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98 Integra LS. About a year ago, I drove through a big rear end puddle and filled my cylinders up with water. After I blew the water out, it appeared to have survived mostly unscathed, because it seemed to run fine for a whole year, other than an intermittent misfire. Apparently I was wrong, because after I towed a trailer this weekend, the misfire became permanent and I have zero compression in cylinder 3. What are the chances this is a headgasket and not something more serious? There are no tell-tale signs -- no oil in the coolant, no coolant in the oil, and no bubbles in the coolant when the engine is running. Can I nail down the cause without tearing the engine too far apart? If it's more than $500-700 I just want to scrap the car, so a new motor or a new head is out of the question (I'd be taking it to a shop, no garage to do something that serious).
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Jun 8, 2015 20:23
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You should be able to get a borescope in cylinder 3 and rotate the crank by hand until it's at the bottom of the stroke, check for damage to the piston by the valve, or signs of a broken ringland, bring it to TDC and make sure it's actually close to the top, to rule out a bent rod. if the engine was running when it sucked the water in, cylinder 3 might have been on the compression stroke, an that's what stopped the engine. The labour on a junkyard engine swap is probably out of your budget. If it's a coupe in decent shape, you should be able to sell it for more than scrap.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:29
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^^That too, the rest of this post is assuming it's unrelated to hydrolock.^^ Exhaust gases could get into the coolant without showing up as bubbles, get a coolant sniffer. Nailing down why compression is bad is what a leakdown tester is for, that link is a good quick guide. Requires a compressor though, so if you don't have one you'll be taking it to a shop for that, but that test is what the shop would recommend anyway if they're competent at all. Answering anything more in-depth would require the results of that, so get that done asap.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:30
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And what state are you in? I've been looking for an integra shell.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:44
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Agreed with Enourmo, a leakdown test is what you want to do here.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:45
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Thanks everyone, looks like I'll just take it to a shop and explain the situation, since all of this requires tools I don't have.ChewedFood posted:And what state are you in? I've been looking for an integra shell. MN
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Jun 8, 2015 20:46
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If you're only tool-limited, not understanding-limited, getting what you need to do a swap will cost less than paying someone. An engine swap (or pretty much anything else) can be done on a driveway, weather and neighbours permitting.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:53
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I'm mostly "not willing to put in the work" limited. I have friends with garages and engine hoists if I really wanted to.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:57
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If you ever in your life wanted to experience an engine replacement, your Integra is the ideal subject. Engine swaps in Integras are extremely well documented, and the cars are generally easy to work on. Don't think of it as work, think of it as training for a potential post apocalypse survival skill.
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Jun 8, 2015 21:46
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Swap in a CRV motor.
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Jun 8, 2015 21:47
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Leakdown test is the best solution. Did it on my VW and nailed the compression problem down to the valve. I don't know why its rarely talked about.
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Jun 8, 2015 21:58
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Phone posted:Swap in a CRV motor. My parents actually have a '98 CRV they want to get rid of. Unfortunately, it's down in Florida (I'm moving near them in 2 months), which is one of the reasons I'm strongly considering getting rid of the car -- would make the move much easier.
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Jun 9, 2015 01:50
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It's going to be more than $500 even if it's just the head gasket, if you have a shop doing the work. It might even go past your $700 limit. This is assuming the only issue is the head gasket, and that the head doesn't need to be skimmed or anything. So you should probably plan for the worst. Irony: the reason I got rid of my Integra was lack of compression. 91 LS, but the engine is nearly identical - B18A instead of B18B, 10hp difference (biggest difference was cams IIRC), lost most compression on #2 and #3 and started smoking really bad, though in my case it was suspected to be from the aftermarket fuel pressure regulator that the previous owner installed - friend that took it off my hands tore it down, and thought it leaned out long term, as it wound up having burnt valves and basically no rings on those cylinders. Explains the 40-45 MPG it got on road trips.
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Jun 9, 2015 05:26
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