AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Hey guys,

2012 Subaru Outback, 60k miles. It's a recent purchase so I am still figuring out what is normal. Over the last 4 weeks, I've noticed a drop in the antifreeze level. My best guess is that it dropped by the equivalent of one or two rice cups worth of liquid; nothing alarming, but measurable. I measured this when the engine was cold (outside temps were practically the same at each measurement), so I am certain it is actually dropping - not just thermal expansion. Would this be considered a seep, a leak, or is this normal? I don't recall ever having to refill the antifreeze in my 97 Sentra with 240k miles.

# ¿ Apr 11, 2015 18:55

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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 04:32

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Sentient Data posted:

Do you know if the seller did a fluid exchange immediately (as in less than like 20 miles) before selling the car? When you drain/refill the fluid, it takes a cycle or two of repressurizing (fully heating) the coolant system to force the last of the air out of all the hoses

I don't know, but I doubt it as I bought it through a dealership and I don't see why they would go through the trouble of doing that given that it costs them $$$ and it's only recommended after 100k miles.

# ¿ Apr 11, 2015 19:11

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Godholio posted:

I would just keep an eye on it for a while. If it continues, I'd do an oil change and see if the oil looks off (even if that's where the coolant is going I'm not sure there's enough to see it yet). Maybe pick up some white butcher paper to lay under the car (use bricks or something to hold it in place) to see if there's a slow drip you're just not seeing. It should stain white paper even if it dries before you check.

Will do, thank you.

# ¿ Apr 11, 2015 20:08

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

I didn't see a tire/wheel thread, so I thought I could post this here.

I am contemplating one or two (definitely no more than five) winter trips into snowy regions (Yosemite area). But since I live in Santa Barbara, 99% of my trips don't need winter tires. In addition, I don't have enough space in my place to store these winter tires for potential trips next year. Is there a middle ground? Will a tire store allow me to 'rent' the snow tires for a month? Or am I better off buying the tires and then selling them once my trips are over?

# ¿ Nov 26, 2015 20:46

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Godholio posted:

It depends. What kind of vehicle, are you going to be sticking to urban/maintained road areas or going off-road, that kind of stuff.

If you're sticking to the towns and highways, I wouldn't bother with winter tires at all. I mean, how strong is the resale market in Santa Barbara for snow tires? Chains are a good backup plan, and a lot cheaper. If you buy them from Les Schwab and don't use them, they'll buy the chains back at the end of the season.

2012 Subaru Outback with Continental ProContact GX currently installed (came with car). I will stick to paved roads, but I don't know how well they will be maintained. There are plenty of road closures in Yosemite/Sequoia each winter, and we are expecting above average precipitation this year. Tire chains is a no-brainer. Any recommendations?

# ¿ Nov 26, 2015 21:34

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Ozmiander posted:

If you get in to something that requires chains to get out of, you're better off calling AAA.

My parents used to drive with chains all the time, and they never got into an accident. Granted, they were surrounded by better drivers (Europe). I would probably limit the use of chains to turning the gently caress around.

# ¿ Nov 26, 2015 22:05

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

CA goon here with my first traffic ticket. Luckily I have the option to attend traffic school. The 'internet course' option sounds the most convenient, but there are literally 835 different DMV-approved 'schools' to chose from. Is it save to assume that they are all equally good/lovely?

# ¿ Jun 14, 2016 04:30

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

H110Hawk posted:

If you're good with computers some schools have the 8 hour timer based solely in your browser.

I do. *ralph_cat.jpg*

# ¿ Jun 14, 2016 17:50

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

CA goon here. I got a speeding ticket a while ago, did online traffic school two weeks ago, and I am now waiting for the traffic school to submit the info to the court. The court web page still shows no record of my traffic school completion. The thing is that the ticket used the wrong spelling of my name, while I used the correct spelling when I did traffic school. I may have also missed the two leading characters on the ticket docket number.

I've emailed the traffic school but I haven't heard back from them. Should I bother bugging the court with this, or is the traffic school the right place to rectify this issue? I still have ~3 weeks to fix this.

# ¿ Jul 1, 2016 20:16

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Enourmo posted:

IANAL but if the error is with the court you need to fix it with them.

Alright, I'll give them a call.

# ¿ Jul 1, 2016 21:44

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

2012 Subaru Outback, 75k miles.

Between once a week and once a month, I hear a strange noise when I start my car. The sound sounds like the sound when you start your car even though the car is already running. Is it possible that I hold the key in the 'Start' position for too long or is this something else (serious/benign)?

# ¿ Dec 4, 2016 01:28

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Deteriorata posted:

That's usually a sign that the bendix is sticking (the mechanism to kick the starter gear off the flywheel when the engine starts). Probably going to need a new starter. I don't know if it can be replaced/rehabbed independently.

Given how rarely this happens, how do I convince the dealership that this is indeed happening? I'm asking because I still have time left on my warranty and this would qualify for warranty repair.

# ¿ Dec 4, 2016 01:41

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Motronic posted:

Start by telling them it is happening. See what they say.

This is not an uncommon issue.

Alright. The car needs some recall work done anyway, so I'll bring it up then.

