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So I'm looking at buying, as the thread subject would suggest, a 1976 Plymouth Volare. I love the way it looks, but I'm unimpressed with the 318's anemic performance. So if and when I buy this beast, I'd want to change up some parts to help it perform a little more like a 60s car rather than a 70s car. I was wondering what the best course of action would be for that. I figure new carb, intake manifold, camshaft/lifters, and maybe swap out the fan for an electric, but is there anything else I can do to help it breathe easy and run better? The exhaust is new so I'd like to avoid replacing that if at all possible, and I don't have the means to do any machining, so this would be parts only. Also of course if I'm an idiot and something I mentioned would be a terrible idea, let me know about that, too.
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Apr 30, 2015 15:16
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 16:56 |
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Every Volare I ever rode in leaked transmission fluid like a spy hunter oil slick. Your heads and exhaust manifolds are probably your choke points. Junkyard cop 360 for $100 is probably your best bang for the buck parts source or just buy a 1985 cop diplomate for $1,000 instead of the Volare. .
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Apr 30, 2015 16:22
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It's a pretty light car, so typical "un-70's-ing" of the engine will liven it up. In order of ease: Intake and carb - edelbrock Performer or similar, holley or edelbrock 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb. Headers. You'll have to cut back the exhaust system to get them in there, but worth it. Cam, heads. There are now some awesome aluminum heads for that motor, with a cam swap, you'll make a bunch more power. What's the rear gear? That might be an early change as well - if you're just going to scoot around in this thing, and not make it some kind of daily driven commuter car, a change from the (likely) 2.xx gear to something like a 3.73 or 3.91 will make the biggest seat of the pants difference. Vo-LA-re! Ooo-a-oooo...
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Apr 30, 2015 16:22
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Did you find a rust-free example? The 1976 Aspen/Volare is infamous for rusting. My uncle was gonna give me a Volare but he realized that it would have been a cruel joke to play on his godson.
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Apr 30, 2015 16:36
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jhcain posted:It's a pretty light car, so typical "un-70's-ing" of the engine will liven it up. In order of ease: Headers I can do, I just don't want to have to replace the whole exhaust. New heads I'd have to save up for, but definitely a good idea. As for the rear, it's stock, dunno specifically what the ratio is. I want to keep it fairly comfortable to drive, as my boyfriend might have to take it to work sometimes. It has the 3 speed auto, btw. Neptr posted:Did you find a rust-free example? The 1976 Aspen/Volare is infamous for rusting. My uncle was gonna give me a Volare but he realized that it would have been a cruel joke to play on his godson. It has its fair share of rust, but the frame and important bits are pretty good. It has just over 40,000 miles on it, it was a barn find that the current owner fixed up and has been keeping in his garage.
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Apr 30, 2015 16:43
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Don't put 10 grand into a thousand dollar car. Apart from simple tune-up stuff, I personally wouldn't go any further than a cam, intake, timing set and carb. $150 - cam $50 - timing chain $250 - intake $300 - carb $250 - plugs/wires/distributor You'll have a grand into it over your purchase price, and if you ever want to move on you won't be "That guy" on craigslist using the word "invested"
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Apr 30, 2015 17:17
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Powershift posted:Don't put 10 grand into a thousand dollar car. Good thinking. The guy is asking over $3000 for it, it's worth a bit less than that but I'm willing to dicker. I want to keep my parts cost around $1000. Edit: How does a Holley 4160 Street carb with an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, and a Mopar Performance purple camshaft, duration 284/284, lift .484/.484 sound? rowanamethyst fucked around with this message at 17:29 on Apr 30, 2015 |
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Apr 30, 2015 17:22
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284 is waaaaaaay too much cam. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/113-9604-choosing-the-right-camshaft/
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Apr 30, 2015 17:44
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rowanamethyst posted:Good thinking. The guy is asking over $3000 for it, it's worth a bit less than that but I'm willing to dicker. I want to keep my parts cost around $1000. If it's clean, it's probably going to hold its value better as a bone stock sleeper with some concessions to modern tech. You can amp up the motor all you like as long as the downstream components will handle it. In my experience, the weakness of the stock 318 setup was the rear end--the spider gears must have been made of pot metal or something. I think I munched two sets. This was a 72 Dart, but I can't imagine they radically changed or improved in 4 years. Then again I was 18 and driving like an rear end most of the time...
