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T1g4h posted:The red pinstriping owns. Those wheels look boss as gently caress! it looks even better in the dark.    I also painted the front caps to match, unfortunately, not reflective.  I'm getting about 18mpg in the city. with gas at $1.18/liter and diesel at $0.91 a liter, it's cheaper to drive this big thing than it is to drive my car Powershift fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Aug 26, 2015 |
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Aug 26, 2015 05:14
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Gas/diesel prices are so weird right now. Some stations are still charging typical diesel prices (30-50c/gallon higher than gas), while others are charging considerably less for diesel vs gas. So far the lowest diesel I've seen has been $2.01/gallon, with gasoline right at $2.25/gallon. The station I usually fill up at has regular unleaded and diesel prices within a few cents of each other - gas is $2.16 at that one.
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Aug 27, 2015 03:15
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I had a station today flip from 90.9 to 96.9 once i activated the pump. I hung it back up and drove up the road and found a place at 86.4 a liter. $100 bucks later, i'm set for another 1,000kms. I also sold some bmw wheels and jumped the gun on a set of winter wheels/tires for this beast. I was going to wait until i sold my other truck before doing anything else to this thing, but i am weak. I think i done hosed up. they're huge. Might need a little finessing and gentle persuasion to avoid rubbing up front but i'm good with hammer. Me hammer stuff good.   they're 275/65r20, or 34"x11". If they fit, the increased diameter will drop me 200 RPM at 65mph, which will hopefully make up for the wider tire. They also almost perfectly match the tires i'm keeping off my f-150, so i should be set for a few years, at least.
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Aug 27, 2015 05:22
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Powershift posted:I had a station today flip from 90.9 to 96.9 once i activated the pump. I've often wondered how they handled that, especially compared to the prices on the bigass sign. My best guess is to, when there's a price increase, give the customer a 10 minute window before it's put into effect. The other way, of course, you could just do it immediately.
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Aug 27, 2015 10:42
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That's got the 7.3L in it, right?
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Aug 27, 2015 18:26
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TEAH SYAG posted:That's got the 7.3L in it, right? Yeah. A 197,000km 7.3 that starts immediately without even hitting the glow plugs off one little battery, and has almost no blowby. It's a unicorn, most people can't believe it exists.
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Aug 27, 2015 22:01
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I would fly and drive for a far rattier 7.3 for the price you paid.
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Aug 27, 2015 23:03
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The brakes up front were starting to squeak even though i thought they had good meat on them, the carfax says they were done at 170k at minute muffler in calgary. figured i would change them out anyways. couldn't hurt. well, gently caress.  one side was worn at a really janky angle halfway through, and with dual piston calipers, that really shouldn't happen. so i kept digging further for the problem.  god damnit, minute muffler. just because spit is enough lube when you're fuckin your sister doesn't mean it's enough for brakes.  even cleaned up they were pretty terrible  It was a pain in the rear end to find the updated style slide pins, but 2 stores each had 1 set in.  Also, while i was grabbing brake pads, i saw the canadian tire had this metal sign on clearance, and i figured if i didn't buy it you guys would make me turn in my gun and my badge.  Slow is Fast posted:I would fly and drive for a far rattier 7.3 for the price you paid. Had i known it was going to be in such good condition, i would have bought the other 2 that went through the same auction. CN seems to throw running but rough stuff into auctions as inoperable. I think the chance for 7.3s is gone, i can't imagine there are any left sitting around, but this truck here seems to be the same kind of situation https://www.rbauction.com/2009-CHEVROLET-2500HD-Crew-Cab-4x4-Pickup?invId=8596930&id=ci&auction=EDMONTON-AB-2015162
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Aug 28, 2015 02:01
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WTF since when does Canadian Tire have kick rear end signs like that?
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Aug 28, 2015 03:11
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Seat Safety Switch posted:WTF since when does Canadian Tire have kick rear end signs like that? i don't know. they had 2 of em sitting on their clearance table for 6 bucks. normally the metal signs they sell have a wolf and a bear and yosimite sam tellin you to back off and chevy only parking <--->
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Aug 28, 2015 03:15
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That's awesome. If you ever see one of those with like quirky French-car bullshit again (not like "BMW ONLY PARKING") I'll take it.
