|
With my August track day aka Race Wars fast approaching I Spent the day tearing down the brakes off the skyline components to see if they need any repairs and to paint them. One caliper has 2 of 4 dust boots ripped on the Pistons so a full rebuild is probably best course of action. Trying to find a complete kit with seals, shims and pins and clips is hard so might have to get it all individually. Rears look ok so will leave them as is and buy some rear HC800 pads. Wire wheeled and razored a bunch of old anti vibration/anti seize goop off the pads and shims. Same pad shape and size as my current calipers so I am just gonna drop the HC800s in when they get taken off the car. Didn't really do much prep for painting. Started masking lettering and said "gently caress this" and just cut a strip to size. Cleaned with prepsol and painted over existing paint as it wasn't in bad shape, just a bit of scuffing from sitting in a tub full of brake parts. Result:  Tomorrow I will be re-attaching the handbrake lever to the chassis (that was a fun find) and fixing my AC backlighting. To do list: -get Enkeis repaired for street tyres -refit fire extinguisher and mounting bracket -find cheap 1.5 way/helical diff -figure out if my wheel bearings are shot. Suspecting at least one on the drivers side is done after the "excursion" from last year. (Wowowowowow at 60kms and over) -steering rack bushes -semi slicks for Buddy Clubs. -get a workshop to fit brakes and flush/fill gearbox since it seems King Kong tightened the filler plug previously, and do most of that other stuff above because I am but one man. -Buy a decent GPS receiver for better time keeping. -cut sick lap times. This has been a boring post.
|
#
?
Jun 6, 2015 09:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 15:28 |
|
|
I miss my S13 coupe dearly. Installed a blacktop SR and 2-way diff and a bunch of other goodies but I'm in the states so it became impossible to keep it registered once I upgraded the maf/injectors/turbo (rich / crappy mail-order tune made it fail emissions). Now that I'm 10 years older with a poo poo job I'm considering reliving my "youth" by getting another, since they're soon to be emissions exempt. Going sideways was one of the few things that ever really put a smile on my face, and I was getting pretty good at it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 10, 2015 17:07
|
|
|
Human Grand Prix posted:We may have got a truck engine but we did get the "Onevia" from the factory    
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2015 03:33
|
|
|
The Onevia still looks dumpy as gently caress, Sil-80 looks much better.
|
|
#
?
Jun 11, 2015 21:45
|
|
|
Onevias arent as bad as S15 swapped fronts on either shape, however. S14 series II suits the hatchback body pretty nicely though. in fact the hatchback lends itself well to basically any front-swap because its not as boxy as the coupe. Question time: Torsen/Helical LSD from an S15 or do I just go straight baller and fork out $1200 for a Nismo 1.5 way mechanical LSD? I think the Helical would be easier to live with (remember this is a daily driver) and they are easier to find used. Given that they dont really wear out a use one isnt as much of a gamble, and I'd be putting it in to my existing diff case with the existing 4:1 crown and pinion gear.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2015 00:09
|
|
|
Laserface posted:Question time: Torsen/Helical LSD from an S15 or do I just go straight baller and fork out $1200 for a Nismo 1.5 way mechanical LSD? although the the Nismo isn't as aggressive as a Kaaz or ATS, I'd recommend the helical over the Nismo 1.5 if you're not taking the car to drift events. Depends on what you want to do. Helical is extremely FTW for the road but as I'm sure you are aware its torque biasing properties prevent it from ever trying to lock the output shafts to a single speed. Also if you have harsh winters then a helical diff is barely better than an open; a clutch diff and snow tires would give you wicked traction advantages. Puddin posted:The Onevia still looks dumpy as gently caress, Sil-80 looks much better. I loved my "onevia," I always thought USDM coupes were goofy looking until I lived with one for a few months. If you come from a part of the world where S13 coupes are called Silvias then good for you I guess, but I'll still take the reduced weight and added rigidity over cosmetic concerns any day Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Jun 12, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2015 14:01
|
|
|
Since its 100% JDM tyteness it has the Viscous LSD from factory. will I see much of an improvement? Australia has cold winters but no snow where I am. I have drive to the snow and up the mountain in it twice though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2015 15:12
|
|
|
Laserface posted:Since its 100% JDM tyteness it has the Viscous LSD from factory. will I see much of an improvement? In good health a VLSD takes a few rotations on one axle to start working significantly where the helical does its thing instantaneously. Some USDM cars came with a VLSD also and I've heard they can wear out to the point of being an open diff if the car is routinely beat on. If Nissan themselves went with a helical diff in the S15 then that's probably saying something, but you'd probably only ever notice a difference at the limit of traction. If they're inexpensive and you can do the work yourself then you're 9/10 buying a helical for it being bullet proof, not because it will dramatically change the characteristics of your VLSD equipped daily driver. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 16:47 on Jun 12, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 12, 2015 15:42
