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Seat Safety Switch posted:Try dipping it in gasoline and see if that cleans it. And if gasoline doesn't even touch it... seems like something I wouldn't worry about. Worst case there's always those gas tank coating kits.
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May 16, 2017 22:25
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If you're worried about baffling, you could pick up something like that Holley(?) hydramat. That poo poo is amazing. We're living in the future. Thanks for the ideas guys. I guess I'll see how gasoline does and then just pop the new pump in and just keep an eye on the pickup screen.
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May 16, 2017 22:45
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Got the LS2 intake manifold and accessories installed. I bought most of these parts 3-4 years ago for the Bricklin, so I'm glad I was able to find all the bolts and that everything fits.  Also, anyone want to buy a running 1uzfe and transmission? Comes with ECU, wiring harness, and igniter as well.  I'm probably going to throw it on Craigslist asking $500 to see if I can get any bites. Intake manifold and accessories video if anyone's interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a2h8XjGlFDU
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Jun 1, 2017 00:57
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Huge update with lots of pics and words incoming: (video links posted at the bottom of the post if you care to watch me sweat on things while wrenching) I ended up selling the 1uz for $500, which let me buy some crucial oiling parts for the car. I still need to pick up an oil cooler and filter relocation kit. Installed the fuel system and wiring on the LS. Fuel pics: Injectors, rail, and line installed at the engine:  I stuffed the line behind the factory heat shield in an attempt to keep it from getting too hot from the headers:  Ran the 3/8" line down the length of the car:  The line goes to the top left of the C5 Corvette FPR/filter behind the subframe there, then to the feed and return lines from the tank.  For the fittings to the tank, I just unscrewed the stock lines and installed AN fittings right into the tank.  New AEM pump next to the 25 year old stock one:  New pump installed:  Wiring pics: The starter:  All wired up!    Originally I bolted the PCM to the transmission tunnel, but then changed my mind and mounted it where the stock one was with some vibration isolators I ordered from Amazon.   All wired, with the new fuse box attached to the side where the kick panel used to be.  Makes for a pretty clean install:  I also picked up an oil pan baffle from Improved Racing because I read horror stories about the LS engine oil starvation issues. I had to pull the engine halfway out again which was a pain in the rear end, but I had to get under there anyway to finish up my engine and transmission mounts. New baffle vs. the reason the LS has oil starvation issues. What even is the purpose of that thing?    I also installed the F-Body windage tray. I'll add a crank scraper later on when I have the money and will be tearing into the block to prep it for forced induction. I took the opportunity to look up the engine's skirt and found a nearly factory fresh engine, so that's good to see. It only has 40k miles, so that makes sense.   I was doing research and realized after buying the clutch master cylinder that I did, that the T56 slave cylinder requires a 3/4" bore. The one I have is the same as the SC/Soarer/Supra, at 5/8". So after more research, I found that the 86-87 Land Cruiser used a 3/4" bore CMC and that the bolt pattern is the same as the SC. The best part is it cost $24 shipped compared to the CMCs from aftermarket companies that are like $125-$150. I just had to chop down the push rod a bit to let the clutch pedal sit at the correct height. Celica CMC on top, Land Cruiser on bottom.  I also just got the factory 5 speed SC brake pedal in the mail. That'll be going in this weekend. That's it for now. Videos: Fuel system part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9fKxPgG4BE Fuel system part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPVKIHsQ2nI Wiring part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGj0-TOIyG8 Wiring part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHkFeb9geRY BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Aug 3, 2017 |
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Aug 3, 2017 20:18
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BoostCreep posted:New baffle vs. the reason the LS has oil starvation issues. What even is the purpose of that thing? Something something Camaros don't turn. Very nice solution on that clutch master cylinder.
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Aug 3, 2017 20:22
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You ever sell that 1uz? I'm looking to put one in my Miata.
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Aug 3, 2017 20:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:Something something Camaros don't turn. Apparently they only brake with the only vertical part of the "baffle" on the front. And thanks, I was pretty proud of that one. Voltage posted:You ever sell that 1uz? I'm looking to put one in my Miata. Yep, sold it for $500 with the transmission, harness, ECU, ignitor, etc. The guy also took half the junk I pulled out of the engine bay like the ABS unit which I was just going to throw away anyway. It'll be going into a Cressida.