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Aug 28, 2015 03:47
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I have never seen Canadian Tire stock signs but then again the clearance table at CT contains lots of mysterious artifacts that don't seem like things they'd sell
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Aug 28, 2015 07:17
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Powershift posted:i don't know. they had 2 of em sitting on their clearance table for 6 bucks. I dislike Canadian tire extensively due to their crappy inventory, many of their tools being the quality of princess auto returns and the way they treat their staff corporately (I'm surprised they haven't unionized) but one of my local ones started selling guns including old Soviet surplus, so that's cool in my book.
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Aug 28, 2015 14:20
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Powershift posted:Yeah. A 197,000km 7.3 that starts immediately without even hitting the glow plugs off one little battery, and has almost no blowby. I love the Lincoln. Except when it vapour locks for half an hour and five goons stare mournfully at the three acre engine bay attempting to plan an expedition into the heart of that beast. Seriously though that Lincoln rules. This truck is neat as hell too, your modifications look awesome. (Ever get that window regulator poo poo worked out on the linc?)
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Aug 28, 2015 20:57
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Slung Blade posted:I love the Lincoln. no, but i propped it closed with a piece of wood! i seem to have fixed the vapour lock though, with a little bit of insulation tape and some new fuel filters. who would have guessed the fuel lines being an inch away from the exhaust manifold would cause issues? Unfortunately what i suspected was a small exhaust leak has turned into a large exhaust leak, and the exhaust on there is so old school, it all basically has to be cut off and re-done. unfortunately, money's tight and the lincoln eats it's meager portion of the budget in gas.
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Aug 28, 2015 21:07
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You can see on these old wheels there are little bits of corossion under the clearcoat. This wheel is probably the best of the 4.  I tried all kinds of poo poo, oven cleaner, HCl, brake cleaner, only thing that seemed to work was 400 grit and a whole lot of rubbin. This is just 400 > 800 > polish, no finer grit or buff. Just to see what it's gonna take, see if it's worth bothering or just paint them instead. i'm going to get some aircraft remover and try that, but if that doesn't work it could be a lot of shoulder work sanding these bitches.  That worked well, so i figured i would work an entire spoke. it's the bottom right, a clean factory clearcoat spoke is right across from it.   again, this is no 2500/4000 or buff. just 800 straight to polish. because it's a pain in the rear end to switch wheels on my buffer.  basically, they're gonna look really, really, really tits. way shinier than factory. being winter wheels i'm going to have to wax them and keep them up, but it might just be worth it.
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Aug 29, 2015 01:43
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I sort of like the big rear end GM bumper on it. Gives it that busted lower lip look. The console looks like it belongs too which is niiiice. Beater PSDs are the best. I picked up a almost blown 07' 6.blow for 1500 that I fixed for under 500 and flipped for the infection cream colored bus with the bastard wiring you fuckers all remember.
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Aug 29, 2015 04:34
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That polish job looks incredible. Would mediablasting take the clear and corrosion out without totally ruining the surface? You'd probably need to power polish it after though.
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Aug 29, 2015 04:48
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slidebite posted:I dislike Canadian tire extensively due to their crappy inventory, many of their tools being the quality of princess auto returns and the way they treat their staff corporately (I'm surprised they haven't unionized) but one of my local ones started selling guns including old Soviet surplus, so that's cool in my book. I got a mastercraft toolset, I've used the 1/4" socket exactly three times and at the end of the third time it started feeling pretty rough. expecting to replace it pretty soon.
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Aug 29, 2015 04:52
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Seat Safety Switch posted:That polish job looks incredible. I think media blasting would leave too much to polish out. it would also be quite a bit more expensive than the $10 in paint stripper or $10 worth of sandpaper and noodley arms. cursedshitbox posted:I sort of like the big rear end GM bumper on it. Gives it that busted lower lip look. The console looks like it belongs too which is niiiice. There was a 6.0 in the pick-n-pull with the front end smushed in, meaning it "ran when parked", i was tempted to grab a whole bunch of the expensive bits in case i ever end up being cursed with a 6.blow. most of the ones that end up on there are there because of the engine. They never seem to get below $1000 at auctions here, because the easy access cores are worth $850 cash. $150 for the FCIM, $150 for the HPOP, $150 for the turbo, $50/injector x 8 injectors. The 7.3 has to be one of my favorite engines of all time, though. flooring it is an event.