|
|
|
Laserface posted:Since its 100% JDM tyteness it has the Viscous LSD from factory. will I see much of an improvement? As a fellow 'strayan former 200,000km(?) 92 180sx owner, I can assure you that the VLSD will have worn out entirely, and if there is any improvement over an open centre at all, it'd be marginal. Fortunately we have a pretty amazing aftermarket supply for S1x's here, so you should be able to take your pick between clutch pack/helical in various forms etc. As the PB noted, it's about what you want to do with it. I only drove mine on the street and very rarely hard, and as such never bothered changing the diff. For drift/autox or track days I'd suggest doing something with the rear end for sure.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2015 01:30
|
|
|
Im leaning towards the helical because I don't give a gently caress about drift at all (outside of the occasional oversteer in the wet) and I want to keep the car street-liveable. A nismo would be cool but it's way too expensive and used basically don't exist.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2015 01:55
|
|
|
I'm pretty sure I remember when you bought this. Also pretty sure I still hate you as much now as I did then. In all seriousness, this is such a great car, I'm glad to see you back on it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2015 23:11
|
|
|
Shits been slow lately because I am lazy and I want to try and save some money. After painting the brakes I decided to replace the seals and dust boots. In hindsight I should have done this before spending $17 on a can of paint because the paint is now sorta hosed but I guess that just means I have to spend another $17 on a can of paint and do them again. All in all the seals didnt look too old but the missing/torn dust boots made me at least a little suspicious, and the process is simple enough to do. Glad I did as one piston took a whopping 90PSI to pop out (the others all did it well before the 50PSI cutoff on the compressor came in) How to get pistons out and not get brake fluid all over everything:  It sounds cool too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAdFPBQvne With the Piston out I can clean it up good and proper, such as removing all the paint I sprayed onto it and the decades-old anti-squel grease that had built up in them:  Cleaning the caliper and removing the old seals:  New Greased seal:  New dust boots. Found it much easier to leave the piston a few cm out, seat the seal on that first, then press it all the way home and seat the big end on the caliper. Of course, found this out on the second Caliper.   Next up I'll be buying some new rotors. the ones supplied were all about .1mm off being too far worn to use (28.1mm of a factory 30mm) so I guess thats why I was saving all that money  Still tossing up between a set of Semis (Federal RS-Rs or Nitto NT05s) or a helical diff + install. I want to retain my current final gear ratio so I would have to take the whole thing to my mechanic and have the ring gear swapped over and such which is tooooo much to deal with.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2015 09:54
|
|
|
Laserface posted:tooooo much to deal with. It's really not bad, if you can get the diff out of the car then you need only a sturdy / large enough workbench vice (with soft enough grips to not mar the new gearpack) to torque the new ring gear hardware (don't re-use the originals). And just keep track of the shims; whatever side they came out of, put them back on that side. Judging by what you've accomplished with your brakes, the differential should be easy if physically larger and heavier. If you want to know it's done right though then you could take it to your shop, but money seems to be tight and unless you specifically ask him to verify lash and runout he'll probably do the exact same things I suggested and charge you two hours of shop labor fees. also recommend new output shaft seals and you'll need a new cover seal too. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jul 12, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2015 16:23
|
|
|
Im not doing the brake install because gently caress bleeding brakes (and I dont trust myself to do a good job of it) I also noticed one of my track pads has uneven wear on it, probably due to the sticky piston in one of the calipers. Like, eye-ball noticably uneven, wasnt even really looking at it and noticed. easily half a cm or so. is that OK to use or can they be machined flat or replaced entirely?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 01:59
|
|
|
Laserface posted:gently caress bleeding brakes really?? That's like automotive 101 type stuff. If you can't get someone to help you then get speed bleeders so you can do it alone, just be careful you don't empty the reservoir and suck in air. I have a hand pump for my BMW that forces brake fluid through the system without the need to pump the pedal, it would work for any car if you could get a spare reservoir cap and modify it to accept the right fitting for the pump's line. Also If you've already got new rotors then get new pads and do it right, especially if one of them is suspect. I understand a shoestring budget but with brakes you dont want to cut corners, especially after taking the time to rebuild them properly. I like Hawk HP pads, they're decent for the street but really bite hard if you warm them up on a track day. Did you install the master cylinder from the donor car as well or are you still on the S13 MC? Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jul 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 16:35