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Aug 3, 2017 21:08
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BoostCreep posted:Yep, sold it for $500 with the transmission, harness, ECU, ignitor, etc. The guy also took half the junk I pulled out of the engine bay like the ABS unit which I was just going to throw away anyway. It'll be going into a Cressida. A car worthy of it. Noice.
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Aug 4, 2017 14:30
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Great work on the car as always. I always enjoy your Youtube videos when they appear. Good to see this swap on your silly mirrored Soarer.
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Aug 4, 2017 22:20
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I did a poo poo job of documenting this process with pictures, but I got the radiator and fans installed in the Lexus. I went with a CXRacing radiator for the MK4 Supra since it was $150 shipped and supposedly bolted into the SC chassis. It doesn't. Probably not the best quality, but it's all aluminum and an inch thicker than stock. Most importantly though, it has a built in radiator cap unlike the stock radiator. If it springs a leak in a year I can replace it easily enough at $150. It's best to watch the episode since I took so few pics of this process. Episode here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bG_JC5kFp9U Fans are from a Lexus GS300. $90 shipped for 3300 CFM OEM fans with Lexus reliability. They also fit exactly to the Supra radiator core and it comes with a built in coolant overflow bottle. Super convenient — the factory overflow lines even mount right up.  To get hoses that fit, I bent up some coat hangers to get the right angles and went shopping. Not too bad.  Installed. I had to do some modifications because the Supra rad happens to be an inch shorter than the stock one and the top mounts didn't fit anymore. I'm probably going to just weld some 1" tall risers on the chassis where the radiator sits to make things easier. I'm going to also fabricate a cooling plate to go between the radiator and the support to help with airflow.  I also installed SS braided brake lines. No pics of that, but the episode is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFVgrkfL8X4 I have an oil cooler ready to install, but I need to figure out my filter relocation kit and line routing. I want to install an oil thermostat and came across this highly reviewed unit from GReddy:  It comes with -10AN fittings, a 1/8" NPT fitting for a gauge sending unit, and doubles as an oil filter relocation mount and a thermostat all for $142 which is a pretty good deal. The only thing I'm worried about is whether the oil filter is big enough for the LS engine. It uses either a Greddy oil filter or filters designed for the 4AGE from the AE86, which makes me think it might be too small. People do use this kit for high horsepower 2JZGTE and RB26DETT twin turbo builds though, so I'm hoping it'll be ok for a V8. Plus I've grown up coveting GReddy/TRUST parts and always wanted one. The filters for the LS1 and the AE86 seem to be relatively close in size, so I'm thinking of just buying it and hoping for the best.
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Oct 13, 2017 08:05
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You could use a taller filter with the same thread / gasket diameter. With that said, a cross reference for the 4AGE filter seems to match up with the ACDelco PF53, and at least this thread has quite a few larger compatible options. Also, the stock Camaro filter is pretty dinky.
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Oct 13, 2017 20:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:You could use a taller filter with the same thread / gasket diameter. With that said, a cross reference for the 4AGE filter seems to match up with the ACDelco PF53, and at least this thread has quite a few larger compatible options. Great find, thank you! I was thinking about getting a longer filter to add more capacity and filter material. I'll probably mount the GReddy unit to the frame rail next to the radiator or possibly to the engine block. Either way there should be plenty of space for a longer filter. Just need to figure out my hose and AN fitting routing. I'll probably pick up a spin on oil filter bypass for the stock filter location for like $20 and some ebay special SS braided lines. I like that the GReddy unit simplifies the whole system, removes extra fitting connections, and saves money by not having to buy extra fittings and hose. So my routing should be: Engine -> Oil filter bypass -> GReddy unit -> oil cooler -> GReddy unit -> oil filter bypass -> engine Instead of: Engine -> Oil filter bypass -> remote oil filter -> thermostat -> oil cooler -> thermostat -> remote oil filter -> oil filter bypass -> engine
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Oct 13, 2017 20:51
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This talk of Oil filter cross reference reminds me of this website. It may come in Handy for you. It has for me. E: Put the loving link in there idiot. http://www.oilfilter-crossreference.com/
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Oct 15, 2017 03:51
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wesleywillis posted:This talk of Oil filter cross reference reminds me of this website. That's a great resource, thank you!
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Oct 16, 2017 21:06
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The GReddy unit came in today. This is with a stock LS oil filter sitting on it and it's the exact same diameter. Really happy to see that. Now I just need to find the tallest filter in 3/4-16 thread size I can find. The quality of this is awesome. Really happy with the purchase and it'll make the plumbing to the cooler so much simpler.
