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So we begin the tale with a 1994 Ford Ranger as pictured below: We end with the Ranger getting rearended and the other guys insurance saying its totalled. Offers of cash lead to a craigslist post for a 1970 Plymouth Duster with some perks.  Being a newb to carbed cars I asked the mighty AI for suggestions. The response was approval and admonishment for not getting it sooner. So here we stand:  Work needs to be done to get the beast running smooth again and gas friendly. PO fuckery needs to be undone and reset to factory. Amen and Bless the god of the V8. Edit: Mods can you change the tag to the 70's tag? Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 01:35
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 12:54 |
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What's going on with those seats? They look kind of... out of place. What's in the cards V8-wise?
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Oct 4, 2015 02:42
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I would say first get it registered and get at title so you know it's legally yours and road legal before putting any money into it. My first suspect for the rough idle would be a bad 40 year old vacuum line. visual inspection, spray carb cleaner around the engine bay and listen for an idle surge. it could also be the reason it doesn't run well without the choke. Then pull the valve cover and look for any obvious reasons for the valve tick. a broken rocker, bent pushrod, broken valve spring, or just general slop in the valvetrain. I would imagine at this point it needs a new valve cover gasket anyways. It would also be a good idea to change out any fluids you don't know where recently changed. What is your budget/plan? I don't want to push anybody into the type of terrible decision i would want to make, but you can get a 2JZ-GTE + auto or RB25DET with a 5 speed for about $2k.
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Oct 4, 2015 02:45
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No more woe! I don't have much personal experience with cleaning carbs, but I've heard the Berryman Chem-Dip poo poo is the bomb. Get a model number off the carb, pick up a rebuild kit (probably cheap; assuming 2 barrel), find a guide and go nuts. I remember TrouserChili did a post a while back about rebuilding a carb, but I'm sure it's long archived. They'll probably be a bit spendy, but try to track down a factory service manual set for the car. Here's both volumes for about $70 http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Service-Manual-Plymouth-Barracuda/dp/B009NXYKN8. Should include good info on tuning the carb once it's rebuilt. In the meantime, change all the fluids, filters, and nasty rubber poo poo. I'm so glad you bought this thing. IOC: Requesting tag change to 70s. In short: 
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Oct 4, 2015 02:52
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Get up early, brave the rain, bring it to C&O in the morning! Love to see it! If you can't make it for that, I'm handy with the carburetion, and hep to the jive on that era of Mopar. Looks like a fun car!
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Oct 4, 2015 02:52
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Raluek posted:What's going on with those seats? They look kind of... out of place. Seats were out of another car he said(Chevy Taho maybe?). They fit and are comfy so that's okay with me. First things first are getting it registered and titled and then getting the carb adjusted and anything that needs replacing replaced.
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Oct 4, 2015 02:55
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Powershift posted:My first suspect for the rough idle would be a bad 40 year old vacuum line. visual inspection, spray carb cleaner around the engine bay and listen for an idle surge. it could also be the reason it doesn't run well without the choke. This. Target any pinches in the vacuum lines and the connection ends then move on from there. What's the rough idle like? does it surge? does it idle high? does it stall out?
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Oct 4, 2015 03:00
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jhcain posted:Get up early, brave the rain, bring it to C&O in the morning! Love to see it! Whats C&O?
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Oct 4, 2015 03:00
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1500quidporsche posted:This. Target any pinches in the vacuum lines and the connection ends then move on from there. What's the rough idle like? does it surge? does it idle high? does it stall out? When not in gear it idles rough and loud, When gear changes it smooths out. I'll get a recording to post.
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Oct 4, 2015 03:02
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Caffeine and Octane- moved to perimeter mall this year. First Sunday of the month, and it's gotten pretty big this year- good mix of older iron, real exotics and of course the tuner crowd. If you make it out, any early car will get waved into the NW corner where the cool kids hang out. The organizers appreciate anyone that brings out something from before this decade.
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Oct 4, 2015 03:06
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Senior Funkenstien posted:When not in gear it idles rough and loud, When gear changes it smooths out. I'll get a recording to post. Not much in the way of vacuum hoses in that car, sounds like a mixture issue- could be a deteriorated gasket, or random looseness. Should be simple enough to sort out, just apply patience and carb cleaner!
