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School me on exhausts, I've never worked with 'em before: The muffler on my 1988 Cherokee is shot (small rust holes on the bottom), and the noise of the exhaust leak is starting to piss me off. I tried several different patch epoxies which all fell off within a couple of weeks. Is installing a new one as easy as it looks? I was going to price it at a shop, but it seems the job don't necessarily require welding (just clamps)? I have a sawzall etc... Second, I was considering replacing the cat while I'm at it - it's a California car and as far as I can tell it's original due to no major rust. Is this a stupid use of $180? The Jeep passed smog with good numbers when I bought it 8 months ago, so the cat seems to be ok - do they get clogged up over 27years and 188,000 miles? Maybe I'd get a bit of performance/mpg boost? This is my pre-OBD1 desert beater so if this is a case of ain't broke/don't fix I'll skip it.
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Feb 27, 2015 03:42
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1500quidporsche posted:The problems with clamps is that they loosen over time and will basically wiggle free. If you aren't offroading your jeep it probably is something you can get away with though. Hah, I'm building it for washboarded, rutty desert roads so that answers that question. Thanks! Geoj posted:If you're still in California I'd be shocked if you could get a CARB-certified cat for $180. I am, but O'Reilly's site says $183 (pre-tax, natch) for a CARB compliant MagnaFlow # 339004. RockAuto says $158 for a Walker #80945. Unless there's some emissions-rapetax on checkout I'm missing...
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Feb 27, 2015 07:04
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EightBit posted:There may be quite a hefty core charge on there, though. Out of curiosity I went through to the point of checkout on both sites; neither added a core charge which seems bizzare, since I got charged core when I bought a tailgate hatch lift strut last time I was at the junkyard. Even the stoned kid at the counter that day doublechecked, and said it was stupid. I did a quick search on recycling cats just now and found several places willing to come buy/pick them up, however. Only a goddamned fool would attempt to understand California emissions regulations and the labyrinth of business it creates.  edit: a cursory search says there are no core charges for cat converters, because they're not a rebuildable part. They're just valued for scrap due to the various rare metals used. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Feb 27, 2015 |
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Feb 27, 2015 07:33
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Sentient Data posted:So here's a potential bit of fun, is there a way to tell the specs of a fuel injector from its markings?... Yeah I tried looking for those numbers + "bosch" (my 88 jeep uses boschs that look like those, so I figure it's a good guess) and didn't get much. The numbers should definitely all be the same for each injector. It looks like you can get new injectors pretty cheap on RockAuto so you could do that. I went junkyarding for injectors when I swapped them in the jeep... $6/ea, then got a $15 oring/pintle cap rebuild kit and cleaned them up. Bring a 9v battery with you to the yard, snip off one of the injector pigtail connectors, strip the ends and touch them to the posts on the 9v. If the injector is still "good" you can hear it clicking. Bring the little pigtail home with you, and you can use it with a bit of tube and a kitchen syringe to run injector cleaner thru them when you refurb them. Mine run great. If you go JY hunting, RockAuto's cross-compatibility list for your model injector says this: BMW 533I (1983 - 1984) BMW 633CSI (1982 - 1984) BMW 733I (1982 - 1984) BMW M3 (1988 - 1991) BMW M5 1988 BMW M6 (1987 - 1988) BUICK SKYHAWK (1984 - 1986) CHRYSLER E CLASS 1984 CHRYSLER LASER (1984 - 1986) CHRYSLER LEBARON (1984 - 1988) CHRYSLER NEW YORKER (1984 - 1988) CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY (1985 - 1988) DODGE 600 (1984 - 1988) DODGE ARIES 1988 DODGE CHARGER 1986 DODGE DAYTONA (1984 - 1988) DODGE LANCER (1986 - 1988) DODGE OMNI 1986 DODGE SHADOW (1987 - 1988) FORD ESCORT (1983 - 1985) FORD EXP (1983 - 1985) PLYMOUTH CARAVELLE (1985 - 1988) PLYMOUTH SUNDANCE (1987 - 1988) PONTIAC J2000 (1984 - 1985) PONTIAC SUNBIRD 1986 PORSCHE 944 (1983 - 1984) edit: also make sure you use Viton/fuel-rated O-rings and not just any rubber ones. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 01:36 on Feb 28, 2015 |
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Feb 28, 2015 01:28
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JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:I'll find an autozone/advance auto/pep boys. They'll do it for free? Really, buy a well-reviewed bluetooth OBD dongle from Amazon and buy Torque (or the Apple equivalent as I'm sure there's one) and pull all the codes you want for ~$20. It's definitely worth it just to be able to Google your exact code and find people with the same issues/fixes. Takes five minutes to set up and I've used that combo to troubleshoot/clear dumb lights on my BMW. Plus if you want to get nerdy you can set up cool dashboards on your phone that spin and move as you drive to impress
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Mar 25, 2015 06:03
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some texas redneck posted:
I was going to post a scathing burn on Apple here, but my S5 took five seconds to switch between apps and crashed a core process. Thanks Lollipop.
