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Starter relay clicking?
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Oct 9, 2015 14:48
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jhcain posted:Starter relay clicking? It sounds like it yeah. Just a click and nothing else. Only thing I can think of that I did that might affect it would be when I removed the battery.
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Oct 9, 2015 16:15
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Have you tried giving it a whack with a hammer and seeing if it works then? Maybe the solenoid contacts are worn and just chose this time to let you know.
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Oct 9, 2015 17:22
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Check the two grounding cables coming off the battery, one is smaller and attaches to the chassis, the other is bigger and connects to the block. Make sure the one going to block has a nice contact. Though it is not necessary the root of your problems, if the negative cable looks nasty, I would replace it, you have a 40 year old car, and contact resistance can add some weird problems. I plan on replacing mine in the next few weeks. Here is a schematic I have been living with: http://i.imgur.com/aGl2WCV.jpg <- table breaker methinks. It should be pretty accurate. Check your ammeter with the key on, if you turn on your lights and it moves you probably have good contact at the positive terminal of the battery. You'll notice that the starter has its own separate path to the battery cable, so start tracing that with a DMM. Another quick check would be just to try to jump the car, if it starts or cranks, that means some of the problems is with the battery or battery contacts
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Oct 9, 2015 17:26
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LordJarvis posted:Check the two grounding cables coming off the battery, one is smaller and attaches to the chassis, the other is bigger and connects to the block. Make sure the one going to block has a nice contact. Though it is not necessary the root of your problems, if the negative cable looks nasty, I would replace it, you have a 40 year old car, and contact resistance can add some weird problems. I plan on replacing mine in the next few weeks. With the battery connected and the terminals and posts cleaned it's still just one click and nothing. With a Jumper pack connected its a rapid fire clicking but no turning over. I'll give removing the negative cables and cleaning the ends a try. Edit: Went out and got some battery cables. I'll clean the block and body where the neg sits and try it all again. Edit2: It's amazing how things work again when they are cleaned up. It turns over now but still no start. Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Oct 9, 2015 |
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Oct 9, 2015 20:22
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Bigger update coming tomorrow hopefully with more pictures and more of an idea of the mess I'm dealing with with this car.
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Oct 10, 2015 00:48
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Sorry for the slow updates. I've been fighting a no start issue since I did the sparkplugs and wires. Hunting down electrical issues is terribly boring. Here's some better pics of the car and hopefully I'll have it running again this weekend so I can continue my updates as I do other things to it. Engine bay. I've replaced the battery, Coil, Dissy Cap, Carb and am currently going through cleaning up electrical connections.    
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Oct 29, 2015 14:13
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Mmmmmf, that looks awesome. Please continue updates, I'm so close.
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Oct 29, 2015 15:40
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Sorry for the slow updates. I've been fighting a no start issue since I did the sparkplugs and wires. Hunting down electrical issues is terribly boring. Here's some better pics of the car and hopefully I'll have it running again this weekend so I can continue my updates as I do other things to it. Hell yeah. I was just wondering how this was going the other day. Don't forget to check your grounds. Battery->block, block->chassis, chassis->body.
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Oct 29, 2015 18:43
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Hell yeah. I was just wondering how this was going the other day. Don't forget to check your grounds. Battery->block, block->chassis, chassis->body. Yeah thats what I'm hunting down now. I'm not getting a spark so I'm going through and cleaning up all the grounds, cleaning the terminal block on the firewall and the harness connectors. It's a big pain in the rear end.
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Oct 29, 2015 19:15
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How do your points look? Is the coil getting voltage when the ignition is in run AND start? How is the ground on the coil body? Sometimes those are very iffy, and if you just replaced it some nice paint could be providing some unwanted insulation. Do you have a new primary lead / have you checked to make sure the contacts actually contact and the cable has continuity?
