|
My girlfriend's 2010 3.8 Gen Coupe with the 18" wheels is in need of some new rubber. I was thinking of either suggesting the Continental ExtremeContact DW or the Bridgestone Potenza RE760. The stock tire sizes are 225/45r18 and 245/45r18. Is there any reason to go with one over the other, aside from maybe going by if one is more affordable? The car won't see any extreme usage, mostly freeway and city roads; I haven't convinced her to take it to an autocross, yet.
|
#
¿
Jul 7, 2015 06:40
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 13:50 |
|
|
My girlfriend's 2010 3.8 Genesis Coupe needs to have the brake fluid flushed. Does anyone here know how to determine which adapter I need in order to use a Motive Power Bleeder with it-- without having to remove and measure the BMC cap?
|
|
#
¿
Dec 24, 2015 01:26
|
|
|
Uthor posted:Check the Motive website? Yeah, I read that, but like I said, I was hoping to avoid doing any guess work and measuring. I was able to find the adapter needed for my MS3 but the gen coupe forums don't make any mention of it for this car.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 25, 2015 04:49
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Coworker bought one off Craigslist sight unseen for maybe $700 Tapout stickers and rattle-can-black-matte paint job included. It had no oil on the dipstick 3 quarts in of whatever autozone had on sale for the cheapest, drove it for 2 weeks, then flipped it for a similar price. Do you even bother registering it at that point? I don't want to scam the system or get in trouble for not owing sales tax or something stupid, but it seems like those factors would make this idea more tedious to execute. That being said, I hate having to pay sales tax on a private sale, used vehicle because the idea of an item taxed over and over makes some weird libertarian-lizard part of my brain feel funny.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 28, 2015 09:00
|
|
|
Stupid question: One of the plastic gears in my rear driver side window motor got crunched and I'm getting in a replacement today, hopefully. There was a small amount of a white or cloudy grease in the little gear box. What grease should I be applying on this gear when I reassemble it? Preferably something I can pick up quickly at a local AutoZone/O'Reilly's. Thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3039682&pagenumber=134&perpage=40#post482064564
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2018 20:14
|
|
|
So juat to be safe, white lithium grease should be safe for plastics right?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 12, 2018 22:36
|
|
|
So what's the appropriate way to clean an engine bay and not gently caress up any electrics or get water in your spark plug recesses,, intake, etc?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2018 18:04
|
|
|
Does anyone here own a Hyudai Genesis Coupe or another similar vintage Hyundai? I'm trying to diagnose and fix a problem I noticed on my girlfriend's 2010 3.8 gen coupe. 99% of the time when we drive her car together, I M the one driving. Her AC never seemed to blow that cold, but over last summer I found driving her car in Central Texas to be miserable. To the point I was certain her AC had a leak and lost the refrigerant charge. This wound up causing arguments when I would say that it's blowing hot air and she would insist that it's cold enough/just fine. We finally realized we were both right, because on the passenger side, sure enough, the AC blew cold air. On the driverside it blew hot. I finally went and did some googling earlier this week and found that the HVAC blend motors are a common failure on late model Hyundais. I've even found d threads of gen coupe owners complaining about the problem, but no documented fix. It appears that replacing the blend motors shouldn't be that challenging of the HVAC system is similar to the Elantra and Santa Fe. However, I don't have an FSM for the car so I'm not sure if the blend motors is located on the driverside or passneger side. The car does not have dual zone AC, so I assume that there is only one. But, if it is blowing warm on one side and not both that makes me question if there are still separate motors. So, I come to you, AI, for advice on locating and replacing it
|
|
#
¿
Jan 10, 2019 21:55
|
|
|
Rare on an 80s manual or just rare in general? I think it was more a matter of trim, options. A manual truck is usually a very barebomes trim so would be less likely to have CC. My 95 240sx had factory cruise control, however. My brother had an early 2000s Corolla with a manual that didn't come with CC, but he added it on with Toyotas generic cruise control module that you'll find on most of their cars from that era. I think most modern manual transmission cars co e with CC standard. My MS3 and my brother's FiST both have it. Again, this may not be true on barebone fleet trucks.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 10, 2019 22:35
|
|
|
MetaJew posted:Does anyone here own a Hyudai Genesis Coupe or another similar vintage Hyundai? I'm trying to diagnose and fix a problem I noticed on my girlfriend's 2010 3.8 gen coupe. Sorry to be that guy, but bumping this question to the new page.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2019 22:04
|
|
|
Wrar posted:Can you find a copy of the factory service manual online? Generally speaking things like that would be best solved with that information. You could also blindly take apart the dash. I just found an FSM actually and was going to edit my post. Looks like a pretty easy job to access the part.  
