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Grizzled Patriarch posted:This is definitely good advice for sharp edges. On stuff like the line down the center of sword blades I could never get it to work though - the surface is just too broad / shallow and you either get an overly thick line or risk the tip of the brush marking up the blade. Might just need to practice it more, though. Yeah that's basically the part I hosed up on. Corners painted with the edge of the brush are easy.
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Feb 18, 2021 02:26
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Electric Hobo posted:This is cool as hell. BULBASAUR posted:Ace work Thanks Dudes AndyElusive posted:Related: I just got a message on Twitter from Nick that the Warhammer Community dudes are going to feature my Deathwatch Kill Team boys on their next weekly Hobby Roundup! Nice, my the are gonna run my goblin too.  Finished up this set of old 40k objectives:       
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Feb 18, 2021 05:31
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Is this a reference to Goldfinger cause that rules
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Feb 18, 2021 05:55
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signalnoise posted:Is this a reference to Goldfinger cause that rules I have no idea, but the numbers are molded into the piece.
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Feb 18, 2021 19:56
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Anyone who says "fancy brushes won't make you a better painter" is lying to you because they don't want to see you shine bright like a diamond. I just used my Raphaels for the first time today, and holy poo poo, it feels like I'm actually painting, instead of just moving paint around like a kindergartner. Granted, you gotta know how to use them and care for them, but the difference is night and day. I highly recommend anyone who is on the fence about it to just get one at the very least, and see what you can do with it. Take good care of it, and it will make your life so much better.
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Feb 19, 2021 02:55
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Do people typically varnish their stuff after they're done? From what I saw Testor's spray seems to be the go to but I don't know if its like something everyone does.
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Feb 19, 2021 04:05
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The Baumann posted:Do people typically varnish their stuff after they're done? From what I saw Testor's spray seems to be the go to but I don't know if its like something everyone does. If you plan on playing with them / handling them much, then definitely. Even if you don't, I would still recommend it. High-level competition painters usually don't do it because it can have some subtle effects on paint that they don't want after spending 500 hours stippling individual skin cells, but for everyone else there's basically no reason not to.
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Feb 19, 2021 04:09
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The Baumann posted:Do people typically varnish their stuff after they're done? From what I saw Testor's spray seems to be the go to but I don't know if its like something everyone does. I always do a gloss varnish for durability and then matte.
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Feb 19, 2021 05:57
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I like hitting everything with a matte varnish as it evens the finish across all the paints and brings everything together. For metal minis, gloss then matte for sure.
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Feb 19, 2021 07:16
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I use a brush-on matte varnish for minis, and Krylon spray matte varnish for terrain and stuff. I have a little bottle of Vallejo gloss varnish for stuff I want to look wet or shiny.
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Feb 19, 2021 11:17
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How badly does matte varnish kill the sheen on metallics?
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Feb 19, 2021 12:00
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Communist Walrus posted:How badly does matte varnish kill the sheen on metallics? It will dull it significantly. I prefer satin because it cuts a halfway but people also say satin is poo poo and that you should matte then gloss. Seems like a lot of trouble to me though I'm lazy.
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Feb 19, 2021 12:05
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Communist Walrus posted:How badly does matte varnish kill the sheen on metallics? It does dull it, but how much depends on the matte varnish tbh. I habitually give all my minis a coat of gloss (Halfords Clear Lacquer) and then a coat of Matte, and some brands of matte still leave something of a sheen. My current one is Plasticotes Matt Clear Sealer, and I would describe it as "matte as gently caress". It kills almost all sheen/shine, which is great on skin, cloth, wood, but not necessarily great on anything mainly made of non-corroded metal (robots or suits of armour). Sometimes I'm still happy enough with the result, but other times I go back in with a pot of brush on gloss varnish to gloss the metallics back up a little. Some robot/cyborg figures I didnt bother with the matte spray, just did the gloss and then went in with brush on matte varnish on anything I didnt want shiny (cloth banners and so on). I personally really like the super-matte effect on most stuff though, so I'm sticking with this brand even though a satin spray might be a better compromise.
