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I have a beefy desktop I use as a Plex server and also for downloading shows and movies. Sometimes I use it for Nvidia Gamestream to the nvidia Shield boxes I have in my house. I have to wipe Windows 10 and reinstall it but I was considering using Windows Server 2019 due to all the issues I have with Android detecting my smb shares and such. However, a coworker is telling me that Server 2019 is terrible for gaming because it doesn't have DirectX, drivers can be different, and Steam might not even work on Server 2019. I admit I know absolutely nothing about this, and I was always under the impression that Server 2019 was just Windows 10 with a bunch of options added, like 10 Pro compared to 10 Home. On a scale of 1 to 10, how much of a dumbass am I? I'm guessing I should just stick with regular Windows 10?
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Aug 7, 2019 20:23
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I have a Windows 10 "gaming PC" in my basement that mainly exists to run Plex, but I also use it for the NVidia Gamestream feature of Geforce video cards where I can have games stream to the NVidia Shield TV and NVidia Shield Portable devices in my house (very useful since I can't really sit in front of a PC any more these days like I used to). For whatever reason, a particular game I have is required to be ran in Administrator mode to work. Since it's not a Steam game, I had to manually add the EXE in Nvidia's control panel. Anyway, because this game requires Administrator privileges, it will never open up in Gamestream because it's waiting for the UAC prompt to be accepted. I have to remote into the computer every time and click "OK" to get the game to start (or run downstairs, hook up the keyboard, hook up the monitor, and then click "OK"). Is there some way to disable the UAC prompt for this single solitary EXE? I found a few guides online; one creates a shortcut for the EXE that bypasses UAC however this will not work for me because the Nvidia software does not permit adding shortcuts; it has to be an EXE. There was another thing I saw recommended that required messing around with Task Scheduler but I tried it and it didn't work. Gave some error about the game not being able to function (the article warned me that a lot of programs are not compatible with that method). Anyway, short of disabling UAC completely, is there a way in Windows 10 Pro to disable the UAC prompt on a single EXE so I can enjoy this game from the comfort of my toilet? Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Dec 13, 2020 |
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Dec 13, 2020 17:28
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The only program I ever made was an AOL punter back in 1996. I wish I was that smart. The game (and all games) is installed in the D:/ because my C:/ is a pretty small SSD, unfortunately.
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Dec 13, 2020 19:37
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If you CTRL+ALT+DEL Windows Explorer and it gets rid of the start menu and taskbar (literally an empty space where the taskbar is supposed to be), is there any way to bring it back without rebooting?
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Feb 10, 2021 15:37
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Zenostein posted:Assuming the run command is still in the taskmanager, running explorer.exe from there should bring everything back. It used to work like that, at any rate. Rinkles posted:i believe you can run "explorer" from the task manager via file > run new task Woah, that worked! Thanks a million!
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Feb 10, 2021 15:47
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Ruflux posted:If you select Windows Explorer from the task manager's main (processes) view, it also gives you the option of restart instead of end task, which makes the process of fixing weird shell graphical glitches etc. much faster. If you have an Explorer window open it'll be listed under Apps upfront but even if not it's there under Windows processes. In details view it'll still do end task, though. Thank you! I will do restart from now on. Fame Douglas posted:Also, to get to the task manager directly, press Ctrl + Shift + Esc. Yeah for some reason, Task Manager was saying that Windows Explorer was using 70% of my i7 9700k's CPU  So I force closed it without realizing it was going to take the taskbar and start menu with it. I still have like a day's worth of work up so I didn't want to have to reboot to bring it back. This new trick is super handy; I never knew you could load stuff rom Task Manager! I also have another small question that google isn't really helping with (maybe I am the only one that cares about this). It used to be, as of like 3 months ago, that if you right clicked "This PC" and chose properties, it would bring you to a standard WindowsNT-style properties window where you could do things like enter Device Manager, advanced system settings, etc. Like this:  As of a few months ago, right clicking This PC and choosing properties brings you to a Metro app. I know you can access it via some wacky means (start, run, enter: explorer.exe shell:::{bb06c0e4-d293-4f75-8a90-cb05b6477eee}.) but is there any way to put it back into the "This PC", properties menu? I've been living with a lot of the Metro UI changes but this one kind of annoys me a bit to be honest. Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 16:07 on Feb 10, 2021 |
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Feb 10, 2021 16:03
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Klyith posted:Uhhh, yeah technically there's a way. Just force of habit from the past 20+ years any time I want to go to device manager. It's not the end of the world but since I am never on a tablet and I never use my touch screen I really prefer the "see everything at once without scrolling" luxury of the non-metro windows is all. edit: I never knew you could access device manager by right clicking the start menu! I'll just do that from now on. Thanks! 