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Mar 25, 2015 06:22
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Apple has locked down bluetooth to the point that the BT adapters don't work on iOS.
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GotDonuts posted:I am a novice mechanic lost in an ASE Master Tech's toolbox. I was in a similar situation (without thousands of dollars of tools (I'm so jealous)) where I wanted to learn more, but didn't want to practice on my clean, newer-model BMW. After seeing so many threads here of guys having "fun" fixing ratty pieces of poo poo I decided I wanted to do that too. I chose a ratty piece of poo poo Jeep with a million leaks, tore straight into it and a year later have learned a whole lot. The entire process would have been even more fun without tool expenditures, so I recommend it for you. Pick something that tickles your fancy for a couple grand, and go to town. Just don't learn on your daily if you can help it at all. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 23:46 on Mar 31, 2015 |
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Mar 31, 2015 23:44
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Blindeye posted:Thoughts? I'd say it was coincidence but I've seen paint get hosed up my antifreeze in the past. Those definitely look like chips to me - antifreeze or really most car fluids won't do that to paint, except for battery acid. Brake fluid or strong solvents will eat/dull the clearcoat but not take out chunks. Looks more like someone being careless with an air hose connection or other tool. Sucks either way. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Apr 1, 2015 |
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Apr 1, 2015 02:57
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Hit up a junkyard?
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Apr 6, 2015 20:55
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Safety Dance posted:I did this. Assuming you enjoyed going offroad and want to do it again:
If you did not enjoy the whole trail thing:
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Apr 20, 2015 05:02
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Leperflesh posted:The one thing a person should not do is deliberately saddle themselves with a lovely car that they actually need to use as reliable transportation. It's fine to have a second car as your project car, but you don't want to be trying to learn how to fix a car, on the fly, that needs to be running in order for you to get to work in the morning. This times a billion. You absolutely have to factor in needing spare garage space/budget/time for a non-operational car. If you roll into work on time every few days with the lovely beater you're rebuilding; the right people will appreciate it and no one else will notice. Get dropped off two hours late every few days because your heap died, and you're just a loser with a lovely car. I bought a beater to learn to wrench on because I already had a
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May 1, 2015 07:29
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TKIY posted:Gm called me full of apologies. He'll do whatever it takes, insists it was an oversight not want sort of malice. Tell him you're willing to come back in and let them make good if you get exactly what you want and the drat gift bag. If they throw you the slightest curveball you are an avid Yelper and love leaving scathing reviews 
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May 4, 2015 21:40
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Pham Nuwen posted:I think I've sorted out the pickup's misfiring problem (1986 Mazda B2000). why does it occasionally blow lots of white smoke out the tailpipe when I start it? The white smoke only seems to come when it's starting from cold, and it goes away after a minute, but there's a fuckload of it. Unlikely, but my BMW did this for awhile (before I was a DIY car guy). I finally took it in to the shop and the guy laughed and pointed out that my oil dipstick wasn't seated in all the way. Pushed it in and it never did it again.