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Feb 19, 2021 12:26
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Communist Walrus posted:How badly does matte varnish kill the sheen on metallics? If I want to preserve a metal sheen, then I'll do my metal highlights after varnish
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Feb 19, 2021 20:49
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Vallejo sells a metal varnish to go with their metal colour line but I haven't tried it out yet
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Feb 19, 2021 21:25
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Still far from perfect but my power sword/blade effect is getting better  
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Feb 20, 2021 01:01
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I'm rapidly coming to the conclusion that owning a 3d printer(s, plural, because I have like 2 FDM and 2 resin printers now : ) was a huge mistake when it comes to painting minis, because now my backlog of minis and terrain to print and paint is rivaling my Steam library's game backlog 
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Feb 20, 2021 01:53
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It's ok you can just send the extra
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Feb 20, 2021 01:56
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I like Vallejo's mecha color satin varnish for metallics. Can't speak to brushing it on, but out of an airbrush it doesn't kill the sheen at all. If you want *really* bright edge highlights then yeah I'd varnish it and then just do the final highlights on top of it - metallic paints seem more durable than regular ones so even for gaming pieces this seems to hold up well enough.
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Feb 20, 2021 04:52
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Need advice of how to give a very simple model (it's like a smooth as hell bean dude from among us) texture. There are guides for painting fur on smooth bodies so I am basically going to us these two source images to figure out what a atmos plastic suit would highlight like.   just wanted anyone to know if there is anyone that did anything similar before I start my own way of doing it via many thinned washes for the random highlight splotches.  Reverse zential priming (very slight) since the light will flood from the vent character is sitting in. EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 10:47 on Feb 20, 2021 |
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Feb 20, 2021 10:45
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Could maybe just do a gloss varnish on it. Something like Future floor finish that's crazy reflective.
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Feb 20, 2021 11:03
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There aren't any folds or anything to highlight. I'd maybe suggest checking out where the highlights fall on shiny pink latex balloons? If you're at all comfortable with non-metallic metals, it's basically that with shades of pink.
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Feb 20, 2021 12:03
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2nd group of my FOGN (Field of Glory Napoleonic (2nd edition)) army washed. (Close ups can be seen on my blog). I have washed the second group of my FOGN Anglo-Portuguese army. This time I used Army Painter Quickshade Wash Soft Tone. I agonized on which colour wash to do (or even paint on the Army Painter Quickshade Strong tone), but decided I wanted to keep as much colour as possible. The two on the right are washed, the two on the left are not.  A close up. Washed is right, unwashed left.  Only the 9 pounder in the bottom right is not washed here.  Left is washed, right is not washed.  The white horse needed the most work, to keep it going too brown. I still need to put some bushes down, paint the edges (think I'll go with a dark brown), varnish and then put the flags on. Or is put flags on and THEN varnish? Also, Army Painter says on their website for Reds and Blues to use STRONG tone, not SOFT tone. Which would you do for 18mm Napoleonic figures? Comstar fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Feb 20, 2021 |
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Feb 20, 2021 13:36
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What's FOGN? Google isn't being helpful.
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Feb 20, 2021 14:08
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NUMBER 1 FULCI FAN posted:What's FOGN? Google isn't being helpful. Field of Glory Napoleonic (2nd edition). The most popular Napoleonic game here in Melbourne at Clubs, so that's why I'm playing it and building an army for it.
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Feb 20, 2021 14:56
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Xposting from the 40K thread. I’ve still got to paint the rest of his weapon options but I’ve finished the most common configuration I’ll be running.   Definitely one of my favourite models so far.
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Feb 20, 2021 16:07
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Are there any blood effect paints that could be airbrushed without totally losing the effect? Toying around with some blood-soaked robe ideas and I want to figure out a way to make a relatively smooth gradient. Most blood paints are too viscous and probably won't take to thinning well, but I'm wondering if acrylic ink and maybe some gloss varnish mixed in would work. The ink is glossy enough to make convincing blood when it's brushed on, but it seems like airbrushing it almost completely kills the sheen for some reason.