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Apr 30, 2015 18:18
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Powershift posted:284 is waaaaaaay too much cam. Thank you! This is a very good resource and helps me understand the fiddly bits of camshaft selection. Good thing, too, the Mopar shaft was kinda pricey. Edit: Okay, how about a COMP camshaft kit, complete with lifters, springs, seals (the old seals are a little leaky anyway), timing chain and gears, and a couple other things? Duration at 050 inch lift: 212 int./218 exh., valve lift with factory rocker arm ratio: 0.447 int./0.455 exh. That's pretty close to what the article recommends for a mostly street car. I don't want to make a monster, I just want a car that can get out of its own way. Thanks for your help! rowanamethyst fucked around with this message at 02:54 on May 1, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 02:39
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGnMVijx5GE
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May 1, 2015 05:27
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rowanamethyst posted:Thank you! This is a very good resource and helps me understand the fiddly bits of camshaft selection. Good thing, too, the Mopar shaft was kinda pricey. This would be a lot better suited towards that 318. The heads are probably still going to choke the life out of it, but that cam will be a lot better fit than the 284 monster you previously mentioned. When you get a new cam, you need new lifters anyway so a kit is usually a better way to go.
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May 1, 2015 18:41
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Ha! That's a great review, and it sums up exactly why I like the Volare. Edit: To clarify, it's for the same reason I like the late 80s Ford Festiva. They're not fast or exciting, but they're just so neat and fun regardless. And I LOVE that torsion bar front suspension, it's just so weird and cool. Boaz MacPhereson posted:This would be a lot better suited towards that 318. The heads are probably still going to choke the life out of it, but that cam will be a lot better fit than the 284 monster you previously mentioned. When you get a new cam, you need new lifters anyway so a kit is usually a better way to go. Yeah, I basically picked that first cam at random, don't know what I was thinking. I'll look into getting new heads at some point, I figure I'll build this thing incrementally as I can afford parts. rowanamethyst fucked around with this message at 00:02 on May 2, 2015 |
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May 1, 2015 23:59
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My father had a 1977 Aspen which horked up its transmission after 30,000 miles. He replaced it with a 1978 Volare whose engine seized after 25,000 miles. He replaced that with a 1981 Ram truck that he still has (used mainly as a fishing truck).
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May 2, 2015 01:17
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Mister Kingdom posted:My father had a 1977 Aspen which horked up its transmission after 30,000 miles. He replaced it with a 1978 Volare whose engine seized after 25,000 miles. He replaced that with a 1981 Ram truck that he still has (used mainly as a fishing truck). Then I should have 1,000 miles before the engine goes, it's got 24,000 on it. I'm not going to be DDing it, so I can afford to baby it and take care of any problems that will inevitably crop up. I'm not disillusioned, I know this is a lovely car from the automotive dark ages, I just think it looks good and I want to cruise around and have fun fixing it up and throwing some mods at it.
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May 2, 2015 04:02
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It should be compulsory to include a picture in threads like this.
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May 3, 2015 21:27
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Just an FYI if you want to get a little adventerous, a Magnum 5.9 from a multitude of donors, like a Ram or Durango, will bolt right up, wiring isn't too complicated.
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May 4, 2015 03:59
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Viper v10 will probably fit if you aren't up for the boat anchor swap.
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May 4, 2015 04:20
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Slant Six and Torqueflite combo 
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May 4, 2015 06:17
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You Am I posted:Slant Six and Torqueflite combo Powerflite. Sporty.
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May 4, 2015 08:19
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Mighty Horse posted:Just an FYI if you want to get a little adventerous, a Magnum 5.9 from a multitude of donors, like a Ram or Durango, will bolt right up, wiring isn't too complicated. I'll keep that in mind. Current plans are to mildly build up the stock 318, then drive it until it blows up and swap in something big.