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Aug 29, 2015 05:09
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Got some paint stripper on the wheels, used heirloom max from home depot, nasty nasty stuff, but the best kind of nasty. the eat through your gloves kind of nasty though, but what's a quiet saturday afternoon without some minor chemical burns.  After the first hit  took about 4 rounds of covering and scraping, The brush didn't seem to enjoy it.  took it all to the car wash and blasted everything real good. came out pretty nice, but there were some spots under the clear coat that were obviously touched up at the factory, and a whole lot of corrosion. Figured i would work 1 wheel at a time. and the worst of them is the first up.   Went 220 to get through the worst corrosion, 400>800>2000, buff, polish. i'm going to need a finer polish to get the last few scratches out before i wax it all. worth 3 hours labour per wheel? maybe, maybe not.   finished wheel on the left  some of the corosion was too deep to completely remove, but i was able to minimize it, really hard to see.  Then i figured i would do a couple tests with my bent BMW rim. Just like the ford hood a while back, there was a layer that the paint stripper just wouldn't touch. Naturally, just being a painted wheel, it was a bare casting underneath, and rough as hell. i sanded and polished 1 spoke, it would take a hell of a lot of finger strength even to just do the face.  In another area, i tried just stripping it with a brass wire cup, and attacking it with the buffer. came out kinda neat, like an unmachined tool kind of look   looks neat, but i'm not sure i'm going to go anywhere with that.
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Aug 30, 2015 06:08
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 cruise ship content I'm not sure what it is about polishing metal that's so theraputic, although it's murder on the forearms and fingers. I went to the pick-n-pull and got a whole bunch of wheels. i went in expecting just to get a small badge, so i took the car. let's see how that worked out....  oh yeah, that's some good squatting. Final haul was 4 18 inch style 67 BMW wheels. unfortunately one has a hole, but the rubber on the rears is brand spankin new   And a set of 15 inch Lincoln mark 5 turbines with all 4 rust free caps. an unbelievable find with all the caps intact, let alone for 90 bucks.  All that holds the caps on is 3 little pegs so if some monkey at the tire shop ovals out the cap a little, it flies off like a 70s action movie when you take a hard turn.  They are 40 year old aluminum wheels, and they were never shiny. they were very coarsely machined at the factory. i buffed a section here to show what the surface really looks like.  The entire rim looks like that, the face of all 36 spokes, which means there is so much sanding involved. so, so much sanding. because of the contour and cut of the spokes, i really can't figure out a way to put any power tools to use, so this is pretty much all done by hand. i went through this patch to show my process, even though it's eventually going to be under the cap. first is 180 grit  400 grit  it felt smooth enough i just went straight to 2000 grit  coarse buff  fine buff  polish  comparing the finished product(top center) with the starting point(bottom right)  Picture an 80s montage of sanding and sanding and sanding and sanding and sanding and buffing and polishing here. I rushed it at the end and have to re do a couple bits, and need a smaller diameter buff to do the spokes by the cap pegs, but the end result really makes all the finger pain worth it. I'm really not a photographer, so it's hard to convey how shiny they really are, and how the light plays with the curvature of the spokes.   and of course some before and after comparisons.   
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Sep 5, 2015 03:15
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Nice! Those wheels look phenomenally better, awesome job  I should really yank the steelies off my Vic and hit them with a fresh coat of flat black since they're getting rusty and ugly as hell, but 
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Sep 5, 2015 03:18
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Those caps are a helluva find. They were rare when I was a kid, and I can scarcely believe they actually stuck with a car for its entire life.
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Sep 6, 2015 02:09
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Got all 4 lincoln wheels done. now they just need a good clean to get the polishing stuff off, but that won't come until i've got tires for it. Turns out a 3 inch flap wheel lasts for exactly 144 spokes  This is what i mean when i say they were roughly machined from the factory, possibly by hand, probably by an ape because some of them are hella inconsistent.  And this is what i do(it's really hard to take a picture of reflective stuff)   
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Sep 8, 2015 00:57
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drat, those look spectacular. I've been up close and personal with those wheels numerous times when I changed tires, that's the first set I wouldn't mind having on my personal car.
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Sep 8, 2015 01:42
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Great job! Looks like your wheels might have been machined on a Friday or a Monday, either way someone was grumpy or hungover (or both!).
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Sep 8, 2015 04:30
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mafoose posted:Great job! They come from the 70s, you have to stop drinking to be hungover.
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Sep 8, 2015 04:39
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Looks like the (presumably) casting is inconsistent to me? That face would be turned so you'd really have to try to get depth variation. lovely sand cast would explain.