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2019 23:20
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:MetaJew: Which side of the car do the refrigerant lines enter/exit the evaporator - passenger side? Yeah that is my fear-- that something is hosed in the refrigerant system itself. I believe the refrigerant lines on the Genesis enter on the passenger side. I am debating what to do. It's tempting to just try replacing the blend door actuator and see if that fixes the problem. If it doesn't I guess I could just take it into a local import auto shop and ask them to diagnose it if it's an issue with the refrigerant system. I don't think my girlfriend is really interested in keeping the car much longer or putting too much money into it, though. And, after helping my brother overhaul the entire AC on a 2001 Tacoma, I don't think I want to get into tearing apart the dash on the genesis. So it might be trade-in time. She tells me she wants a 2015+ Cayman (Which I selfishly wouldn't mind her getting, but I keep trying to impress on her that we will have to do a better job of keeping the maintenance up to date, and she actually has to tell me when something starts acting weird.) Thanks for the advice!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2019 00:26
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Not knowing that car's AC layout - it's entirely possible that it's got an evap on each side. Check the FSM for that. CTRL+F'ing through the FSM, it looks like there is just one evaporator: 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2019 01:11
|
|
|
Motronic posted:That's my take based on the diagram as well, but I'm going to guess there might be another blend door outside of that diagram for individual front temps (probably just something in the ductwork to the driver's side). It doesn't have dual zone temp controls. Can you elaborate?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2019 17:09
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Ohhhh, totally wrong assumption then. I'd definitely go with IOCs suggestion of getting someone to put a set of gauges on that thing to make sure you aren't chasing your tail around a low refrigerant problem. As previously mentioned, at 8-9 years it's pretty typical to have lost enough refrigerant through seals and barrier hoses to start having cooling problems. This doesn't mean your system is necessarily in need of repair, it's just an expected amount of refrigerant seep. It's worse on stuff with more joints/longer hoses so it's hard to say what is normal for any particular vehicle, but you're definitely in the age range where it wouldn't be surprising on a system that I'm assuming hasn't been touched since new. Appreciate the input! The car definitely has not had much maintenance other than me doing the oil changes. After having a performance shop gently caress up an alignment and ruin a set of tires, too I'm hesitant to go to many shops. There is one that's been around for 40+ years with good reviews that I'm probably going to take both her car and mine to get some diagnoses done though.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2019 19:40
|
|
|
Stupid question: is there an Audi thread? My gf is looking at buying a lowish mileage 2016 TTS to replace her 2010 3.8 Gen Coupe. We're going to check it out this weekend and we'll probably do a PPI but I'm wondering if any goons have a similar vintage Mk3 TTS. The virtual cockpit looks great, the seats look supportive, and fold down seats and a hatch seem good. She was also pining for a 982 Cayman, but she loves the color of this one and it seems like it might be a more practical DD. No idea how reliability or build quality compares. I've only driven a 2006ish Boxster and was really put off at the cheap interior and melting, sticky buttons on the radio.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 15, 2019 00:30
|
|
|
Crossposting from the Audi thread: Can someone help me quickly diagnose the severity of this light? My girlfriend just called me and told me this "min oil" light came on while she was driving home. Edit: She states that the light came on when she was about half way home and the engine was warm. It did not alert when the car was cold. She drove it all the way home and sent me these photos. I interpreted these lights, as she described them, while driving, that the engine hasn't lost all of the oil so this hopefully isn't one of those "catastrophic failure"/idiot lights, but I'm not all that familiar with Audis. The car is a 2016 TTS. What oil brand/weight should I top the car up with? It's still under warranty. Should we schedule a service visit for this, after topping it up?  