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May 4, 2015 20:53
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So I picked up a Chilton guide for this thing... Is it bad luck to buy the guide before buying the car? Anyway, I was looking up some stuff in it, and was marveling at how simple everything is! I spent three years at a tech school, working on like early 2000s Saturns and such, so seeing a car where everything is easy to get at and only takes a couple steps to replace is REALLY refreshing! Replacing the camshaft will require removing the heads so I might as well start with that and just put on the new intake and carb as I reinstall everything.
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May 7, 2015 17:04
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rowanamethyst posted:Replacing the camshaft will require removing the heads so I might as well start with that and just put on the new intake and carb as I reinstall everything. It's going to require new lifters as well so be aware of that. Make sure to check your pushrods to see if they're reusable. Make sure that cam will work with your stock rocker arms as well. Does the Chilton's include how to adjust valves and set lash and all that jazz?
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May 7, 2015 17:44
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:It's going to require new lifters as well so be aware of that. Make sure to check your pushrods to see if they're reusable. Make sure that cam will work with your stock rocker arms as well. Does the Chilton's include how to adjust valves and set lash and all that jazz? Chilton says lash only needs adjusting on the 6-cyl, though I guess that doesn't take cam/lifter replacement into account. I'm getting a whole kit for the camshaft, it includes lifters, timing gears, and chain. I'll figure it out as I go, this ain't my first rodeo, though I've never done aftermarket before.
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May 8, 2015 15:33
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I just acquired a 1980 Volare, and it's going to take a bit of work to get into a reliable operating condition. The interior is a wreck, but I've seen worse and is the lowest priority on the fix it list. The main problem is that I'm an idiot when it comes to cars. I can change oil and plugs, and that's about it. No wiring harness, so I started taping everything up instead. I've got two new fuel filters, a thermostat, and carb kit that need to be put on it, and I don't know where to start, especially with my limited experience. This is what I have to work with. I don't have a lot of money to spend on it, or else I'd have already taken it to a shop for a tune-up and alignment. My current task is getting the brake lights to work. Tail lights are fine, bulbs are good, already got a brake light switch in case the old one is poo poo, but after looking at the connectors, I'm going to try changing those out first. Edit: Brake lights were a blown fuse. I feel like a dumbass. Thermostat and one fuel filter are changed, the other isn't even supposed to be there, but the replacement I have for it is too big. That said, it's running so much better now. Still needs a bunch of extremely minor poo poo, but all in all, I'm digging it. Jesus Toast fucked around with this message at 22:29 on May 14, 2015 |
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May 12, 2015 17:37
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Jesus Toast posted:I just acquired a 1980 Volare, and it's going to take a bit of work to get into a reliable operating condition. The interior is a wreck, but I've seen worse and is the lowest priority on the fix it list. The main problem is that I'm an idiot when it comes to cars. I can change oil and plugs, and that's about it. No wiring harness, so I started taping everything up instead. I've got two new fuel filters, a thermostat, and carb kit that need to be put on it, and I don't know where to start, especially with my limited experience. Glad to hear it! I had to stare for a few minutes at that rat's nest of wires, I'm amazed nothing got torn out or melted by now! As for my Volare, we're doing the title transfer and everything tomorrow, so unless something horrible happens, it'll be mine. I'm paying a bit too much for it but the seller is convinced it's worth about $1000 more than it is, and I just really want this car. So what's a grand among friends? (or near-total strangers)
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May 19, 2015 03:05
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The thing with classic/vintage car buying is to take your time with it. This usually goes against the impulse of "I must have it NOW" because of the emotional investment people usually have in these types of cars. I think it's a really good first start to start asking what other people think here. I'm a classic Mustang guy, and I'm a member of a ton of different forums and FB groups and the like for them. The information they contain is invaluable. I've actually never heard of the Volare, but I imagine there must be clubs or groups or something of the like on the internet for them. Have you found other communities interested in that particular car? They'll be able to tell you exactly what to look for when inspecting it. Common rust points, desirable/valuable options, everything. If they're anything like Mustang people they will also look at pictures you take of the car to help you, or if there's a club near you maybe you can convince a member to come out and have a look as well. Regarding updates, I think most people have covered the relatively cheap bolt-on horsepower stuff (carb, intake, cam, rear end). Since the car probably runs on points, I would also suggest switching immediately to some sort of electronic ignition. This can be something hidden in the distributor like a Pertronix Ignitor module or something a bit more flashy. It will start up and idle more reliably, and you may also find it improves your gas mileage a bit. Also, never dealing with points again is a plus. And post pictures!