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Sep 8, 2015 04:42
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American aluminum wheel manufacturing prior to the mid-'80s or so (and in a few cases right into the '90s) was really that bad, just about everything was lovely sand cast with lazy machining. I've tried to make wheels from that era pretty, lost my patience shortly after finishing the first one and got Alberta Wheel to finish the job. It really is a loving ton of work, especially if you're going for a mirror finish like that. Turbo Fondant fucked around with this message at 13:23 on Sep 9, 2015 |
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Sep 9, 2015 05:07
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fInally got around to installing the clock spring for the cruise control. All of the wiring is there right up until the plugs at the bottom of the column. a $13 steering wheel and $30 clock spring later, i've got cruise control. All that's missing is a switch for the brake pressure sensor, 4 wires in the steering column and clock spring, and the buttons on the steering wheel. and withholds that for a $2000 package. jerks. that said, at 70kph and the cruise on, that thing would probably drive clear across the country on a tank of fuel. Without the cruise it's hard to keep the speed because you're either accelerating or engine braking, but the computer controlling itself, it's magical. i'll probably start working again on this thing some time next week. Throwing another $750 into the pot, plans are a small stereo set-up, cloth headliner as long as i have the rear panels off, wiring up the heated seats, finding a cheap box, hitch, stealth mount trailer brake controller, gas tank skid plate, front air dam, and filling out gaps in the front end for aero gains. I'm on the fence about either getting a leveling kit for the front, or 1-2" drop shackles on the back to level the stance out. it really comes down to how well those giant winter tires fit. I was also looking at a higher rear gear, but a 3.55 doesn't do a whole lot, and for some reason, the 3.31 ring and pinion is 3 times the price of the 3.55 or 3.73 everywhere. Right now at 70mph i'm turning 2000 rpm, with the 34 inch tire it will be 1827rpm, and with a 3.31 it would be 1622rpm.
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Oct 15, 2015 03:52
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I always wondered what the point of a leveling kit is, I see them on a lot of trucks for sale. Are they mostly just aesthetics?
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Oct 21, 2015 19:46
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dreesemonkey posted:I always wondered what the point of a leveling kit is, I see them on a lot of trucks for sale. Are they mostly just aesthetics? In most cases, yes, it's to get the truck sitting level. in some cases like the 04-08 f-150s, leveling it by raising the front allows you to run 35" tires all around. Depending on how my 34" winter tires on this thing, i'll either bring the front up 2 inches to clear them and sit level, or the back down 2 inches to have it sit level with full wheel wells. It's hard to get a good picture with the sky going nuts right now, but this is basically what it should look like, before and after. basically from redneck rake to nice and level. alternatively, i've found that putting 1500lbs in the bed levels it out quite nicely, although that hurts fuel economy and acceleration.   Those tires are about 31" tall and 9.25" wide, and my winters are about 34" tall and 11" wide, so with the back end lowered a bit, they should completely fill out the wheel wells, although it wouldn't be the end of the world if the front end had to come up a bit. It would be neat to lower the truck a few inches front and back, but then it moves from an $80 leveling kit to $1500 suspension, and comprimised load capacity/curb hopping ability.
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Oct 23, 2015 01:47
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My old box was busted as gently caress, and everybody wanted $1000 for a take-off. seemed kinda dumb paying $1000 for a box when a whole truck is $750, so i held firm with the statement that i would pay $200 for a box. My dad found one for $300 on kijiji, and by the time i got off my rear end to get ahold of the guy he dropped it to $200. He had it listed as "damaged', but all the damage is cosmetic in an area you can't see. it was in a front end collision with a toolbox in the back, so the front is bowed, and there were a couple broken spotwelds underneath, but nothing essential. the rest of the box is fuckin mint. The reason for, and solution to the replacement.  the damage that takes it from a $1000 box to a $200 box  changed 1 bracket over from the old box. This box and tailgate were built 15 years apart. 3 cheers for lazy engineers.  So so close to becoming a legend. Anybody who's ever pulled a box off a ford probably knows how lucky i was to even get 5.  there's a little bit of a paint difference, mainly because the truck paint is dirty as gently caress. i think i missed my weather window to paint the truck this year.  Disclaimer: i'm a lazy rear end in a top hat, a flat forced me to install my winter tires a little early, and i haven't done anything as far as sanding or polishing on em. but gently caress it, here it goes. First off, size difference.  