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$1500 can get you some surprising cars in Las Vegas. Here is my "replacement" for my formerly stolen wagon, a 1992 Buick Century sedan. The only options on this car appear to be a tape deck, 3.3L Buick V6, and four speed automatic. (Click all for bigger.)          I love old people cars. The body and interior are in amazing condition, especially considering it lived at least part of its life in Florida. (Anyone wanna run a Carfax for me?) I have named it Goldilocks. Probably a little uncreative, but it fits. It's not too big, and not too small. The power profile of the Buick V6 (peak torque at 2000 rpm) combined with the 2.73 final drive make it not too fast, and not too slow. The air conditioning with tinted windows make it not too hot and not too cold. Juuuuuuuust right. Quirks include a reticence with regards to idling, which I hope can be cured with a new idle speed control motor, cleaning the throttle body, or both, and a plunger switch that controls the fuel pump.
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Jun 18, 2015 21:20
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 00:53 |
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I think every car deserve its fans. It makes me happy that you're so dedicated to A-Bodies - most of these just got thrown away.
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Jun 18, 2015 22:08
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Human Grand Prix posted:I think every car deserve its fans. It makes me happy that you're so dedicated to A-Bodies - most of these just got thrown away.
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Jun 18, 2015 22:33
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3.3 you say? poo poo, who left this here? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyKkYG8_EkI What's going on with the wagon?
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Jun 19, 2015 01:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:3.3 you say? poo poo, who left this here? Seat Safety Switch posted:What's going on with the wagon? Currently loaned to my mom so it's not just sitting at my house waiting to possibly be stolen again, since it can literally be started with a screwdriver. I still haven't installed a new ignition.
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Jun 19, 2015 02:55
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I bought this car from a mechanic who put an engine in it because his customer blew a head gasket... Don't drive around with the temperature idiot light on for a week, folks. It drove well enough for about four days, then simply wouldn't start one morning. I have done several things to fix this, but to no avail. A brief overview: —Preemptively, I asked the mechanic to replace the crank position sensor on the "new" engine before he put it in, since it's a pain in the rear end to do on your own. He showed me the receipt for the part, and I can see shiny new plastic down at the connector. (The engine is not sequential injection, so it does not have a cam position sensor.) —Checking for fuel at the rail resulted in a dribble, rather than the expected spray. Replaced fuel pump with known good unit. —I then found out that the toggle switch I was having to use to make the pump run was a savant bypass of a blown fuse and bad relay. $16 later, and removal of the now-extraneous switch and wiring, there is good pressure at the rail. Still no start. —Spark looks weak. Ignition module tested good at Autozone. I swapped the coils over from my wagon (same part), still nothing. —I bought a multimeter and checked the resistance on each fuel injector, since they are known for shorting out, and the computer's fail-safe is to disable the injector driver entirely. All six read ~12.8 ohms, spec is 12-ish. Now I'm stumped. The engine is getting fuel, air, and spark, so there is no physical reason it should not be running, as far as I can tell.
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Jun 23, 2015 16:25
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Left Ventricle posted:Now I'm stumped. The engine is getting fuel, air, and spark, so there is no physical reason it should not be running, as far as I can tell. Only one thing left that would stop it.... ....the engine itself.
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Jun 23, 2015 16:27
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Maybe it just needs more air, like, from a turbocharger? Like an asthma thing? Seriously though, the toggle switch worries me a bit (mostly why it was needed, as opposed to its existence). Did it just replace that blown fuel pump relay and fuse (done blowed out agin!) or are we talking about the ECU having some kind of driver to control the fuel pump that might be damaged? How is the timing controlled? Good compression numbers when you spin the engine on the starter? Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Jun 23, 2015 |
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Jun 23, 2015 16:28
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Sigh... This is the part where I look like an idiot in front of the internet. The reason the car wouldn't start is that my driveway sits on an incline, so the couple of gallons of fuel in the tank had moved away from the pickup for the pump. It tried to start on starting fluid, so I rolled it into the street and the drat thing started. 
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Jun 23, 2015 18:14
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Left Ventricle posted:Sigh... This is the part where I look like an idiot in front of the internet. The reason the car wouldn't start is that my driveway sits on an incline, so the couple of gallons of fuel in the tank had moved away from the pickup for the pump. It tried to start on starting fluid, so I rolled it into the street and the drat thing started. We all do it man. Its okay.
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Jun 23, 2015 18:15
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Left Ventricle posted:Sigh... This is the part where I look like an idiot in front of the internet. The reason the car wouldn't start is that my driveway sits on an incline, so the couple of gallons of fuel in the tank had moved away from the pickup for the pump. It tried to start on starting fluid, so I rolled it into the street and the drat thing started. I have had literally the exact same happen to me. Even as far as confirming everything.
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Jun 23, 2015 18:29
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poo poo happens. At least you diked out the previous owner's fuel pump switch.
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Jun 23, 2015 20:23
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| # ? Apr 25, 2024 00:53 |
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After doing all this fuel system work you really should replace the fuel filter as well. Because it would suck to do all this work then some tiny piece of fuel filter breaks off and clogs everything up.
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Jun 24, 2015 00:29
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