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May 19, 2015 13:54
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rowanamethyst posted:So I picked up a Chilton guide for this thing... Is it bad luck to buy the guide before buying the car? Anyway, I was looking up some stuff in it, and was marveling at how simple everything is! I spent three years at a tech school, working on like early 2000s Saturns and such, so seeing a car where everything is easy to get at and only takes a couple steps to replace is REALLY refreshing! Keep in mind the steps are so simple in a Chilton/Haynes is because they make steps such as: 1) remove engine 2) unbolt bolt 7 3) replace part 4) Install is reverse.
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May 19, 2015 15:17
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Faded Mars posted:Since the car probably runs on points, I would also suggest switching immediately to some sort of electronic ignition. This can be something hidden in the distributor like a Pertronix Ignitor module or something a bit more flashy. It will start up and idle more reliably, and you may also find it improves your gas mileage a bit. Also, never dealing with points again is a plus. It's actually a hall effect distributor, so no points! Pictures will come soon-ish, I gotta take my camera down to it. So I got the car. It runs beautifully, shifts smooth as silk, the only problem is it overheats on long trips. Which, I was gonna replace the water pump, thermostat, and radiator anyway, so it's no big deal. I am not disappointed in it at all, I knew there'd be teething issues at first, and the cooling system is fairly easy to work on. Other than that, though, it's fine! No odd noises, no shakes or shudders, it rolls straight, brakes straight and strong, and for only having 150 HP, it has some pickup. Of course, I'm only about 20 miles into our relationship, about 1/4 city, 1/2 highway, and 1/4 country roads, so there's plenty left to learn about this beast. toplitzin posted:Keep in mind the steps are so simple in a Chilton/Haynes is because they make steps such as: Ha, this is true, but I read the steps and it's ACTUALLY simple. Benefit of an older car, I guess!
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May 20, 2015 04:23
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I love that your idea of overheating on long trips includes an accumulated twenty miles total
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May 20, 2015 04:28
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DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:I love that your idea of overheating on long trips includes an accumulated twenty miles total hey, that was a full tank of gas, it counts.
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May 20, 2015 04:34
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DICKPOCALYPSE NOW posted:I love that your idea of overheating on long trips includes an accumulated twenty miles total Pardon my imprecise language, I meant trips longer than, say, down to the store. I live in a small town flanked by two cities about 20 miles away in either direction, so that's about as far as I ever drive. Any longer than that and I make a full day of it. And I wasn't counting the test drive or the trip to the notary, just the drive home. Parts are ordered from Rockauto, they'll be here on Friday. I figure I'll get my vaguely mechanically-inclined friend to help out, since I had a stroke a year and a half ago and my right side has lovely fine motor control. Anyway, hopefully we'll be able to get it all done in a day, looking at my trusty Chilton guide the hard part is gonna be the water pump. I've done one before on a vehicle with MUCH worse access, I had to take the wheel well apart just to get at it, so this should be a breeze. The rest is super easy, though I'm concerned about getting air in the transmission cooler lines when we replace the radiator. Chilton doesn't seem to think it'll be a problem, though, so I guess I'll see what happens and just keep checking the level.
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May 21, 2015 04:06
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The best performance for your buck and time is going to be finding a 5.9 magnum from a 98-01 Dakota R/T or Durango R/T. A 4 barrel intake, an Edelbrock 600cfm, and a set of headers would be a pretty good setup and a reasonably easy swap.
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May 21, 2015 04:30
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Pictures! Such a majestic vehicle...  So lovely.  An excellent example of 70s quality.  With premium trim, and a lush interior.  In great condition.  All original!  Including the original wheels.  I call him "Voltaire". 
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May 22, 2015 17:14
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 16:56 |
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That actually doesn't look all that bad and the interior is pretty great for the time. Not alot of center consoles back then. Good luck replacing that dash pad, though. edit Powershift posted:284 is waaaaaaay too much cam. Oh and thanks for this article. I'm going to be doing some work to a 1978 460 later this year and was curious about cams.
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Jul 16, 2015 05:17
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