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Oct 17, 2017 21:44
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A common ford 51516 wix filter would be the closest I can think of off the top of my head, but its flow rate is a little lower than the stock ls1 filter.
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Oct 18, 2017 00:22
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I fully admit I've never compared flow rates or anything when filter swapping, I just run the biggest one that fits 
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Oct 18, 2017 00:55
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Given its going in a drift car thats going to spend extended times at high rpm and thusly oil pressure, I figured it was worth mentioning. A 57060 filter is the stock ls1 filter and has a flow rate of 10-12 gpm, that 51516 filter is found on a ton of fords and jeeps and has a flow rate of 7-9 gpm. It may be enough to be concerned with. 
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Oct 18, 2017 03:44
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Given its going in a drift car thats going to spend extended times at high rpm and thusly oil pressure, I figured it was worth mentioning. That's interesting and good to know. I hadn't looked up filter flow rates either. I found this Wix Racing filter, which flows 28 gpm, is larger than the stock LS filter by quite a bit, and fits the 3/4-16 thread. It's part number is 51515R, which seems to be their racing version of the 51516 filter. http://amzn.to/2hOpyPC It also has the same measured ID and OD of the PF48 gasket which I know fits the GReddy unit, so I think it should work. I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the advice.
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Oct 18, 2017 19:59
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Nah, the 51515R is a racing version of the 51515 which is commonly found on 60's-early 90s ford junk. The 51516 is the smaller version of that filter found on other 80s and 90s ford junk and has a slightly different gasket id/od. Still worth a shot. Still confused why a greddy part would have 3/4-16 thread instead of metric, but whatever. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 20:17 on Oct 18, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 20:12
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Nah, the 51515R is a racing version of the 51515 which is commonly found on 60's-early 90s ford junk. The 51516 is the smaller version of that filter found on other 80s and 90s ford junk and has a slightly different gasket id/od. Still worth a shot. Ahh, great info. The oil filters for the pre 07 LS oil pan has a 13/16-16 thread and the 07+ has 22x1.5mm. I don't think there's any rhyme or reason. BoostCreep fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Nov 1, 2017 |
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Oct 18, 2017 20:44
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Are you not using the WIX filter look-up tool? http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/InterchangeMultiSearch.aspx?q=fl1a%7Cpf48&o=me If you dig around enough, you can find big filters. http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=2011345
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Oct 21, 2017 15:10
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Was gonna say, 51515 is a common filter that Jeep guys love to use. I've always just used s16 stp filters and had no issues, but 51515 is the one everyone with strong feelings about engine oiling seems to go with.
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Oct 26, 2017 15:27
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kastein posted:Was gonna say, 51515 is a common filter that Jeep guys love to use. I've always just used s16 stp filters and had no issues, but 51515 is the one everyone with strong feelings about engine oiling seems to go with. Oh hey, look, its the PH8A! Yeah, huge high flow filter that also has an anti-drainback valve. You'll be just fine. Use it all the time on various cars, if it fits. Holds like a full quart of oil, too, so ACVW guys use it to increase the engine oil capacity by like 50%
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Oct 26, 2017 16:28
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Filter came in. It's a big 'un. Seriously massive. I don't think I'll have to worry about finding a bigger filter for this.  It fits the GReddy unit perfectly and the threads are a match.  Now I just need to find a place in the engine bay where it'll fit.
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Oct 28, 2017 09:09
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I finally got the oil system put together. This should hopefully work well until I start prepping the engine for more power down the road. 11" core, 30 row stacked plate design. Mounted with 2" angle aluminum from Home Depot.  Remote mount and filter mounted. This seemed to be the best place to mount the filter to keep the hoses as short as possible and have it out of the way, and there's plenty of room for the hoses and the oil pressure/temp sensors when I get them installed. Having an integrated thermostat is helping a lot by simplifying the system and removing extra hoses and fittings. I also left a little gap at the bottom of the filter to fit a teenie tiny oil pan for oil changes.    Below is the Trans-dapt spin-on oil filter adapter installed. I had to cut a bit more metal off the rear crossmember since the fittings just barely touched the top of it. It fits well now and hopefully won't leak. I had to use NPT fittings instead of AN since apparently nobody keeps AN spin-on adapters in stock for this engine.  The oil hoses have plenty of room with the headers in place. I need to fix the surface rust on those headers, paint them, and get them installed soon. They currently hit the top of my motor mount, so I'm probably going to be chopping off the rear most corner of the motor mount plate that bolts to the engine so it fits. The joys of custom fabbing everything. (and being a total amateur at doing so)  Here's the latest YouTube vid on this whole process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qam7NCxruxc Up next will be redesigning the radiator mount and then wiring the switch panel. I'll probably end up getting the standard 51515 WIX filter instead of the Racing one since I learned the racing filter only traps particles 61 microns big as opposed to the 17-19 micron of the non-racing filter. Less flow, but better for engine longevity seems to make sense.
