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Sounds good! Shame about the dent, hopefully that doesn't turn into an ordeal.
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# ? Oct 2, 2016 13:40 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 09:25 |
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mmmm...classic push-button start. Getting close to done, now!
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# ? Oct 2, 2016 13:45 |
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So the good news is: My job at replacing the diff seal held. The diff is now filled with a nice combination of gear oil and friction additive, and holding. All that's left to get it back running is: 1) Solder a wire. 2) Replace all the wonderful white fibrous heatshield. Unknown what material it is, could be asbestos for all I know. 3) Re-secure the HVAC cable. Once all that is done, it'll be time to get it timed, and I really should replace one of the nipples on the intake manifold, and probably should secure the windshield post, as well as rig up the mirror so it stays in spot. Then it's onto interior... More updates to come this weekend.
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# ? Oct 4, 2016 00:35 |
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Please tell me you've read The Last Open Road.
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# ? Oct 4, 2016 14:01 |
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Straight 6 supremacy <3
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# ? Oct 4, 2016 14:23 |
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Project '67 XKE - Paintwork and nipple replacements. (Because it makes me touch myself.)
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# ? Oct 4, 2016 14:35 |
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Many heat shields were asbestos: http://www.jcna.com/heat-shield-asbestos Be careful, wet it first if you can, wear a respirator, vacuum up any mess, use dust sheets and trash them afterwards, yadda yadda. Nice car.
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# ? Oct 4, 2016 16:31 |
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Heat shields are in, alternator wire properly soldered back, and the clutch spring was adjusted. Took it for a quick spin around the neighborhood and it appears there's a light tick I can hear that probably couldn't before because it was so loud. I believe it's on the top end, so I would not be surprised if the valves all need adjustment. I hope that's all it is. The turn signals don't work anymore. I'm hoping this is because we made a slight goof when reinstalling the steering column that I know of that has caused the horn to not work. The clutch spring still needs more adjustment, or the clutch will need to be replaced, which again, being the stock clutch from 1967, wouldn't really shock me. In completely other news I managed to find a 240SX with rod knock (but otherwise runs & drives) for $400, so that will get all the LS swap goodness that I am holding myself back from doing on the Jag.
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# ? Oct 9, 2016 07:15 |
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Way2slow posted:Heat shields are in, alternator wire properly soldered back, and the clutch spring was adjusted. Sounds like the horn and turn signals are a ground issue. Is this thing positive or negative earth?
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# ? Oct 10, 2016 03:08 |
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Luckily, it's negative ground from factory for this year. I'm pretty sure it's a ground issue too, as when we rebuilt the steering column, when putting it back in a pin fell out of place for the horn's ground. I'm hoping they share the ground, if they do, that explains it, but it was a PITA to do the steering column work, and I'd rather have non working signals and horn (for now) over a steering wheel that wobbles (the internal column spacer was destroyed by the body guy, when for some reason he was dicking with the horn. He had no business opening the steering wheel, but I'm pretty sure he was trying to steal parts I wouldn't notice right away.)
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# ? Oct 10, 2016 08:05 |
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As far as the 240SX, if you just want to make it run and drive until you can do the LS swap, KA24s are dirt cheap and plentiful. Just know you can't use the FWD variant (93-01 Altima) of the KA24DE in a RWD application; the head, manifolds, accessories, distributor, timing cover, etc are different. ultimateforce would be the 240SX master in AI. Glad to hear progress is being made on this beautiful beast!
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# ? Oct 10, 2016 08:35 |
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Way2slow posted:He had no business opening the steering wheel, but I'm pretty sure he was trying to steal parts I wouldn't notice right away.)
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# ? Oct 10, 2016 14:33 |
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SuperDucky posted:I'm still unsure why you continued dealing with this shithead after it was evident he was loving you over repeatedly, but I'm glad you got the car back. These were all things I found out after getting the car back (with regards to wrong parts, missing parts etc). Once this was found out, it never went back to him, despite being incomplete.
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# ? Oct 12, 2016 01:13 |
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Tested timing, it's all dead on dwell and timing, was trying to figure out why it was seemingly getting hot. It appears some wires got flipped in the new giant electric fan, which was causing an issue. Also tuned it quite a bit better. It now drives without overheating. This is good news, but now that I can move it for longer distances, the pressure plate just isn't doing it's job. The first 10-15 clutch presses, it works properly, re-engages etc.. but much past that, and we're running into fatigue, and it fails to engage. Further evidenced by the fact I can push the clutch fork forward by hand, pretty sure that pressure plate is shot, which would make sense, being the factory original pressure plate. Ordered a whole new clutch set, which I will not be installing, but will have this done next week.
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# ? Oct 29, 2016 05:02 |
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Way2slow posted:Tested timing, it's all dead on dwell and timing, was trying to figure out why it was seemingly getting hot. "Well, I know the fan's running, it's even powerful enough to blow dry leaves away from the car when it turns on." "....Oh. Yeah."
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# ? Oct 29, 2016 12:45 |
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So, the clutch was replaced, which required removal of the engine. The clutch now engages on time, every time, and it drives without over heating. The rattle was the hood not being fully closed and latched. Opening and re-closing it resolved that issue. So I got it back, and the idle was way off (1800rpm). Investigated, and found those wonderful scamps that did the clutch lost one of the return springs for the carbs (each has it's own), and as a result one carb was not returning to proper closed position when the throttle no longer being pressed down. Furthermore, rather than mount the incorrect spring to some point that wouldn't do anything, they attached it to the vacuum advance unit on the distributor, which promptly removed that causing a vacuum leak as well, and timing was all fubar'd because it thought it was at full throttle all the time. After doing the work to diagnose and figure that all out, I haven't had time yet to delve into whatever the next mess will be with this vehicle (probably the turn signal/horn), but quite frankly, I have a middle finger, and that replaces the horn for now.
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# ? Jan 16, 2017 02:36 |
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Man, how do you find so many assholes to gently caress up your car?
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# ? Jan 16, 2017 02:50 |
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Raluek posted:Man, how do you find so many assholes to gently caress up your car? I don't think it's assholes that are intentionally doing it, I think the car is just rare/unseen enough that no one knows how to properly fix it. It's not like you can just run to the corner store to pick up parts for it... The fans aren't kicking on again. Didn't get too hot, but hot enough they should have kicked on, when attempting to drive it. I don't think they've worked since I got it back from the clutch replacement, which would explain why on the way back it got hotter than expected (and I never did see/hear them kick on), but luckily traffic began to move so air could flow.
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# ? Jan 21, 2017 23:48 |
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# ? Apr 24, 2024 09:25 |
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Was it a specialty/vintage/British shop, or just one that you knew to be reputable?
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# ? Feb 8, 2017 22:26 |