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2019 06:48
|
|
|
Scionix posted:oh I would definitely be paying a shop to do it. I am a weiner. It sounds like you're in Austin: what shop are you using? I've been looking for a mechanic to go to for work I don't think I can tackle myself. I've had a few bad experiences with Soul Speed, so I don't think I'll be using them again. I just rented a 2016 ND miata on Turo in LA, and being fairly tall, I wish I could've sat farther back from the steering wheel to have more leg room when operating the clutch. I fullly support your endeavor. I have a 2009 MS3 that I wish I could get a few more inches of extension out of the steering column. But I think from the bit of research I did, people were having spacers machined to go between the column and the wheel to extend the wheel. ryanrs posted:Yeah, I found the TSB after I had posted. I went and bought a quart of Castrol Edge 5w-40 (VW502.00 compliant) and topped up her car. There doesn't appear to be a digital display of oil level, after i messed with the "Virtual Cockpit" display menus for a few minutes. fortunately there's a traditional dipstick. The oil level on the dipstick was a little below the hash marks. Half a quart brought it up to "Min" and the remainder of the quart brought it up to halfway in the hash marks. So, I guess it was 1-1.5 qts low. She's scheduled for her next maintenance in 100 days according to the computer. I'll keep an eye on the level, and if it appears to be using oil excessively or if the warning light comes on I'll get her to take the car into the dealership. Since it was CPO'd I presume that these sort of issues should be covered under the warranty and maintenance package she bought. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 20:35 on May 21, 2019 |
|
#
¿
May 21, 2019 20:32
|
|
|
Scionix posted:These guys: http://www.automotive-specialist.com/ The driving position you're describing is probably the most comfortable to me, as well. On my MS3, in order to have my legs a comfortable distance from the pedals, I have to sit fairly far back, but then my arms are much more extended, instead of having a bend in my elbows. For long-ish drives this results in having to engage my shoulders a lot more and I wind up being very uncomfortable/sore later on. I haven't looked into a spacer too much for my car, but everytime I think about it, I wonder if it will, in anyway, hinder the steering wheel controls, which I don't want to lose.
|
|
#
¿
May 21, 2019 22:58
|
|
|
Scionix posted:Heyo, just wanted to follow up on this because Soul Speed is the only shop I've found willing to take on my steering column swap. Do you think you could elaborate on what problems you had with them? Feel free to just PM me instead of cluttering the thread. I don't have plat. I guess I've been here long enough that I should buy it... My girlfriend had a 2010 Hyundai 3.8 Gen Coupe. At some point while owning it, I would notice that the car would not track straight on smooth payment. It always pulled to the right and she was getting some uneven tire wear. We arranged to have Soulspeed do an alignment and brake fluid flush for something like $190, maybe? I don't recall the price, but it seemed reasonable enough. We pick up the car and sure enough the brake pedal is very firm and the car tracks straight. She may have just gotten new tires, too. I don't recall exactly, but for staggered 18" wheels, I think that ran her somewhere around ~$800. This was around the time they had ground up MoPac north of the river so it was all chewed up and your tires would track in the ruts they had. At some point, within a month of the alignment, I started noticing that the car felt very twitchy, when going over bumps-- it would want to suddenly pull to one side or the other. I wasn't driving her car too often, and she is stubborn, but I told her we probably need to get it checked out and she kind of dismissed it. I took the initiative to call SoulSpeed and ask them to look at the car and make sure their alignment was still in spec because the way the car was behaving worried me and I thought she might get into an accident if she's not careful. They eventually give me a date to come in, probably two weeks after initiating a conversation with them and telling them the car felt unsafe. The redo the alignment, call me to come pick up the car and then tell me that they had failed to torque one of adjustment bolts correctly in the rear suspension so there was something physically loose in the rear end that was causing the rear wheel to maybe gain a lot of toe in/out or maybe go from negative to positive camber ( I don't recall) as the suspension moved within the normal range, making the car very unstable. They did not bill us to redo the alignment and fix their mistake, but by this time the hosed up alignment had caused her to chew through the rear tire or get some extremely uneven wear and she had to replace at least a pair of tires, again. I should've tried to get them to compensate us for that expense, but I didn't really know how to approach it and my girlfriend is not very proactive or aggressive with auto maintenance. I just found this sort of lapse in service appalling given that their garage was full of Ferraris, Cayman GT4s, and other very expensive cars-- Surely they would be careful not to make this sort of mistake on an exotic with an owner that probably knows a good lawyer... Anecdote 2 My friend tends to go the route of buying tires from TireRack and having Soul Speed mount them. He followed their instructions of having the tires shipped to their shop. The tracking number indicates the tires were delivered, but the shop happened to be closed for some holiday. He called them several times to arrange to have the tires mounted and they were slow to answer. He told them they had his tires, and SoulSpeed at least for a while denied ever receiving them. He eventually got them to mount the tires, but it required entirely too much effort on his part. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 07:53 on May 29, 2019 |
|
#
¿
May 29, 2019 07:49
|
|
|
No idea on the tire cost front. I think she got some Michelin all seasons or summers, and then other fees and road hazard warranty from discount tire adds up. It's been a few years since then. Now she has a 2016 TTS with 20" wheels. Tires for that seem very $$$.