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Nov 16, 2017 04:37
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I wish the WJ had anywhere near that much room to stack up coolers.
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Nov 16, 2017 04:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:I wish the WJ had anywhere near that much room to stack up coolers. There wasn't that much room before I stripped everything out of it. I'm sure if you were making a stripped down offroad WJ you'd find plenty of room.
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Nov 16, 2017 07:48
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How easy is it to remove that adapter/bracket from the fender? I can't see how you could do an oil change with it in place without making a ridiculous mess.
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Nov 16, 2017 07:52
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Raluek posted:How easy is it to remove that adapter/bracket from the fender? I can't see how you could do an oil change with it in place without making a ridiculous mess. There's actually about a half inch gap under the filter that you can't see from that angle. I can fit a tiny oil pan or a rag underneath the filter when I do changes.
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Nov 16, 2017 08:11
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Raluek posted:How easy is it to remove that adapter/bracket from the fender? I can't see how you could do an oil change with it in place without making a ridiculous mess. You just need to jack the back of the car up about 15 feet.
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Nov 16, 2017 10:08
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I dunno, I don't see a pan that fits under there holding enough oil to not overflow when you unscrew the filter, unless you mean a sort of tray or flat funnel that just directs the oil into the actual drain pan.
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Nov 17, 2017 19:40
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kastein posted:I dunno, I don't see a pan that fits under there holding enough oil to not overflow when you unscrew the filter, unless you mean a sort of tray or flat funnel that just directs the oil into the actual drain pan. The filter has an anti drain valve built into it and I don't plan on turning it upside down. I can't recall ever losing so much oil when pulling the filter that it would overflow, but if it causes an issue I will address it.
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Nov 18, 2017 02:24
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I'm in the planning stages of wiring my switch panel into the car and making the proper connections everywhere. The first step is deciding how to install the battery master cutoff switch and I'm running into some walls doing research. My first instinct is to install a 6 post kill cutoff switch like this from Pegasus:  Which would be wired like this:  And that is to add protection to the alternator and ignition from surges when the power is cut. This all makes perfect sense, but that would mean that I'd have all the high voltage from the battery running extremely close to me if I want to mount this switch on the dash where I would want to be able to reach it. I'd love to be able to make the kill switch work through a relay to keep all that electricity out of the cabin, but I'm struggling to find a relay or solenoid that would work. Every remote kill solenoid I've come across doesn't have alternator protection built into it. Am I overthinking this? Should I just run battery cables to the switch panel on the dash?
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Nov 30, 2017 22:02
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High current, not high voltage. Not really an answer to your questions, but on the topic of battery shutoffs and safety - if you are mounting a battery not right next to the fusebox, please consider adding a fuse or fusible link nearby, in case the battery positive wire ever shorts to ground while travelling through the car. I would run the battery wires to your panel. Hell, I'd install a small battery in the passenger footwell and have it all there, surely you don't need a big heavy battery in the trunk for this car.
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Dec 1, 2017 04:37
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Yes, current, thank you. I know next to nothing about electronics and wiring, which is why I've been researching and learning as much as I can about it before digging into this part of the build. I was thinking of placing the battery on the floor behind the passenger seat instead of in the trunk. I might eventually have a passenger in the car and figured it'd be a bad place for a battery, but I could potentially mount a small one up there somewhere. I was planning on using a 200 amp circuit breaker instead of a fuse. The LS1 guys seem to like the Odyssey PC680 battery which would save a bunch of weight and fit in a smaller area. It's a tiny little sealed AGM battery, but apparently it has no problem cranking fully dressed 5.7 and 6.0 LS engines. I guess if I mount the battery there I could just run the cables to the kill switch at the switch panel and call it good. Thanks!