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Oct 29, 2015 23:41
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Commodore_64 posted:How do your points look? Is the coil getting voltage when the ignition is in run AND start? How is the ground on the coil body? Sometimes those are very iffy, and if you just replaced it some nice paint could be providing some unwanted insulation. Do you have a new primary lead / have you checked to make sure the contacts actually contact and the cable has continuity? It's an electronic ignition so no points. Coil is getting ~4V when its in run. Haven't checked in start yet. The coil body does have paint on it although some got scraped off by the bracket when pushing the new one back into place, it should be well grounded but I'll double check. Tried the new and old leads from the coil to dis and I know they are making contact with the connectors on both ends.
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Oct 30, 2015 23:13
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Lots of Pertronix units will not operate below x.y volts, 6.8 or something. Check the instructions for your unit, you may have to bypass or change the resistance wire based on what ignition model you have and what the primary resistance of your coil is. If it's not getting enough voltage, it just shuts off, no spark no nuthin. Also some will not fire below x RPM, but that is pretty specific.
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Oct 31, 2015 00:46
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Commodore_64 posted:Lots of Pertronix units will not operate below x.y volts, 6.8 or something. Check the instructions for your unit, you may have to bypass or change the resistance wire based on what ignition model you have and what the primary resistance of your coil is. If it's not getting enough voltage, it just shuts off, no spark no nuthin. Also some will not fire below x RPM, but that is pretty specific. Just checked the voltage at the positive and negative terminals of the coil. I got maybe 1V in run and about the same in start. So it's changed since the first time I checked.
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Oct 31, 2015 00:51
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You mentioned your motor was a newer one, did they have an OEM electronic ignition by that time? Anyway, make sure that the spark module is also getting appropriate power. As far as I know they only cause the coil to discharge by temporarily grounding, so you should be seeing whatever start/run voltage across the coil unless it is constantly grounding it due to a fried output in the controller. Edit: This page seems pertinent, I guess by model year 73 everything used oem electronic setups. Neat! http://www.fourforty.com/techstuff/ignition.html Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 01:29 on Oct 31, 2015 |
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Oct 31, 2015 01:21
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Commodore_64 posted:You mentioned your motor was a newer one, did they have an OEM electronic ignition by that time? Anyway, make sure that the spark module is also getting appropriate power. As far as I know they only cause the coil to discharge by temporarily grounding, so you should be seeing whatever start/run voltage across the coil unless it is constantly grounding it due to a fried output in the controller. Yeah my engine seems to be from 79/80 by the head stamp. The ballast seemed fine when I last checked it but it could have failed in all my trying to start the engine.
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Oct 31, 2015 01:36
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Yeah my engine seems to be from 79/80 by the head stamp. The ballast seemed fine when I last checked it but it could have failed in all my trying to start the engine. The ballast resistor is (on older stuff) bypassed when the key is turned to "start". I'd start looking at wiring, fuses, dirty connectors, maybe the ignition switch. Follow the hot wire for the coil until you get a reasonable voltage.
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Oct 31, 2015 05:25
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Do you have points to throw back in it? I can't tell you the woes of trying to get stuff to start and it turns out just putting points back in solves everything. No I don't know why. I could never get my old 71 LTD to run with a pertronix would start if I even looked at the key sideways with the points
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Nov 4, 2015 04:18
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everdave posted:Do you have points to throw back in it? I can't tell you the woes of trying to get stuff to start and it turns out just putting points back in solves everything. No I don't know why. I could never get my old 71 LTD to run with a pertronix would start if I even looked at the key sideways with the points I don't. It came with the electronic when I got it. Basically what I'm doing at this point is waiting for parts to come in and then I am fairly certain it will start and run. I'll do an update when all my goodies come in.
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Nov 4, 2015 23:31
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A special thanks to Panaflex! An awesome gift from a stand up guy! 
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Nov 15, 2015 03:39
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Holy gently caress that is one radical manual!
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Nov 15, 2015 18:48
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Senior Funkenstien posted:A special thanks to Panaflex! That dude's gettin' laid. Pretty cool find.
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Nov 15, 2015 20:37
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Haha, the art on that manual rules!
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Nov 16, 2015 00:40
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I actually saw this car on ATL CL. You need to buy a motorhome and cut the 440 out, then blow up a transmission.
