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My fiancées stupid '05 Vauxhall Corsa C (Holden Barina, Antipodeans) has a stupid handbrake problem, or a stupid Stump problem. Considering GM's track record, and mine, probably a mix of both. The handbrake was crap*, so I fitted new rear shoes. Handbrake still crap. The auto adjuster perhaps wasn't working, so I tried adjusting it manually. I can only get the handbrake to work OK when it's adjusted so far out the handbrake sticks on. I reckon either: I'm doing a crap job of adjusting something, or something else needs replaced or lubed, maybe... -The spring that the handbrake cable sits in doesn't seem very strong, it could be that. -Replace / Lube adjuster -The cable runners on the axle were hosed so I removed them, maybe I should get new ones. I should prob get them anyway so the cable doesn't get hosed from rubbing on the axle.  Thoughts? *I think it's fine, but it needs a two hand yank to hold at the traffic light at the top of our street - it's pretty steep though, like San Francisco steep.
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Feb 21, 2015 14:12
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Sorry for not replying to the answers to my question a while back about the Corsa handbrake, I lost patience and decided to let the garage do it when it gets MOT'd. On a completely different note I'm going to be hiring a car in Las Vegas for my honeymoon in August to drive LV>Tahoe>SF>LA>LV. What's the best affordable tier of hire to go for to increase my chances of getting something decent? In the UK is go for Ford Mondeo (Fusion) size, as most cars in that snack bracket aren't terrible. So I was thinking of going for "Ford Fusion or similar", or maybe Fullsize / Premium. Ideally I'm looking for something with a bit of poke (as in sub 9 second to 60, not a corvette), cruise and aux in or Bluetooth audio. Handling and economy aren't as important. I was thinking about a mustang, but since it'll likely be a last gen base spec v6 for £100 more than a nice sedan I'm not convinced. Also I would stick out like a sore thumb as a goddamn tourist. Lastly what are the hire companies to avoid / go for? I've always had good experiences with enterprise in the UK.
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Mar 22, 2015 13:22
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quote:hire car stuff Good stuff. Still swithering over wether to get a mustang or not. Will look at SUV's too. Sadly my company doesn't have standing agreement with anybody, Dave.
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Mar 23, 2015 10:29
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  Also my alternator got covered in PS fluid. How likely is it to be hosed? Should I chance it r replace it when I'm in there? stump fucked around with this message at 15:29 on May 2, 2016 |
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May 2, 2016 11:37
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In attempting to fix my power steering I broke the high pressure outlet pipe. The pipe is £180 from Vauxhall so I decided to cut off and replace the fuckered section. I got some high pressure hose with the correct fitting for the pump outlet on one end and a fitting for a flared 10mm pipe on the other. Great stuff I thought. Only problem is my pipe flaring tool is way too weak to flare the 10mm steel pipe. What are my options for sorting this? I am trying to avoid removing the pipe from the vehicle. I'm thinking: -Apply heat to pipe, or -Beg borrow or steal a more beefy flaring tool, or -Get my wallet out and replace the whole pipe , or -Get it towed to a garage and have them sort it First option would be the cheapest, but I'm not sure it would work, and I can see myself burning myself or the van trying to hear and flare a hot pipe. Thoughts? It's pretty irrelevant but it's a 2008 Vauxhall Vivaro 2.0 CDTI 
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May 7, 2016 11:41
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I think one from a breaker would fail in the same way while removing it, it's a common problem. The accepted fix is to cut the pipe before removing the PS pump then reattach it with flared fittings, so I don't think what I'm trying to do is sketchy. The original fitting into the pump is a flared pipe, I'm just adding a bit of high pressure pipe between the flared pipe and and pump. I'm using proper high pressure pipe I had made up by Pirtek, not some random bit I had lying about. My old man did suggest using an olive instead of a flare but I don't think it would hold the pressure.
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May 7, 2016 12:46
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Yeah I think that is the best bet. It's not particularly drivable and my usual mechanic is 25 miles away so I think I'll try and find a mobile mechanic to come round and do it.
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May 7, 2016 14:04
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Tomarse posted:I'm sure that the correct answer is that you can never have too many tools so you should spend the £180 on a beefy flaring tool. Those vice mounted ones are nice. Tempting as it is, I'd really rather not as I've got an MOT to pay for. InitialDave posted:Would an olive hold enough to get it somewhere? I'm not sure a man-in-a-van mechanic would necessarily have a suitable flaring tool on hand - however, a hydraulics guy might, so if you could check with somewhere (whoever sorted your new hose for you?) and take it there? I've gone with this route. Used an olive, and put as much of a flare on as I could to prevent the pipe being forced past the olive. I've got it together and done some low speed manoeuvres and its holding up so far. It's booked for an MOT tomorrow so I'll ask the garage to do whatever he sees fit to make it good. Some googling about using compression fittings on PS high pressure lines suggest some people do it and get away with it long term, but it's a bad idea for anything but a temporary fix. Cheers for the advice everybody.