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Feb 10, 2021 16:38
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Fame Douglas posted:Third-party shell extensions (tons of programs install them) are usually to blame for something like this: Get Autoruns https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/autoruns and check the "Explorer" tab. I really appreciate it! I've actually never heard of Autoruns despite being a Windows user since the 3.1 days. This is what I see in the Explorer tab:   How can I tell which ones are causing the issue? And how do I remove it from the context menu....just uncheck it? Sorry for these stupid questions.
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Feb 10, 2021 17:21
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Thanks a billion. I removed literally everything except winrar, 7zip, and Nvidia.
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Feb 10, 2021 18:07
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OK I will remove it. Something weird I noticed; I have UltraSearch (and some other stuff) in my context menus but the program does not show up in Explorer in Autostarts?
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Feb 10, 2021 18:12
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Hey all, my wife's Window's 10 laptop has been running very poorly the past few days. Opening a program takes forever, opening explorer windows often has to be forced closed, etc. I tried to run "DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /ScanHealth" in both PowerShell and a command prompt, and both times it just sits there doing nothing. I thought maybe something went wonky out of nowhere with her SSD so I ran the Samsung Magician software and this is what it said:  I'm no expert but that write speed is abysmal and could be causing this, right? I would imagine that number should be at least 10 times higher, right? If so is this just the SSD dying on us, or could something else cause it (like an errant program running in the background that would also give results like this)? The drive seems to pass all SMART tests just fine so I don't know what to think.
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Mar 19, 2021 21:47
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Koskun posted:Could be the drive, or the controller on the motherboard. Thanks for the reply! I don't think it's the controller because it's a ThinkPad with two SATA hard drives and the other drive (mechanical) has normal speeds for a mechanical drive. The temps seem fine, thank you for the suggestion though. The weird thing is I just enabled something called "RAPID mode" in Samsung Magician, and then rebooted. Now the computer is flying again, with no errors or lockups. I ran the test again and am getting 540/385 instead of 543/5. But the weird thing is Samsung Magician is giving this error:  So the thing isn't even enabled, but it somehow fixed it? Unless the reboot somehow fixed the issue. Though that doesn't make sense either because 5 previous reboots (before turning RAPID on) didn't fix anything.
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Mar 19, 2021 22:18
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namlosh posted:If it happens again, open performance monitor and move to the disks tab and look for poo poo flooding the drive with writes Klyith posted:RAPID uses system RAM memory as a drive cache, which means your drive appears to be crazy fast. This is just masking whatever problem is causing the abysmal write performance. While troubleshooting the drive, you should leave it off. Thanks a ton! I wasn't aware of the disk writing thing in Task Manager even though I'm in Task Manager all the time. I appreciate the tip! I guess I never looked there before. I'll disable RAPID. Trim is in fact enabled. I have no clue what caused this to rear its ugly head seemingly out of nowhere. The SMART test thing was from Magician, but I will check in another program too. I actually can't even believe the computer even started with a write speed of 5mbps.
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Mar 19, 2021 23:55
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GreenNight posted:This new patch loving up printing is loving up my poo poo for real. People at work can't print checks now. Removing the March CU doesn't fix it. None of the new patches from Microsoft fixes it. Might be giving them new machines where my image is from last year and turn off Windows Update. Oh wow, I didn't know this was a thing. Yeah for the first time since I got this Canon laserjet printer 4 years ago, it just started failing at printing like two days ago and I could not figure out what the hell was going on since we changed nothing in my home. At least because of your post I now know why.
