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Sagebrush posted:I've seen the key removal latch thingy in pickups with manual transmissions (e.g.: I was thinking about it because I was driving a friend's 1996 Ranger that had it) but that's it. My old 1997 Escort wagon didn't have it, nor did my 1994 MX-3, nor my 2002 ZX2, and all of those had 5-speeds. My 2000 Mustang had the push button on the ignition. 5 speed. Not sure why, but it was there. I want to say the old late 80s Ranger I learned stick on had it too, but I can't be certain.
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Jul 27, 2016 22:51
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So I picked up an LQ4 but it didn't come with any of the wiring harness. Stupid question is this: am I able to pick up a harness from any Gen III SBC or does it have to specifically be from an LQ? The mechanicals are loving Lego, but I don't know how much interchangeability there is for the electricals.
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Jul 29, 2016 14:56
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Christobevii3 posted:Should be any 4.8, 5.3, or 6.0 harness. Any minor variations in connection could be changed easily if you need to. This is for a vehicle that had a lsx motor? Cool. That's kinda what I figured. And no, the car did not originally have an LS.
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Jul 29, 2016 15:53
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Christobevii3 posted:You might see if you can get a stand alone harness for your needs then depending how much you look to spend. Current performance does those or can factory connect to s10 or Colorado trucks. Yeah, I've seen a few companies that offer reworked harnesses ready to plug into an ECU and roll but those tend to be pretty spendy. If I can save a few bucks by picking up a factory harness and reworking that, then all the better. I haven't heard of Current so I might reach out to them to see what they suggest for my situation. Thanks!
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Jul 29, 2016 17:37
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Raluek posted:I'm sure you've checked there too, but the LS1tech forums have some users/sponsors that also offer standalone harnesses. I dunno how prices compare to getting one locally and doing it yourself; depending on how available the stock ones are where you are, it could either be competitive or outrageous. I've poked around over there a little bit, but not really for harnesses. I'll have to go wade in and see what they have.
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Jul 29, 2016 21:26
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88h88 posted:Whiteboard marker if you want to measure, a line of masking tape in whatever size you want the decal off the door bottom if you don't. Masking tape was going to be my suggestion. Should help to keep things even if you have a curve in the door as well.
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Aug 18, 2016 17:05
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Kommienzuspadt posted:Alright, awesome. I'll order the pads and rotors online. Unless you do something very very wrong, you shouldn't have to do any bleeding. Something to be aware of, however, is that you'll need to push the pistons back into the calipers to get the new pads to fit. You can do this with a C clamp and one of the old pads. You may need to crack the master cylinder reservoir cap to allow room to push the piston back in, but maybe not.
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Aug 22, 2016 20:04
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JibbaJabberwocky posted:So let's just assume I don't know poo poo about cars, because I essentially don't. My husband drives a 2001 Toyota Camry and it's chugging along okay though it's obviously old as poo poo. I took it by to get looked at today because he hadn't had an oil change or any maintenance in a pretty long while. If the tires really are bad, please get new ones. It's hazardous to not only the person driving the car but also to everyone around the car while it's moving. If necessary, the engine mount can probably wait, but if it's bad enough to cause severe engine movement you're probably going to see other stuff needing replaced soon-ish because of that.
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Sep 7, 2016 20:25
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Magnetic North posted:Just removing the interior. And what you describe was the plan. My confusion is that between prying the clips and peeling the vapor barrier, I have the panel still attached by that little light. I don't know if it disconnects somewhere somehow. None of the videos reference it and my websearching has found people talking about 'popping it out' but no one explains how. I'm guessing the little courtesy light has a removable cover. If you pop that cover off, there's probably a screw in there that has to come out.
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Sep 16, 2016 16:38
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TremorX posted:Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so, what part(s) I might need. I would have said actuator for the passenger door, but all the added stuff kinda throws that away. It may be a coincidence, but ehhh... Very weird that the back ones won't even lock manually.
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Sep 16, 2016 22:14
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Ciaphas posted:Just got done with Frank's Auto Body. They're standing behind their work and covering the bill at the Mazda service desk for me. Wow, that kicks rear end. Good on Frank for standing up for his poo poo.
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Sep 21, 2016 22:30
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(missed work aside, but nothing doing about that)
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DrakeriderCa posted:My chebby has a (possible) problem: Get a longish stick or rod or something. Stick one end in your ear and touch the end to various surfaces while the engine's running. Watch out for moving parts. Should help to pinpoint where the sound is coming from at least. Yes I'm serious.
