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BrokenKnucklez posted:Lets keep the engine chat out, more welding projects! I need to upload some of my latest repairs.  Until the 21st of December, I won't be able to weld anything but I want to learn/do things that are welding related until then. Just read stuff on websites?
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Nov 12, 2015 16:56
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Read and watch some you tube videos. There's a couple mentioned back in the beginning of the thread, chuckee2009, Mr tig, and others have lots of good info. Didn't want to double post, so here's some rust repair.    BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Nov 12, 2015 |
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Nov 12, 2015 17:40
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Is there an advantage to stitch welding (other than using less material and saving time) over just running a bead down the whole seam?
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Dec 9, 2015 05:23
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Safety Dance posted:Is there an advantage to stitch welding (other than using less material and saving time) over just running a bead down the whole seam? Weight. Complexity. Time is a big one, especially on thin material, as you have to wait for it to cool so it doesn't warp.
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Dec 9, 2015 05:46
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Warping mainly. Thin sheetmetal easily warps and it's no fun having to fix a wavy panel because you ran too hot of a bead.
the spyder fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Dec 9, 2015 |
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Dec 9, 2015 07:24
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the spyder posted:Warping mainly. This sheetmetal easily warps and it's no fun having to fix a wavy panel because you ran too hot of a bead. This, but mainly cost if you're selling what you're welding.
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Dec 9, 2015 07:33
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If time and cost wasn't an issue and you wanted to stiffen up a chassis would full seam welding be the way to go? It seems like the additional weight wouldn't be that much and assuming you stitch welded then came back and filled in the gaps warping should be easier to control.
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Dec 9, 2015 13:57
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NitroSpazzz posted:If time and cost wasn't an issue and you wanted to stiffen up a chassis would full seam welding be the way to go? It seems like the additional weight wouldn't be that much and assuming you stitch welded then came back and filled in the gaps warping should be easier to control. Yeah, this is basically what Subaru and Mitsubishi (at least) did to put together competition shells from street cars. Just average out the spot welds until it was basically a full seam weld. Takes time, though, and adds weight. It also changes the crash dynamics of the unibody, I would imagine, so I don't recommend it for your daily driver. I know that (at least) djcommie and Slow Is Fast have both done a series of seam welding jobs on their race cars; djcommie more to fix tearing firewalls/strut towers under race loads on the Charade than necessarily to stiffen the chassis. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Dec 10, 2015 |
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Dec 10, 2015 00:58
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I'll have to look into the factory competition shells from various companies and see how they did it. This would be for a fully caged track car so crash structure isn't as big of a concern. I'll have to figure out if it's worth the trade off in weight even though it should be compensated for with composite panels and Plexiglas. Also need to figure out if it's really going to be worth the time/weight since I'm not going to be pushing high horsepower or having big aero loads.
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Dec 10, 2015 15:21
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Raluek posted:They have a tiny showroom in the front of the warehouse. I've only been in there once, to get stick electrodes, but the dude pointed me to the section and I grabbed the thing and was rung up as a walk-in customer. Not sure if there is a discount for having an account (wouldn't be surprised), and I assume they could get stuff out of the back if you need something not on display. Like, say, your average auto parts store? Funny related story: One time I had a fan belt blow, and happened to pull into a tire shop or something that had an account with the local parts store, but didn't actually sell belts. I talked them into ordering a belt on a rush from the nearest location of the parts store, and 20 minutes later the lil' Ford Ranger pulled up with my belt. Paying the delivery driver was ... complicated -- IIRC, I ended up paying $5 over the shop's cost (but still below retail/labor) as a bribe to the tire shop manager to falsify the forms and juggle the cash I gave him to bill it COD to the shop's account, and installed it myself.
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Dec 11, 2015 03:30
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Like, say, your average auto parts store? Sort of, but way smaller. Like maybe a third of the size of an Autozone, with shelves that only go waist high.
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Dec 11, 2015 04:24
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I know goons don't like reddit in general, but there is a whole sub for welding porn. http://www.reddit.com/r/WeldPorn
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Dec 11, 2015 18:20
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Well I pulled my shock x-member from the frame and took the frame with it. Im assuming this is because I got the frame too hot. Going to fishplate and re-weld. Any other insight? 
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Dec 11, 2015 20:35
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mafoose posted:drat I should have posted a picture of the fence posts I did with my 130 Clarke. They were 1/4" thick and my weaves came out beautifully considering the lack of practice. All the flux curled up and flaked off easily. Its not a sucessful fabrication project until you've set yourself alight at least once. Setting fire to a nomex jacket was a highlight for me!
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Dec 12, 2015 09:41
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