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Mar 21, 2021 04:46
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It's crazy how printing hasn't really changed from the Windows 9x days. Something stuck in your printer queue? Highlight it and delete it a dozen times before it maybe goes away (usually requires a reboot). I've been doing the printer queue dance for 25 years now.
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Mar 22, 2021 21:22
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Falcon2001 posted:Let's take a step back here now that we've resulted to insults: I'm not saying people are dumb for this, I'm just literally curious about the user patterns which is why I asked. I fully admit to being a bit of a grognard so take it with a grain of salt, but since you asked I vastly prefer this:  (OpenShell) to this:  I just like having it where you can see everything at once instead of having to scroll forever like in the stock Win10 start menu. I can go right to a control panel item without even opening the actual control panel. Also there's a lot of times where I am looking for a program, but I literally don't know the name of the program, so being able to see everything at once is a lot faster. And it's not like the stock Win10 start menu is completely gone, either. If I ever want to use it, I just press shift+win and it pops up. Also chalk me up as one of those people who has varied results in the stock Win10 start menu's search function. When I want to turn on "Night light", I type in "night" and press enter and it's literally a 50/50 crapshoot as to whether it opens Night Light or Peggle Nights. Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Apr 5, 2021 |
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Apr 5, 2021 13:14
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Internet Explorer posted:I feel like the new Settings / Control panel would have been fine if Microsoft didn't stretch the transition out over 5+ years. How it has taken them so long, I will never know. There's still a lot that's only in classic Control Panel and there are a lot of new Settings pages that still don't have feature parity with the classic Control panel. Just seems pretty crazy to me. Is there any reason they're even doing this? I kinda understood it in the Windows 8 days when they were trying to hone in on the iPad's market share, but I think tablet PCs that require an interface like Metro were pretty much fads like netbooks and 3-d televisions. I don't know of a single person at my job that uses the touch screen.
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Apr 5, 2021 19:09
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Javid posted:I regard this as them playing the hand MS dealt them. They make it AGGRESSIVELY difficult to take back any amount of control over updates; if just tearing the whole update system out is the minimum effort required to get it to go away and quit re-enabling itself like spyware, people who feel strongly about it will do that instead of just changing to manually approving them like we could in 7. Klyith posted:Group policy editor, Windows Update, Configure Automatic Updates, Enabled. I used option 3 for a while but I sort of recently (like maybe a year ago) found a better alternative (in my opinion). Basically it simply renames the auto-reboot executable. You get all the updates, downloaded and installed automatically, with the only difference being it will never force reboot on you. Hell you even get that nice little Windows with the little red dot icon in your taskbar signaling a new update is installed and waiting for a reboot. But instead of hitting "remind me in 7 days" or whatever, you just reboot it whenever you are ready (which might even be less than 7 days). This is the guide if you are interested: https://www.joe0.com/2019/10/17/how-to-prevent-windows-10-auto-restart-new-instructions-oct-2019/ I've been using that method for over a year now and have had zero issues, it's never reverted, and I still get all my updates automatically. It just never reboots on me unless I physically click "start, reboot". Fame Douglas posted:Remember when Windows 8 didn't even have a start button, just the "move the mouse in the bottom left corner to open the fullscreen tile menu" gesture? I actually managed to never have used Windows 8 ever, like not even for a second. Not sure how I managed to avoid it (I am always helping friends and family and co-workers with their broken PCs; it's cool because people repay me in spades with stuff like car repairs and crap like that; hell one time I fixed a co-worker's computer, I refused money when he offered, then like 2 years later he ran new electrical wire around my entire house for free because he refused money back). Anyway a few months ago a neighbor's computer was crapping itself and I determined it was the hard drive. His computer was on Windows Vista so I figured while I was replacing the dead hard drive, I would install Windows 10 on it. I couldn't, because the built-in graphics card did not have Windows 10 drivers (I tried everything and could not get it out of 640x480 mode). Then I installed Windows 7 and it installed fine but I forgot Windows 7 was EoL so I upgraded it to Windows 8, which was the last version of Windows to have drivers for his graphics card. I was legitimately aghast at how bad it was. I had never used it before; only heard stories. Again, this was very recently (I wanna say May of 2020?) so it was definitely on the latest Windows 8 release. Even after installing OpenShell for him, I couldn't believe how many things were 100% full screen with no way to minimize them (that I could find). When I went to Windows Update on the computer, it literally took up the entire screen, with no minimize, maximize, or whatever the middle one is called on the top right. It was like one of those viruses that take up your whole screen in hopes of tricking people dumb enough to not know about ALT+F4. The only way I could figure out how to "minimize" the screen was win+D; I don't even think alt+tab worked. It was so incredibly jarring that I can't believe they never fixed it for whatever recent revision of Win8 I was using.