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Aug 28, 2015 04:00
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seaborgium posted:I just moved to California, and I'm going to need to register my truck in the near future. It's a 92 Ford Ranger, I'm just looking for what I'm in for. There's no real problems with the truck, but is there anything I should do before hand to help it out? Additives? Get the oil changed even if I don't need it just yet? Sacrifice a chicken to the gods of the small trucks? I've read through the DMV page, but short of going in and doing it I won't know if there's anything I should have done beforehand that would help. Buy a can of Seafoam and put half in your gastank and half through the brake booster line, then drive it hard for the remainder of the tank. Do the usual tuneup - oil change, spark plugs/wires/air filter. I dunno poo poo about Rangers but if your O2 sensor is original and cheap to replace that's a good idea. If you're running anything other than stock under the hood i.e. air intake/bypassed vac lines etc you'll want to change it back to stock to pass the visual inspection. CA smog varies a bit depending on if you're in a major city (i.e. high pollutant area) or not. Assuming you have to do the dyno + sniffer test, find a chill local shop who will run it through in test mode first to see if you have any major problems. Make sure your cat is good and hot for the check. All the techs know our emissions system is fully stupid, and in my experience they are happy to ignore small stuff like non-oem injectors/etc as long as the numbers add up right on the final scan. All the non-test scans are fully computerized so the moment you pass or fail the results are uploaded to the Great Machine and you're on the record.
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Aug 31, 2015 08:32
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Sounds like your overflow tank cap might be bad? Mine used to bubble over under load until I replaced the cap (forget the part number but it was from a Volvo and is a common tweak at least for 87-90 renix XJs.) Try that first at least because it's cheap and easy. Hell, replace the radiator cap too while you're at it. You're fine to leave the water in a few weeks until you fix the problem, then I'd flush and refill with 50/50 distilled water/green antifreeze. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 09:10 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 09:04
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General_Failure posted:Followup question from before. Can someone help me with my homework? Rockauto lists 11 different compatible 02 sensors... Mopar #56028301 being the most expensive at $61. BOSCH #15704 at $24 and NTK #23023 at $28 being midrange. I have an NTK in my XJ and recommend it... the older pre91 XJs prefer those, not sure about yours but it's a good brand/safe bet. I can't remember the cutoff year when the 4.0s went to up and downstream 02s but IIRC you probably need more than 1 sensor. The jeep thread will be able to tell you for sure. I used a crescent wrench + cheater pipe to remove/install my O2. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Oct 5, 2015 |
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Oct 5, 2015 00:51
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General_Failure posted:Cool thanks. i can't order from Rockauto though Both the Bosch and NTK sensors are the same price on Amazon.
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Oct 5, 2015 04:37
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JoelJoel posted:Got a quick question but not sure if I'm in the right place. I'm having an issue with a Kenwood deck that came with a car I recently purchased. I don't know dick about car audio, but the dudes in here probably do!
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Oct 9, 2015 23:55
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Jack B Nimble posted:
Both of those things are cheap and useful, especially the inline checker - I keep one permanently in my offroad 4x4 kit after having to check for spark without one on a cold, hungover morning 20 miles from pavement.
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Jan 18, 2016 03:00
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FenderRXB posted:I've exhausted anything I can think of, which was basically Ctrl+P. That however just prints the useless tool bar of buttons that no longer function. Maybe try running the old Adobe software in compatibility mode for WinXP and then opening the diagram?