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Oct 4, 2015 03:09
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For the carburetor, you might just want to source a Super Slant Six kit from a junkyard. The /6 is pretty choked off with the stock 1bbl, a 2bbl will wake it right up, and give you better gas mileage to boot. As for the valves, how bad is the noise? Slant sixes are noisy motors, so if it sounds like a sewing machine everything is probably OK. It would be a good idea to adjust the valves anyway, though. Here's a link to the adjustment procedure: http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?p=72139 This site also has a wealth of other information about the slant six. Just note that the Six is one of those motors that needs the valves adjusted while it's running. Rawrl fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 03:39
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Fuuuck yes. I've always wanted a Duster, i'm going to be living vicariously through you and this thread 
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Oct 4, 2015 03:44
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Rawrl posted:For the carburetor, you might just want to source a Super Slant Six kit from a junkyard. The /6 is pretty choked off with the stock 1bbl, a 2bbl will wake it right up, and give you better gas mileage to boot. I was looking at a 2 barrel carb to go in it and give it a better fuel mix for sure. I'll definetly look into adjusting the valves with that link though so thanks!
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Oct 4, 2015 03:45
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Man I love Dusters, you found a super nice example of one. Can't wait to see more pictures of the car!
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Oct 4, 2015 04:08
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Terrible Robot posted:Man I love Dusters, you found a super nice example of one. Can't wait to see more pictures of the car! I have more. Here's some internal engine bay. 
Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 04:11
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Those screws for the air cleaner bracket thing sure are something.
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Oct 4, 2015 04:16
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Raluek posted:Those screws for the air cleaner bracket thing sure are something. For drat sure. Edit: Thats PO fuckery Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Oct 4, 2015 |
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Oct 4, 2015 04:16
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Looking forward to seeing more on this. Duster buddies   I heard the factory service manuals are easy to find online.
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Oct 4, 2015 04:26
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Caffeine and Octane is tomorrow so I may show up. May be a bit early for my liking though.
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Oct 4, 2015 04:29
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Carb rebuild would be my starting point. I'm willing to bet those screws are just the starting point of PO messing with the carb.
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Oct 4, 2015 04:30
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Caffeine and Octane is tomorrow so I may show up. May be a bit early for my liking though. If you're not after a primo spot, you can show up later, of course. If you make it, look for a long green '66 dodge.
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Oct 4, 2015 04:32
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So I sprayed carb cleaner all over the engine bay and didn't have a surge that I could hear. I'm searching for a valve cover gasket so I can pull the cover and check the lashing on the valves and make sure there's no broken springs or anything. All fluids need to be changes since there's dirty antifreeze in the rad and dirty brake fluid in the master cylinder. Take a look at this pic. To the right of the spring on the left is a wire that is ziptied in place and holding the choke partially open. Is that wire meant to be there or is it another example of PO fuckery? 
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Oct 4, 2015 19:57
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That should be going to a heat activated spring that would pull the choke open as the engine warms up. Can't tell from that shot if it'll work, but the spring pulling it open says "no." Where in the metro are you? If you're somewhere near the top end, I'd be glad to lend a hand, if you need.
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Oct 4, 2015 20:45
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jhcain posted:That should be going to a heat activated spring that would pull the choke open as the engine warms up. Can't tell from that shot if it'll work, but the spring pulling it open says "no." I live on the south side in Clayton.
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Oct 4, 2015 22:31
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Now I don't have much slant six carb knowledge but that blocked off line probably went to what helped set the choke. Also the little braket on the bottom doesn't look original. Where the spring is attached at. I would say someone didn't wanna replace the vacuum device for the choke and Jethroed something together.
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Oct 4, 2015 22:36
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Just find an old RV with a 440 in it and slap that bitch in there Roadkill style 
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Oct 4, 2015 23:43
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Funk if you don't watch HotRod Garage on YouTube, you should! They deal with like nothing but cars with carbs and there's bound to be some great stuff in there. T1g4h posted:Fuuuck yes. I've always wanted a Duster, i'm going to be living vicariously through you and this thread
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Oct 5, 2015 14:42
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Senior Funkenstien posted:I live on the south side in Clayton. I'm in Fayetteville, so if you need a hand one evening or on the weekend, PM me. If you don't have PMs, I'll give you my email.
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Oct 5, 2015 15:35
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bandman posted:I'm in Fayetteville, so if you need a hand one evening or on the weekend, PM me. If you don't have PMs, I'll give you my email. Thanks man I appreciate the offer!
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Oct 6, 2015 01:24
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So far I've replaced all the spark plugs and wires. The ones in the engine were 5 champions and 1 autolite.... Wires were not securely connected and were easy to remove with minimal pulling. So far I haven't gotten it to crank since I replaced everything. Gotta double check my wiring and see whats up.
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Oct 6, 2015 02:19
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Take a look at this pic. To the right of the spring on the left is a wire that is ziptied in place and holding the choke partially open. Is that wire meant to be there or is it another example of PO fuckery? It's hard to make out, but yeah my guess would be that some hillbilly monkeyfucked that to keep the choke open. The automatic choke on these is sometimes a pain, so you could also switch to a manual choke or research electric choke conversions.