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 16:03 on May 29, 2019 |
|
#
¿
May 29, 2019 15:56
|
|
|
Stupid question that I don't know how to google the answer for: My mom has a 2016 Subaru Crosstrek and she often will use the built in bluetooth hands-free calling. She claims call quality on her side is fine, and phone calls between our two phones is excellent with HD Voice calls. However, on my end of the phone when she is making a call over bluetooth, the audio quality is terrible. It's often garbled, there are lots of glitches, and other noise in the call. I've tried to debug this with her-- hypothesizing that maybe the speakers in her car are turned up too loud, so I'm hearing an echo of my own voice. That doesn't appear to be the case. What else could be calling this? I imagine she has her phone plugged into a cigarette lighter charger, but I've never heard of audio being garbled from a ground loop (that's more of a wired audio issue). Are there some firmware updates or other things that she might try to get the service center to do when she takes the car in, next?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2019 04:25
|
|
|
I don't think so, but I can ask her to try that.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2019 05:38
|
|
|
Stupid house related car question. I have a barely-two-car garage with basically 8ft ceilings. There's maybe a 12-18 inches of space from the edge of the garage door to the exterior wall on either side. I have no idea how to plan an organization scheme or figure out what sorts of shelving would be the best use of space without making it difficult to actually fit two cars in the garage. Since the ceiling is so low I can't do one of those hanging racks, either. I also want to install a ton of led tube lights on the ceiling so I'm not wrenching in the dark. Please help me find resources for sprucing up and organizing my car hole. Garage Journal is just full of millionaires in the Midwest with 2,000 sq ft workshops and it's depressing
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2019 21:00
|
|
|
Two car wide door with the motor mounted above, along the center of the ceiling. I wish I had gone for one of the motors that mounts on the side of the door when I replaced it, but it didn't cross my mind until after. There's not a huge amount of space between the ceiling and the door. I'll have to measure it when I get home.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2019 21:47
|
|
|
Yeah it's a multi panel door. I'll get out the measuring tape tonight. I was just under the assumption that those ceiling racks needed a few feet of space.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2019 22:20
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:Line the walls with shelving. A couple rows, with the lowest shelf high enough to clear the fenders of the car. Put a fold-up workbench along one wall. IOwnCalculus posted:I have two Hylofts, depending on size they list the minimum clear height as 15-17", but worst case there's no reason you couldn't cut the vertical bars down and install it even closer to the ceiling. Of course the closer to the ceiling it is the less useful it is. They're pretty decent for storing poo poo I never use but don't want to throw away, like the stands for my wallmounted TVs / monitors. Autoexec.bat posted:I have a similar arrangement, my garage has 7.5ft ish ceilings too short to fit our truck (opener required special low pivot hinges to not hit the ceiling after we added sheetrock) with about 18" on one side and 12" ish on the other. 2 support poles about a foot from one wall, has 3 regular doors on the sides and is a bit deeper than it is wide. We ended up going with cabinets/toolboxes/etc in front of one car and tucked the other in really tight against the 12" side and installing wall-mount shelves against the opposite side leaving a gap to open the pass. door. What you can do also depends where your interior door is and how much stuff you want to fit. fknlo posted:You probably have more room than you think provided you park properly. A second person can get in/out outside the garage. I won't be able to respond to all of these adequately, but here's a lovely sketchup drawing I just made. Hopefully the dimensions are visible. The entry door into the house is on the back wall, straight down the middle. Currently I have a big stacked tool chest to the right of the door as you walk into the garage. I have a little workbench to the left, covered in junk, and then some lovely shelving that the PO left on the walls that don't feel very useful or deep. I need to do a lot of cleaning up and organizing. I have my MS3, an SV650, kendon standing/folding trailer against the wall, and a contactor table saw and miter saw (both on mobile stands) taking up the other half of the garage. The saws, I will probably move to my shed. I need to order some sort of shelving to put lumber up on the walls of the shed and get that organized too. I will eventually either need to clean out the garage enough for a TTS to fit next to my car, or I will probably be parking my car outside when my gf moves in with me. I have 12.5" on either side of the garage door. In that nook on the right, there is a closet for the HVAC plenum and hot water heater with a pair of double doors that I cannot block . When the garage door is open, the clearance to the ceiling is about 7.5", so I don't think any ceiling shelves over the door are worthwhile.  My vision was to build some sort of workbench that would go along the wall to the left of the entry door and run that to the corner. I'm not sure if that will happen or if I'll just try to buy something that fits the space. Edit: found a picture of the garage. The sheet goods rack on the right is now organized and pushed up against the wall. It's about 18" deep and i have my passenger side tire almost touching it. I just finished a kitchen remodel, so i have a bunch of poo poo I need to figure out what to do with. Either return some extra trim to Ikea or donate it or store it in the shed. 