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Jun 21, 2016 23:12
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NESguerilla posted:I haven't heard of anything like that but it's possible. If there is one I certainly did not do it. Yes, in California there's a slip of paper attached to the title you can mail in to inform the DMV of the change in ownership, or you can do it online (my pref). It's literally the first thing I do after watching some stranger drive off in a car still registered in my name, and 99% of the time not yet on the buyers insurance policy. Check to see if your state offers something similar online for next time. I also print a dated copy of the DMV site's confirmation page and put it in my "past vehicles" folder along with old Bill-of-Sales etc. As for what you should do at this point,I would be inclined to ignore him unless you actually start getting tickets to your address, at which point it's time to go to the DMV with any sale paperwork you have. He sounds like an idiot and I don't see how signing anything on his behalf will be too great for you in the long run.
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Jun 29, 2016 21:50
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Slavvy posted:I can't speak for the US but over here ricers love them because....well I don't know why because. Naturally they're horribly illegal and naturally nobody gives a gently caress. They're often combined with poorly engineered spacers and oversized rims with stretched tyres.  Wierd... is it one of those weight reduction things that could be also accomplished by taking a poo poo before driving your car to the meet, or avoiding fast food for a week? Or is it because they look shiny with open end lugnuts?
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Jul 25, 2016 02:34
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LivesInGrey posted:How easy/hard is it for two non-mechanics equipped with only the pdf of a Haynes manual to replace the headlights, mirrors, and maybe a rear window mechanism on a 2002 Alero? Our local pick and pull is having an all you can carry deal on Sunday and if it's reasonable to snag those parts and swap them out, my wife and I would like to do so. We're both about moderately handy and own a basic tool set along with a battery-powered drill/screwdriver set. Absolutely go and have fun taking parts off of junkers - if you can pull everything you want without having to gently caress the donor up too badly, then you will most likely be able to use your newfound knowledge installing it all on your car. That's the beauty of being a noob in a junkyard; cheap parts and carefree learning. If you break everything and find you're out of your league then just laugh and go get lunch. The headlights and mirrors should be super basic once you figure out which trim pieces hide the fasteners. The rear window mechanism will be more involved but you can figure it out... you might want to pick up a cheapo bit set for your drill that has slightly more advanced tips like torx /hex/etc. Something like this. And don't forget your biggest/longest basic-rear end screwdriver for prying duty. Junkyards are fun! The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 05:08 on Aug 4, 2016 |
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Aug 4, 2016 05:04
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Javid posted:Re: headliners. Where do you find the stuff to actually match your original headliner? Joann's has like, black, white, and tan. My car has tan, but a visibly much darker shade than they have. I wanted to cheaply replace the felt headliner in my old jeep, and wasn't having much luck at all the craft stores (color or fabric width). Lo and behold, WalMart had exactly the shade of dark tan I needed in 6ft width. The 3M adhesive spray was just halfway across the store too. Whole thing cost me about $30. It came out great for a 28year old beater Jeep, but your standards may be higher than mine. If I'm remembering they had a bunch of vinyl too.
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Aug 24, 2016 06:39
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Definitely get a bluetooth scanner and the appropriate app (even if it's $5 or whatever).IOwnCalculus posted:Never underestimate the ability of a smog tech to be completely loving wrong. One of the guys here sent a local Jeeper to the waiver station for incomplete monitors. On this note, if at all possible, try to find/get recommended a good smogcheck shop. I got lucky and picked the right local place - the dude is fair and won't ignore obvious missing equipment, but he actively helped and advised me when I was having trouble passing my old Jeep. He even spent a good hour with me running on the dyno in some test/mechanic mode trying different things, replacing vac hoses from his stash, disconnecting sensors, etc. at no extra charge. It helped I always try to go during off-peak hours, but I really appreciated that he didn't immediately fail me a second time and try to charge/refer me for repairs. By the time I figured out my problem a few weeks and some followup tests later, we got along famously. He seemed to appreciate that I loved my old shitheap and was honestly curious about the emissions process. He recognises me ("you're the guy with the red jeep!") when I bring in my other car, and I take the fleet trucks from work there now to give him the business.