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Oct 18, 2016 04:00
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Seconding bleeding them again. Had the same thing with fresh pads and rotors on the stang. Bled them, still squishy. Bled them again the second day and they firmed up nice. Manual bleeding takes way too loving long...
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Oct 23, 2016 03:00
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Dagen H posted:I don't have an answer for you (automatic transmissions are black magic)...just want you to know you're not being ignored. Ditto. Autos are powered by the devil. Is there any kind of transmission-dedicated computer in the truck that can be tested? If the solenoids are new and the gears all actually work, it sounds like something's not sending the right signals to the trans.
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Nov 3, 2016 22:55
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Enourmo posted:There's always the nuclear option: That is some of the most metal poo poo I've seen. 
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Nov 13, 2016 03:35
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Dagen H posted:Don't worry about it. This. If you're super concerned about it, you can probably take it somewhere for a preemptive patch, but they might not even do anything if it hasn't actually pierced the tire.
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Nov 23, 2016 16:21
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The Door Frame posted:Any tips on how to remove rusted bolts where you can't get a torch in? My electric impact gun does nothing and a half can of liquid wrench has been sprayed in so far Leverage is king. I hear a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is the poo poo, so maybe try some of that for penetrant of you can. Hit it with the juice, tap on the bolt with something to kind of vibrate the poo poo in there, repeat a couple times, let her marinate overnight. Time comes, get a wrench on it and make that fucker as long as possible. Commence ta reefin'. Hammer on a smaller wrench/socket if necessary/possible.
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Dec 7, 2016 04:18
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The Door Frame posted:There we go, I knew it had something to do with ATF. Thank you I haven't used it myself, but I hear it's a creepy bastard. What kind of bolt are you dealing with here?
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Dec 7, 2016 04:45
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FCKGW posted:2008 Focus Auto, only one engine I think. Bad ignition switch or housing, haven't tested it yet, but likely the whole housing needs replacement. Good strategy for Rockauto: get part numbers there and check prices on amazon.
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Dec 9, 2016 04:12
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CharlieWhiskey posted:Geographically I'm totally in the same boat as you. I didn't realize studs were cool in that many states. Those poor bastards in the west side of the MI mitten could probably do with some with all the lake-effect bullshit they get. MN and northern WI is no joke either. Seeing that everything is illegal in IL and the roads are already mostly destroyed, seeing it gray doesn't really raise my eyebrows.
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Dec 15, 2016 15:35
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Platystemon posted:Do you have a higher‐res version where you can see what’s written on the pillar with the seat belt anchor? I will almost guarantee that text says 'AIRBAG'. Unfortunately, that pic really doesn't give us much.
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Dec 16, 2016 15:06
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Gaschat: Looking for ethanol-free gas? http://www.pure-gas.org/extensions/map.html. You can search by state on the main page, but that's not near as easy as the map. Closest one for me is about 25 miles away  .
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Jan 12, 2017 23:26
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Shooting Blanks posted:Fuel rail, $1700 for parts + labor, plus $700 in "various tuneups" (I'm sure it needs some of it, I only drive ~4k per year and while I keep up with brakes/oil/fluids, I'm sure I've forgotten something). It also definitely needs a new driver's window motor and/or regulator, which aren't cheap. 1700 for a new fuel rail? What kind of car is this?
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Jan 25, 2017 19:12
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A thousand times this.
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Feb 16, 2017 19:26
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The Ferret King posted:Preparing to do my first ever brake service on my 2007 Nissan Altima. I have some basic tools already but here's the shopping list I came up with from AutoZone. Anything obvious missing? Looks good but I'll echo IOC about the little bleeder kit. Shouldn't need that. Something you'll need to be aware of is having to push the pistons back into the calipers. On the fronts, you can usually do with with a larger C-clamp and one of the old pads. I don't know how it is on your car, but sometimes the rear pistons need to be turned back in. Haynes manuals and the like usually say you can turn them in with a pair of needle-nose pliers. I don't know if it's just my luck or the Fords I was working on, but I could never get it done with the pliers. Most places (like Autozone et al) will rent a tool that will make this job a hundred times easier.
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Feb 22, 2017 15:51
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two_beer_bishes posted:New York State is now failing car inspections based on window tint. What's the easiest/cheapest way to remove tint? I'm fine with buying a heat gun, but is there another preferred method? Did mine with a razor blade, windex, and paper towels. The ammonia in the windex reacts with the glue and turns it all goopy. I got really lucky with one and it pulled off in one big sheet but the second one put up a fight. Didn't take me that long, though.