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Dec 1, 2017 06:18
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BoostCreep posted:And that is to add protection to the alternator and ignition from surges when the power is cut. Out of curiosity, how does that alternator protection thing work here? I've seen kill switches where it just had the alternator field winding go through the switch (and disconnected or shorted it, not sure which one), but this one is obviously something else. It pulls the starter solenoid to ground via a 3Ω resistor, but what does that do? BoostCreep posted:It's a tiny little sealed AGM battery, but apparently it has no problem cranking fully dressed 5.7 and 6.0 LS engines. It will probably be just fine for track use. Problems with those batteries come when it's cold outside (harder to crank engine + less current from battery), or if you have an engine that doesn't start very reliably as you might just get what amounts to 3-4 starting attempts out of it before it will no longer crank fast enough. Also, since you're deep-cycling it more often and relative to it's size just pushing it harder, it will usually wear out a lot quicker than a normal-size battery. If you're working on the engine and need to start&stop it often, you might want to hook up a bigger battery just for those occasions. Also if you want to spend more money and save a little bit more weight, you can get a lithium battery.
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Dec 1, 2017 08:52
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ionn posted:Out of curiosity, how does that alternator protection thing work here? I've seen kill switches where it just had the alternator field winding go through the switch (and disconnected or shorted it, not sure which one), but this one is obviously something else. It pulls the starter solenoid to ground via a 3Ω resistor, but what does that do? From what I've read, the resistor bleeds off any pulse from the alternator to ground. Electrical stuff is not my field of expertise, so I'm going by what I've been reading online. From Pegasus: This switch has three sets of contacts for cars with alternators. The main contacts disconnect the battery while the auxiliary contacts disconnect the ignition coil and short the alternator output to ground. A 3 ohm resistor (included) provides a load to protect the grounded alternator. These 1/4" spade terminals connect only when the switch is turned off, to provide the alternator output with a safe, loaded path to ground. ionn posted:It will probably be just fine for track use. Problems with those batteries come when it's cold outside (harder to crank engine + less current from battery), or if you have an engine that doesn't start very reliably as you might just get what amounts to 3-4 starting attempts out of it before it will no longer crank fast enough. Also, since you're deep-cycling it more often and relative to it's size just pushing it harder, it will usually wear out a lot quicker than a normal-size battery. If you're working on the engine and need to start&stop it often, you might want to hook up a bigger battery just for those occasions. The nice thing about that battery is it's a third the size and weight of a normal car battery for around the same price. It's a pretty popular battery for LS swaps, and people who have used this in LS equipped cars generally report it working for 2 years before needing to be replaced. That's not bad for $110. This car will never see cold temperatures being based in SoCal, and the battery would only be used for track days. I am however totally open to other battery options if they will last longer as long as I'm not buying a $300 racing battery.
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Dec 1, 2017 23:51
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BoostCreep posted:From Pegasus: That actually makes sense. Loading it will very effectively reduce the spikiness (this is what the battery normally does). Shorting to ground over a 3Ω resistor is a well above its 10W rating though (more like 50-60W depending on voltage), but those ceramic resistors do have a fair bit of thermal mass and should be fine for a couple seconds. And I guess stopping the engine using the kill switch isn't something you do more often than necessary. BoostCreep posted:It's a pretty popular battery for LS swaps, and people who have used this in LS equipped cars generally report it working for 2 years before needing to be replaced. That's not bad for $110. If it can last 2 years for something daily-driven and started a couple times a day, I guess it could last you years and years in a reasonably well-maintained track car. And even if it turns out it doesn't, it's pretty a pretty cheap consumable item all things considered. That said, it might be a good idea to bring a booster pack or something along to the track, if the battery starts going weak or you have some engine issues requiring more cranking. When I was wrenching on (and occasionally racing) a car with a tiny lithium battery and no functioning camshaft position sensor, we had a small handcart around with a full-size battery on it and a pair of permanently attached jumper cables. We also on occasion had races in April where temperature was just above freezing in the mornings..
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Dec 2, 2017 09:37
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BoostCreep posted:Odyssey PC680 Personally I've run the Deka ETX14 in a few track cars and my old DD e30 and never had issues. Only time I was worried it wouldn't start was a 25 degree morning but even then it cranked and fired. The older the car and the less extra crap you have drawing on the battery the better you'll be.
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Dec 2, 2017 12:03
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