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Sep 1, 2016 03:43
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Raluek posted:Make a thread when you get working on it! My daily is a 4-door non-SS one of those. The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity: As for the Hantavirus concerns,
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Sep 18, 2016 04:18
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This is a stupid question because I feel especially dumb asking it: I'm trying to diagnose my old Cherokee's no-start situation, and due to the fuel pump suddenly not making it's usual whine on startup I borrowed a fuel pressure test gauge from OReilly's (never used one before). The gauge reads zero. It also reads zero when I hook it up to my dad's running Suburban. I'm just screwing the gauge onto the rail schrader valve, right? The fact that the gauge hose leaks gas when I unscrew it tells me the gauge is broken, correct? I'm not missing a subtle nuance of a simple pressure gauge?
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Oct 7, 2016 01:32
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Is there a button on the gauge body? You may need to press it to get it to read. It'll then hold the reading until you press the button after it's been disconnected. Otherwise, yeah, gauge is broken. The only button is for the bleed/relief valve like in this photo - which, incidentally, doesn't release fuel when pressed even on my dad's running engine. That's another thing that confused me... maybe it's the wrong shrader valve fitting; even if the gauge is busted shouldn't the bleed valve work? 
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Oct 7, 2016 05:10
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SCA Enthusiast posted:I had this happen to me on my el cheapo harbor freight gauge and when I looked in the fitting on the gauge I discovered that the part to depress the pin in the Schrader valve had fallen out and disappeared. Nothing to depress the pin = no flow to the gauge. I'm thinking something like this. I might try the loaner from AutoZone today and see if it chooches. kastein posted:RENIX right? Check your ballast resistor, it's on the driver fender somewhere in the engine compartment, big white ceramic bar. Try just hooking the two wires together instead of through the resistor. Yeah, I jumpered that and tried a different fuel pump relay with no luck. Fuel will pour out the line if I disconnect it and try to start, but it might not be enough pressure (31psi) - it doesn't seem as strong a spray as last time I did that. There's spark coming off the coil according to my tester so I know it's not the CPS. I also replaced the NSS because I had a new spare. edit: just unhooked the fuel line at the fuel filter and cranked, now I'm getting no fuel at all. Looks like it's time to order a new pump. The Royal Nonesuch fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Oct 7, 2016 |
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Oct 7, 2016 18:26
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FogHelmut posted:Dumb question: Is it safe to drive to a mechanic? 
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Oct 9, 2016 03:49
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two_beer_bishes posted:Out driving last night and we saw a 40s or 50s car on a trailer. My wife has mentioned several times before that she wants an old car like that after we buy a house and she asked about their reliability and what happens when they break down. I'm sure it depends on the specific year/model, but how tough is it to find parts for older cars like that? Everyone has covered it pretty well, but as long as it's your weekend/hobby car and you have a good AAA plan breaking down will happen and suck but you can go "meh" and get it towed. My attitude about breaking down changed drastically when I started doing backcountry 4x4 stuff way outside of cell reception - if I'm on pavement I don't sweat anything  Find a car you both like that had high production numbers, a good aftermarket and don't get crazy about 100% OEM STOCK FACTORY and you'll have fun.
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Oct 10, 2016 02:50
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an skeleton posted:
If you competed the notice of transfer online I believe you should be fine, liability-wise (it's usually supposed to be done within X days tho, and I'm no lawyer etc). What I have always done is have the buyer fill in his address and name on the pink slip tear-off transfer slip ("hey man can you put your info down, it'll be faster lol"), then I go home and immediately fill out the DMVs online transfer notice. I keep the original slip with buyer's handwriting on it clipped to the bill of sale, a printed copy of the online transfer confirmation # and any other old paperwork on the car. Luckily I haven't had a deadbeat like you yet, but I figure that should keep me pretty well covered. If I were you I'd just toss all the mail you're getting in a box somewhere, and wait for him to call you someday needing some of it after he finally gets pulled over. Some people are really intent on learning the hard way, nothing you can do with them.
