust spots with some sanding, clean it all up and then coat everything in some rust inhibiting spray paint. Maybe also throw some bed liner spray on it? Or as I google while typing this, maybe I just blast this Rustoleum product? https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248914-Spray-Paint-15-Ounce/dp/B003CT49B2 Any thoughts/suggestions? 
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Jul 1, 2022 05:42
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PBCrunch posted:I think the inside of that Ridgeline cargo area is plastic, isn't it? I think that rust you see could be residue that something wet and rusty left when it was in that cargo area. You could definitely be right. I'll check it out when I go to clean it out (before I buy any coating sprays). I bet a nice thing of Costco shrimp will fit in the ice chest, what day you big dicked bird?
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Jul 2, 2022 01:22
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2008 Honda Ridgeline - P0456 Powertrain Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak, check fuel cap, piping, etc) Popped a CEL a couple weeks back, it was the above code as pulled by my Torque app & OBD II reader. I tried fixing it with buying a MotoRad MGC-817T Fuel Cap, installed and reset the CEL. About 4-5 days later after some driving to cycle the testing system the code came back. What are next steps for me to check if I'm trying to troubleshoot this at home? And/Or is this something I should have a competent Honda mechanic look at?
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Aug 1, 2022 23:17
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Rexxed posted:The way the evap system works is that it captures gasoline that evaporates from your gas tank in a canister, then feeds it up into the intake when it's running to burn the gas instead of letting it go out to the atmosphere. If there's a leak in the evap system usually the next step is some kind of leak testing with a smoke machine. Unless you want to do it yourself it's likely that a mechanic will need to do it. I smoke tested my own and it turned out mice had bitten some holes in the line between the top of the gas tank and the evap system charcoal canister. I couldn't really reach the spots I needed to get to for a replacement of that line myself so I had a mechanic do it. Hmm thanks for the explanation, I'll see what I can find out from a mechanic on pricing to do that testing and decide from there. I haven't actually needed a mechanic yet since I moved across country so the fun part will be looking for a reputable shop.
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Aug 2, 2022 00:03
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