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Apr 20, 2017 04:39
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Don't use a razor blade on the rear window if you want your rear defroster to ever work again. Oh, poo poo. Yeah, this. I just peeled mine off the side windows so I didn't really have any obstacles to go around or deal with. Even on flat windows, be careful with the blade. Don't just hack away at it or you're liable to scratch your poo poo. It's just a really thin scraping tool.
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Apr 20, 2017 14:00
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Hello if I need a specific part for my car and it is small and cheap is there a preferred website? Amazon's got 'em for 8 bucks.
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Apr 27, 2017 14:01
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Are the fasteners going through the head and then threading into the block or do the threads engage on both? If they just engage in the block, I would think that the torque specs should match the block (Gen 1).
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May 16, 2017 21:29
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eberbs posted:they go through the head and thread into the block. figure im gonna go with the hynes manual and go to 40 foot pounds. I'm no engineer, but it makes sense to me. I agree that 36 pounds plus a quarter turn has to be drat close to 40 as well.
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May 17, 2017 02:12
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Squashy Nipples posted:I broke the hood-popper wire on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra. Hood has been sticking, finally got stuck, wire broke pulling on lever. You can probably get a whole new assembly. I had to do it a while back on my Mustang. Got mine from RockAuto and it was fairly cheap. When you pull the old cable out, do yourself a favor and tie a string to the end first so you've got something to help fish the new cable back through.
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May 18, 2017 14:31
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^^^ That poo poo's pretty slick. Pander posted:I hear a quick "click" when I try to start it. No extended noises beyond that click. After trying, the electronics on the dash all light up. I expected there to be some sort of obvious error message (like battery issue, stop/start issue, etc) but it's a goddamn las vegas strip of lights that stay on. FWIW, if it's like my 2015 6, the dome light switch is right by the overhead glasses-holder and it's really easy to bump the rocker over to ON. That will cancel the normal dome-off-timer when the doors close. Definitely give it a couple minutes tonight with the jump and see what happens.
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May 30, 2017 19:55
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nitsuga posted:My mom Mitsu Outlander Sport needs some brake work, and I'm thinking it would be a good idea to bleed the brakes too. I plan on using my MityVac, as it's worked pretty good so far. Do I need to worry about anything with the ABS system? What about the order I bleed them in? You shouldn't have to worry about anything with the ABS, but do NOT let that reservoir run dry. That will turn your day lovely in a hurry. As far as order, start with the wheel that's furthest away and work your way back to the master cylinder.
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Jul 29, 2017 23:14
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've rarely had good luck with those. Pliers and a few spare fuses seems to work best for me. Yup. And wider-jawed pliers help, too. Think lineman's pliers or slip-joints. Needlenoses will probably just chew your poo poo up.
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Aug 6, 2017 22:47
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ROFLburger posted:Any recommendations for an online retailer that sells nuts and bolts? https://www.boltdepot.com/ Shipping can be a bear on smaller orders, but they have tons of poo poo.
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Aug 9, 2017 18:22
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TheChimney posted:While I was on a walk yesterday, I passed a car that had the badges "Toyota" and "2000 GT" parked on the curb. I remember hearing about these cars, and, after a quick google, discovered one auction off for $1.3M at auction... Did it look like this?  Because if so, you may have indeed just seen a unicorn.
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Sep 25, 2017 13:41
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DogonCrook posted:There's a miata conversion that looks really good for what it is. Im not sure which you would be more likely to run across. I've seen kits based on 240zs as well. Not many though. Quite the mystery.
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Sep 26, 2017 03:44
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Lectim posted:Hey, so I just bought my first truck, a 1967 Ford F-250. Have I made a huge mistake? Most old iron can be fixed with a combination of various hammers and a decent SAE socket set. Factory manuals are a drat good start. My Nova has 3 different ones so make sure you get everything you can. I know "GO!" is always the first thing you wanna do, but "stop" should be pretty high priority. Get it up in the air, get the wheels off, and make sure the brakes and wheel bearings are in good working order. I'm guessing it's probably drums on all four corners, so you may want to start doing a little research on those so you're not totally blown away once you get in there. No better way to learn than to get in there, so get to work! And make a thread.
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Oct 4, 2017 02:19
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Sometimes, the hardest part of replacing broken poo poo is just figuring out the part name.
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Oct 4, 2017 23:34
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Revvik posted:
Can't really tell from the picture, but is the axle right above the ball joint or is there a straight shot between upper and lower?
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Oct 26, 2017 02:36
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