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Feb 7, 2017 20:57
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FogHelmut posted:I've had AAA for pretty much my entire licensed life. I have newer cars with warranties and all that. AAA was great when I was young and had lovely cars, and it seems pretty pointless now, but I like to have it anyway. Is there an advantage that AAA has over roadside assistance through my insurance company? I dunno how often you buy cars, but being able to do registration at AAA instead of DMV is pretty awesome. The hotel and Hertz discount is nice. I also use AAA as my insurance company, and it's nice to be able to go in and adjust coverage in person so they can answer my stupid questions on coverage levels. Also paper maps 
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Feb 12, 2017 19:20
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God the oilchange saga is a sick nightmare, good luck with that cr0y. I am so thankful I have a place and tools and knowledge so I can do them myself. I tried to convince a friend to let me show him how when he got his brand-new truck, but he was all FREE DEALER OILCHANGES MAN!! which lasted through two, until he witnessed the one of the oil jockeys destroy the passenger side of a new Tundra on a pylon as it came out of the bay. His truck was next in line. He comes to my place now and loves it.
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Feb 17, 2017 04:32
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GOD IS BED posted:Can't say for sure that I've never seen smoke before. It was a lighter color, but so brief I couldn't tell if it was white or light gray. Is the oil dipstick fully seated down?
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Feb 20, 2017 23:28
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Preoptopus posted:I don't think it's supposed to be changed. Right, but isn't that like my BMW's ~~lifetime~~ ATF, where it lasts the lifetime of the transmission which would be extended by, you know, changing the fluid? Or does the Prius have a sealed transmission or something hip?
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Mar 2, 2017 03:32
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Interesting... so unless you're launching your prius hard as gently caress daily it's not necessary until waay into 120,000+ territory, and only if you're nervous about it.
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Mar 2, 2017 07:15
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Digirat posted:It's not coming out of the exhaust pipe--it's leaking from the opposite side of the muffler, and it looks like it is slightly rusted open at that spot. It wouldn't worry me if it was just coming out of the exhaust pipe, but this is not a spot where I'd expect to see water leaking. Does that actually not matter? The new muffler I had put on my Jeep had a small factory-made puncture on the underside, in that exact location, (I assume) to allow water/condensation to drip out instead of sitting inside rusting. I think you're good mano.
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Mar 9, 2017 03:27
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Sparkplug chat is loving fascinating. I love this subforum. Totalnewbie: so on my oldass 1988 Jeep I6 4.0 I run either Autolites or Champions at .035 because endless greybeards online say the cheapo plugs run the best/are more similar to OEM tech when the engine was designed. Is that stupid? Because I've always felt it might be. Champions run just fine and are cheap so whatever; I go with it... are the old-timers correct about the cheap plugs being correct for the old engine, or are they accidentally correct because there's only so much performance you can pull out of a 200,000+ mile 4.0 and/or more expensive plugs would be wasted? Perhaps both are correct! 
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Mar 17, 2017 04:34
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Cached Money posted:Need some help with my friends car we're trying to get running perfectly again. Is it popping any codes? Go buy some good MAF cleaner and spray the hell out of your MAF. E46s are at an age where a lot of the engine bay plastic stuff needs to be replaced if it hasn't been, even on low mileage ones. My 86,000mile 2005 330Ci popped P0171/174 (lean) and after doing the research (likely a vac leak) I decided to load the parts cannon - I love the car and plan on keeping it awhile, so it made sense. Rebuilt the whole CCV system, whose hoses shattered in my hands (I also did the o-rings on the ccv rail). Rebuilt the DISA valve which is another common vac leak (o-ring seal was hardened/squared off). The lower intake boot had several rips in it. Wasn't too bad of a job really aside from fishing the CCV system through the intake runners. Incidentally, I also recently rebuilt the VANOS seals w/the Beisan systems kit - it made a big difference; acceleration feels like a new car now. If your buddy is serious about getting it perfect again that's definitely something to consider once you solve the misfire.
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Mar 25, 2017 03:29
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