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Oct 6, 2015 04:04
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Rawrl posted:It's hard to make out, but yeah my guess would be that some hillbilly monkeyfucked that to keep the choke open. The automatic choke on these is sometimes a pain, so you could also switch to a manual choke or research electric choke conversions. So if I take off that spring and the rod/wire holding the choke open it should work normal?
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Oct 7, 2015 00:05
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Senior Funkenstien posted:So if I take off that spring and the rod/wire holding the choke open it should work normal? Maybe not. They could have removed a vaccum advance. I mean it never hurts to try but that spring is basically set to keep it open a little to a decent amount all the time.
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Oct 7, 2015 01:35
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The best way to learn carbs is to take one apart, clean it, and stare at it's pieces for a long time. Eventually through a combination of carb cleaner fumes and multiple failed attempts to put it back together something happens to your brain and you understand how they work.
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Oct 7, 2015 06:33
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8ender posted:The best way to learn carbs is to take one apart, clean it, and stare at it's pieces for a long time. Eventually through a combination of carb cleaner fumes and multiple failed attempts to put it back together something happens to your brain and you understand how they work. copious amounts of cheap beer help too i recommend pbr or miller highlife
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Oct 7, 2015 07:25
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Enourmo posted:copious amounts of cheap beer help too
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Oct 7, 2015 14:44
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Take a look at this pic. To the right of the spring on the left is a wire that is ziptied in place and holding the choke partially open. Is that wire meant to be there or is it another example of PO fuckery? That spring is the throttle return spring (very important, probably should be replaced soon). I would probably keep that where it is. The spring connects to the housing for the automatic choke, but only for convenience, on the super six its in a different place. If you disconnect the choke arm (that bent up rod) you should be able to slide it in and out with only a bit of resistance. When the engine is cold, the rod should be the most extended, and when the throttle is pulled back the throttle cam will be allowed the move freely (the plate that has the little steps on it). Connected to the other side of the carb (driver side) there is a little vacuum pod connected to the throttle/choke cam that will pull the choke open a bit when the engine is under load. So what I am getting at is that you are looking at this the wrong way. That zip tie is not keeping the choke open, its keeping it closed. The car is idling rough because the choke is always almost closed, which the PO probably did so the car could start because because choke wasn't working on its own, and when the engine is cold is when the choke needs to do it's job. I would remove the zip tie and get the choke working correctly. http://www.carbsonly.com/ has an electric choke conversion for the Slant 6 and holley 1920. That big capped off nipple is the fuel fume return line that would go to a charcoal canister on later models. That 1920 is probably not the original and is a re-manufactured unit that supports later years. PS - I bought a 1973 duster with slant 6 and a 1920 about 3 months ago, and the choke is what I had to deal with first.
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Oct 7, 2015 17:37
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LordJarvis posted:That spring is the throttle return spring (very important, probably should be replaced soon). I would probably keep that where it is. The spring connects to the housing for the automatic choke, but only for convenience, on the super six its in a different place. If you disconnect the choke arm (that bent up rod) you should be able to slide it in and out with only a bit of resistance. When the engine is cold, the rod should be the most extended, and when the throttle is pulled back the throttle cam will be allowed the move freely (the plate that has the little steps on it). Connected to the other side of the carb (driver side) there is a little vacuum pod connected to the throttle/choke cam that will pull the choke open a bit when the engine is under load. So what I am getting at is that you are looking at this the wrong way. That zip tie is not keeping the choke open, its keeping it closed. The car is idling rough because the choke is always almost closed, which the PO probably did so the car could start because because choke wasn't working on its own, and when the engine is cold is when the choke needs to do it's job. I would remove the zip tie and get the choke working correctly. http://www.carbsonly.com/ has an electric choke conversion for the Slant 6 and holley 1920. Thats a lot of great info! Thanks! I kinda figured that capped off line was for fuel fumes from what I read on some other forums. Interesting thing is this engine is about 10 years newer than the rest of the car. According to the VIN this car has a 318 in it originally.
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Oct 8, 2015 00:03
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| # ? Apr 24, 2024 12:54 |
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Alright guys a couple issues I'm running into. I got my sparkplugs and wires changed and the starter ran but it didn't fire. Come to find I broke the negative cable that connects to the ballast/capacitor that feeds power to the distributor. I have fixed that issue but now the starter doesn't turn over at all. So far I've fully charged the battery, Stripped the positive side of the battery cable and reconnected it to the terminal end cause it was looking frayed and dirty. Any ideas?
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Oct 9, 2015 13:35
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