Yeah, that's some meat. They changed the offset in 05, so i needed spacers to be able to steer. i know a lot of AIers are very anti-spacer, but there are guys who tow 12000lb horse trailers with these exact spacers. hubcentric, very tight tolerances. Unfortunately, i have to machine the rears a bit because of the axle size, full floating axle and all that, i was told there's basically a 50/50 chance they would need to be modified a bit. Still, the big tires brought me down to a little under 1800RPM on the highway, and 1100RPM at 70kph.  mounted in front, turned lock to lock. There's a little spot on the drivers side inner fender where they need to self clearance. the rest, it's so close to rubbing but really won't The place i was worried about is the trans cooler, and it's a good inch away. so, the question, can you fit 34"x11" tires on a stock 2wd F250? yes. can you fit 34x12 or 35x11? nope. The tires seem to be the absolute limitation, or in other words, the perfect tire.      Just enough clearance on the fender to hold a can of cologne Pretty much the best stance you can possibly get in the front of a truck you still want to hop curbs with.   I mounted the rears without the spacers for now. the outside sits about where the smaller tires do, the inside a lot closer to the box. no clearance issues on the rear, but the truck will look a whole lot better with the back 4 inches wider.   It's somewhat obvious that the rear track is narrower but the fronts fill it out so well. The big wheels and 275/65 rubber make the truck look smaller, but it does highlight that the rear needs to come down a few inches.     $200 on the box, $400 for winter tires/wheels, $40 in stripper, sandpaper, and a mushroom buff. $250 for the spacers. That leaves me....about -$140 for a stereo and some headliner cloth. I'm terrible at this.
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Nov 8, 2015 07:51
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This thread gets better every time you post. There's a very talented shadetree body man who brings cars to my work for alignments. Every truck he pulls up in is made of different years. He's got an F250 cab like yours attached to a dual rear wheel bed. Then the other day he shows up in a e150 on a beefed up what must have been F250 frame. He says all the time that ford trucks and vans are legos.
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Nov 8, 2015 15:46
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I don't know if that thing needs actual paint on the cab, dude. Pick up a cheap rear end clay bar kit from PA or CT and see how dirty the bar gets with a single swipe after a good hard wand wash. It might just need a clay bar, power polish with UC and ghetto wax. There's a lot of sandblasting but I think what's there is probably OK. New bed looks fantastic. Who cares if the front wall is a little dimpled? Just another excuse to put burlier poo poo in it.
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Nov 8, 2015 17:34
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The truck looks pretty drat awesome, but I am particularly impressed with those turbine wheels. How's the paint on the creases on the front of the new bed? My only concern would be rust, but whatever, it was two hundred bucks eh.
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Nov 8, 2015 17:53
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Good point, might be time for a bit of Endura or POR Hardnose industrial white to fill in the cracks. Take forever to cure in this temperature though. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 19:06 on Nov 8, 2015 |
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Nov 8, 2015 19:04
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SouthsideSaint posted:This thread gets better every time you post. There's a very talented shadetree body man who brings cars to my work for alignments. Every truck he pulls up in is made of different years. He's got an F250 cab like yours attached to a dual rear wheel bed. Then the other day he shows up in a e150 on a beefed up what must have been F250 frame. He says all the time that ford trucks and vans are legos. Yeah, the F250/F350 4x4 stuff basically bolts onto the vans. even with interior refreshes like in 05-07, or completely different interiors like 08+ bolt on. there's a little fabrication to convert a 99 truck to an 08 or 11 front end, but it's not that hard and everything lines up. Seat Safety Switch posted:I don't know if that thing needs actual paint on the cab, dude. Pick up a cheap rear end clay bar kit from PA or CT and see how dirty the bar gets with a single swipe after a good hard wand wash. It might just need a clay bar, power polish with UC and ghetto wax. There's a lot of sandblasting but I think what's there is probably OK. It doesn't even really need a clay bar. where i cleaned the CN stickers off the door with xylene is bright, bright white. Even them it would still be a boring white. One of the big reasons i was going to go the bedliner route was for a little more defense against hail, and that won't be an issue for another 6 months now. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:The truck looks pretty drat awesome, but I am particularly impressed with those turbine wheels. How's the paint on the creases on the front of the new bed? My only concern would be rust, but whatever, it was two hundred bucks eh. The paint is chipped off but the zinc dip is still intact. Doesn't seem to be any bare metal exposed. I've still got some of the bedliner i used on the door jams, but it needs a 5*c+ low humidity day to cure. Powershift fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Nov 8, 2015 |
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Nov 8, 2015 19:09
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That thing looks awesome. Still plan on keeping it or flipping it? No doubt you could make some good coin on it now.
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Nov 8, 2015 20:12
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