|
|
|
Some cars have really dumb line designs and layouts that make it more difficult, but the hand pump factor might help you there.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2015 18:15
|
|
|
Pierced Bronson posted:really?? That's like automotive 101 type stuff. If you can't get someone to help you then get speed bleeders so you can do it alone, just be careful you don't empty the reservoir and suck in air. I have a hand pump for my BMW that forces brake fluid through the system without the need to pump the pedal, it would work for any car if you could get a spare reservoir cap and modify it to accept the right fitting for the pump's line. It might be Auto 101 but its also messy as gently caress and theres currently 3 cars between mine and getting into the garage to do it, in addition to a whole bunch of building materials and laborer gear as the backyard is being landscaped. Im making excuses, but I also need some hubs pressed out of the Skyline drums so they can be fitted to my hubs. I understand they are the same although the Skyline hubs have an extra mounting point for HICAS which my car doesnt have so I dont really want to put on a hub with an extra mount I Dont need. On top of that I need more poo poo done like a power steering leak fixed, new rack bushes and the handbrake assembly installed. its not much but more than I could do in a weekend in the garage and drive to work on Monday. I havent got new rotors yet. I might just use these ones first (get some value out of them) and buy new ones after. The street pads I use are safe to swap out with the track pads without machining (transfer materials dont clash) so I will probably just stick with what Ive got unless an un-even worn pad is a big worry. I have the BMC from an R34 GT-T. Currently its got an S15 BMC to match the brakes that are installed. I went through about 4 BMCs before the currently installed one due to fuckups and werid pedal feel, so for this upgrade I went for a slightly newer model in the hopes of getting a less-hosed one. R33 BMCs are hard to come by for some reason but the R34 is similar enough.
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 00:53
|
|
|
Laserface posted:messy as gently caress not with a catch bottle such as this also sorry for all the stuff in the way
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 14:03
|
|
|
Yeah I have been researching DIY stuff, are vacuum bleeders any good or is the best method still the brake pedal pump with a guy watching the tube technique?
|
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 14:08
|
|
|
the small hand-pump vacuum bleeders are a literal pain, at least my dad's is... Useful for some projects but you'll develop a cramp trying to bleed a brake system because they don't move thick fluid through tiny lines very well. Plus just moving the thing around a little bit while pumping will make the fittings want to come apart, especially when they get slippery with brake fluid. Before I got my power bleeder setup, I'd bleed my brakes with another person in the car to pump the pedal so I could watch the fluid coming out. I'd use some clear plastic tubing and a glass mason jar to catch the fluid and watch for air bubbles. Person 1 is at a corner, person 2 is in the car (starting at the wheel furthest from the reservoir, working your way to the closest) 1 - crack nipple 2 - one slow pump 1 - close nipple 2 - lift pedal repeat until fresh fluid comes out or air bubbles are evacuated. Keep an eye on the reservoir and top up so you don't suck in air and have to start over. Also pumping the brakes too quickly can compress the bubbles and cavitate the fluid into a frothy / hard to see through mess. The hardest part is with the bleed nipples themselves; people have a tendency to want to WAY loving OVERTIGHTEN them, and they're usually a softer composite material and you'll round the flats clean loving off trying to undo them. They only need to be snug. With a power bleeder, you build up a bunch of pressure and then go to a corner to catch what comes out, and close the nipple when you see clean fluid. easy. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 15:46 on Jul 14, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jul 14, 2015 15:36
|
|
|
Resprayed the brakes in the lowest effort method possible (cleaned with prepsol and a rag, sprayed over the top of the paint/grease that was left) meh. its brakes. Car is going into the shop tomorrow as my rear brake pads are 100% worn out after a fun little adventure through the areas best driving road with a bunch of bad rear end drifters.  My regular mechanic has packed up and no longer does auto work but my alignment guy does brakes and steering so after chatting with him hes happy to do all the work, get the alignment reset and give it a once over. ETA is Thursday. In the mean time I get to drive a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT from my dad. Drive by wire is awful.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2015 06:59
|
|
|
I haven't found anything better than a pressure bleed setup. You pressurized the BMC around 7-15psi and then walk to each cylinder (starting with the furthest), hook up the catch bottle, crack the nipple, and look for air bubbles, rinse and repeat. 30min for a perfect bleed, every time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2015 10:10
|
|
|
Laserface posted:In the mean time I get to drive a 2005 Subaru Legacy GT from my dad. Drive by wire is awful.
|
|
#
?