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Feb 20, 2021 22:47
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Are there any blood effect paints that could be airbrushed without totally losing the effect? Toying around with some blood-soaked robe ideas and I want to figure out a way to make a relatively smooth gradient. Most blood paints are too viscous and probably won't take to thinning well, but I'm wondering if acrylic ink and maybe some gloss varnish mixed in would work. The ink is glossy enough to make convincing blood when it's brushed on, but it seems like airbrushing it almost completely kills the sheen for some reason. Perhaps you could hit the area with a gloss or satin varnish to bring back the sheen?
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Feb 20, 2021 23:02
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Are there any blood effect paints that could be airbrushed without totally losing the effect? Toying around with some blood-soaked robe ideas and I want to figure out a way to make a relatively smooth gradient. Most blood paints are too viscous and probably won't take to thinning well, but I'm wondering if acrylic ink and maybe some gloss varnish mixed in would work. The ink is glossy enough to make convincing blood when it's brushed on, but it seems like airbrushing it almost completely kills the sheen for some reason. Tamiya Clear Red might work
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Feb 20, 2021 23:07
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Both good ideas! I'd thought about using the Tamiya - for some reason I thought that it had been discontinued / almost impossible find because of covid but it looks like it's available most places again. I'll already be doing some oil washes anyway so I guess cleaning up some enamels wouldn't be much extra work. I'll probably try to mess around with some gloss varnish mixes too, just to see what I can figure out.
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Feb 20, 2021 23:21
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Tamiya is an alcohol based acrylic! you can thin/clean with IPA.
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Feb 20, 2021 23:25
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Oh wow, this whole time I thought it was an enamel, so that's even better!
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Feb 20, 2021 23:43
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Cross-post from the Infinity thread. Most of my painting lately has been based around contrast and glazes over zenithal primes. I still need to work on how sloppy it looks but I'm pretty happy with how the basing looks. Gonna try some tile grout + pigment powder for better sand later.  
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Feb 21, 2021 02:14
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PoptartsNinja posted:There aren't any folds or anything to highlight. I'd maybe suggest checking out where the highlights fall on shiny pink latex balloons? I haven't painted in a year (since coronavirus start) so I focused on this late Christmas gift to get it painted today in front of my niece. It was fun because I was showing her tricks to get effects in front of her of what highlights area, shading, and dry brushing. She was amazed at how I can drag an the edge of a brush across the edge of the bolts to make them look shiny and reflecting more. Showed her and her family very well why you also don't paint bright colors on grey primer too!   it's now on her Christmas keyboard I got her. Now you understand why the highlights were going to get reversed. Little spess man is coming for ya  Had her finish the model by doing a Dexter by blowing citadel blood from a brush onto the model.
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Feb 21, 2021 02:46
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EVIL Gibson posted:I haven't painted in a year (since coronavirus start) so I focused on this late Christmas gift to get it painted today in front of my niece. Thats a cool model, hands on the link for the 3d print?
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Feb 21, 2021 03:04
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w00tmonger posted:Thats a cool model, hands on the link for the 3d print? There are a lot of models of among us characters and the vent. I think this model was custom made and sold on Etsy. If you know how to do simple 3d modelling and the inclusions of a blank keycaps, you could make. I bought it because it was done in resin and I only have FDM.
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Feb 21, 2021 17:24
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Finished up my Iron Warriors Master of Possession. 
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Feb 22, 2021 04:51
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TotalHell posted:Finished up my Iron Warriors Master of Possession. Looks great, love the fade on the back of the robe. I think the Master of Possession looks like a great model, and while he isn't used in the Thousand Sons which is the main army I'm collecting, I'm sure I could find some conversion potential there. I was going to make a comment about how Iron Warriors wouldn't need a master of possession but then I remembered Daemon engines exist. I'll just imagine he and the Warpsmith are best bros, summoning daemons and shoving them into forgefiends.
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Feb 22, 2021 15:51
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Did a quick paint of a really fun but cheap model from Reaper. 
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Feb 22, 2021 16:05
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Werix posted:Looks great, love the fade on the back of the robe. I think the Master of Possession looks like a great model, and while he isn't used in the Thousand Sons which is the main army I'm collecting, I'm sure I could find some conversion potential there. Yeah, he’s basically there to cast Cursed Earth/Infernal Power as needed for my DEs. And thanks!
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Feb 22, 2021 16:06
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