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Apr 7, 2021 16:21
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Sininu posted:You should've installed 8.1 instead. It's way better than 8. I don't recall any forced fullscreen crap in that one. Oh yeah, I should have said it was 8.1. There was a ton of forced full screen stuff. I don't recall exactly what it was but a lot of it was display settings type stuff or the Windows update app. No minimize/maximize buttons anywhere and no amount of mouse jiggling did anything for me. I had to alt+tab away from them to get back to what I was doing. Absolutely horrible. That was all Ballmer, right? edit: I just read that Lenovo shipped all their Windows 8 laptops with the Pokki Start button. That's hilarious. Ambaire posted:When I choose to auto-hide the taskbar, is there a way to hide it completely, so the line at the bottom also disappears? I believe it should work if you do this:  If not, OpenShell will make it disappear completely when hidden with some setting changes. Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Apr 7, 2021 |
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Apr 7, 2021 20:20
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Ah okay, I was iffy on the details but remember the name Steve being involved. Literally the only person I ever met that actually uses the touch screen on a Windows laptop is my wife and it's just for webpage scrolling. Not for anything in the actual Windows UI at all.
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Apr 7, 2021 20:35
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Fruits of the sea posted:I had a Surface Pro 1 and... 3? Anyways, they were great for web browsing and reading comic books. Mouse and keyboard or the stylus was 100x faster than touch for anything else though, even in the days of Win 8. I'd probably get another Surface Pro for reading in bed if the prices got a little more reasonable. I researched and got the Boox Max Lumi (https://www.boox.com/maxlumi/) for my bedtime reading because it was the only huge e-ink screen out there with a backlight. You can completely adjust the backlight brightness and color, so blue if you prefer, or yellower if you prefer. It runs Android 10 and the battery has lasted over a month for me so far without a single re-charge. I use the Awful app on it at night time so my eyes don't get fried from reading. It's a bit pricey but it's one of the best purchases I've made in a long time.
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Apr 7, 2021 22:56
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I'm helping fix a friend's pc. The computer kept shutting down before Windows 10 could boot. I replaced the PSU and now all is well except it keeps trying to boot into Automatic Repair (understandable because it couldn't boot into Windows a ton of times before) but now it should boot fine since the PSU has been replaced. Is there any way to stop it from trying to get into automatic repair? I tried F8 a dozen times but that doesn't do anything. It just says "Preparing Automatic Repair" forever (three hours now).
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Apr 8, 2021 14:49
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I put the drive in my desktop and was able to image it just fine, as well as run chkdsk on it and SFC scannow with zero issues.
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Apr 8, 2021 14:59
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Also a small update but I am able to boot into repair mode using a Windows 10 DVD but it literally took an hour. What would cause that? I mean even if his hard drive was dead and I had 256mb of RAM and this was an amd64 processor it shouldn't take an hour. I told the Windows 10 troubleshooter to launch the command prompt so I could run chkdsk /f /r /x on his new imaged ssd and even that looked like it was running slow. Like the command prompt scrolling his file directory contents was slow motion.