Jul 21, 2015 21:15
|
|
|
You cant fix my dads lost passion for cars with a reflash  he just bought a Kia Serato.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2015 00:51
|
|
|
Laserface posted:You cant fix my dads lost passion for cars with a reflash My dad used to drag race a 50's Chevy and now drives a purple 98' Caravan. I feel your pain 
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2015 06:15
|
|
|
Got the car back Yesterday. Brakes are definitely an improvement - the pedal doesnt feel as stiff but the brakes definitely have more modulation to them now. no more double-pumping to get peak brake pedal feel which is good also. I suspect one of the rotors is warped but they are too worn to machine flat. Steering rack bushes and the power steering leak were all a big improvement. the steering wheel actually sits straight when going straight for the first time in 8 years. Feels like it did before I destroyed the rear suspension on the first track day. Gearbox flushed and filled with Nulon fluid + PTFE additive and it doesnt hate going into third gear from the top of second any more! it also doesnt rattle and click and churn. first gear and reverse now engage much easier. Inspecting the old parts before listing them for sale and one of the rear wheel bearings was pretty hammered, although there is still a rotational noise in the rear at low speed. Not sure where this is coming from. Next up is some new rotors and then its Track Time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2015 08:08
|
|
|
I didnt do anything for like 4 weeks because in true AI fashion there was girlfriend problems and I was stricken with a case of sadbrains. I found the motivation this weekend to put on new rotors and put in the track pads. Along the way I fixed an oil leak from the Turbo drain line, changed the oil, put in new spark plugs and replaced passenger side splash guard in the front wheel well. Also got some odd jobs out of the way. bought some new washer jet nozzles, a new passenger window switch since I shorted out the old one and subsequently melted the switch. Concerns: -I put in 4L of oil last change. I took out 2. Hopefully it was just the leak. Magnetic sump plug was pretty dirty. went up to 15-50w because I figure its getting pretty tired and if I bash the limiter one more god drat time its going to turn this car around and never go to Disneyland. -Splash Guard rubs more than the hosed one I took out. -Tyres are already on the wear markers on the rear. fronts arent far off. Not even a year old. I might have to start getting re-aligned for street and track each time because the camber wear is heavy. And tomorrows forecast is rain. So I guess Im going to the track in a few weeks instead.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2015 00:00
|
|
|
re: brake bleeding chat the best way to do it with 2 people is to have the person in the car pump the pedal repeatedly to build some pressure in the system and hold the pedal down. Then you crack the bleeder and watch the fluid come spraying out (protip: catch cans are good). Lather rinse repeat until you have a solid pedal. Much easier and faster than the "open, pump, close, release" method.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2015 02:58
|
|
|
charliemonster42 posted:re: brake bleeding chat Bleeding brakes loving sucks btw.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2015 05:49
|
|
|
Yeah I didnt do it, the workshop did. brakes are good as gently caress now. I guess Im gonna either get a diff or semislicks in the next two weeks.
|
|
#
?
Aug 24, 2015 06:17
|
|
|
Anyone got any tips on how to diagnose why a brake pad is not touching the entire face of the rotor? its the outside edge so I am a little worried. boring but I put a new window switch in the passenger door after I shorted out the original by pulling it apart the wrong way. now the drivers side passenger switch works ALL The time instead of only after wiggling the passenger side one back and forth a few times!