# ¿ Dec 4, 2016 01:48

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

2012 Subaru outback. I feel shaking when I break going downhill. Google suggests warped rotors. Is this pretty much it, or are there other potential culprits?

# ¿ Apr 15, 2017 00:46

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Deteriorata posted:

Vibration under braking is a warped rotor 90% of the time. There's not a lot else that will vibrate specifically while braking - most other stuff vibrates at a specific speed or all the time or other situations.

Thanks. I'll drop it off at the mechanic on Tuesday.

# ¿ Apr 15, 2017 01:33

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

2012 Subaru Outback, 81k miles. Is there an easy DIY fix for belt/pulley noise? I don't know exactly where it is originating, and I'm thinking of just leaving it with the mechanic.

# ¿ Oct 8, 2017 19:23

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

MrYenko posted:

All of these things.

Is it the original belt?

To the best of my knowledge, yes.

I'll just leave it with the mechanic as that block of text was over my head. I was hoping for a "apply lubricant at these spots"-kind of reply.

# ¿ Oct 8, 2017 20:57

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

DogonCrook posted:

Well theres anti sqeek poo poo for belts. Its a temporary gimmick fix but if you put it on and its still squeeking its probably not the belt. If it works you can probably just swap the belt.

If the squeaking were just a nuisance, I'd give it a try. But if there's a chance that expensive things could break, I better have somebody look at it.

# ¿ Oct 8, 2017 21:15

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Most car makers recommend replacing the serpentine belt anywhere from every 50-100k, so you're right at that mileage where it should be done soon anyway.

Owner's manual for my car recommends replacement every 100k... the original shredded at 101k.

That's exactly what it was, $90 cost in total. :chord:

# ¿ Oct 10, 2017 02:18

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Oh hi.

My 2012 Subaru Outback went through 3 low beam light bulbs in <6 months and I suspect that something is up. I was very careful to not touch the bulbs as I installed them. An ignorant inspection showed condensation on the inside of the headlights, so I am suspecting that that contributed? If so, (1) how do I clean this up and (2) how do I keep it dry in there?

# ¿ Sep 7, 2018 01:56

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

theHUNGERian posted:

Oh hi.

My 2012 Subaru Outback went through 3 low beam light bulbs in <6 months and I suspect that something is up. I was very careful to not touch the bulbs as I installed them. An ignorant inspection showed condensation on the inside of the headlights, so I am suspecting that that contributed? If so, (1) how do I clean this up and (2) how do I keep it dry in there?

Help.

# ¿ Sep 9, 2018 01:01

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

wesleywillis posted:

What bulbs were you using?

If the cause of the bulbs burning out IS the condensation, then you might have to just replace the light assembly. I don't know about your car. Some lights, like the one on my old Mazda were easy to replace, like 3 or four bolts and it practically falls out. My Corolla on the otherhand, I have to take the bumper and a bunch of other poo poo off to get them bitches out.

You might have success with dumping a bunch of glue/silicone caulking around the seam where the clear lens meets up with the reflector assembly. That is most likely where the leak is.
That might seal it off.

How to get rid of the condensation is a different story. If you can remove the light assembly, you could leave it sitting in the sun for a while? My lights have two bulbs. I'd probably remove both bulbs, and ram a shop vac hose up against one, and let it suck air in one hole and out the other, through the vac.

It seems like the sort of wacky thing that might work. Assuming the day isn't like 200000% humidity or something.

Sylvania Silverstar H7.

The annoying thing with the bulbs in this car is that you have to tilt the front wheels all the way in order to remove a cover so you can access/replace the bulb. Because heaven forbid you allow the owner to replace light bulbs through the engine. It's annoying as hell. Because of this contraption, it is next to impossible to inspect the backside of the assembly. Hell, I can't even have my hands up there and see at the same time that's how little room there is. I should probably just take it to my mechanic.

# ¿ Sep 9, 2018 03:00

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Godholio posted:

Check youtube/google and see if there's a video or description of how to do it. It might save you a trip to the shop...might not, but it's worth a look.

If you can get it out, you can try to dry the thing out with airflow as described, or throw a couple of desiccant packs in it for a couple of hours or something. There are a few ways to skin that cat.

Yeah, I've looked around, and on my Gen 4 Outback it would require removing the front bumper (2-3 hours in total for a first timer) and I'm not looking forward to doing that.

But I will try packing some desiccant packs in when I replace the bulbs and inspect/seal whatever seals are visible. Hopefully that will get me through the winter.

# ¿ Sep 9, 2018 04:43

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Godholio posted:

Don't leave them in there...I am not paying your bills if that poo poo catches fire or something.

Oh poo poo, thank you for pointing that out. I totally would have left them in there for a few months.

# ¿ Sep 9, 2018 06:06

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

0toShifty posted:

H7 bulbs have really short life in general.

Rated life of a basic H7 bulb is 270 hours.

Rated life of a silverstar or a silverstar ultra is 125 hours.

A more normal bulb on other cars - like the 9006 has a life of 1000 hours.

You can look at the reviews on Amazon for any kind of H7 bulb. You'll find Subaru and Mazda owners bitching about them on there. It's normal!