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Apr 8, 2021 15:30
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Internet Explorer posted:Like, literally a DVD? Optical media is very slow. That would cause the slowness. Yep an actual DVD. I know they are slower but I've done this a ton of times before using optical media and it usually never takes more than a minute or two to boot. Doctor_Fruitbat posted:Busted CPU, maybe? Not sure how you'd check that though. Yeah this sucks because he's in pretty dire financial straits and on top of all that we just kind of enjoy the hilarity of keeping this PC alive, considering how many times we've fixed it since I first built it for him in like 2009 or something crazy like that. Believe it or not, it was working fine with Windows 10, and for the type of stuff he's doing (paying bills, playing fantasy football, playing me online in Monopoly 95 from Westwood). So I would love to keep this thing running for a bunch of different reasons. The power supply definitely was bad, because the fan on it wasn't even spinning. The computer would shut off about 10 seconds after turning it on. I ordered him a new PSU on ebay and when I plugged it in...it turned off again after 10 seconds. I couldn't believe it, because clearly the old PSU was dead, and the new one was working fine, but it still did that. Then I took out a stick of RAM and it stopped happening. I actually found 4GB (2 2GB sticks) of RAM in my basement that fit this motherboard, and the computer posts just fine. I don't get how the RAM caused it, because both original sticks work fine, just as long as they aren't both in at the same time. But it's not a bad RAM slot because it just accepted these two new sticks I found just fine! I am running chkdsk which says it has 338 hours remaining. If I get Windows 10 to boot I am gonna test the CPU with some sort of program or something. Praying this old dog still works though! We would like to celebrate its 15 year anniversary if possible.
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Apr 8, 2021 15:50
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Internet Explorer posted:Oh, to boot? My bad, I thought you meant to repair. Sorry I did mean to boot, into repair haha. I can't get it to boot because it just stays stuck at "Preparing Automatic Repair". It rightfully wants to repair because his computer improperly shut down like 20 times before bringing it to me. But now that it has a new PSU and new RAM, I just want the computer to attempt to boot normally without trying to fix anything because it's perpetually stuck in thinking it needs to repair, which it shouldn't since there's a new PSU and RAM in it (the computer is no longer powering off randomly on its own). Khablam posted:At this point just use a liveUSB to do some hardware diagnostics. My guess is his bad PSU fried a stick of RAM and corrupted his hard drive a little bit. Could be the CPU, but I don't think it's that just because it's been on for 3 hours now doing chkdsk and it hasn't powered off. One minor annoyance I noticed with Macrium Reflect (I've been using it for years and never noticed this): it doesn't matter if the old image is small, the new drive has to be the same size or larger. So my friend's old HDD was a 640gb WD spinny drive, which I made an image of in Macrium. He bought a 512GB SSD drive. The Macrium image was only 92GB (he doesn't use that much stuff). I kept getting "not enough space" errors when trying to put the old image onto the new drive, even though he had more than enough room. Not the end of the world, but just a head's up to anyone who might do this in the future, hopefully this tidbit saves you some time.
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Apr 8, 2021 16:13
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Actually I just noticed some bulging caps on the motherboard!  The funny thing is it's only those green ones. Every other capacitor on the motherboard looks fine, except for the green ones. I guess they are some lovely brand? He's lucky because I have a huge bag of capacitors from an arcade monitor repair I was going to do a while back and never bothered with. Before I waste my afternoon doing this, would a couple bad caps cause Windows 10 to boot poorly? Edit: by the way I am only assuming those caps are bad. Three look like they have rust on top and one looks like it's bulging, but there's no crud around the bottom of any of them. Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Apr 8, 2021 |
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Apr 8, 2021 17:02
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Thanks for the replies! Unfortunately after watching two YouTube videos I'm still too dumb to figure out how to test caps with a multimeter (I have no idea what to turn the knobs to, something every video fails to address) so I'm just going to replace all the bulging ones. Unfortunately they seem to be a pretty odd one because they are all 1800uF 6.3V and Amazon is out of stock on them for two weeks. Microcenter by me carries capacitors but none of that exact "size". I really miss Radio Shack sometimes.