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 12:07
|
|
|
Laserface posted:Anyone got any tips on how to diagnose why a brake pad is not touching the entire face of the rotor? its the outside edge so I am a little worried. got a picture? i find that when i swap my track pads and street pads, they only seem to touch the center of the rotor initially, then when i really get on the brakes they use the inside and outside, just might be a use/bedding in thing.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 19:36
|
|
|
Laserface posted:
Oh man even in the s15 the quality of the window switches were still dogshit. I think i went through about 6 seperate ones, the contacts would just eat themselves alive, and they hardly ever got used on the passenger side.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 20:38
|
|
|
crazzy posted:got a picture? i find that when i swap my track pads and street pads, they only seem to touch the center of the rotor initially, then when i really get on the brakes they use the inside and outside, just might be a use/bedding in thing. I figured as much. new rotors but same pads. They werent as unevenly worn as they appeared at first glance when I took them off the old calipers. They sure are noise though. I didnt really do a bedding procedure this time outside of a few hard stops to make sure they were working. They work good  Puddin posted:Oh man even in the s15 the quality of the window switches were still dogshit. Well mine was a result of taking the door car off to install new speakers. I had to disconnect the handle from the switch which I had done 100 times before, however I was presumably rushing as light was failing and rather than undo the clips holding the switch to the handle, I undid the clips holding the assembly together instead. Inside the assembly is a sliding switch that goes backwards and forwards, using 2 ball bearings as a pivot. They are resting on small springs, and when lifting the assembly apart, it sprung out and shorted the 'window down' terminals. it took about 2 seconds but it went glowing red hot, melted a bunch of the plastic and burnt a nice little dent into my hand when I 'oh gently caress'-ed and tried to shake it back into place like some kind of BB puzzle maze thing. after that any time you used the passenger window switch, it worked fine, but the drivers side passenger switch wouldnt work afterwards until you jimmied the passenger switch a bunch of times. And of course being a Type X there is a bunch of subtle cosmetic AND electrical differences that means I paid $55AUD for a switch.
|
|
#
?
Aug 31, 2015 23:58
|
|
|
Cutting it close to track day but Monday night will see me flushing and bleeding the radiator since there seems to be an airlock somewhere, replacing a silicone intake joiner that has been cut by the chassis and installing a sandwich plate for oil temp and oil pressure sensors courtesy of my new PBM Engine Vitals Digital Meter (Volts, Water/oil Temp, Oil Pressure) since I already have the Engine watchdog temp sensor installed on the radiator and was planning on using channel 2 on that for oil temp, I might put one of the blade sensors on the head somewhere while the EVDM sensors are straight oil related to keep things easy to read. Still looking for a set of 16" R32 GTR wheels so I can buy cheap RS3s but I made the ridiculous decision to move out of my parents house so money may be tight for a little while. I should probably start putting money aside for a respray too. More paint is flaking off the roof and I chipped the bumper doing some Park-by-Feel after some douche with a tow-bar parked within an inch of my car the other night. Perhaps the daily/Track car dream is out of reach.
|
|
#
?
Sep 3, 2015 03:23
|
|
|
The video of today does a better job of explaining how it went than I can. (beat my prev. best by .2) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=REhyRu7kDQg
|
|
#
?
Sep 8, 2015 13:27
|
|
|
Laserface posted:The video of today does a better job of explaining how it went than I can. (beat my prev. best by .2) Whee! looks like you're gonna need new valve guides or maybe just stems seals. But all in the name of fun, right?
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2015 21:01
|
|
|
Im thinking it could be the turbo. I bought it 'rebuilt' and it was all perfectly clean and had signs of being rebalanced and the like. doing some reading, it could be the seals though. Im moving house this weekend and so wont have any real time to pull the turbo out until the following week.
|
|
#
?
Sep 9, 2015 23:49
|
|
|
Found the source  Axial shaft play is measured in millimetres. In comparison the lovely t28 I originally bought has about .1mm axial shaft play. It's too bad it's rusted to gently caress and has had the exhaust wheel sitting exposed in the dirt for a year or I could swap housings and be on my way. Never buying a "rebuilt" second hand turbo again. 2 for 2 crapshoots. Have ordered a Garrett GTX2863R, a Z32 air flow meter and Nismo 740cc injectors. I really wanted to go external waste gate but at this size it's not worth the extra money to fab up and plumb in to the exhaust. I mean... if I'm gonna fix it...I may as well fix it, right?
|
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2015 13:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 25, 2024 15:28 |
|
|
Laserface posted:I mean... if I'm gonna fix it...I may as well fix it, right? Truly a lesson worth learning, especially regarding safety or high precision performance products. I had a GT2871R years ago on the stock header and even at 7psi (couldn't afford a tune for a while) the car felt better than with the stock T25, which I believe is the same as the later stock T28 just without the ball bearings? When you get your poo poo worked up to a safe 14-16psi you're going to have a lot of fun, but keep your eye on the color of your engine oil as it may start to turn black from blow-by faster and faster. I figured my engine for "healthy" as it was trouble free under 12psi for years, but as soon as I finally got my maf, 555's and a tune and I ran around in high boost all the time my piston rings started to give out. Pierced Bronson fucked around with this message at 15:13 on Sep 13, 2015 |
|
#
?
Sep 13, 2015 15:05
|
|