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Jul 2, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2019 06:37
|
|
|
The best thing to do would take it to a shop that can remove any remaining refrigerant, apply a vacuum, make sure there are no leaks, and then refill with oil and refrigerant. If you try refilling it yourself you will have no idea how much refrigerant is actually in the system.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2019 21:34
|
|
|
Yeah a lot of consolidation needs to happen. The tool chest barely fits on the raised portion of the slab, and I have to roll it one way or another to access the breaker box or the HVAC closet. I wish a three car garage house in Austin was affordable. This house was a fixer upper, and a good value for the location, but it is lacking in several areas. MetaJew fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Jul 2, 2019 |
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2019 22:46
|
|
|
Clogged drain line for the AC evaporator core, possibly?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 9, 2019 22:42
|
|
|
For a while I struggled with lovely headlights in my KTM super Moto. I found a shop selling a higher wattage bulb that sure enough was brighter ... except the bike was a paintshaker and the filament in the bulb snapped on me two or three times in a few hundred miles of riding, at most.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 31, 2019 22:43
|
|
|
Stupid battery question. My car battery died on me while I was out of town. Jump started it with my battery pack and drove to AutoZone to buy a new one. The dead battery was a Duralast Gold 5 year warranty battery. Now that I check my maintenance log, it looks like I replaced it on September 26, 2015. I bought another Duralast Gold, thinking that my current one was well out of warranty. The guy refunded my core charge and I left. Now that I see that I had some more warranty left over is there some way I could go back and get a bit of a refund or would I have to find the 4 year old receipt?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2019 17:26
|
|
|
shortspecialbus posted:Call the store and ask them, there isn't a universal answer for this. It would help you a lot if you had the receipt, though. I think this is one of those receipts I should have filed away. I'll try to find it.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 9, 2019 18:25
|
|
|
DrBouvenstein posted:My 2008 Mazda 3 is making a weird "clunking" noise if I hit any sort of pothole, speed bump, or really anything that's not 100$% perfectly smooth road: I've been going through clunks and refreshing parts of my suspension. I had a clunk in the rear that I can blame partly on rear endlinks and rear struts. I just replaced the front struts, strut top hats, strut bearings, and endlinks. I still get a clunk when backing out from my driveway at an angle that could be caused by the LCA bushings failing. Those are a few ideas for you to consider.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2019 18:53
|
|
|
Sanity check that your passenger side motor mount hasn't exploded.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 18, 2019 21:44
|
|
|
If you DIY the rear endlinks, use OEM or OEM style that have an Allen keyed bolt. Do not go with the greasable Moog variety. They are a loving pain in the rear end to install, and you need to grease them pretty regularly or they will clunk.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 19, 2019 18:38
|
|
|
simplefish posted:Does anyone have a good suggestion of where to put stupid small questions (like this thread was for) when the forums get closed? Is there an AI discord and can I get PMd or emailed an invite? My username at Gmail.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2020 17:09
|
|
|
Thank you.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2020 17:46
|
|
|
Can anyone recommend an OBDII reader/diagnostic tool? I'm getting a p0442/ CEL on my 2009 Mazdaspeed3 which I think is still related to my evap system. I've replaced the gas cap, and at one point the CEL cleared itself, but it came back not much later. The three times I've noticed the light coming on, I am right at ~1/4 full on the fuel gauge. I suspect to properly diagnose it, I will need to find a shop to do a smoke test for me. However, if any of the OBDII tools will allow you to manipulate the evap system solenoids and things, possibly I could do a diagnosis myself.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 10, 2021 23:47
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 13:50 |
|
|
opengl128 posted:Bidirectional/OEM controls quickly get you into no thank you kind of money for scantools. Interesting, Forscan might be able to do it-- but then do I want to try and self diagnose? I'm not sure.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 11, 2021 00:55
|
|