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Apr 8, 2021 18:30
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You're the best because a place near me has 2200uF 6.3V but I thought it was only kosher to go above the voltages. I didn't realize you could go higher on the uFs. Off to the store! 🍻
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Apr 8, 2021 18:53
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Thanks for all the replies. Yep I am replacing all 7 of the green ones. And yep my multimeter does not have a capacitor setting. I'm a moron and didn't realize you need a different device for that. That being said, I cannot believe what an absolute nightmare it is removing these capacitors. I have liquid flux, regular flux, a Hakko soldering station, a solder sucker, and even desoldering wick and I can't believe how impossible it is to remove these things even with all that. I always seem to get one leg off just fine but the other one refuses to get all the solder out of the hole so a piece of the leg won't budge. I legit spent three hours on one of them, only for a piece of the leg to still be stuck in the hole. I added a bunch of new solder too to make it easier to remove but nothing worked. I just ordered a Hakko FR301 desoldering station for $245 on Amazon which apparently is a steal because the amount of aggravation and cursing was not worth it. I've desoldered the PPU off of an NES (which is supposed to be famously difficult) in a tenth of the time it took me to get one and a half capacitors off. Hell one of the legs was so impossible to remove that I had to run a wire from the other side of the motherboard just so the new capacitor could get wired in.  I'm not doing that six more times. I'm sure this Hakko thing is gonna zap em right off in seconds but man I can't believe how difficult this was. I soldered an HDMI port on my Dreamcast for chrissakes! I'll let you all know in two or so days if the cap replacements fixed it Thanks again for all the help. Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Apr 8, 2021 |
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Apr 8, 2021 22:03
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stevewm posted:Modern PC motherboards are usually six or more layers. One or two of those layers will be a ground or power distribution layer of solid copper. Those layers will suck every bit of heat out of your soldering iron making it very difficult to desolder through-hole parts, particularly with desoldering wick. Modern lead-free solder also doesn't help here. Wow thank you for the explanation. I thought I was going crazy. I added the solder to the bottom part of the motherboard, where the capacitor legs barely show up. Is this what you're referring to? I don't think I'd be able to get solder on the other parts of the legs as there's really no room under the capacitor for the iron. The funny thing too is I never really looked at what a capacitor is doing in general and I still kind of can't tell (I know they like store power or something). I was checking continuity and I noticed all these capacitors are kind of all just connected together on the same metal "plane". I actually don't even know why polarity matters! It looks like everything is just all connected to one common ground spot on the motherboard or something! (I know this is going well beyond the scope of the thread by the way!)
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Apr 8, 2021 23:21
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doctorfrog posted:Sounds to me like that $245 got him a nice soldering station he can use for hobbies, he's helping a friend, it's fun for him, and he's learning things. OTOH, I lurk the obsolete tech thread a bunch and none of this strikes me as out of the ordinary. Yeah it's exactly everything you just mentioned. Plus I needed a good desoldering tool anyway because like I previously mentioned, I have and own arcade cabinet monitors I want to fix. Dylan16807 posted:The voltage converter that powers the cpu outputs little bursts of power, so capacitors are used to stabilize the voltage and average it out over a fraction of a second. Cool to know! Thank you! I am familiar with resistors and their purposes, it just seemed confusing that capacitors are all connected to one another and I couldn't figure out their exact purpose! Chumbawumba4ever97 fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Apr 9, 2021 |
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Apr 9, 2021 16:01
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Dylan16807 posted:The amount of capacitance you need to smooth out a hundred watts is inherently bulky, so the choice is between a bunch of medium-size capacitors all connected together or some really big ones. Medium-size ones are easier to deal with, easier to hook up with lower total resistance, and they let you get better placement. For argument's sake (and so I understand it better) what would happen if I removed these bulging caps and literally just bridged them? Of course I'm not going to do that. I'm just curious.