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May 8, 2016 17:32
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InitialDave posted:Get a cheap scrappy pipe and a joint, have someone with the kit flare it so it's a bolt-on solution, chuck it in the back of the van. The issue being is that part needing flared is the part attached to the vehicle which routes round the back of the radiator and over the gearbox, so it's pretty hard to replace. You are very right about carrying a part guarantees it won't fail... until you forgot why you were carrying it and get rid of it! It made it to the garage anyway, so hopefully he can sort out my fuckery.
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May 9, 2016 11:48
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I've been testing my injectors on my 2.0 CDTI Vivaro, they should be around 150(or 160 deepening on who you listen to) to 180 k ohms. When I take readings with a multimeter the reading starts at about 10k ohms, and increases at a slowing pace i.e. at first it increases 1k ohms per second, slowing to 0.1k ohms every 10 seconds after half an hour. The video I looked at online of somebody doing the same test had a steady resistance immediately. Is my multimeter being sketchy or is it just my injectors being knackered? FWIW my readings once it had stabilised somewhat were 130, 160, 150, 147, and seeing as I'm going to have to get a guy round to remove them (they are seized into the block) I'm likely going to replace all four anyway, but I want to make sure I'm diagnosing them correctly first before I spend £500+.
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Jul 17, 2016 18:26
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MattD1zzl3 posted:I'd like to take a swing at making a YouTube car meet video. Does anybody have any tips and tricks for how to make something worth watching? Or even just common mistakes terrible people make? Do I focus on taking wide shots to get the atmosphere, or focus on interviewing Individual Car owners of interesting vehicles? One thing I remember hearing on the Smoking Tire podcast (I think it was the one with some guys from Smosh or something), which I've noticed now watching stuff in YouTube is that you can get away with mediocre visual but if your audio sucks people will turn off right away, even if the camera work and editing is great. Edit: this one http://shoutengine.com/TheSmokingTire/i-swear-im-not-creepy-scarin-maron-4499 stump fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Jul 22, 2016 |
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Jul 22, 2016 20:16
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scuz posted:Is it OK to buy used tires? I hope so, I'm poor and need new ones. I have no issue with it, I've bought second hand tyres plenty of times before, admittedly usually already mounted on wheels. I don't see it as much different to buying a second hand car and not immediately buying new tyres. I've found it usually cheaper buying a set of second hand wheels with decent tyres already on them as opposed to buying second hand tyres and paying to mount them. And then you can maybe sell your old wheels to recoup some cost. BMW e36/46 16" wheels are cheap as chips here because people like to fit rimz, a set of four with half (or less) worn brand name tyres usually goes for £150ish here if you don't mind picking them up. The only downside to this is that after three BMW's I've gone through 10 sets of wheels, three of which I still have 
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Jul 26, 2016 22:49
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I’ve need to replace a broken front spring on my £150 POS Kia. Unfortunately I can’t find torque specs for putting it back together anywhere. Thoughts- Find a similar size / suspension design car and use those specs? Check specs for the bolt size / type? Just do em good n tight? It’s a 2004 Kia Rio 1.3, facelift DC first gen hatch/wagon , in case anybody has access to specs?
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Mar 2, 2019 12:29
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stump posted:I’ve need to replace a broken front spring on my £150 POS Kia. Unfortunately I can’t find torque specs for putting it back together anywhere. I ended up going with option 1. Didn’t strip anything, took it for a test drive and the wheels didn’t fall off so that’s good enough for me.
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Mar 2, 2019 19:23
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Had my wife’s Peugeot 208 into the garage yesterday to get the air con recharged. They noted the coolant reservoir was empty and topped it up. I’d been out in the car the day before and the temp was bang on, and no warning lights. Although I’ve got a feeling Peugeot in their infinite wisdom may not have fitted a coolant level sensor. This morning the coolant reservoir was pretty much empty again. I figured the missing coolant may have disappeared to fill an air lock, if it had been very low. I’ve topped it up and been out for a run and coolant temp (via obd) is sitting at 80c, rising to 84 under heavy load and dropping back down after. Fans kick on as they should. It does not appear to be losing coolant. I’m seeing a few drops from the back of the engine but I suspect that it is AC condensation - it seems not to be coolant. TLDR here is the stupid question - there is a coolant line running back into the expansion tank that is pissing coolant back into the tank when the engine is warm - is that normal? I haven’t messed about with a GDCS is 15 years so I’m a bit thick about these things now. I’m about to drive to the centre of London from Scotland in the middle of a heatwave tomorrow, so I’m keen to make sure it’s fine and not just suck it and see! I’d take my new to me shitheap Focus, but it’s developed a mysterious ecu issue and hasn’t seen an oil change in 30,000 miles 
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Jul 31, 2019 14:30
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Managed to catch some and it’s clear as a mountain stream - definitely AC. Ran it for a bit on a slope w/ heater on max as a poor mans bleed - I’ve not got a clue where the bleed points are and google hasn’t been helpful so far. Taking it on a hour and a half run right now and if it’s fine after that I’ll call it good. I’ve got recovery if things deteriorate! I suspect there may be a slight leak at the expansion tank - which would explain how it was low in the first place. Edit: Engine is pretty jammed in - it’s a 1.6 litre turbo diesel in a wee hatch - so I can’t check hoses easily but aside from the AC and a wee bit at the expansion tank it’s looks dry.
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Jul 31, 2019 15:42
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