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Nov 16, 2015 07:20
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I have it on good authority that New Yorkers have 440s without the RV cam.
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Nov 16, 2015 15:41
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Alright so here's where I stand at the moment. I bought a new engine and forward light harness from Year One. Come to find out after I ordered that its 12 weeks backorder. So I found another guy that makes harnesses and bought one from him instead. Here's what I have. Old on the Left and New on the right.  From all the diagrams I have looked at the one on the right is correct. So wtf is going on with the old one?
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Nov 18, 2015 01:54
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Maybe a different option kit on the car or supplier
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Nov 18, 2015 05:20
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As tempting as it is to say ~mopar quality~ I second option kit. AC, cruise control, small block vs big block vs slant six, something else?
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Nov 18, 2015 06:34
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Or maybe a mid model-year change? Either way, it looks like you'd only have to move 1 connector. Those spade terminals are usually stupid easy to remove from a plug, just move that one terminal over to the right and it should snap into place. If you can't find a matching wire for the other terminal, just remove it from the plug. Did you order based on the body year, or engine year? It's possible whoever swapped the engine either reused the original harness, or used the newer one from the replacement engine.
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Nov 18, 2015 13:23
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Super jelly that you can get this kind of kickass V8 ride for 3 grand, great stuff!
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Nov 18, 2015 15:48
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Which harness is that? It looks like there are a bunch of connectors like that which all go to a fatty bulkhead passthrough. What does the mating plug look like? Hopefully you can still make out the colors on the wires entering the mating plug and swap as necessary.
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Nov 18, 2015 16:24
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Awesome! Now I know what the cool red car that parks near me is! If you need any undercarriage parts just holler and I'll slide under there some night 
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Nov 18, 2015 20:33
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mobby_6kl posted:Super jelly that you can get this kind of kickass V8 ride for 3 grand, great stuff! I think this is a slant six instead of V8.
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Nov 18, 2015 20:36
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Skier posted:As tempting as it is to say ~mopar quality~ I second option kit. AC, cruise control, small block vs big block vs slant six, something else? The original engine in this car was a 318 and it does have AC so that could be. I think what I'm gonna have to do is check the bulkhead and make sure the dash side of things are there and in the right order to fit.
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Nov 19, 2015 01:37
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Senior Funkenstien posted:The original engine in this car was a 318 and it does have AC so that could be. I think what I'm gonna have to do is check the bulkhead and make sure the dash side of things are there and in the right order to fit. A small block to slant six swap sounds off. Did you do a vin decode or check the build sheet to see what came with it from the factory? I don't see the telltale 318 badging on the earlier photos. AFAIK the only way to go from a small block to /6 is to get a slant six k member and swap that in, along with the smaller motor. Do you know what size of rearend it has? 8 3/4" or the smaller 8 or whatever the 7" one is? http://www.moparts.org/Tech/tech/pages/big-block-dart.html has more info re: /6 vs smallblock.
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Nov 19, 2015 07:26
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Skier posted:A small block to slant six swap sounds off. Did you do a vin decode or check the build sheet to see what came with it from the factory? I don't see the telltale 318 badging on the earlier photos. Yeah, this is kinda weird. Senior Funk, what's the 5th digit of the VIN?
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Nov 19, 2015 14:59
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Senior Funkenstien posted:A special thanks to Panaflex! Plymouth Duster: Yes, Sex is on the table
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Nov 19, 2015 16:32
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Yeah, this is kinda weird. Senior Funk, what's the 5th digit of the VIN? VIN number is VL29G0B333919 From the decoder I looked at the G is for a 318 "LA" 8 cylinder engine.
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Nov 19, 2015 23:49
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Yeah, as long as it's a G and not a C, that was a 318 car. Weird. In other news, that car was made about 40 miles away from my Nova 
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Nov 19, 2015 23:57
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Yeah, as long as it's a G and not a C, that was a 318 car. Weird. It was made 37 miles from my lincoln. which was made 37 miles from your nova. Together we form the malaise triangle.
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Nov 20, 2015 00:26
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