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Apr 9, 2021 22:32
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I doubt anyone cares but I figured I'd post a follow up, unfortunately replacing the bulging capacitors didn't fix his motherboard. In fact, with the bulging capacitors the computer would at least attempt to boot. After I replaced the caps I couldn't even get a video signal from the computer at all. So I managed to make it worse somehow haha I definitely recommend the Hakko desolderer though. I didn't use it for the first two caps and it was a hellish nightmare. The other five came off like butter. Just placed a bid on ebay for the identical motherboard. Looks like I am going to win it for like twenty five bucks. The model number is identical yet I noticed there's none of these caps on the board at all, so there appears to be a later revision or something with less sata ports and less lovely capacitors which is cool. Replacing the motherboard is pretty much cheating at this point but it's still pretty fun to keep this dinosaur running. That's the one thing I always gave Microsoft a lot of credit for. Aside from the early release of Vista, Windows tends to work faster with newer releases. Unlike OSX which usually makes your computer run a little shittier with each OS update.
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Apr 11, 2021 20:05
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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:I bet you checked this, but are the new caps in the correct orientation? They're polarized and can only go one way. Thanks a billion but yep I was aware. I'm guessing I might have fried something on the motherboard by leaving the soldering iron there too long. It was ridiculous pulling out the old caps before I got the desoldering iron so I probably just pulled on something on the motherboard too hard. Or this thing was just on its way out anyway. Thanks for checking though! Rexxed posted:I had a PC running with an old dual core athlon 64 for years because I have a HP ScanJet 4c flatbed scanner from the mid 90s that uses SCSI. I couldn't seem to find a good PCI-E SCSI card or inexpensive SCSI adapter that would support the old SCSI interface better than the Adaptec AHA-2940AU I have in there. The caps were bad and it was a little power hungry so I eventually just found a sandy bridge board with a PCI slot on it as a replacement. It's running windows 7 32 bit to support the ancient HP software for the scanner but it works well. I'm debating a trial upgrade to windows 10 32 bit at some point, but I'll probably just image the disk first and revert if it doesn't handle the scsi card. It's funny you say that because this motherboard actually has a parallel port and floppy drive connector. I swear it runs Windows 10 absolutely fine for what he uses it for. I think I saw a video once on YouTube of someone running Windows 10 on a 133mhz PC.
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Apr 11, 2021 23:08
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Speaking of updates, I got my friend's PC back up and running (replacement motherboard came yesterday) and I cannot for the life of me run an update on this thing. I run Windows Update and it says he hasn't updated since October. So I check for updates, it downloads it, and begins to install it. Every single time it gets to 100% or whatever and the update fails with error code 0x800f0831. I've tried every solution I see on Google. I manually downloaded the update using Update Assistant and it says "thank you for updating to the latest version" even though it's not. I tried all the fun DISM repair commands and all that, still no dice. Anyone have any other ideas of what I could try? He's going to be stuck on an outdated version of Windows 10 forever if I don't figure this out.
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Apr 14, 2021 21:51
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Internet Explorer posted:
I'm gonna have to wipe out a thumb drive for that? That's honestly a huge inconvenience but I guess I'll give it a shot. Once I create the thumb drive, how do I go about attempting to install an update from it?
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Apr 14, 2021 22:19
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Internet Explorer posted:You do not need to put it on a thumb drive. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10 Thank you. Just so I know I got this right, I am "upgrading" even though I am not really upgrading?
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Apr 14, 2021 22:37
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No that's actually a really good theory because his computer kept crashing like crazy, most likely from a faulty motherboard. And I just realized now the third DISM command failed, probably because of corrupt files due to the computer forcefully shutting down so many times. I'm currently extracting the install.wim file from a Windows 10 disc to point DISM its way to see if that fixes the issues before going the install media route.
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Apr 14, 2021 23:07
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 19:02 |
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Internet Explorer posted:Yes, modern Windows is a lot better about doing in-place upgrades, and that's essentially what is happening. OK so I did this and now it's "installing windows 10". Is this what it was supposed to do? Is he going to lose anything like saved Chrome data or desktop shortcuts?
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Apr 15, 2021 00:11
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