STR posted:

Additionally, if the bulb isn't shattering or deformed in some way, it's very unlikely to be the condensation causing it. Silverstars are short lived to begin with.

Thanks guys. I guess I'll just keep replacing them and make sure I always have a spare pair with me.

Edit: What's my best option for a bright, durable, and street legal H7 bulb if I were willing to sacrifice cost?

theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Sep 9, 2018

# ¿ Sep 9, 2018 16:50

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Is there a place online where one can buy vintage cars that have been modified (by competent people) to electric vehicles?

# ¿ Feb 18, 2019 01:07

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Motronic posted:

There is no market for this, at least not in spec vehicles (i.e. already completed).

So no. It's all by commission.

Alright, what does a conversion typically cost assuming I were to supply the car (let's assume a Volvo 240)? Is there any reading material explaining which cars are easy to modify and which ones are not? I'm assuming that weight is an important factor as it will impact driving range. Would an AWD pose additional challenges ($$$)?

Edit: And if I were interested in converting an older body into an electric daily driver, how would I go about adding safety features that older cars did not have?

theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Feb 18, 2019

# ¿ Feb 18, 2019 02:18

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

IOwnCalculus posted:

How much you got?

The cost of a conversion is wildly variable. Bawfuls is in the midst of one on a Z-car - without knowing how much money he has in it, I'd wager what he's done is probably about as low end as could be considered a realistic conversion, and he's doing most of the work himself. I don't think there are many corners to be cut from what he's done that wouldn't result in a significantly lesser vehicle.

Companies like Aston Martin are offering fully bespoke, reversible electric conversions of their classic cars. Those vehicles sell for well into six figures.

AWD could complicate things, depending on how you want to implement it. In theory you could just stick an electric motor in front of an otherwise-as-is AWD drivetrain and get it that way, at the expense of reduced range. Doing it the way Tesla does it, with separate front/rear drivetrains, would be extremely complex. Adding AWD to anything not already equipped with it, electric or not, would also be extremely complex.

Safety features like what? Traction control could be added as part of a drivetrain swap since that's a function of the powertrain controller. Antilock brakes, I'm sure some form of aftermarket system exists, but I would expect it to need an insane amount of tuning. Even moreso for stability control. Airbags, I wouldn't even entertain as an idea. Crash structure improvements are tricky since a lot of the modern safety cage mentality in vehicles depends on the presence of airbags and modern seatbelts to keep you from slamming into an ever-stronger A-pillar. You could theoretically cage a car, but then it's arguably more dangerous on the street if you aren't also using a five-point seatbelt, helmet, and firesuit to drive to the store.

Your low-hanging fruit, if the vehicle is old enough, is getting rid of things like roof-mounted rear view mirrors and non-collapsing steering columns / linkages.

If I had the car (a Volvo 240, or a Porsche 996, or maybe an MG), would $20k be anywhere near what is required for a professional to buy the parts and do all the work, or I would I get laughed out of the room?

I would probably have to insist on airbags, so that would rule out a bunch of older cars (pre-1980s).

I'm really just day dreaming at the moment. I've always had a soft spot for classic cars, but I could never own two cars, and I could never own a gas guzzler. The comment about AWD was in reference to modifying my existing car (a 2012 Outback) which has AWD. Not only that, but it is also much heavier, so the range would be greatly reduced.

# ¿ Feb 18, 2019 03:33

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Safety Dance posted:

Try $120K. There aren't off-the-shelf drop-in EV replacements for most parts for most cars out there, so there's a lot of custom fabrication that goes into an EV conversion. Here's an example of pricing from a company that strikes me as competent.

http://www.eddymotorworks.com/pricing

Perfect. This is exactly what I needed to see to toss this idea from my head.

# ¿ Feb 18, 2019 04:35

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

IOwnCalculus posted:

... 240 would be the easiest to electrify ... Someone in Straya did it for $25K AUD and that's with $0 labor costs. Lot of good pics of the end result.

# ¿ Feb 18, 2019 20:34

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Is there a life hack that allows me to turn on the air pump at a gas station without having to beg the attendant for it?

# ¿ Nov 10, 2019 05:44

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Charles posted:

Don't trust the gauges on them, even if it's those Xact air digital ones. I had one go 4 psi low on it.

In California they're free if you're a customer, the attendant can just push a button.

Yeah, my electric pump's gauge reads vastly different values based on how you position the pump, so I don't trust it's reading at all.

Well, they are supposed to be free, but often aren't. I am a paying customer, but I am tired of having to bug the attendant. But I guess that's what I will do.

The Door Frame posted:

Quarters usually do it for me

Anybody who doesn't accept my credit card or paypal ain't getting my money.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2019 06:00

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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 04:32

theHUNGERian: Feb 23, 2006

Charles posted:

If you're in CA the law states there's a 1 800 you can call if they deny you!

http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/pub/99-00/bill/asm/ab_0501-0550/ab_531_bill_19990930_chaptered.html

I haven't lived there in a long time though.

Yeah, but I don't want to go on a whole side quest.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2019 06:51

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